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Automated ballast, control systems, Remote Control - Key Fob and relay board. TESTED concept works.

dan144k

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Other members have built high tech and functioning PLC and Bluetooth control systems for automated ballast control.

I am experimenting with another ballast control system route.
While researching for blue tooth relay boards on the internet.
I found some key-fob to relay board controllers ($300 range).
I then ran into this 12 channel remote with relay board on Amazon for $32.
I ordered one to experiment with.
I like the idea of not using my phone, just have a dedicated remote to control things.
Planning a 3 zone 6 pump system, 1-1/4" intake with 1200-gph aerator pumps.
Pump system will only need 6 relays and I will have 6 extra.
Can print label on back to identify which number does what.
Looks like it has 20-amp relays on the board.
Pumps only draw 3-5 amps so I would just wire directly to relay board.
Also thinking of putting some LED indicators somewhere to tell me when and if pump is on.
If it works, simple, functional, and easy wiring.



 

KXCam22

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I like to see different ideas like this, especially low cost ones. Keep us posted on how you make out. Keep in mind that the pump motors have a high momentary inrush current up to 10X the running current, but only for a very short duration. Just have to read the specs on the relay board contacts to see it it can handle this short high current spike. The pump literature should also have a value for the inrush. Good luck. Cam.
 

jcyamaharider

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@dan144k what ball valves are you plan in using now? Electric close / electric open, or spring open/close for one way? I have been looking and found 1"npt electric both ways reasonable. That setup looks cool and should be really simple to plumb up and install.
 

dan144k

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@jcyamaharider
I was not planning on using any ball valves for the ballast bags, just pumps, 1 fill pump / 1 empty pump per bag.

If I can find cheap and waterproof (bilge safe), I have thought about a 1-1/4" motorized ball valve (spring closed) at my thru-hull fitting.
Then wire the ball valve to one of the relays on control, and enable the main valve first and then run the pumps to fill.

@KXCam22
I looked and the pumps specs were 3 amp run and 5 amp fuse. I will check and test with amp probe to be sure.
 

jcyamaharider

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My tsunami pump will siphon out my ballast bag if not disconnected right away, how will you stop that?
 

dan144k

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Gonna use 3) inline check valves, 1 check valve after each pump, most likely.
I think installing a high loop with vacuum break will also stop the gravity draining.
 

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Awesome!!! I hope you don't think I am anti this idea, just trying to help brainstorm possible failure points. I am really excited to see how this turns out! Should be an awesome easy system.
 
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dan144k

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I appreciate all the help.
Still figuring out the piping design.
I Have given a lot of thought to check valves, vs high loop.
- check valves (less money) allow very simple install, but will hold water above check valve, maybe can add a drain tap
- high loop with vacuum (more money) is more piping but allows the pumps and rear piping to self drain

Biggest concern is getting 3) pumps under the waterbox.
If I am unable (doubtful) to place pumps low enough in the boat to self prime them, then I think installing a 1-1/4" check valve at the thru hull fitting would keep the pumps primed and someone could install the pumps at a higher location in the boat. Basically always keeping the pumps with water ready to go.

It is all simply ideas until installed and it works.
 

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You can most likely get away from the high loops by locating the drains at opposite sides of the boat. That way if the boat is leaned over the bag goes down but the level of the drain goes up (on other side of the boat) so it is impossible to siphon. If you drain your rear bags where I did then there is no issue and the hose run is short. 3A run and 5A fuse is pretty low. What is the contact rated at? For the cost you can always try it and if the contact fries do it again with a relay. I am assuming there will be some extra contacts you can use. Check valves reduce flow but sometimes you have to use them. I have one in each vent line to that the bag will shrivel up when draining and not draw in air. Can't remember why that was important but for me it is not a flow line so makes no reduction in fill/drain times. Should be a good system. Cam.
 

dan144k

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Unit will work GREAT.:)
Ballast Control System using remote ready for install.
Exactly what I wanted it to do.
The Board is about size of my cell phone.

This can turn on and off anything you wire to it under 12vdc 20amps (rated)
example: you could control your underwater led lights, ball valves for ballast, inflator pump spot light, docking light, speaker zones, heated seat, and anything you would put on a switch.

Well I bench tested the relay board and remote in my kitchen. Hooked up 1 pump (in sink of water) and 2 led lights.
The unit came programmed for momentary operation, push and hold the button and relay stays on turning on led, but must hold button to keep relay ON.
No manual with device, but it is programmable.
Website I found with programming video was pyrouniverse.com :winkingthumbsup" link posted below. post #4
http://www.pyrouniverse.com/forum/showthread.php/49519-Wireless-Firing-System

I think people are using these to control and ignite fireworks shows, from the posts.
Good enough for fireworks then good enough for the boat

Basically (programming)
1. Push the program button for 5 seconds
2. Select your relay control method using remote
-On the remote
#6 12 relay latch
(example) (I think) button 1 turns ON and button 2 turns OFF (guessing) I tried it first but was did not operate the way I wanted.
#9 12 relay toggle
(what I want) push number and pump runs, till I push button and turn pump off.
#12 relay toggle 1-6 and relay momentary 7-12
#1,2,3,4,5,7,10,11 12 relay momentary

If anyone needs a wiring diagram I can make one and post it, currently just in my head
You will want to wire outputs to terminal A and B on board.

Picture example
LED on channel 5 or button 5
push #5 once and led turns ON
push #5 again and LED turns OFF

IMG_20150307_151032_597.jpg
 
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KXCam22

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Very Cool! I did a fair bit of testing in my backyard when I did mine. Cam.
 

woodard1983

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Nice!!! I wish I was savvy bough to do something like that!!! Can do the install, but creating something like that is a little beyond me
 

dan144k

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@woodard1983 It is a very simple system to build control/electrically aspect. All I did was buy the remote and relay board, pre-built and ready to wire. I did not create anything, just store bought items.

Just wire each component to a relay. If someone was using reversible pumps just use 2 relays to control the direction.
I am planning on using several push button reset fuses and build it all into a small waterproof control box.
I will add more pictures and wiring information as I go along in the next 3 months, boat in storage till May 6 hours away.
The hardest part will be installing the aerator pumps low in the hull below the waterbox.
 
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dan144k

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Another example of a similar device. Only rated for 5amps per channel.
I just bought a similar product on amazon for my kids atv's (polaris 50cc 2-stroke).
Gonna wire the relay to be a remote kill switch and hold the key fob in my hand (safety device for 3 year old).
These are nice because they have a led on the remote next to the button, so you visually see when on/off.
AGT 12V Waterproof Wireless Remote Control DC Universal 2-Channel Output LED/Lights $20.00

 

KXCam22

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Don't forget to include a master power on/off switch in your design. Nice to have plus electronics take some residual power which drains your boat battery. Ask me how I know. Cam.
 

0627Devildog

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Any progress since 2015? Sad to see this thread died.
 
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