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Wet Sounds WS-420BT - Needed/Worth it for Non-Tower Aftermarket Stereo

Benny Sibbitt

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Decided to build my own box

FA479026-1DAC-4574-BD9A-8D4B36A1DA52.jpeg
 

Cambo

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#Benny Sibbit I like the custom box are you mounting it under the dash ? One item I needed to figure out was the rca outputs for my set up and most boat systems, they seem to have a need for more line outs from the eq to the amps can you hook up an rca splitter? It looks like the jl all have preamp outputs that give you more flexibility.
 

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#Benny Sibbit I like the custom box are you mounting it under the dash ? One item I needed to figure out was the rca outputs for my set up and most boat systems, they seem to have a need for more line outs from the eq to the amps can you hook up an rca splitter? It looks like the jl all have preamp outputs that give you more flexibility.

Thanks, Yes I will be mounting under my dash

How many amps do you have and which one?
 

ralphsmithiii

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I just bought the WS420
Looking for a clean way to run wires from the WS420 to my amps in the helm storage area
How you guys running your wires into the amp area?
Any photos?
I'm hoping you'll report back regarding you're experience with it. I decided to pull the trigger on a DSP as well but before I talk about it, I need to install it and test it. It does looks promising and I'm crossing my fingers it'll do exactly what I expect it to.
 

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The Polk amps that came with the boat and possibly a Rockville 6 channel RXM-6S . Originally I picked up the Rockville because it had the PA feature I have had a pa in the past and it’s great for giving instruction to passengers trying out water sports. After doing a bench check the pa on the Rockville sounds much more clear compared to the wet sounds but the mic has a small potentiometer dial and is very sensitive and it seems more prone to feedback .
 

Benny Sibbitt

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The Polk amps that came with the boat and possibly a Rockville 6 channel RXM-6S . Originally I picked up the Rockville because it had the PA feature I have had a pa in the past and it’s great for giving instruction to passengers trying out water sports. After doing a bench check the pa on the Rockville sounds much more clear compared to the wet sounds but the mic has a small potentiometer dial and is very sensitive and it seems more prone to feedback .
With only 2 amps and the ws420 I wouldn't see why you would need Y splitters
the 420 only takes one input and the unit itself splits the signal for you so you can create zones on your boat

@ralphsmithiii I will let you after i install this week
 

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@ralphsmithiii

Have you been happy with the single 10” sub?

Trying to decide between 1 or 2-10” Jl M6s for our 215.

TY!
 

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ralphsmithiii

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@ralphsmithiii

Have you been happy with the single 10” sub?

Trying to decide between 1 or 2-10” Jl M6s for our 215.

TY!
@Need A Vacation

So far I've been very happy with the 1 10" IB sub. It produces more bass than I expected in an open air environment. I'm getting ready to add 8.8 towers which some have said if you did, you may not even consider a sub but I'd have to hear that to believe it. With that, I bought a amp that would not only support the 8.8's but also support another 10" IB sub which I may add. I'd like to add the other sub adjacent to where I have one now which I believe can only improve the overall quality of the bass and distribute it more evenly.

But, I'd recommend it hands down, however, I have no other experiences with any other setups on boats yet.
 

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@Need A Vacation

So far I've been very happy with the 1 10" IB sub. It produces more bass than I expected in an open air environment. I'm getting ready to add 8.8 towers which some have said if you did, you may not even consider a sub but I'd have to hear that to believe it. With that, I bought a amp that would not only support the 8.8's but also support another 10" IB sub which I may add. I'd like to add the other sub adjacent to where I have one now which I believe can only improve the overall quality of the bass and distribute it more evenly.

But, I'd recommend it hands down, however, I have no other experiences with any other setups on boats yet.
TY!!!

It would save us about $5-600 going with one sub I think it is, but just afraid of not being 100% happy.

What amp did you go with for the towers and possible second sub?
 

ralphsmithiii

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TY!!!

It would save us about $5-600 going with one sub I think it is, but just afraid of not being 100% happy.

What amp did you go with for the towers and possible second sub?
For the (6) MX650's in the cabin + the (1) 10" IB JL sub, I did a JL M800/8. 6 channels each for the 650's and two channels bridged for the sub.

For the incoming gear, I went with a MX600/6. 2 channels bridged each for each tower then the last 2 channels bridged for another sub. I'd never see myself going more than that as we don't wake board, or have the need to compete in SQL contests with other boaters, lol!

I also really didn't feel the need to purchase speakers with LEDs in them. I think it's a neat concept and if we went out or thought we'd go out more at night, them maybe sure. But I'd think I'd add in some customizable LED strips and build my own light display for the money.

The JL IB sub is pretty solid. Some people don't want to cut a hole in their boats and if that's not an option then your options are vastly wide open. You can pick a ton of subs and enclosure's to throw anywhere they may fit. Being that I live in Florida and boat in the salt waters, I wanted a tried and true setup that's designed to handle the abuse of boat the weather and the water. The sub really surprises me in terms of how responsive it is and how much bass it can produce. In fact, I had to put a piece of weather strip under the port side compartment because when it's cranked, it was was shaking the the lid so much it sounded like a rattling car trunk.
 

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Sounds like it is going to be a BA System!!!

Originally I was planning on 2- 6ch M series, with 2-10s. The dealer thinks the 7.7 towers would be overpowered running off 4 of the channels (bridged to two). He suggested 1-6ch, and the 600.1 mono for the 2-10s.

Tentative plan:

WS MC1 head unit.
2pr M6- 6.5”, replacing the stock bow & cockpit speakers.
7.7 towers.
2 M6 10ib???
M600.6 & M600.1

My better half thinks 1-10 is enough, so we’ll see what happens. Maybe we will stay with the same amp, and start with 1-10??? Hmmm, maybe that work.

We are probably going with the leds, mainly because they are on sale for a pretty good price. Otherwise we probably wouldn’t either.
 

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Sounds like it is going to be a BA System!!!

Originally I was planning on 2- 6ch M series, with 2-10s. The dealer thinks the 7.7 towers would be overpowered running off 4 of the channels (bridged to two). He suggested 1-6ch, and the 600.1 mono for the 2-10s.

Tentative plan:

WS MC1 head unit.
2pr M6- 6.5”, replacing the stock bow & cockpit speakers.
7.7 towers.
2 M6 10ib???
M600.6 & M600.1

My better half thinks 1-10 is enough, so we’ll see what happens. Maybe we will stay with the same amp, and start with 1-10??? Hmmm, maybe that work.

We are probably going with the leds, mainly because they are on sale for a pretty good price. Otherwise we probably wouldn’t either.
Throwing this out there, but, and this my thoughts solely based on what I've read on several forums, if you can swing it put in the bigger towers the first time around. Because you're going with the newest line of JL's (the M6's) and if you want the grills to match, then you'd be looking at the M6-880X. That may or may not change your amp selection, then you have to consider batteries, thicker power and ground wires etc. But, IF you're someone who may look or listen to something and think, "Man, I wish these where louder, or I wish these produced more mid-bass/bass" AND you'll find a way to swap them out later, then measure twice NOW and cut once. I almost pulled the trigger on 7.7's but found a great deal on the previous style M880's which match the rest of my JL's. It may be overkill (said no one ever), but at least I should hopefully never look back and say, "crap, I wish I would of bought the bigger towers...". Obviously there's a money factory but since I went with the previous gen towers, it was a substantial cost savings over the newer towers. BUT, you can have the LED's in your tower speakers with the current gen and that could look pretty epic with all of it lit up.
 

Benny Sibbitt

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I installed The WS420
I wished I would have bought this last year!
What a difference it makes
You can tune the music much easier and it sounds so much cleaner
 

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Throwing this out there, but, and this my thoughts solely based on what I've read on several forums, if you can swing it put in the bigger towers the first time around. Because you're going with the newest line of JL's (the M6's) and if you want the grills to match, then you'd be looking at the M6-880X. That may or may not change your amp selection, then you have to consider batteries, thicker power and ground wires etc. But, IF you're someone who may look or listen to something and think, "Man, I wish these where louder, or I wish these produced more mid-bass/bass" AND you'll find a way to swap them out later, then measure twice NOW and cut once. I almost pulled the trigger on 7.7's but found a great deal on the previous style M880's which match the rest of my JL's. It may be overkill (said no one ever), but at least I should hopefully never look back and say, "crap, I wish I would of bought the bigger towers...". Obviously there's a money factory but since I went with the previous gen towers, it was a substantial cost savings over the newer towers. BUT, you can have the LED's in your tower speakers with the current gen and that could look pretty epic with all of it lit up.
TY for the idea!!!

I had considered the larger tower speakers, but I’m not sure how much louder they would be. I think (could be wrong...) they would only give a little more in the low end, but mids and highs would still be comparable.

Now, my crazy thinking is if we aren’t 100% happy with the 7s, then obviously a second set wired in parallel should be better, right??? 😆 And run just fine of the same amp channels giving a 2ohm load.

Part of my thinking is if the speakers are mounted “inside” the tower, the more headroom the better with the slightly smaller ones. BUT don’t want to go to a 6.5 either...

Another thing I’m planning on buying is the a link (think it’s called) from WetSounds. It allows two (or more pending how many units are bought) boats to play the same music from one source. So if we are tied up with/near friends our stereos shouldn’t need to be cranked up too much to hear it away from the boat. In (my) theory, allowing the amps to draw less, allowing the battery to last longer.... guess only time will tell on that!!!

I also am planning on buying a nocco jump pack for the just in case....
 

ralphsmithiii

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I installed The WS420
I wished I would have bought this last year!
What a difference it makes
You can tune the music much easier and it sounds so much cleaner
If you can, take a quick pic of your install/mounting location. I'm going with a digital DSP so no analog knobs for the EQ portion but still two analog knobs to manage tower and sub gains. If this doesn't work the way I hope it will then I'll be going the WS420 route myself.
 

ralphsmithiii

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TY for the idea!!!

I had considered the larger tower speakers, but I’m not sure how much louder they would be. I think (could be wrong...) they would only give a little more in the low end, but mids and highs would still be comparable.

Now, my crazy thinking is if we aren’t 100% happy with the 7s, then obviously a second set wired in parallel should be better, right??? 😆 And run just fine of the same amp channels giving a 2ohm load.

Part of my thinking is if the speakers are mounted “inside” the tower, the more headroom the better with the slightly smaller ones. BUT don’t want to go to a 6.5 either...

Another thing I’m planning on buying is the a link (think it’s called) from WetSounds. It allows two (or more pending how many units are bought) boats to play the same music from one source. So if we are tied up with/near friends our stereos shouldn’t need to be cranked up too much to hear it away from the boat. In (my) theory, allowing the amps to draw less, allowing the battery to last longer.... guess only time will tell on that!!!

I also am planning on buying a nocco jump pack for the just in case....
My understanding, from all of the reviews I've read, is that the 8.8's are a massive improvement over the 7.7's. However, I have no actual experience with either, yet. And you have to ask yourself, how loud do you want to go? I don't wake board and maybe tow or be towed around a small handful of times. But 99% of our boat's use will be sight seeing, eating out on the water and hitting up sandbars/drinking/etc. So for me to add JL 8.8 towers just to have a solid clean sound behind the boat is probably excessive. But, in the event we take the party to onto the beach or we do decide we want to try out wake sports then I'll be ready in that regard. Plus, the cost of the previous gen 8.8's at a discounted are hundreds of dollars less than the new LED 7.7's and thus for my application, it just made more sense. If anything, you'd have to assume the 8.8's would produce more mid to low bass but for how far will you notice it behind the boat?

But, you're thinking is spot on with the 7s. If one set isn't enough then add another set! I can't argue that logic although I'm sure someone else can/will. I suppose it would come down to if you like the sound of the 7.7's and they aren't loud enough then maybe another set would add to that. But if you don't like the sound they produce then will another set help in that regard?

With that same broken logic, I should of spent the money on the larger 7.7 interior speakers just for the mid-bass response. But, when I started (like we all do) I told myself here's my "budget" and I don't think I'll ever need to have that type of sound of the boat. The setup I went with (6.5s, 1-10" sub) is a proven go-to and by no means sounds bad. Yet, here I am about to install an DSP to try and tune it and adding in an expensive set of towers just to have sound behind the boat, lol!

The Wetsounds link I think is a neat idea. I haven't read the details about it, but the concept makes sense. Have two seperate stereo's playing the same music so it doesn't sound like a mismash of music when you're hanging out with people you know. And thus, turn down maybe each system a tad, save some battery and still be plenty loud.
 

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My understanding, from all of the reviews I've read, is that the 8.8's are a massive improvement over the 7.7's. However, I have no actual experience with either, yet. And you have to ask yourself, how loud do you want to go? I don't wake board and maybe tow or be towed around a small handful of times. But 99% of our boat's use will be sight seeing, eating out on the water and hitting up sandbars/drinking/etc. So for me to add JL 8.8 towers just to have a solid clean sound behind the boat is probably excessive. But, in the event we take the party to onto the beach or we do decide we want to try out wake sports then I'll be ready in that regard. Plus, the cost of the previous gen 8.8's at a discounted are hundreds of dollars less than the new LED 7.7's and thus for my application, it just made more sense. If anything, you'd have to assume the 8.8's would produce more mid to low bass but for how far will you notice it behind the boat?

But, you're thinking is spot on with the 7s. If one set isn't enough then add another set! I can't argue that logic although I'm sure someone else can/will. I suppose it would come down to if you like the sound of the 7.7's and they aren't loud enough then maybe another set would add to that. But if you don't like the sound they produce then will another set help in that regard?

With that same broken logic, I should of spent the money on the larger 7.7 interior speakers just for the mid-bass response. But, when I started (like we all do) I told myself here's my "budget" and I don't think I'll ever need to have that type of sound of the boat. The setup I went with (6.5s, 1-10" sub) is a proven go-to and by no means sounds bad. Yet, here I am about to install an DSP to try and tune it and adding in an expensive set of towers just to have sound behind the boat, lol!

The Wetsounds link I think is a neat idea. I haven't read the details about it, but the concept makes sense. Have two seperate stereo's playing the same music so it doesn't sound like a mismash of music when you're hanging out with people you know. And thus, turn down maybe each system a tad, save some battery and still be plenty loud.
I hear ya on the 8.8s. Though part of it is like you mentioned, keeping the price down a little. At some point there needs to be max.

I am leaning toward still going with the M600.1, and running 1-10” off it. That way if we decide to add another sub, there isn’t an amp issue of not being enough for 2-10s.

Part of the budget issue is we are replacing the kicker head unit. Going with a WetSounds MC head unit and transom controller. That adds ~$1k alone... But it does give us 4 zone control over the system: bow, cockpit, tower, and sub can all be controlled separately.
 

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Cambo

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If you can, take a quick pic of your install/mounting location. I'm going with a digital DSP so no analog knobs for the EQ portion but still two analog knobs to manage tower and sub gains. If this doesn't work the way I hope it will then I'll be going the WS420 route myself.
The Eq is the way to go benefits from past systems in other boats

-Allows more precise volume control of the over all system The connext system takes large jumps in volume the eq takes smaller increments
-Separate eq bands allow the different types of speakers to be tuned for the most efficient use tower and boat each have there own eq
-The Pa is great for giving instructions when riders are in the water they cant hear you when the motors are running
-Allows quick eq changes due to all the different types of recordings ie. older rock to newer EDM type music the only thing this eq is lacking would be a cross over control knob and more outputs

most of these components are based off of car audio that is designed for small interior spaces with lots of reflective surfaces and natural amplification of low frequency, when introduced to an open area they perform much different

For mounting I have found under the dash on the left side is ergonomically the best location allowing use of the left to control the eq , throttle, forward, and reverse needing the right hand and single hand steering if your right handed. The left hand location also allows someone in the passenger seat to control the music, Typically what would happen during wakeboarding and allowing someone else to drive they would be concentrating very hard on driving and never turn the music up. Directions were given to the spotter in the passenger seat if I point to my ear that means turn up the volume they can easily reach over and bump the volume allowing the driver to concentrate. Nothing better than tearing it up behind the boat with your favorite play list cranked up.
 
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