Engine over heat after tow rope caught

Jmpicking said:

Yeah he said it’s all electrical but he has no clue how it’s electrical when he replaced all the sensors

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Try disconnecting all the batteries overnight. Or just use it and see if the computer figures out that it’s not actually overheating. Maybe there is some sort of drive cycle test that it has to run under certain conditions before it will clear the code.

You had the plugs blow out and flooded the engines a couple weeks ago, right? Probably salt corrosion catching up. Coincidence. But as far as solutions, I got nothing.

the MfM said:

Try disconnecting all the batteries overnight. Or just use it and see if the computer figures out that it’s not actually overheating. Maybe there is some sort of drive cycle test that it has to run under certain conditions before it will clear the code.

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Great idea.. I think lol. I’ll try it tomorrow mechanic has it tonight

the MfM said:

Try disconnecting all the batteries overnight. Or just use it and see if the computer figures out that it’s not actually overheating. Maybe there is some sort of drive cycle test that it has to run under certain conditions before it will clear the code.

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Although I have nothing to add to help, this is good advice. I had a overheat plus check engine (from running on the hose) and the check engine would not clear. After 30 minutes on the lake, with pissers doing fine, it finally cleared itself after shutting down and swapping out wake boarders. Side note, muting that alarm every 5 minutes sucked. I love watching threads like this!

Yeah it’s just a shame when you hear from a mechanic they have no idea what to Tell me to do besides get rid of it. He’s been doing this a long time and never saw anything like this

At least he is honest about it... Some mechanics would replace everything, charge you a boatload, and tell you it was fine...

Andy NJ said:

You had the plugs blow out and flooded the engines a couple weeks ago, right? Probably salt corrosion catching up. Coincidence. But as far as solutions, I got nothing.

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Aha, just caught this about the flooded engine compartment. Take every modular connector apart, one at a time. I believe you may have water intrusion in one or several connectors. This happened to us three seasons ago. I would start my port engine. As soon as I released the key the engine would stop. After checking and swapping ignition switches, spark plugs. coil packs I checked a bunch of modular connectors behind the aft lower starboard access panel in my 06 SX230. There I found a modular connector filled with water. That resolved my mystery starting problem. The strange thing is my boat had never taken on water or had a blown plug. I would definitely check that out whereas you seem to have done most everything else.

Gym said:

Aha, just caught this about the flooded engine compartment. Take every modular connector apart, one at a time. I believe you may have water intrusion in one or several connectors. This happened to us three seasons ago. I would start my port engine. As soon as I released the key the engine would stop. After checking and swapping ignition switches, spark plugs. coil packs I checked a bunch of modular connectors behind the aft lower starboard access panel in my 06 SX230. There I found a modular connector filled with water. That resolved my mystery starting problem. The strange thing is my boat had never taken on water or had a blown plug. I would definitely check that out whereas you seem to have done most everything else.

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what is a modular connector?

Jmpicking said:

what is a modular connector?

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Yamaha primarily uses "deutsch" type connectors.

@Gym great point. Actually, @Cobra Jet Steering LLC said the same thing. I would do this right away!!

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Jmpicking said:

what is a modular connector?

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They are the plastic electrical connectors. They usually have two tabs that you release to disconnect the male from the female part of the connector. Also check the condition of the metal connectors inside. You may find a broken or rotted one.

My plan would be to hook up the yds and watch the temp for both engines on the hose. There isn't a lot of options that would fully clog the numerous cooling passages. The exhaust should never be too hot. It gets fed into the headers by 3 passages on each cylinder, then another injection in each cylinder, then again at the rubber coupler, then 1 more time if i remember correctly. Ohm out the temp sensor. Look under the boat with both engines running to see if more water is coming out of the jet intake on the bad engine. If so, the main feed line between the hose and the engine/oil cooler feeds could be clogged and it's all coming out the normal intake. Maybe crimp the hose behind the water hose connection to block that off and apply pressure to the engine.

Look at the numerous water passages around the cylinder and the exhaust ports.

Any updates?