Amp and sub install on AR240

Well, while we were all offline for a few days....

I picked up a JL MX650 (edit: it is actually a MX10IB3--my bad) #subwoofer for cheap. Well, then, what else could I do but find a used JL M6600 #amplifier for cheap, right? And, with both of these sitting in the bedroom, no one was happy. So, I started my #audio install today.

Tried to start with the sub installed on the kick wall below the bench behind the captain chair, facing inward. However, I forgot my tape measure, and by my reckoning, if I install there it will interfere with the cooler when I put it in there. Thou shalt not mess with the beer. I may now move it to facing forward on the curved surface. Not sure on that, and not drilling anything until I get it all measured. Anyone install in either place and can share any insight? Anyway, that phase put on hold.

I mounted the amp on the forward side of the stowage forward the conn, near the ceiling so I can get to the adjustments. I mounted it on dual rubber bushings so that it sits away from the wall about 1/2 inch.

Then I went to work on the power run. Fortunately it looks like the 20ft will be enough, but still not certain. I am routing through the hole with the fuel line to the engine compartment and then over the fuel tank. I was worried that the pull up to the conn would be difficult, but I got a fish stick through with absolutely no issue.

Tried to take some pics, but it was too dark. I was working by headlight. Hopefully will get up there tomorrow and be able to get some.

End of report.

Hey Tim, the MX650 is a 6.5" coaxial speaker. What sub did you use?

Oops. My bad. Was looking at those. It is an MX10IB3...

Same one I did. Great sub. Not overpowering, but full balance and capability. I really miss my stereo in the boat!

Good to hear, as I found it rather by random chance... Can't wait to get it running and hear it!

tdonoughue said:

Then I went to work on the power run. Fortunately it looks like the 20ft will be enough, but still not certain. I am routing through the hole with the fuel line to the engine compartment and then over the fuel tank. I was worried that the pull up to the conn would be difficult, but I got a fish stick through with absolutely no issue.

Click to expand...

Don't know if this is an option on the newer boats, but I ran my power forward from the battery compartment through the forward right corner of that compartment, which has a gap you can push cable through that can reach into the ski locker in the floor. I ran the power around the ceiling of the ski locker and into the helm compartment. Routing it that way saved me some cable and was very easy - took me less than 15 minutes and didn't even need the fish tape or any drilling, disassembling, or anything. Maybe won't work in yours (I have an 09 SX 230) but might be worth a try.

Thanks, Lee. That might work on my boat too. I know that I found the gap to the ski locker last night. The only difference is that I will do my power run from my Perko rather than a battery, I think. And the Perko is mounted in the normal spot right by the hole for the fuel line. Then the run from the fuel compartment is along with the steering cables, so pretty direct. But your way will save me going around the helm compartment. So I will definitely check that one out.

@tdonoughue Great info. But we want pics (lol)

This site is super easy to post pics. I always had challenges posting on y j b so in my frustration I would just give up.

Loving this site

Today's update and PICS (and again, @Julian and other admins, uploading them is so very nice here!).

Ok, so here is where I put the amp yesterday, as described above:



It is offset from the fiberglass by two rubber grommets (largest ones I could find at Lowe's).



Here is my #switch (which I think is a #BlueSea). Note the new red wire as it runs over to the port with the fuel line.


Here is the red wire in the engine compartment as it comes from the battery compartment (on the left) and follows the fuel line to the fuel tank compartment (on the right).



The red wire then was left here in the fuel compartment. I put a fish stick (upper center) through from the helm compartment to the fuel compartment. Lots of room there--went through with no problem following the same route as the #steering_cables (black). Then, I had run out of time and had to stop.

Today, I picked up from there:



Sorry for the blur. But here is me pulling the red wire through with the fish stick (actually, I switched to the other fish stick with the hole on the end after trying 1 time and losing the wire holder...). There is a fold in the carpet on the helm side, so go slowly.



Then I pulled the black wire over the same route. Hooked them both to the amp, then attached them to the wall with #wire_bungees. Got those at Lowe's too--near the speaker wire and computer wire. They stick on the wall. I will probably replace them with something more positive later. Maybe.



And here are those same two wires, showing where the hole is to run under the helm to the fuel compartment.



I #tinned each end of the wires that I cut. Apply heat of a soldering iron to the wire, then add #solder. The solder will wick right into the strands and keep them together. Did it with my remote wire as well, which I measured and cut. Do be careful to shut off the iron when you are done, or you might knock it over while you are, say, crawling into the helm compartment, and burn your carpet. Not that any such thing would happen to ME. <sigh> But, do take care.



So here is the other end getting prepped. Note that I removed the fuse and installed the tinned ends of the wire. The installation instructions recommend removing that fuse until the end of install, which seems like a good safety idea. I also put on the end connector on both wires (only red shown here). After that, I disassembled my #switch only to find out that the stud in the switch is the next size larger (5/8") than the studs on the batteries. So my negative wire would fit fine, but my positive wire would not. I tried to drill the hole bigger, but wound up twisting the cheap thing fatally and breaking off the loop.

Then I was out of time, so I stopped by the Auto Zone on the way home and got a 5/8" battery connector and crimper...

To be continued...

Thanks for this! I plan on doing this soon in my 242. No sure I have a fish tape, maybe I can use a wire hanger instead?

Those ends that are called "terminal connectors" that connect your wiring to a terminal, has specific thickness and gauge to allow for heat resistance. Drilling them out can reduce their resistance capability. Yes, the terminal posts on the switches are larger than the batteries. A discovery most of us either made in advance of making up the cables...or something we also had to change!

@RobA , you could use a wire hanger, but I am not sure it would be long enough (you need about 3 feet). I didn't even pull the black cable. Just shoved it through... It was a firmer wire, but I may have been able to do it with the red. But I bought all these nice tools a while back, so I thought I would make it easy on myself. It is a pretty big space. You could probably use a yard stick, too.

@txav8r , you are quite correct on all fronts. It would have only been a temporary fix at best, but when I saw how cheap the terminal connector was that I had installed, it turns out it was really for the best anyway...

Thanks for the detailed pics and instructions. I am strongly considering doing some stereo work in mine and knowing the path to the battery is very helpful.

Day number next:

Another short trip to the boat. This time equipped with the proper terminal connectors. Installed the one on the positive, and hooked it into the switch:



Then hooked up the negative lines. I then put the shield around the positive wire from the battery through the engine compartment and into the fuel compartment.

I hooked the remote wire into the acc positive (with the radios). Plugged in the in side of the amp to the out lines on the radio. Then I couldn't resist a little test...



Woot!

Then I was short on time, so I didn't tackle the speaker wires yet.

I moved to planning where he sub would go. I believe I have decided on here:



I debated putting it on the starboard side, but the speaker has a 5.5 inch depth, which will just hit the cooler core there. Even if it doesn't exactly hit it, you know that someone putting in the cooler over there is going to hit the back of the fool thing... The problem with the current location is that it just clears the seat. If you set the seat up and miss the post on which it sits, you will drop the seat on the edge of the speaker. In thinking about it, I decided that I put in the cooler every time, but rarely move that seat. Besides, I think I would rather have the speaker hit on the edge of the outside than on the back of the backside. The torque of a backside hit would certainly do damage.

Discussion?

Question: Do I need a speaker ring? If so, why?

That might blow my clearance with the seat...

Looks good! nice job.

Look behind the location (port side). For some reason, I think the seat dips down and could be a problem for the back side of the sub.

Yes, @mgabsa , it does. There is an indentation where they put the post on which the seat sits when upright. Will certainly double check now that you mention it, but I think I clear it. But thanks for the extra thought! Hate to drill and say 'oops'...

I'm doing a pretty big install in my 240 right now and finding a place for the sub(s) has been a challenge. I have decided to do a sealed enclosure in the same area where you are mounting and using a vent basically where you are mounting the sub. I didn't want to lose my cooler space either. Ive been taking pictures along the way so when Im done Ill post everything. Good Luck!

Welcome today's adventure...

Well, I began by reevaluating the depth I would be able to get in the proposed location. As I think you can see here, pretty narrow at the top. Too narrow for me to risk it.



So I started hunting for a new home and thought...



This seemed perfect. Only down side is having dust settle on the sub, but with the front of this space open, I thought it is essentially already vented!

I carefully taped off and measured. It fit perfectly.



So I started my drilling (after confirming nothing below the spot). I started with a hole saw so I could easily get the scroll saw in... But when I drilled I got this:



See those metal shavings? Yeah, so did I. It seams the fiberglass here is about a full inch thick WITH AN ALUMINUM PLATE EMBEDDED IN THE MIDDLE OF IT! Who does that? Really?



So I tried to get the scroll saw in there and succeeded. However, the fiberglass and metal is so strong, it took me about 30 min to make this progress. And now I am thinking, if this thing is this strong, there must be a reason.

At least I have an out of the way place now to practice my fiberglass repair skills.

All in all, epic fail on the day for this project.

Hunt for a new location is on. Suggestions welcomed.