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'18+ 242 se / Xe 212x With wet sounds amp / Fusion HU getting the best sound with near stock setup.

jacoviii

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Ok so I have given some of you some info on how to get a better sound. So I had told some to set treble to +1 or 2 , Mid to +2 or 3, and Bass to 75% or all the way ,also adj the subwoofer level and HZ on the Fusion HU.
Well I have started my audio upgrades. I wanted to try a line driver / bass booster. I cut the OEM sub RCA going into the WS HTX6 amp. I wired in new RCAs to the harness and to the amp. Fired it up with the sub's RCAs unhooked and the sub still played. It seams that the DSP of the HTX6 uses the Zone one signal input to run the whole amp. I had the L/R speaker output issue from the factory ( fade L but R side of the cabin played / L side of the tower) I reached out to WS and they sent me a pair of flash tools to reprogram both amps HTX4 & HTX6. The flash tools had 2 programs 1 for 2018 & 1 for 2019. I tried both but nether used the SUB signal. But they did fix the L/R issues.
One of the line drivers / booster I have boosts both treble and bass 0 to +18db. Now the highs do not need any help but I will be trying it on the other (zone1) inputs next to see if it will help the bass without over powering the highs.
On another note while messing with the sub I found the wall that it is mounted in flexes a lot. I fount the wall starts to move 180 out of faze. This will cut the subs output as much as half. When I braced the wall there was a notable difference. Now you can not just put a brace between the hull and the sub's mounting wall. If you do and the hull needs to flex (while in slip/docked or tided up to another boat) it could cause cracks in the gel coat. I do not have a fix for this as of yet. More to come.
 

Troch1

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Ok so I have given some of you some info on how to get a better sound. So I had told some to set treble to +1 or 2 , Mid to +2 or 3, and Bass to 75% or all the way ,also adj the subwoofer level and HZ on the Fusion HU.
Well I have started my audio upgrades. I wanted to try a line driver / bass booster. I cut the OEM sub RCA going into the WS HTX6 amp. I wired in new RCAs to the harness and to the amp. Fired it up with the sub's RCAs unhooked and the sub still played. It seams that the DSP of the HTX6 uses the Zone one signal input to run the whole amp. I had the L/R speaker output issue from the factory ( fade L but R side of the cabin played / L side of the tower) I reached out to WS and they sent me a pair of flash tools to reprogram both amps HTX4 & HTX6. The flash tools had 2 programs 1 for 2018 & 1 for 2019. I tried both but nether used the SUB signal. But they did fix the L/R issues.
One of the line drivers / booster I have boosts both treble and bass 0 to +18db. Now the highs do not need any help but I will be trying it on the other (zone1) inputs next to see if it will help the bass without over powering the highs.
On another note while messing with the sub I found the wall that it is mounted in flexes a lot. I fount the wall starts to move 180 out of faze. This will cut the subs output as much as half. When I braced the wall there was a notable difference. Now you can not just put a brace between the hull and the sub's mounting wall. If you do and the hull needs to flex (while in slip/docked or tided up to another boat) it could cause cracks in the gel coat. I do not have a fix for this as of yet. More to come.
When you say the sub still played despite cutting the sub-in connection, it literally played unchanged? Is there even a signal sent over the sub-out from the HU? Why does the frequency adjustment and sub level controls work on the Fusion app if the sub weren't getting it's on specific signal? I'm so confused!!
 

jacoviii

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Ok so we all know Yamaha wouldn't waste $$ on the extra rca wire going from the HU to the helm area. Seeing how they cut them out completely on other models. As far as I can tell it was going to be used In the beginning but it was deemed a warranty issue if you adjusted it to far up.
 
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jacoviii

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As for the sub out RCA I did get a reading on my multimeter. But I will also check it hooked up to another amp.
 

Manningr22

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That's crazy. I did a little testing on mine to see if my 212x is plagued with some of the wiring issues others have alluded to, and without pulling wires off to check parallel vs series, the rest seemed normal. I also took your advice with adjusting the levels and sub tone and was still underwhelmed. Left and right works with all speakers including soundbar. Sub adjustments do turn up and down sub (did the ol' hold your hand against speaker test while adjusting). And the different zones are set up seemingly correctly. 4 Interior speakers and sub wired on zone 1. Soundbar and aft speakers wired on zone 2. From what I can surmise they either underpowered the entire system (they did) and they don't want to have to replace blown-out speakers so they flashed it with a very subdued settings. Gonna contact wetsounds to see if they'd give a better profile I can upload to amp (doubtful), or if they recommend switching out for the same amp with user customizable settings, or something else completely. Thanks for sharing your findings as you go!
 

jacoviii

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I have talked with WS 10+ emails and a few phone calls and the most I could get are the Flash tools to program the amps to the correct DSP. They said NO customized settings and have pulled the software from the dealers that had it.
 

Skysurfer2010

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Ok so I have given some of you some info on how to get a better sound. So I had told some to set treble to +1 or 2 , Mid to +2 or 3, and Bass to 75% or all the way ,also adj the subwoofer level and HZ on the Fusion HU.
I haven't dug into this yet but I've read a few posts commenting on the stock Wet Sounds speakers and amp and Fusion hu being underwhelming. I've read that it's just the stock settings?

I haven't even picked my 242SE up yet but have new Revo RGB 6 speakers to install. I know nothing about amps. I read the owners manual and I don't really understand what all the settings underneath the cover do. What settings are suggested for the amp? Or are they OK how they're set from the factory?

Sorry if this isn't 100% relevant to your original post.
 

jacoviii

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Ignore the Subwoofer settings they are not used by the amp

<iframe width="716" height="403" src="
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jacoviii

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Ok so I did some more testing but,this will be about all I have time as I have sold my amps and MIDs.
I found that with the input signal stock setup amps on (no audio playing Fusion volume @ 3/4) there is a slight white noise not not a hum more of a "shhhh". With audio playing it is there but less noticeable. I unhooked the RCA signal plug and it is still there but a bit less then with the Fusion connected.
Next
I added a Rockford Universal PEQ Remote & Line Driver RFPEQ. The RFPEQ is a full range 20Hz to 20k Hz -0 to+18db boosted Freq is 45Hz and 15k Hz, It also is a line driver 2v-10v
So when adding to the input (no audio playing) and found the white noise was a bit more but not a killer. I had the RFPEQ line driver setting at min. This is the gain in volts 2v-10v not the PEQ bass nob. The Wet sounds input gain is set low so you do not want to over drive it.
When turning PEQ nob (no audio playing) there was more or less noise as expected. Now with music playing and the PEQ nob turned up WOW the highs are crisp and the BASS is booming. The main issues is the add noise from the boat panels / head compartment door buzzing and rattling from the bass.
I'm going to check some of the grounding to see if I can reduce the white noise. But the white noise is not a deal breaker. and I'm being very critical
With all of this I wish I would have tested this first before and saved on a full new system ( 8 Revo 6 boat/cabin/stern speakers,amp, 2nd sub and amp.) all to come shortly.
 
Last edited:

jacoviii

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With Fusion volume at a little less the half and a phone spl meter& PEQ nob set at 0 I was seeing 73db and with the PEQ nob set at +18db I was seeing 90db @ the captains chair.
 
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Troch1

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Ok so I did some more testing but,this will be about all I have time as I have sold my amps and MIDs.
I found that with the input signal stock setup amps on (no audio playing Fusion volume @ 3/4) there is a slight white noise not not a hum more of a "shhhh". With audio playing it is there but less noticeable. I unhooked the RCA signal plug and it is still there but a bit less then with the Fusion connected.
Next
I added a Rockford Universal PEQ Remote & Line Driver RFPEQ. The RFPEQ is a full range 20Hz to 20k Hz -0 to+18db boosted Freq is 45Hz and 15k Hz, It also is a line driver 2v-10v
So when adding to the input (no audio playing) and found the white noise was a bit more but not a killer. I had the RFPEQ line driver setting at min. This is the gain in volts 2v-10v not the PEQ bass nob. The Wet sounds input gain is set low so you do not want to over drive it.
When turning PEQ nob (no audio playing) there was more or less noise as expected. Now with music playing and the PEQ nob turned up WOW the highs are crisp and the BASS it booming. The main issues is the add noise from the boat panels / head compartment door buzzing and rattling from the bass.
I'm going to check some of the grounding to see if I can reduce the white noise. But the white noise is not a deal breaker. and I'm being very critical
With all of this I wish I would have tested this first before and saved on a full new system ( 8 Revo 6 boat/cabin/stern speakers,amp, 2nd sub and amp.) all to come shortly.
So you intercepted the SUB low level input to the WetSounds amp and inserted the RFPEQ in that path? Or this is Zone 1 you intercepted?
 

jacoviii

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Sorry Zone 1 signal. The amp does not use the sub input even though it is there. I got the correct crimps/ crimper and re-pinned the OEM plug to RCAs.
 

jacoviii

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Now I used the RF PEQ because it was cheap to test with. I just got a friends AudioControl The Epicenter concert series I will try tonight
 

BigAbe75

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Ok so I did some more testing but,this will be about all I have time as I have sold my amps and MIDs.
I found that with the input signal stock setup amps on (no audio playing Fusion volume @ 3/4) there is a slight white noise not not a hum more of a "shhhh". With audio playing it is there but less noticeable. I unhooked the RCA signal plug and it is still there but a bit less then with the Fusion connected.
Next
I added a Rockford Universal PEQ Remote & Line Driver RFPEQ. The RFPEQ is a full range 20Hz to 20k Hz -0 to+18db boosted Freq is 45Hz and 15k Hz, It also is a line driver 2v-10v
So when adding to the input (no audio playing) and found the white noise was a bit more but not a killer. I had the RFPEQ line driver setting at min. This is the gain in volts 2v-10v not the PEQ bass nob. The Wet sounds input gain is set low so you do not want to over drive it.
When turning PEQ nob (no audio playing) there was more or less noise as expected. Now with music playing and the PEQ nob turned up WOW the highs are crisp and the BASS it booming. The main issues is the add noise from the boat panels / head compartment door buzzing and rattling from the bass.
I'm going to check some of the grounding to see if I can reduce the white noise. But the white noise is not a deal breaker. and I'm being very critical
With all of this I wish I would have tested this first before and saved on a full new system ( 8 Revo 6 boat/cabin/stern speakers,amp, 2nd sub and amp.) all to come shortly.
I’m gonna need the Cliff’s Notes version... this thread is over my head. But, I’d be all for getting a little more juice out of my system if it’s misconfigured from the factory. :)
 

jacoviii

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I’m gonna need the Cliff’s Notes version... this thread is over my head. But, I’d be all for getting a little more juice out of my system if it’s misconfigured from the factory. :)
First fade L to R and make sure that the sound is on the correct speakers boat/tower. When this is mixed up the mono sound muddys everything up. Next I can build you a RCA to OEM harness. Or you can too.
 

jacoviii

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Ok so I tried the Audio Control: The Epicenter concert series the sound was good maybe better but my friend could not find the bass nob. I had another nob but it did not give me full control. Another maybe issue is the sub may be playing out of phase. I could not get my hand in to the sub's connection. I will test it tomorrow. I was playing some bass heavy music and it looked like the sub was pushing when I felt like it should be pulling. Yes I know speakers push and pull no matter how the are hooked up but many factors determine what sounds best (box , Free air, location.....)
 

BigAbe75

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First fade L to R and make sure that the sound is on the correct speakers boat/tower. When this is mixed up the mono sound muddys everything up. Next I can build you a RCA to OEM harness. Or you can too.
Ok. I’ll check the fade tomorrow and take some screenshots of my current Fusion config.
 

jacoviii

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Some stuff I put on FB just wanted it all in one place
Ok i would give you detailed pic but I just sold my amps. If you use the 420 . The wires at the top of the plug are signal L/R each channel has 3 wires, white&black together is L+ and a single black is L- ... red&black together is R+ and a single black is R- for Zone 1. The lower set is the SUB signal input. but the HTX DSP amp does not use it. I bought the crimping tool and the crimps. Then I removed all the wires from the plug and added a short female RCA. then I added RCA ends to the stock wires that I removed from the plug and put my new EQ in line. You could skip re-pinning the plug and just cut the wires a few inches from the amp and add the RCA plugs on each end.

You will also need to do this to the tower amp HTX4. It sound like a lot but its not bad. When using the WS-420 you will only use the signal from Zone 1 and the WS-420 will put out 2 Zones boat/ tower and has a fader to adjust the level of each Zone.

I could make a pug and play kit but would need a deposit. You would need 3 plugs @ $8ea and and 3 set of RCA end @$8ea plus a bit for my time.
 

Pkstr242X

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Do you have the FB link?
 
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