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2014 212x/212ss Bow roller???.??

Ratket

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Who has a 14-15 212 and has upgraded to a Stoltz?
Do you have any pics?
Do you happen to have part numbers?
Thanks for the support all!!!
 

"IN A MEETING"

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25001-K 3.5 inch Stoltz Bow Roller with Bells for Yamaha Jet Boat- Shoreland'r Trailers
 

"IN A MEETING"

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$33.99 at sturdybuiltonline.com
 

Dthorpe

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I have a Stoltz and highly recommend them. Unfortunately I used my boat before adding the Stoltz and I had some bad scuff marks that I could not remove with solvents or polishes. I finally used a Magic Eraser on it even though I had read that it could dull the glossy gel coat. It removed the visible scuffs and did not dull anything.
 

Jmulvihill

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So does the Stoltz 3.5” it or 4” kit work the best for the ‘14 212ss? In looking at the pics on the SturdyBuilt website, the 3.5” kit says it is for Yamaha jetboats seems like the roller angles do not align with the 212 bow as well as that 4” kit may. It may align really well with other Yamaha hulls... Has anyone tried the 4”, either semi-v or the one with the bells for the winch post? The angles on those just seem to better follow the bow hull contours on the 212. Here is a pic of the existing roller on the 212ss I am in process of buying and the pic of the rollers from SturdyBuilt.

Thanks all!
 

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Ratket

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I run the 446 with the 355 side rollers. I feel I get better hulk contact witH this set up over any “ Pre made kit”. I do need to shorten up my bolt, but it’s a non issue for me. Here is a pic
27E176FC-759C-48E4-9706-3124E861C6BF.jpegC98B3DED-1795-42D0-A66E-574107DBF3E7.jpeg
 

Jmulvihill

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I run the 446 with the 355 side rollers. I feel I get better hulk contact witH this set up over any “ Pre made kit”. I do need to shorten up my bolt, but it’s a non issue for me. Here is a pic
View attachment 106339View attachment 106340
Thanks for the pics Ratket!! So it that a Shorelandr trailer? I was not able to get all the info off of the trailer with the boat I am buying, but it has the same decal for the bow strap routing, so I assume it will be the same manufacturer. If I recall the Sholtz website, the 446 is a 4" roller and the 335 were the caps. That does look like it fits the front hull contours well. All of the rollers with the big bells on the outside seem like they all would not fit very well.
 

Ratket

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It’s all personal preference. The 446 is between 3 3/4” and 4”. The best thing to do is measure the gap where the mid section of the roller goes. All the different size boats from 19 ft up to 24 all have different hull shapes where the bow roller sits so a “ one size fits all” approach is “ ok “ at best.
 

Jmulvihill

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It’s all personal preference. The 446 is between 3 3/4” and 4”. The best thing to do is measure the gap where the mid section of the roller goes. All the different size boats from 19 ft up to 24 all have different hull shapes where the bow roller sits so a “ one size fits all” approach is “ ok “ at best.
Yes. I found out I have the Shoreland'r trailer too, and we are both running the 212 hull (yours is X, mine is SS). I may go ahead and get that roller and the caps on order. I HATE the original one that is on the boat. Looks like I may have some marks/scratches to work on in that area because of that original roller, so the sooner it is replaced, the better. Where did you order the piece/parts from since the 446/355 is not in a pre-built kit?

Thanks for the great info!! Have an awesome day!!
 

Cambo

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How much space is between the metal and rubber it looks like the roller could compress and the metal could contact the hull




106375
 
Last edited:

Jmulvihill

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I run the 446 with the 355 side rollers. I feel I get better hulk contact witH this set up over any “ Pre made kit”. I do need to shorten up my bolt, but it’s a non issue for me. Here is a pic
View attachment 106339View attachment 106340
Did you mean the 325 side roller matched with the 446? I am not seeing that the 355 is a side roller. Only the 325 and 435, and it looks more like the 325. Thanks!
 

drewkaree

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Did you mean the 325 side roller matched with the 446? I am not seeing that the 355 is a side roller. Only the 325 and 435, and it looks more like the 325. Thanks!
Your pic from Sturdybuilt has the kit you want, IF the measurements of your trailer are the same. You're looking for the bow roller RP-446 and the roller end caps RP-325. Both are drilled for 1/2". 4 Inch Stoltz Semi-V Bow Roller Kit

You can buy both singly, or the kit, from here as well: Stoltz Polyurethane Boat Trailer Rollers Made in the USA!

The kit seems to be out of stock right now, so if you buy the parts individually, you'll have to buy a 1/2" diameter 7" long bolt, 2 washers, and a locknut.

I run the 446 with the 355 side rollers. I feel I get better hulk contact
Please, NO hulk contact! Hulk SMASH! 😜


How much space is between the metal and rubber it looks like the roller could compress and the metal could contact the hull
The center roller is VERY sturdy and doesn't compress. Apparently, it's strong enough for a man, but made for a woman boat hull. The space between is about 1/8".
 

Ratket

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How much space is between the metal and rubber it looks like the roller could compress and the metal could contact the hull




View attachment 106375
What @drewkaree said. The amount of force it would take for it to “ Smash” the rollers enough to make contact is more than I could apply if I tried. But to your point I think the end caps and roller being maybe an extra Inch thicker in overall diameter would be great, but they work fine at the size they are
 

Jmulvihill

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Your pic from Sturdybuilt has the kit you want, IF the measurements of your trailer are the same. You're looking for the bow roller RP-446 and the roller end caps RP-325. Both are drilled for 1/2". 4 Inch Stoltz Semi-V Bow Roller Kit

You can buy both singly, or the kit, from here as well: Stoltz Polyurethane Boat Trailer Rollers Made in the USA!

The kit seems to be out of stock right now, so if you buy the parts individually, you'll have to buy a 1/2" diameter 7" long bolt, 2 washers, and a locknut.



Please, NO hulk contact! Hulk SMASH! 😜




The center roller is VERY sturdy and doesn't compress. Apparently, it's strong enough for a man, but made for a woman boat hull. The space between is about 1/8".
Awesome! Well, I got the roller and caps on order. I will locate the bolt/washer/nut hardware around here. as I didn't;t see them on the websites for ordering. Thanks!!
 

Jmulvihill

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Awesome! Well, I got the roller and caps on order. I will locate the bolt/washer/nut hardware around here. as I didn't;t see them on the websites for ordering. Thanks!!
I got the new 446 with the 325 bells installed today. So much better fit for sure!! But now I have to work on the hull as it is really scuffed up, and even one gouge where I think that the roller mount plate on one side made contact with the hull, maybe when the boat was being loaded and somebody struck the original roller bell causing it to deform. The orig al rollers were crap for sure.
 

Ratket

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You would have to have that trailer really deep for the front bunks not to guide the boat straight. It’s definitely possible but as long as you keep the trailer at an appropriate depth, and take your time it’s a “ Oh shit” moment you should never encounter.
 

drewkaree

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If you look at @PJ73 and his scratches/gouges on his bow, it's my belief that if the center roller deformed, you could easily tear up the bow on the metal "ears" of the roller holder itself. IMO, the gouges line up perfectly with the metal holder

 

Jmulvihill

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If you look at @PJ73 and his scratches/gouges on his bow, it's my belief that if the center roller deformed, you could easily tear up the bow on the metal "ears" of the roller holder itself. IMO, the gouges line up perfectly with the metal holder

WOW! My gouge is not anything like PJ73's marks on his hull. This is just one little place that has a little chunk taken out. The other marks are just where those original bells constantly rubbed on the hull. Not sure what it is gonna take to get it looking better, but hopefully some rubbing/buffing compound will help, then a good coat of wax. I'll have to read through the threads to see how others may have addressed it, as I am sure that it is a common issue given the hull design and Yamaha's original choice for the front roller and bells.
 

Ratket

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If you look at @PJ73 and his scratches/gouges on his bow, it's my belief that if the center roller deformed, you could easily tear up the bow on the metal "ears" of the roller holder itself. IMO, the gouges line up perfectly with the metal holder

I meant scratch the hull with the side of the through bolt on the bow roller. “ as if the operator missed the bow stop because he came in sideways and the trailer was to deep to guide the boat. I fully agree with your statement.
 

PJ73

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So we determined it was a combination of a shitty aftermarket bow roller that was way too soft for the size and weight of the boat combined with one of the ramps we would constantly use (as we trailer all over the state). This ramp was our "home" lake, nearest to our house so a quick, "lets hit the lake" and be there in 10 minutes. The ramp was a double angle where the first part was steep and then once in the water the trailer would flatten out so it would almost be "jackknifed" up and down (if that makes sense) with a short ramp, we couldn't get the trailer in far enough to submerge fully. The ramp in the water was just long enough to get my rear tires to the end where it drops off and that was as far as we could go. We never had an issue with our 18' sea ray, but that's a completely different boat and trailer so, apples and oranges.

We decided to get a new, tougher roller and put a bow plate on due to the fact, as I stated, we trailer and drop in at multiple lakes all summer long.

Wile the stock roller from Yamaha is absolute crap, I would suggest, if you're going to swap out, make sure you don't get one too soft. I hope this helps others. But hey, at least I got the first scratches on the new boat out of the way. lol

Oh, and @drewkaree, the lake we had issues was Nagawicka, just and FYI
 

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