Matthew
Jet Boat Lover
- Messages
- 16
- Reaction score
- 8
- Points
- 82
- Location
- Cedarburg, WI
- Boat Make
- Yamaha
- Year
- 2014
- Boat Model
- X
- Boat Length
- 21
Since I haven't seen a thread specific to a 212X, figured I would create one. I had convinced my loving wife that we needed perfect pass, and in trade she is getting a girls weekend in Nashville. I ordered my PP setup directly from PP and they were fantastic. They shipped when they said they would and it arrived as expected. A+ outfit thus far.
I did the install on my lift, and my helper (wife) is ready if needed!
I started my install at the dash side of things and planned to work my way back.
1) Remove the 8 screws that hold the gauge assembly to the dash shroud. Once removed pull that panel out gently. There is plenty of excess wiring for the gauges to make this possible.
2) Remove the wiring from the stock speedo. Unscrew the collar around the gauge that retains it to the gauge assembly panel.
3) I had to use a cordless dremel tool to remove the tab at the bottom of the opening for the speedometer so the PP gauge fit. Just a little bit of material needed to be removed. Install the perfect pass gauge and tighten the two brass nuts on the retaining bracket to lock it into the dash.
4) I decided to mount my GPS antenna on the dash. I know a lot of folks said this can be mounted under the dash but for the time being I wanted to assure the GPS was getting a good signal as I was getting the PP dialed in and adjusted. I used the included velcro and snuck the wire under the gauge assembly. All said and done it looks decent.
5) When you have the gauge assembly removed you'll see a "ledge" that is left from the molding of the console. I mounted the Master module here, using some industrial velcro. Sorry, forgot a picture of this step. Make sure all connections are made properly and secured well.
6) For power I found the Yellow/Red Strip wire right off the port ignition (I always start engines from port to starboard). It had a bullet connector on it already and was unused for anything else. I crimped a new bullet connector on the purple wire to the Master module. For ground I simply tapped into a ground that I found under the dash.
7) I ran the cables to the servos through the fuel tank compartment along with the steering and throttle cable. I ALWAYS use wire loom and lots of zip ties to keep things from chafing and moving. Some of the extra wire in loom is 12 AWG speaker wire for the portside rear speakers.
8) Onto the port side engine servos. On the 2014 212X I had to relocate the blower hose and the throttle potentiometer. It helps if you have a helper here as these are through bolted so my wife held the screwdriver and I crawled into the ballast tank area to loosen up and re-install into the relocated area. Note the angle I mounted the servo at...I felt this provided the smoothest/no binding of the throttle cables.
9) Onto the starboard side. Same story. Relocated the throttle potentiometer, blower motor and mounted things to avoid binding. Again, having that helper here is really nice!
10) I adjusted the cables so at WOT the potentiometers hit the WOT stops and at idle they hit the idle stops. At idle I also tried to assure the cable tension was equal and when the throttle moves forward the potentiometers move equally. This will take trial and error.
11) Triple check all connections, and run through the servo and cable tests in the PP user manual. If everything is good then go give it a test on the water!
Total install time was roughly 3-4 hours. My biggest issue was the time to took to haul to the garage if I needed a different tool. In my driveway with a helper, this could have been done in 2-3 hours, easily.
Other important notes:
-you may need to flip the direction of the the brass L bracket on the servo to maximize the amount of adjustment you have from the servo to the potentiometer
-take 2 10mm wrench's out on your first trial so you can make adjustments
-the stock value of 90 KDW was too much for my boat. it was fine for wake boarding speeds but at 30 mph it was hunting quite a bit. The KDW is currently set to 60 and that seems to be working really good.
I'll post more comments and updates here shortly!
I did the install on my lift, and my helper (wife) is ready if needed!
I started my install at the dash side of things and planned to work my way back.
1) Remove the 8 screws that hold the gauge assembly to the dash shroud. Once removed pull that panel out gently. There is plenty of excess wiring for the gauges to make this possible.
2) Remove the wiring from the stock speedo. Unscrew the collar around the gauge that retains it to the gauge assembly panel.
3) I had to use a cordless dremel tool to remove the tab at the bottom of the opening for the speedometer so the PP gauge fit. Just a little bit of material needed to be removed. Install the perfect pass gauge and tighten the two brass nuts on the retaining bracket to lock it into the dash.
4) I decided to mount my GPS antenna on the dash. I know a lot of folks said this can be mounted under the dash but for the time being I wanted to assure the GPS was getting a good signal as I was getting the PP dialed in and adjusted. I used the included velcro and snuck the wire under the gauge assembly. All said and done it looks decent.
5) When you have the gauge assembly removed you'll see a "ledge" that is left from the molding of the console. I mounted the Master module here, using some industrial velcro. Sorry, forgot a picture of this step. Make sure all connections are made properly and secured well.
6) For power I found the Yellow/Red Strip wire right off the port ignition (I always start engines from port to starboard). It had a bullet connector on it already and was unused for anything else. I crimped a new bullet connector on the purple wire to the Master module. For ground I simply tapped into a ground that I found under the dash.
7) I ran the cables to the servos through the fuel tank compartment along with the steering and throttle cable. I ALWAYS use wire loom and lots of zip ties to keep things from chafing and moving. Some of the extra wire in loom is 12 AWG speaker wire for the portside rear speakers.
8) Onto the port side engine servos. On the 2014 212X I had to relocate the blower hose and the throttle potentiometer. It helps if you have a helper here as these are through bolted so my wife held the screwdriver and I crawled into the ballast tank area to loosen up and re-install into the relocated area. Note the angle I mounted the servo at...I felt this provided the smoothest/no binding of the throttle cables.
9) Onto the starboard side. Same story. Relocated the throttle potentiometer, blower motor and mounted things to avoid binding. Again, having that helper here is really nice!
10) I adjusted the cables so at WOT the potentiometers hit the WOT stops and at idle they hit the idle stops. At idle I also tried to assure the cable tension was equal and when the throttle moves forward the potentiometers move equally. This will take trial and error.
11) Triple check all connections, and run through the servo and cable tests in the PP user manual. If everything is good then go give it a test on the water!
Total install time was roughly 3-4 hours. My biggest issue was the time to took to haul to the garage if I needed a different tool. In my driveway with a helper, this could have been done in 2-3 hours, easily.
Other important notes:
-you may need to flip the direction of the the brass L bracket on the servo to maximize the amount of adjustment you have from the servo to the potentiometer
-take 2 10mm wrench's out on your first trial so you can make adjustments
-the stock value of 90 KDW was too much for my boat. it was fine for wake boarding speeds but at 30 mph it was hunting quite a bit. The KDW is currently set to 60 and that seems to be working really good.
I'll post more comments and updates here shortly!
Last edited:
