2015 242 S Impellers and wear rings replacement

[Hezi]

This is the conclusion of a thread I started here:
https://jetboaters.net/threads/at-what-point-an-impeller-duct-needs-replacement.18607/#post-322342

At 55 Hours, my boat performance degraded to the point I had to remove the jet pumps and inspect. I ended up overhauling the pumps (excluding the bearing). This post is to help whoever wants to do the job themselves.

Shopping list:

Here are the parts I got from powersportsparts4less.com I found them from a post a user here recommended and they were cheaper than all the sites I Goggled. Moreover, they messed up on my order and to make sure I am getting my parts on time, they air shipped it to me at their cost (thanks Jeff). http://shop.powersportsparts4less.com/fiche_section_detail.asp?section=1096161&category=Boats&make=Yamaha&year=2015&fveh=29423 It was a little hard to get them and I ended up figuring out this is browardmotorsports.com the Hollywood location. Here are the parts. I used them all except 2 O-rings which are part of the bearing I ended up not using (red x).

Chemicals and more are as follow:
Permatex 51813 to replace Locktite 518
Permatex 59235 to replace Locktite 572
Locktite 242 (blue)
1 tube of Yamalube Molybdenum Disulfide Grease from eBay
Maxima 80916 Waterproof Grease to replace Epnoc Grease (thanks @boudin !)
A can of brake cleaner to clean surfaces.
Scotch Brite pad to gently clean surfaces
Solas WR014H Impeller Shaft Holder

Other than that I would have:
* A 6 points 27 MM wrench for the impeller (I used 12 points and it was fine).
* Torque wrenches that adjustable to the specific task (I used a large for the impeller and large screws and a smaller one for smaller screws per the book).
* Metric Allen keys, sockets, and wrenches.
* A 30 mm + ruler (to calibrate steering and gate position at install).
* A wire brush to clean old sealant from screws.

To remove the pumps, first remove the two “skid” plates under the pumps. You will need the room to put a flat screwdriver between two tabs to pray the pumps from the transom plate.
Remove the gate cable (slide rod cover over the ball joint to disconnect w/o removing screws). Remove rod connecting pumps to articulating keel, and remove steering cable.
After that, you have four 14 mm and one 10 mm screws and the pumps are out.

While the pumps were out, I cleaned and replaced 2 O rings on each pump for plastic filter, cleaned replaced the grease, and replaced an O ring on the bearing cones, replaced impellers, wear rings, and anodes. The manual is very clear on how to adjust the gate and steering.


2 pointers worth mentioning; when I removed the 4 14mm screws holding the pumps to the transom, it was very hard. Trying to install the pumps, the screws wouldn’t screw in the holes. I found lots of aluminum shaving in the holes and thought I may need a new transom plates. I didn’t feel like going and getting a metric rethread kit and was very close on giving up and taking as is to a shop to complete the job. Instead, I tried screwing the 8 screws to the holes. I ended up with 2 that wouldn’t go in. Upon closer inspection, I realized the thread on those screws grew somehow metal on the tip and clogged the thread. It was like someone welded a small dot of metal smack on the thread and this was what stopped it from screwing in. I took a small and fine metal saw and just re-grooved the thread in those spots and all was fine! Another pointer; when installing the aluminum plates under the jets, I used power tool. The trailer was interfering with the tool and I initially screwed the allen screws by hand before using the power tool. On the last screw I got lazy and use the power tool and skip the screwing by hand part. Don’t do it! I killed the thread and this last screw cannot be tightened ever again. I just put a bunch of silicone in and over it to hold it in place.

All the rest you can figure out from those pictures;

 

[Scottie]

Great post. Any thoughts on what caused the impeller wear/damge? I've got over 200 hours on both engines, and the impellers themselves are pristine. 60 hrs seems like a short time for them to look like they did.

 

[Chip F.]

Great post.
Here is the key for all the lube, sealant and adhesives.

 

[Hezi]

Great post. Any thoughts on what caused the impeller wear/damge? I've got over 200 hours on both engines, and the impellers themselves are pristine. 60 hrs seems like a short time for them to look like they did.

True that. I got the boat used with about 40 hours from a fellow in Miami area. When I first took it on the water, it wouldn't top 45 MPH so I suspect the impellers already experienced some abuse. That day, I beached on a sand bar (Sandy Hook NJ). Trying to get back to sea, the gates got stuck in the reverse position and I half circled right back to the beach. I spent 1.5 hours with friends, dealer,internet, and insurance company trying to get myself towed or fixed. I ended up forcing the gates up while a friend was pushing the throttle controls forward. By than, water level was so low, I was scraping the bottom. Being the novice that I am, I pushed lots of sand through the jets before giving up. This was around 3pm. Not before 1030 pm the tide was high enough for me to float and get unstuck. When the water line was very low and the boat was on land, I saw a big hole next to the boat (in our stupidity, we tried to wiggle it to deeper water and gave up after moving it a little). Only than I realized how much sand I sucked through the jets.

There you have it. I am the main reason for thise bad impellers.
Now I know a lot better...

 

[jellyfishbone]

Greetings. This is an old discussion, but very relevant right now for me. Is there anybody out there...?

(2014 212x) I'm replacing the impeller bearings on the port side after the port side started producing a whining sound at idle out of the water.

It took a massive undertaking to get the bearings off the shaft (but a different story). I am now at the point of reassembly. On page 6-13 on Hezi's service manual image, the impeller should be torqued to a Hulk-smashing 243 ft-lbs. Perfect timing since Lowes has a sale on a big torque wrench.

Without the impeller the shaft turns in the housing with new bearings and grease without much effort. When I pulled out the jet pump from the boat, the shaft could easily turn. Now, when I torque the impeller past 100 ft-lbs the shaft is almost frozen, nearly impossible to turn without a wrench. I'm nervous about going to 243.

For anybody who has done this before, is this normal? Seems like this is excessive resistance. I'm wondering if the bearings were pressed in incorrectly.

Thanks much for any words of wisdom.

 

[Hezi]

I think you have an issue with the bearing. It has been a minute since I did the job, but if my memory serves me right, the impeller is pressing on there shaft with no consequences to the bearings. I think I took a 27mm wrench closed side on the impeller. Put the wrench on a table vice, and torqued the end of the shaft with the special socket. If I remember right, the thread is reversed to prevent the impeller to open under power (so theoretically the impeller is self tightening). If the other pump is apart, I would do a side to side comparison. I ended up replacing the the impellers twice. Second time around it was a breeze. I wouldn't install the pump if the impeller restrict the free turn of the shaft. My guess the shaft is not pressed correctly into the pump housing. If you come to a dead end, take the pump to a dealer to inspect. It should be be a whole lot cheaper than to bring the whole boat. Good luck buddy.

 

[Tyler83]

I just started this process on my 2011 242 LS because of a bone head move sucking sand up and a bad intermediate bearing seal. I bought new wear rings for both pumps. Do y’all think I need to change the impeller? Looks like it it was rubbing on the original stainless wear ring. I can’t turn the impeller in the stainless ring but I can in the new plastic fairly easy. What do y’all think. Here are some pictures of the impeller and the new wear rings on them

 

[Hezi]

I would change the impellers before the wear ring. What I did was buying new impellers and sending the old pair for a rebuild (I ended up using them later on so it was worth it). You can send your in and get a replacement rebuild impellers right away.

 

[Pewaukee Dave]

When I reassembled the components the spline lined up when I slid it in there was a mild resistance. Now I cannot pull it back out. I am assuming this is bad news and now I have a bigger job on my hands.
Anyone else have this happen and what was the process to repair it?