210 FSH Sport Solar Charger

[lazergeek]

I added a 100 Watt solar panel to the T-Top with a Solar Charge Controller. I dont have power for a charger in my storage location. Even with my moring cover covering the solar panel while in storage the battery it still produces enough power to keep the battery topped off. Spent all day on the water Friday runing the Stereo and and 1500W amp all day and still had plenty of power at the end of the day. Unfortionatly the charge controller is cheap and does not display the current production amps. The Solar Panel is mounted to the T-Top with paracord in the front, with bungee securing the sides and rear. Wires are ran down the tower to the 10 Amp Breaker inside the changing room with the Charge controller mounted to the back side of the glove box. I have another 10 amp breaker next to the battery connecting to the house battery. All the wire is 10 AWG. The DVSR also kicks in to keep the Start Battery charged also.

 

[mkbcaptain]

That’s pretty cool. I’ve never needed it while out. Just spent 10 hours with the radio bumping and battery was still about 12.2vdc. But could be a cool addition!

 

[Lomo24]

Very cool! Thanks for sharing.

 

[lazergeek]

That’s pretty cool. I’ve never needed it while out. Just spent 10 hours with the radio bumping and battery was still about 12.2vdc. But could be a cool addition!

I have been ok so far too but I dont have a way to charge in storage without this.

 

[mkbcaptain]

I have been ok so far too but I dont have a way to charge in storage without this.

Ahh okay. That make sense. I installed a battery tender and just plug up when I get home. But if you are in a lot without power then this is way cool! I’m going to have to tell a buddy about this. Thanks man!

 

[Magratton]

Hopefully you will see this. it has been a year - how has the panel held up to the rigors of boating, marine environment? Also, specifically what panel did you install?

 

[lazergeek]

Hopefully you will see this. it has been a year - how has the panel held up to the rigors of boating, marine environment? Also, specifically what panel did you install?

I used this panel https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07TDK1KPF
The panel actually died around October. I assuming it didn't like the Florida Heat, I even had it on a corrugated plastic sheet to help minimize overheating. The Amazon seller replaced it no problem. I created a PVC pipe frame for it that time to allow more air circulation. If it dies again im replacing with a rigid panel as this will line up with the factor frame using Z Mounts https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08SVXMK3V/

 

[Eric&Miyako]

I'm going to install solar on my FSH 210 this weekend. We are heavy users of electricity and other than carrying a generator, I see no other way to keep my 3 deep cycle batteries working around the clock. My 2 boat batteries stay charged when driving around, but the 3 others that were originally installed to power the trolling motor (that I rarely use) need assistance. I just purchased a couple small outriggers (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B071GBV955?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details) that I will use to place the solar panel on the t-top rod holders. I will run the wires into a t-top box (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B09M8W5NV8?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details) and have power for a VHF radio, solar inverter, as well as USB charging capability and other things I'm not really sure of. I'll put up photos and specifications as soon as I get everything working. I just wanted to put this up to get some thoughts from others who may have tried this and succeeded or failed.

 

[lazergeek]

I replaced the solar charge controller today with a dual bank charge controller. It will charge the start battery at 1 amp when nessessary. I also replaced the house battery with a Li-Time 100ah LIPO4. Because the lithium resting voltage is above the DSVR engage voltage I had to modify the DVSR to engage only when the igntion is on. I used relays under the dash to enable the DSVR if either ignition swithc is on.

 

[FSH 210 Sport]

Great job!

The dual solar charger controller, yiu mention that it will charge your start battery at 1 amp when necessary, does that mean that the house battery also gets 1 Amp? Or is the solar charger user selectable as far as distributing available charge current? Thereby limiting the start to 1A and all remaining available current will go to the house battery?

I believe I asked this next question in another thread or pm, I assume the charge controller is also battery chemistry selectable between battery output 1 & 2, E.G. Battery 1-start battery flooded lead acid, Battery 2-house battery LiFePO4?

Has the 100 watt flexible solar panel that was replaced under warranty continued to live on or did you have to go with the proposed rigid panel? How many amps do you see coming from this panel in full sun? The math says 6.94A @100%, but that’s not usually the case, I read a review on the 200W / 13.8A @100% renogy system and that guy reported 140W=70% output from his 200 watt system in full sun and said “that is what he expected” which is about 10% better than I thought it would be, so maybe 4.86A output from your 100 watt panel?

What is the small black box sitting atop the house battery for? And what is other small flat device with the red / yellow wires?

Unrelated question, how did the mister system end up working out?

 

[lazergeek]

Great job!

The dual solar charger controller, yiu mention that it will charge your start battery at 1 amp when necessary, does that mean that the house battery also gets 1 Amp? Or is the solar charger user selectable as far as distributing available charge current? Thereby limiting the start to 1A and all remaining available current will go to the house battery?

I believe I asked this next question in another thread or pm, I assume the charge controller is also battery chemistry selectable between battery output 1 & 2, E.G. Battery 1-start battery flooded lead acid, Battery 2-house battery LiFePO4?

Has the 100 watt flexible solar panel that was replaced under warranty continued to live on or did you have to go with the proposed rigid panel? How many amps do you see coming from this panel in full sun? The math says 6.94A @100%, but that’s not usually the case, I read a review on the 200W / 13.8A @100% renogy system and that guy reported 140W=70% output from his 200 watt system in full sun and said “that is what he expected” which is about 10% better than I thought it would be, so maybe 4.86A output from your 100 watt panel?

What is the small black box sitting atop the house battery for? And what is other small flat device with the red / yellow wires?

Unrelated question, how did the mister system end up working out?

The Start battery is limited to 1 amp max from the solar controller, the house battery will get full amps available when it charges.

The solar controller house battery is selectable between all types in the config but the start battery is locked at flooded lead acid.

The replaced flex panel is still going strong (I think, at least it outputing voltage). The original panel I had mounted to corrigated plastic which was bungied to my t-top. Im not sure if movement while driving on the freeway killed it or the Miami heat. The replacement I mounted to a PVC Pipe frame to its much more rigid and gets more airflow to keep it cool since the back is open now. My cheap original charger never provided an amp output, just voltage and I never paid close attention to it from the shunt while using the boat as I also had a draw on it from the stereo, chartplotter and VHF. The new charge controller shows output amps so I should have an anwer to you on that next time I take the boat out. My Yamaha cover blew up finally after a year or putting bandaids on it so I had to switch back to the Budge cover which covers the t-top. Yesterday when I installed it was cloudy and the cover was on the boat.

The black box and wires are part of the shunt to make it bluetooth, It was a cheap Amazon one so not very compact or integrated. It also has a display panel but couldnt find a good spot to mount it so I never did.

I only used the misters one time last year. I had to remove a few nozzles as I had to many and just making everything wet but it worked well that day.

 

[FSH 210 Sport]

The Start battery is limited to 1 amp max from the solar controller, the house battery will get full amps available when it charges.

The solar controller house battery is selectable between all types in the config but the start battery is locked at flooded lead acid.

The replaced flex panel is still going strong (I think, at least it outputing voltage). The original panel I had mounted to corrigated plastic which was bungied to my t-top. Im not sure if movement while driving on the freeway killed it or the Miami heat. The replacement I mounted to a PVC Pipe frame to its much more rigid and gets more airflow to keep it cool since the back is open now. My cheap original charger never provided an amp output, just voltage and I never paid close attention to it from the shunt while using the boat as I also had a draw on it from the stereo, chartplotter and VHF. The new charge controller shows output amps so I should have an anwer to you on that next time I take the boat out. My Yamaha cover blew up finally after a year or putting bandaids on it so I had to switch back to the Budge cover which covers the t-top. Yesterday when I installed it was cloudy and the cover was on the boat.

The black box and wires are part of the shunt to make it bluetooth, It was a cheap Amazon one so not very compact or integrated. It also has a display panel but couldnt find a good spot to mount it so I never did.

I only used the misters one time last year. I had to remove a few nozzles as I had to many and just making everything wet but it worked well that day.

Right on… thanks for the detailed reply! I hope the new charger works out great! I looked at the alternative hard panel one you listed, but I still like the flex panel you have better and the charge controller I like a lot more as well! I have often thought about putting a solar panel on my boat, mainly for the trolling motor battery bank for doing extended off grid adventures. In the end, I think I’m going to just get a little 1000 watt honda generator to take with if I go on a long Lake Powell / Lake Oahe / Lake Sakawea trip, the LiFePO4 house battery charges very fast from the boats two engines, something you are about to find out as well. But I may at some point put a solar panel on the hard top that I should have on for this next season so I really appreciate the work you have done with it and sharing the details of how it works.

Glad to hear you got the misters sorted out even if they do not get used very much. That is also great information as at some point I may go to Lake Powell or other very hot locals.. so it would be a great addition to keeping things cool, and you never know what guests may become regulars in the future that do not deal with the heat as well as I do.

Sorry to hear about the OEM cover… they are nice but seem a tad fragile when it comes to heavy sun exposure, I’m still using my Empire / Budge whole boat cover, and while it is a bit faded, especially over the rocket launchers, it still seems to be in decent shape although needing a good cleaning and water proofing treatment.

 

[lazergeek]

Sorry to hear about the OEM cover… they are nice but seem a tad fragile when it comes to heavy sun exposure, I’m still using my Empire / Budge whole boat cover, and while it is a bit faded, especially over the rocket launchers, it still seems to be in decent shape although needing a good cleaning and water proofing treatment.

Its not that it failed without help. I clipped a fence post and tore it in early 2022. I fixed it myself and it was starting to come apart again. I Was taking the boat back to the Marina In Novermber after taking home for a good cleaning the blew out again half way back. I just threw away and broke out the Budge cover again for now. I told my wife she needs to get her Only fans page up so we can buy another one, lol.

 

[lazergeek]

Has the 100 watt flexible solar panel that was replaced under warranty continued to live on or did you have to go with the proposed rigid panel? How many amps do you see coming from this panel in full sun? The math says 6.94A @100%, but that’s not usually the case, I read a review on the 200W / 13.8A @100% renogy system and that guy reported 140W=70% output from his 200 watt system in full sun and said “that is what he expected” which is about 10% better than I thought it would be, so maybe 4.86A output from your 100 watt panel?

I finally got to take the boat out for the first time this year (Damn Florida winter waves and wind ) I checked the output of solar charger in full overhead sund and im only getting 2.5 amps output so the flex panel is barely doing is job. I guess I will upgrade it to a rigid panel sooner then later.

 

[FSH 210 Sport]

I finally got to take the boat out for the first time this year (Damn Florida winter waves and wind ) I checked the output of solar charger in full overhead sund and im only getting 2.5 amps output so the flex panel is barely doing is job. I guess I will upgrade it to a rigid panel sooner then later.

Dang that’s only 36%….