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Add an Amp to Stock Speakers?

MMWalton1119

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First Time posting but having been looking over the forums for weeks. The support you guys give actually helped me decide to purchase a gently used 2015 Yamaha 242 Limited S with 26 hours on it. The stereo is a let down for this boat and I'm wondering if just adding an Amp will do the trick (for now) until I can afford more. I have the Stock Polk speakers. Any suggestions I would really appreciate it? BTW my boat is having some work done by the dealer so I don't have it to check what the speaker ratings are on it.
 

Mainah

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:Welcome:

Congrats on the boat. Lots of posts on here with stereo upgrades. So many options I have to point to the search function amd faq.

The short version is yes amps help. Class D amps are best for a boat. Adding speakers higher up next to the driver and co pilot helps a bunch too. Don’t skimp on wire knuknoceptz flexs is the best and priced better than all others in that category of wire. Just don’t use cca wire or cheapo wiring kits.

Here is a link to the thread with my progression of audio upgrades and worth reading all three pages IMO but again there are plenty of others if you search.

Enjoy the boat and the site but be careful this site can be addictive.
 

Drift Away

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First Time posting but having been looking over the forums for weeks. The support you guys give actually helped me decide to purchase a gently used 2015 Yamaha 242 Limited S with 26 hours on it. The stereo is a let down for this boat and I'm wondering if just adding an Amp will do the trick (for now) until I can afford more. I have the Stock Polk speakers. Any suggestions I would really appreciate it? BTW my boat is having some work done by the dealer so I don't have it to check what the speaker ratings are on it.
The stock speakers in most of our boats are junk. Yours came with the Polk speakers? Some people love them..until they park next to some JL or wetsounds. Good sound aint cheap, cheap sound aint good. Got to pay to play.
 

Drift Away

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Then again the best stero is the one you can afford. There are some madmen on here with more money than brains Who have ridiculous stereos and shake the water. But if you're just looking for some sound, swap your speakers add a good amp and rock out. But be prepared it's more addictive than heroin.
 

MMWalton1119

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I here ya both. Like I said I just bought it along with Vortex Fins, Lateral thrusters, and a Lowrance... so money is kinda the issue right now. I did a search and man it makes my brain spin with all the different options but I didn't find anything about stock Polk Speakers and new Amp. I'll definitely upgrade the speakers later that's why I was thinking an Amp for now. Any suggestions for Amps 2x 4channels or 1 decent 8 channel and will the Polks be able to handle an Amp?
 

Drift Away

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I here ya both. Like I said I just bought it along with Vortex Fins, Lateral thrusters, and a Lowrance... so money is kinda the issue right now. I did a search and man it makes my brain spin with all the different options but I didn't find anything about stock Polk Speakers and new Amp. I'll definitely upgrade the speakers later that's why I was thinking an Amp for now. Any suggestions for Amps 2x 4channels or 1 decent 8 channel and will the Polks be able to handle an Amp?
I think @swatski or @Julian have polks and an amp to them. I might be wrong
 

swatski

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I love Polk DB651 speakers, they are not the loudest but are very musical/they are not sounding harsh or shrill as many marine speaker can. They do need to be powered by an amp.

Several members including myslef have had very good luck with Clarion XC1410 amps, those are about as simple as it gets, and are very robust. One of those will power 4 DBs (2 pairs) extremely well.

I have used 4 or 5 of those over the last few years, never any issues. A Xc1410 plus 4 DB651s is a perfect combo - I for the money one can not do much better, I don't think.

--
 

Jgorm

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MMWalton1119

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I noticed the Rockville on Amazon and a lot of people are giving it good reviews. I am not a huge Audiophile but I want better sound with a small budget. I think I might just give the Rockville a try.
 

n_ikkon

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I love Polk DB651 speakers, they are not the loudest but are very musical/they are not sounding harsh or shrill as many marine speaker can. They do need to be powered by an amp.

Several members including myslef have had very good luck with Clarion XC1410 amps, those are about as simple as it gets, and are very robust. One of those will power 4 DBs (2 pairs) extremely well.

I have used 4 or 5 of those over the last few years, never any issues. A Xc1410 plus 4 DB651s is a perfect combo - I for the money one can not do much better, I don't think.

--
Hello.. I know this post is a little old, but I was wondering if you used the factory speaker wires to connect your amp, or if you used new wires to connect the speakers to the AMP.
 

JeffVans

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Hello.. I know this post is a little old, but I was wondering if you used the factory speaker wires to connect your amp, or if you used new wires to connect the speakers to the AMP.
When I switched out to JL speakers and amp, I ran all new knukonceptz marine speaker wire. I just ordered som more of it to hook up 2 subs soon. its not THAT expensive or hard to run, so i figured why not.
 

212s

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Hello.. I know this post is a little old, but I was wondering if you used the factory speaker wires to connect your amp, or if you used new wires to connect the speakers to the AMP.
While the factory wire is probably fine, the issue might be how the speakers are wired. For my boat with six speakers, the stock wiring wasn't suitable as the swim platform and cockpit speakers were wired in series cutting the output, and I didn't want the stern speakers on while cruising around since we can't hear them anyway. I also figured it would be a pain in the butt to figure out what wires went where since the head unit is in the stern - the stern speaker wires would probably be too short to run to my amp. So I ran new wires to the bow and cockpit together in parallel with a JL Audio MX500/4 (the 280/4 is more suited to the stock speakers) on channels 1+2 zone 1 to get them pumping, and the stern on channels 3+4 zone 2. This way I can turn zone 2 down and the swim platform is isolated. I bought the bigger 500w amp for about the same price as the 280 in the event I decide to upgrade to JL Audio speakers down the road. The 500 can pump over 130w/ch of clean power to the 2ohm load of the speakers in parallel, so lots of headroom to move up to better and louder speakers if needed some day. For now the stock speakers sound decent with the amp.
 

Julian

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FLJetBoater

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I upgraded all my stock Polk speakers to revo6 wetsounds. These speakers are rated at 125RMS. My stock head unit can only supply like 18W. However when I crank the volume they sound distorted especially with bass heavy songs. I haven’t added an amp yet but now am wondering what will happen when I do? Are they just distorting because the output is “dirty” at max volume from the head unit?
 

dan144k

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just do good speakers 1st. I installed in 2011
Polk Audio MM1 Series 6.5 Inch 300W Coaxial Marine Boat ATV Car Audio Speakers.
they made huge difference for us and have been pretty good with the bass.
Then do the amp later if needed. Everybody has different needs.
Even if I had an amp my wife would not let me play music much louder.
.....
That being said I have added swim deck speakers for when swimming and just use 2 switches to choose in boat or swim with like front left and rear right switching. has worked great.
....
FUTURE at some point I would like to add an 8 channel amp, selectable zones, and another pair of mid boat speaker. Don't really want tower speakers because we trailer everywhere.
Also maybe a bass cannon, but the speakers have always sounded good enough for us.
 

212s

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I upgraded all my stock Polk speakers to revo6 wetsounds. These speakers are rated at 125RMS. My stock head unit can only supply like 18W. However when I crank the volume they sound distorted especially with bass heavy songs. I haven’t added an amp yet but now am wondering what will happen when I do? Are they just distorting because the output is “dirty” at max volume from the head unit?
Yes, the stock head unit can only supply a few watts of clean power and then it runs out of steam and sends clipped and distorted sound to your speakers which can actually damage the tweeters. A 100w/ch amp will get you a lot more volume and better, cleaner sound at all volumes. But even with an amp, if you crank it too high, it'll clip and send distorted sound to your speakers. If you hear any distortion, turn it down a bit or risk blowing the tweeters in your speakers.
 

212s

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Many people confuse the meaning wattage ratings - they have little to do with volume or clarity - and marketing info does not make anything clearer for those who don't know the difference. No offense intended to anyone, but you need to know a few things about stereo equipment to make good buying choices, or ask someone who does, not a salesman who just wants to make a sale.
:)
Wattage is the clean power output rating of an amp, and a power input rating of a speaker. It's the capability limit of a device, not volume. Going beyond the capability rating of either amp or speaker will produce poor sound.

Just because a speaker is rated to handle 100w does not mean you can run a lower powered head unit or amp to full output and expect clean sound. Head units supply minimal power to speakers, they are intended to produce enough output for loud conversation levels, no more. If you want party level volume, you need a lot more power.

Wattage ratings exist so you can match speakers and amps together for the best output. But even the best amp in the world can and will be overdriven into clipping if you crank it too high. The general rule of thumb is to match wattage ratings or go a bit higher on the amp by up to 20% for headroom. A lot of people will buy nice speakers, and then run them with a crappy amp and wonder why it sounds like shit. You need quality amps to drive speakers properly, and you need quality speakers to make good sound, or you're just wasting time and money if you only do half.

I've been an audiophile since getting my first decent stereo system when I was 18, and I see rookie mistakes with amps, receivers, speakers, subs, and wire all the time. No sense spending $1000 on speakers and buying a $50 amp or head unit to drive them. Same goes for $1000 amp with $50 worth of speakers. Neither will sound its best.

And speaker wire is wire - there's nothing magical about over-priced wire - Monster brand is the biggest scam out there. Any decent 16-14awg copper wire will sound the same, period, ohm's law and electrical theory applies equally to all types of wire. The only exception for boating is possible corrosion issues with copper. Marine wire is tinned to resist corrosion.

I usually just tell people to follow the ratings and match them exactly to keep it simple and you'll have a decent sounding system. But no matter how much you spend, even $20,000 worth of gear, you can still crank it too high and get shitty sound.
 

FLJetBoater

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Many people confuse the meaning wattage ratings - they have little to do with volume or clarity - and marketing info does not make anything clearer for those who don't know the difference. No offense intended to anyone, but you need to know a few things about stereo equipment to make good buying choices, or ask someone who does, not a salesman who just wants to make a sale.
:)
Wattage is the clean power output rating of an amp, and a power input rating of a speaker. It's the capability limit of a device, not volume. Going beyond the capability rating of either amp or speaker will produce poor sound.

Just because a speaker is rated to handle 100w does not mean you can run a lower powered head unit or amp to full output and expect clean sound. Head units supply minimal power to speakers, they are intended to produce enough output for loud conversation levels, no more. If you want party level volume, you need a lot more power.

Wattage ratings exist so you can match speakers and amps together for the best output. But even the best amp in the world can and will be overdriven into clipping if you crank it too high. The general rule of thumb is to match wattage ratings or go a bit higher on the amp by up to 20% for headroom. A lot of people will buy nice speakers, and then run them with a crappy amp and wonder why it sounds like shit. You need quality amps to drive speakers properly, and you need quality speakers to make good sound, or you're just wasting time and money if you only do half.

I've been an audiophile since getting my first decent stereo system when I was 18, and I see rookie mistakes with amps, receivers, speakers, subs, and wire all the time. No sense spending $1000 on speakers and buying a $50 amp or head unit to drive them. Same goes for $1000 amp with $50 worth of speakers. Neither will sound its best.

And speaker wire is wire - there's nothing magical about over-priced wire - Monster brand is the biggest scam out there. Any decent 16-14awg copper wire will sound the same, period, ohm's law and electrical theory applies equally to all types of wire. The only exception for boating is possible corrosion issues with copper. Marine wire is tinned to resist corrosion.

I usually just tell people to follow the ratings and match them exactly to keep it simple and you'll have a decent sounding system. But no matter how much you spend, even $20,000 worth of gear, you can still crank it too high and get shitty sound.
Thanks for the insight. I think I've got everything spec'ed out properly, it's just coming in over a month or so. Speakers are in, but without amp (still a huge upgrade over stock). Also seeing my head unit "resetting" (power goes off, then comes back on immediately) if I turn the volume up too loud. The amp I have coming will be 200W RMS @ 4ohms that matches perfectly to 2 REVO6's in parallel which are rated 100W and they're 8 ohm speakers.

I planned to run new wire just because I wanted the 6 strand wetwire that has the RGB and speakers wires together and I'm keeping my amp in the battery compartment so I don't have to run 0AWG wire from there to the helm and back.
 

212s

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Thanks for the insight. I think I've got everything spec'ed out properly, it's just coming in over a month or so. Speakers are in, but without amp (still a huge upgrade over stock). Also seeing my head unit "resetting" (power goes off, then comes back on immediately) if I turn the volume up too loud. The amp I have coming will be 200W RMS @ 4ohms that matches perfectly to 2 REVO6's in parallel which are rated 100W and they're 8 ohm speakers.
Wait, aren't WetSounds all 4 ohm? If so, make sure your amp can handle 2 ohm loads as 2 in parallel will drop the impedance to 2 ohms.
 
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