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Air Panel - Installing tube inflator in the engine compartment

Bruce

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Yamaha
Year
2007
Boat Model
SX
Boat Length
23
Last month I got around to completing a project I had been planning for a long time. I installed my tube pump into the engine compartment with a pass through fitting and remote power switch. Now when we inflate or deflate things we simply get out a hose and press a button. No more issues with power cords, flimsy factory hoses or dropping the pump in the water.

IMG_5748.jpg

I used an Airhead High Pressure 12V Air Pump that I have owned since 2012, an Aqua Joe AJPGH50-DWS 5/8 kink free water hose, a waterproof power switch and a waterproof 60 amp relay. I designed and 3D printed the rest.

This is the panel and hose end fittings. Both the panel sockets and the hose fittings are compatible with the Airhead components. I used a black TPU (rubberish) seal for the hose fitting that will connect to the panel.
IMG_6495.jpg


The fitting is installed through two 1 1/4" and one 5/8" inch holes. The end hose fittings are a tight slip fit. I added a little E6000 to make that connection semipermanent. I also used E6000 to seal the drilled surfaces and the panel to the hull. Normally I would use 4200 or a silicone product but I had E6000 ready.

IMG_5357.jpg

I added hose end fittings and a relay housing to the pump. I used a TPU seal on the deflate side of the pump. The relay housing is spliced into the pump's power cord and I leave the power switch on. The four conductor cable going to the switch on the panel activates the relay turning the pump on and off. Later I plan to add the same relay and switch combination to my swim deck shower.


IMG_5370.jpg

The pump is mounted to the tray at the side of the engines. I used E6000 to secure the hoses and the fitting to the inflate side.

IMG_5372.jpg


This is new hose. Much nicer than the original.

IMG_5412.jpg

The hose end fittings mate with the Airhead tube adaptors they are attached to a piece of TPU replacing the factory string. That TPU cable is secured to the hose with a velcro cable tie.

IMG_5411.jpg

In this video you can see how the panel, switch and fittings work. The panel has a magnetic closure that can be seen at the end. I recorded the video just after installing and one of the magnets needed glue at that time. I also have revised the panel to have adhesive suck and blow labels instead of printed labels.


We have been enjoying this mod for about a month. Perhaps not as useful as the refrigerator but certainly something that will be on all of our future boats.

I have made six additional installation kits. If you are interested they are available at https://jetboaters.net/threads/air-panel-kit.35054/

If you would like to make a longer hose this is could be of interest https://jetboaters.net/threads/air-panel-hose-end-fittings-20.35055/

If you are interested in the relay to control something else this is the link https://jetboaters.net/threads/water-proof-relay-and-switch-40.35056/
 

Wake_Dude

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2019
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AR195
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Super cool mod! Nice work!
 

Bruce

Jetboaters Fleet Admiral 1*
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Year
2007
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Boat Length
23
Super cool mod! Nice work!
Thanks, we are really enjoying it.

The kids have fun flipping the lid open and closed letting the magnets snap it closed.
 

Wake_Dude

Jet Boat Addict
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Thanks, we are really enjoying it.

The kids have fun flipping the lid open and closed letting the magnets snap it closed.
I can see how your setup would eliminate a ton of hassle! Loving this idea!

If you ever decide to mass market this device, I am your machinist. That thing would be amazing in a manufactured (kit form) either 5052 or 6061 w/a bright dip/clear anodize. Would match the chromed pot metal on all the other accessories these boats come with. LOL (with better corrosion resistance).
 

FSH 210 Sport

Jetboaters Admiral
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Location
Tranquility Base
Boat Make
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Year
2020
Boat Model
FSH Sport
Boat Length
21
Last month I got around to completing a project I had been planning for a long time. I installed my tube pump into the engine compartment with a pass through fitting and remote power switch. Now when we inflate or deflate things we simply get out a hose and press a button. No more issues with power cords, flimsy factory hoses or dropping the pump in the water.

View attachment 160853

I used an Airhead High Pressure 12V Air Pump that I have owned since 2012, an Aqua Joe AJPGH50-DWS 5/8 kink free water hose, a waterproof power switch and a waterproof 60 amp relay. I designed and 3D printed the rest.

This is the panel and hose end fittings. Both the panel sockets and the hose fittings are compatible with the Airhead components. I used a black TPU (rubberish) seal for the hose fitting that will connect to the panel.
View attachment 160860


The fitting is installed through two 1 1/4" and one 5/8" inch holes. The end hose fittings are a tight slip fit. I added a little E6000 to make that connection semipermanent. I also used E6000 to seal the drilled surfaces and the panel to the hull. Normally I would use 4200 or a silicone product but I had E6000 ready.

View attachment 160861

I added hose end fittings and a relay housing to the pump. I used a TPU seal on the deflate side of the pump. The relay housing is spliced into the pump's power cord and I leave the power switch on. The four conductor cable going to the switch on the panel activates the relay turning the pump on and off. Later I plan to add the same relay and switch combination to my swim deck shower.


View attachment 160862

The pump is mounted to the tray at the side of the engines. I used E6000 to secure the hoses and the fitting to the inflate side.

View attachment 160863


This is new hose. Much nicer than the original.

View attachment 160865

The hose end fittings mate with the Airhead tube adaptors they are attached to a piece of TPU replacing the factory string. That TPU cable is secured to the hose with a velcro cable tie.

View attachment 160866

In this video you can see how the panel, switch and fittings work. The panel has a magnetic closure that can be seen at the end. I recorded the video just after installing and one of the magnets needed glue at that time. I also have revised the panel to have adhesive suck and blow labels instead of printed labels.


We have been enjoying this mod for about a month. Perhaps not as useful as the refrigerator but certainly something that will be on all of our future boats.

I have made six additional installation kits. If you are interested they are available at https://jetboaters.net/threads/air-panel-kit.35054/

If you would like to make a longer hose this is could be of interest https://jetboaters.net/threads/air-panel-hose-end-fittings-20.35055/

If you are interested in the relay to control something else this is the link https://jetboaters.net/threads/water-proof-relay-and-switch-40.35056/
Very cool!!!! Very clean set up!
 

Bruce

Jetboaters Fleet Admiral 1*
Staff member
Administrator
Messages
13,329
Reaction score
13,426
Points
857
Location
Royal, AR
Boat Make
Yamaha
Year
2007
Boat Model
SX
Boat Length
23
I can see how your setup would eliminate a ton of hassle! Loving this idea!

If you ever decide to mass market this device, I am your machinist. That thing would be amazing in a manufactured (kit form) either 5052 or 6061 w/a bright dip/clear anodize. Would match the chromed pot metal on all the other accessories these boats come with. LOL (with better corrosion resistance).
From a longevity perspective I believe the PETG plastic will hold up quite well but the metal would look nice.

I will keep you in mind. I have some non boating projects that will need metal machined. @justason kindly gave me an old milling machine that I need to find time to get running.
 

Wake_Dude

Jet Boat Addict
Messages
139
Reaction score
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Points
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Boat Make
Yamaha
Year
2019
Boat Model
AR195
Boat Length
19
From a longevity perspective I believe the PETG plastic will hold up quite well but the metal would look nice.

I will keep you in mind. I have some non boating projects that will need metal machined. @justason kindly gave me an old milling machine that I need to find time to get running.
Sounds good man. Also, if you need help getting the mill running, just holler at me. Anything machining related, I'm willing to help!
 

jetboater4life

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Year
2010
Boat Model
X
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21
Anyone have any concerns about the location "circled in red" of where I will mount this device on my boat?
My thoughts are:
1) It's easy to access the underside.
2) It's not on a surface that someone would step on.
3) It's far enough away from the transom that it wouldn't get in the way of a big tube or air mattresses.
4) It's relatively close to where the pump will be mounted and the battery.

1659551543234.png
 

Bruce

Jetboaters Fleet Admiral 1*
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Anyone have any concerns about the location "circled in red" of where I will mount this device on my boat?
Looks good to me. Only concern would be feet getting caught on the cover when stepping in or out.

If you placed it opposite of the stereo control you might be able to access it from the water.
 

jetboater4life

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Yea I think it is low profile enough and making sure I mount it higher up I don't think there will be any stubbed toes. Or I could mount it on the vertical service about 6inches higher up. I don't think anyone would want to step there. Thanks.
 

Yoda715

Active Member
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Boat Make
Yamaha
Year
2016
Boat Model
242X E-Series
Boat Length
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Anyone have any concerns about the location "circled in red" of where I will mount this device on my boat?
My thoughts are:
1) It's easy to access the underside.
2) It's not on a surface that someone would step on.
3) It's far enough away from the transom that it wouldn't get in the way of a big tube or air mattresses.
4) It's relatively close to where the pump will be mounted and the battery.
I thought about a similar location for mine, but I decided to do on the flatter surface on the starboard side (shown below), just above the rear seats on the swimming platform. Perhaps you could do something similar? I'd be worried about some one accidentally hitting it in your proposed area because that's the designated travel path.

20220813_131211.jpg
 
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