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Another Stereo upgrade and dual battery upgrade (w/ pics)

RightStuff

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So I finally got most of the install for these projects done. Really happy the way this sounds over the stock speakers, can't wait to test it on the water (come on Mother Nature!). I have some audio tweaking to still do to make it sound as good as it can, but right off the bat it sounds really nice, even without a sub. I might add one later, but my main goal was to hear the music when underway.

So here's a list of components that I installed and most of the things I needed to actually do the install. Long post, so here it goes!
  • 6 - Polk MM651UM speakers
  • 1 - MB Quart na540.6 - 6 Channel amp
  • 1 - Kicker single AFS Fuse holder w/ AFS fuse
  • 1- Blue Seas 120A Add-A-Battery kit - # 7650
  • 2 - Blue Seas Common 150A busbar - # 2300
  • 1 - Blue Seas Common 150A busbar - # 2303
  • 1- Group 24 battery
  • 2 - battery boxes
Install Supplies:
  • Battery cables - 4 awg Royal/EXCELENE welding wire from wireandsupply.com, approx. 30 ft of each black and red (60ft total)
  • Battery lugs - 4 awg size, I needed some with 1/4 hole, some with 3/8
  • 3 - 6ft RCA cables from MyCableMart.com (local company for me, so no delivery charge)
  • 30ft (approx.) 14 awg Speaker wire
  • 25 ft - wire loom (picked up at auto parts store)
  • 5 pack of 1" conduit/pipe anchors
  • Dremel 678-01 circle cutter w/ side cutting blade
  • Misc. amounts/sizes of stainless steel screws
  • Misc. wire butt connectors
  • Misc. sizes of heat shrink tubes
  • A bunch of zip ties
  • Misc. wood pieces/Carpet/Staples/3M 5200 adhesive/Liquid Nails adhesive (amp board)
I started this off by upgrading the battery switch and adding the second battery. I wanted to get that working first before diving into the stereo upgrade. I took a bit to plot this step out because I wanted to get the right amount of wire ordered. I relocated the original and additional battery to the front of the rear port compartment. Doing so really opened up the compartment for storage but still made for easy access to the batteries. One thing to remember… Hook up all the wires that you initially took off the old switch (duh…)! After hooking it up I forgot the house power wire (for basically all the helm switches) because I tucked it back behind somewhere out of the way, so nothing worked, pretty frantic couple minutes until I found it again.

Once that was complete I started on the speakers. The 4 in the stock location were just simple drop ins, couldn't have been easier (unscrew and throw stock ones, connect and install Polks). The other 2 I added mid-cabin involved a bit more 'effort'. I used the Dremel to cut the hole needed. I went thru two Dremel side cutting blades for this step. The port side is easy to look behind thru the storage compartment, the starboard side under the throttles is a bit more difficult. There are wires/cables running behind there, so there were a few things I had to tie up and out of the way to make sure I didn’t hit while cutting. It’s also not very easy to access, so yeah… good luck. Ran the port side wires thru the back side of the storage closet and under thru the floor locker and back up the ‘tunnel’ into the helm compartment (right side on the bottom looking in that area). Starboard side is right there, so easy to pull that over to the rest of the wires for the stereo and head unit.

The helm wire harness is just a mess and it’s hard to work in that area. Once you find the wires for the 4 speakers and the remote wire from the head unit’s harness just cut them. I labeled mine for reference later. Using some shorter pieces of speaker wire, I simply butt connected them to the ones coming off the boat’s wire that lead back to the speakers, and one for the remote wire. Connected those to the amp’s channel inputs and then connected the remote wire so it turns on with the head unit. Then connected the RCA cables to the line out RCAs that were hanging back there, I also needed to turn on the fader setting on the Clarion, it’s buried in the settings. I also needed to tweak some of the options and make sure the balance and fade worked correctly, had to move some RCAs around to make that happen.

I mounted my amp board to the right side wall of the helm compartment. I used Liquid Nails construction adhesive to mount 2 – 1x4 strips (about 2’ long), reversed some clamps to apply pressure while the glue cured. Also cut, painted and carpeted a 1x10 board to mount the amp and busbars to. I screwed that board (with the busbars attached) to the strips that I glued to the wall and screwed the amp to it last. I had hoped to mount the amp to the board and then have everything mounted before attaching it. But I frankly didn’t layout the strips that I glued to the wall that well for screwing in after the amp was mounted, so really didn’t have a spot to screw to the strips with it all in place. So that’s one thing I would try to do slightly differently, it would have been easier to work with outside the compartment and on the work bench. There are a couple options to go with in that cabinet so lay this out as best you can, that right wall seemed to be the easiest for me to keep it off the floor.

I pulled power and ground wires for the helm and attached that to the busbars on the amp board. I used the tunnel that the steering cables (and other wires) go thru. I used the wire loom to cover the entire length of the wires to protect it from rubbing. I zip tied that wire along the way back under the floor hatch on the top side of the gas tank. It was really easy to pull the wire thru and to the back, plenty of room to wrap the wire and pull it all together in one shot.

Anyway, I hope this helps someone plan their own upgrade at some point in the future. I can answer any questions or take more pics if anyone needs them. It’s all pretty fresh in my mind right now…

Here are the pics, sorry I didn't take any during install these are all more after I was finished.

1.jpg 2.jpg 3.jpg 4.jpg 5.jpg
 

OperationROL

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Looks great! I am sure it will sound great on the water.
 

Ronnie

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Excellent work and write up. Thanks for sharing.

I did a big install in my first yamaha jet boat and recently added an amp and a few other things to my current yamaha jet boat so I can really appreciate how difficult it is to to make the concept of a killer stereo system and dual batteries a reality. Lots of contorting, sometimes in a hot compartment with no shortage of bare fiberglass to really make the experience painfully memorable.

Again, nice all the way around.

Are you ready to cut a big hole in the boat for a subwoofer and / or vent? Or is that on another year's mod list?
 

RightStuff

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I hate to admit it, but since you brought up contorting and hot compartments I feel like I need to now... I almost got stuck in the boat last night because of the amp.

I knew going in it would be tough to get out, but I just couldn't get good leverage to screw in the bottom screws on the amp. So I did what I had to do and bent over backwards and squeezed into the helm compartment on my back (I have no business doing this because I'm not what I would call 'small'). It was great while was in there, had tons of room to do what I needed, but going back out was painful to say the least. :eek: Leg cramps, heart racing a bit, a few of scratches, and few bruises, but I finally got back out of the hole (luckily no fiberglass slivers this time). Afterwards my wife was mad that I didn't tell her that I was doing it, she wanted a picture... :sour:

I think my next step is speakers behind the swim platform seat backs, I am hoping I can do 6x9s to provide a bit more bass overall. But for now I'm really happy with the results. I think if/when I do a sub I don't know that I will put it in the open, maybe try putting it in a compartment somewhere. I don't know, have to do some research on that before I dive in. Just happy to be setup to add amps/etc easier now with power up at the helm.
 

kthrash

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I hate to admit it, but since you brought up contorting and hot compartments I feel like I need to now... I almost got stuck in the boat last night because of the amp.

I knew going in it would be tough to get out, but I just couldn't get good leverage to screw in the bottom screws on the amp. So I did what I had to do and bent over backwards and squeezed into the helm compartment on my back (I have no business doing this because I'm not what I would call 'small'). It was great while was in there, had tons of room to do what I needed, but going back out was painful to say the least. :eek: Leg cramps, heart racing a bit, a few of scratches, and few bruises, but I finally got back out of the hole (luckily no fiberglass slivers this time). Afterwards my wife was mad that I didn't tell her that I was doing it, she wanted a picture... :sour:

I think my next step is speakers behind the swim platform seat backs, I am hoping I can do 6x9s to provide a bit more bass overall. But for now I'm really happy with the results. I think if/when I do a sub I don't know that I will put it in the open, maybe try putting it in a compartment somewhere. I don't know, have to do some research on that before I dive in. Just happy to be setup to add amps/etc easier now with power up at the helm.
I climed in both rear compartments yesterday to tie up some wire and remove the ballast bags to clean them... I also climed in the front one to adjust the amps and rewire some stuff. I've gotten pretty good and getting in and out..
 

mraz72

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did you bolt the battery boxes to the boat?
 

RightStuff

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Not really... The boxes I have came with a clip that screwed down and holds a strap that goes around the box. You can see the orange/black strap in the first pic.
 

fonzarelly

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Nice upgrade bro . so I do have a ? Because based off what I see I did the exact same upgrade and I noticed u used the bluesea add a battery and charging relay #7505 120a . so my ? Is do u have single or twin motors in your jet boat because I have a 2005 ar230 with twin motors and wanted to use the 7505 120a relay also until the guy at west marine told me to get the blue sea m- Acr 7601 which is only 67a . now the reason why after reading both relays the 7505 is for a single alternator setup but Yamaha jet boats are not alternator style and the 7601 is for out board motors and inboard jet boat motors . so all of this to say how is that 7505 relay performing for u because if its doing its job I prefer the 7505 instead for more charging amps . I mean it does charge but its not charging at 13.5 I'm only getting 12.20 or a Lil bit more . so please let me know ASAP thanks Screenshot_2016-06-23-10-43-08.png
 

RightStuff

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I have a twin engine (AR210).

I mostly made the choice of ACRs based on other installs posted here and other research, I'm no electrical engineer but it is working for me in my setup. Maybe someone else can chime in with more details about why would be better that the other. Maybe both would work just fine due to how our boats charge batteries when the engine are running? Maybe @txav8r can help here, I followed the diagrams he has drawn and posted.
 

0627Devildog

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Nice upgrade bro . so I do have a ? Because based off what I see I did the exact same upgrade and I noticed u used the bluesea add a battery and charging relay #7505 120a . so my ? Is do u have single or twin motors in your jet boat because I have a 2005 ar230 with twin motors and wanted to use the 7505 120a relay also until the guy at west marine told me to get the blue sea m- Acr 7601 which is only 67a . now the reason why after reading both relays the 7505 is for a single alternator setup but Yamaha jet boats are not alternator style and the 7601 is for out board motors and inboard jet boat motors . so all of this to say how is that 7505 relay performing for u because if its doing its job I prefer the 7505 instead for more charging amps . I mean it does charge but its not charging at 13.5 I'm only getting 12.20 or a Lil bit more . so please let me know ASAP thanks View attachment 40034
@fonzarelly - Welcome aboard.

@ChargerGuy - any thoughts on this one?
 

Island Jay

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Would love to, but I actually do now have much knowledge on ACR's.
 

Mainah

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65 amp = fine without amps but risky with amps depending on what they plus everything else draws for current. 120 amp= safe bet. The stock dvsr in the 24' 2015+ boats is 140 amp. Even though the stators only put out about 10 amps each you also have to consider the draw side of the equation as once the relay closes the circuit between the batteries.
 

fonzarelly

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Thanks for the reply so I am running 2 amps for my stereo system plus my accessories like navigation/ fishfinder multiple cigarette lighter outlets for guest . I'm running dual interstate batteries and like I said the relay does work but I definitely will feel more comfortable with 120 amps if its worth having and works fine with stators . so would u switch to the 120 amp relay in this situation ?
 

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@fonzarelly I would switch before the next time I take out the boat if it were me. Think of that relay as a 65 amp fuse that does not know how to safely blow. Your load probally is not a constant 65 amps but there certainly are scenarios with that gear where it would be over. You want fuses/breakers to be the weakest link in any system rather than relays, switches, etc.

The biggest risk for that relay is the pin/spring inside the coil of the relay overheating and deforming causing it to connect with the coil and then the coil melting which would melt the casing ... You get the picture from there. More than likey you would catch this before it turned worse than that. An alternative would be to wire in a 60 amp fuse on the load side real close to the relay but you may end up replacing a few fuses each season that way.

As far as working, yes a 120 amp relay will work just fine with stators. The rating is for the load once the relay closes the circuit. Very very little current is used to engergize the coil inside of the relay that makes the relay close the circuit.

Good luck.
 

fonzarelly

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OK doing this today . thanks a lot for the advice really appreciate it
 

fonzarelly

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Update : so I switched to the 120 relay works absolutely better way more charging amps . I'm very happy and comfortable now thanks fellas
 

Attachments

Trepin2002

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So I finally got most of the install for these projects done. Really happy the way this sounds over the stock speakers, can't wait to test it on the water (come on Mother Nature!). I have some audio tweaking to still do to make it sound as good as it can, but right off the bat it sounds really nice, even without a sub. I might add one later, but my main goal was to hear the music when underway.

So here's a list of components that I installed and most of the things I needed to actually do the install. Long post, so here it goes!
  • 6 - Polk MM651UM speakers
  • 1 - MB Quart na540.6 - 6 Channel amp
  • 1 - Kicker single AFS Fuse holder w/ AFS fuse
  • 1- Blue Seas 120A Add-A-Battery kit - # 7650
  • 2 - Blue Seas Common 150A busbar - # 2300
  • 1 - Blue Seas Common 150A busbar - # 2303
  • 1- Group 24 battery
  • 2 - battery boxes
Install Supplies:
  • Battery cables - 4 awg Royal/EXCELENE welding wire from wireandsupply.com, approx. 30 ft of each black and red (60ft total)
  • Battery lugs - 4 awg size, I needed some with 1/4 hole, some with 3/8
  • 3 - 6ft RCA cables from MyCableMart.com (local company for me, so no delivery charge)
  • 30ft (approx.) 14 awg Speaker wire
  • 25 ft - wire loom (picked up at auto parts store)
  • 5 pack of 1" conduit/pipe anchors
  • Dremel 678-01 circle cutter w/ side cutting blade
  • Misc. amounts/sizes of stainless steel screws
  • Misc. wire butt connectors
  • Misc. sizes of heat shrink tubes
  • A bunch of zip ties
  • Misc. wood pieces/Carpet/Staples/3M 5200 adhesive/Liquid Nails adhesive (amp board)
I started this off by upgrading the battery switch and adding the second battery. I wanted to get that working first before diving into the stereo upgrade. I took a bit to plot this step out because I wanted to get the right amount of wire ordered. I relocated the original and additional battery to the front of the rear port compartment. Doing so really opened up the compartment for storage but still made for easy access to the batteries. One thing to remember… Hook up all the wires that you initially took off the old switch (duh…)! After hooking it up I forgot the house power wire (for basically all the helm switches) because I tucked it back behind somewhere out of the way, so nothing worked, pretty frantic couple minutes until I found it again.

Once that was complete I started on the speakers. The 4 in the stock location were just simple drop ins, couldn't have been easier (unscrew and throw stock ones, connect and install Polks). The other 2 I added mid-cabin involved a bit more 'effort'. I used the Dremel to cut the hole needed. I went thru two Dremel side cutting blades for this step. The port side is easy to look behind thru the storage compartment, the starboard side under the throttles is a bit more difficult. There are wires/cables running behind there, so there were a few things I had to tie up and out of the way to make sure I didn’t hit while cutting. It’s also not very easy to access, so yeah… good luck. Ran the port side wires thru the back side of the storage closet and under thru the floor locker and back up the ‘tunnel’ into the helm compartment (right side on the bottom looking in that area). Starboard side is right there, so easy to pull that over to the rest of the wires for the stereo and head unit.

The helm wire harness is just a mess and it’s hard to work in that area. Once you find the wires for the 4 speakers and the remote wire from the head unit’s harness just cut them. I labeled mine for reference later. Using some shorter pieces of speaker wire, I simply butt connected them to the ones coming off the boat’s wire that lead back to the speakers, and one for the remote wire. Connected those to the amp’s channel inputs and then connected the remote wire so it turns on with the head unit. Then connected the RCA cables to the line out RCAs that were hanging back there, I also needed to turn on the fader setting on the Clarion, it’s buried in the settings. I also needed to tweak some of the options and make sure the balance and fade worked correctly, had to move some RCAs around to make that happen.

I mounted my amp board to the right side wall of the helm compartment. I used Liquid Nails construction adhesive to mount 2 – 1x4 strips (about 2’ long), reversed some clamps to apply pressure while the glue cured. Also cut, painted and carpeted a 1x10 board to mount the amp and busbars to. I screwed that board (with the busbars attached) to the strips that I glued to the wall and screwed the amp to it last. I had hoped to mount the amp to the board and then have everything mounted before attaching it. But I frankly didn’t layout the strips that I glued to the wall that well for screwing in after the amp was mounted, so really didn’t have a spot to screw to the strips with it all in place. So that’s one thing I would try to do slightly differently, it would have been easier to work with outside the compartment and on the work bench. There are a couple options to go with in that cabinet so lay this out as best you can, that right wall seemed to be the easiest for me to keep it off the floor.

I pulled power and ground wires for the helm and attached that to the busbars on the amp board. I used the tunnel that the steering cables (and other wires) go thru. I used the wire loom to cover the entire length of the wires to protect it from rubbing. I zip tied that wire along the way back under the floor hatch on the top side of the gas tank. It was really easy to pull the wire thru and to the back, plenty of room to wrap the wire and pull it all together in one shot.

Anyway, I hope this helps someone plan their own upgrade at some point in the future. I can answer any questions or take more pics if anyone needs them. It’s all pretty fresh in my mind right now…

Here are the pics, sorry I didn't take any during install these are all more after I was finished.

View attachment 20666 View attachment 20667 View attachment 20668 View attachment 20669 View attachment 20670
Nice setup how long does it play without the engines running?
 

fonzarelly

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Nice setup how long does it play without the engines running?
Well me personally I start my morning off fishing for about 5 hrs straight with all of my accessories on and my digital on dash volt meter keeps me informed where I'm sitting at but whenever I drop to 11.5 volts I just crank the boat up and let it run for about 10 -20 mins and boom I'm right back to 12.65 especially if u plan on cranking a big stereo system all day
 

Kaschool

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Hi Bringing back an old thread here. I am also looking at the add-a-battery solution but still not sure about the 65a vs 120a :
  1. I think the 65a vs 120a is just related to how much the alternator puts out - if your alternator or equivalent only puts out 65amps or less then you only need the 65a version.... is that right or am I wrong?
  2. I can’t seem to find the kit anymore for 120amp that includes the ACR, switch and charger - did they get rid of that?
  3. I have a 2020 AR210 and I’m thinking that the 65a mini will be sufficient since our alternators or stators are absolutely tiny.
  4. They (blue seas) seems to have a new charging device coming out later this year listed on their website - any thoughts on this? There’s a 10 and 20amp version
  5. I basically want to add a second battery in my boat and looking for the simplest method to do this whilst having some isolation and simple charging method
Thnx

rich.
 
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