AquaTraction Installed

[FSH Resonders]

Well got the deck done, Aquatraction mats.

 

[Tailwaters]

Looks great. Was it less expensive than the Seadek at Jetboatpiolts?

 

[suke]

Wow! Those look incredible.

 

[Liveto99]

looks great! like the 124 the old lady has one great little car. One reason I ordered the seadek was for engine noise I think you should ask for the piece under the leaning post. I put a second fire extinguisher on board, don't want to use the $200 one on someone else boat. I would but would prefer not to. $Cost compared to Seadek? Seadek is about $1500 with the discount now for the cockpit and swim platform. I think the rails down the side are great to have for boarding but are extra. That is just me. (Or anyone who has them) Love the clean look without all the lines.

 

[FSH Resonders]

Looks great. Was it less expensive than the Seadek at Jetboatpiolts?

Yes, but the bigger reason I went with AquaTraction, is I performed climate tests at my lab, it lasts longer, and they have better customer service they SeaDeck.

 

[Liveto99]

Climate test? So what did you test and how? When you get time, no rush.Just curious.

 

[FSH Resonders]

looks great! like the 124 the old lady has one great little car. One reason I ordered the seadek was for engine noise I think you should ask for the piece under the leaning post. I put a second fire extinguisher on board, don't want to use the $200 one on someone else boat. I would but would prefer not to. $Cost compared to Seadek? Seadek is about $1500 with the discount now for the cockpit and swand a platform. I think the rails down the side are great to have for boarding but are extra. That is just me. (Or anyone who has them) Love the clean look without all the lines.

That 124 is running 30lbs of boost, she drives it, I am not allowed.

The aquatraction mat held up better the Marinemat and SeaDeck during enviromental laboratory tests I ran, and was cheaper installed.

I go out every other day and a 12V camping refrigerator/freezer takes the place of the Coleman (got tired of making and or buying ice)

The Halatron fire extinguisher is for me only, (retired firefighter) I have 2 other extinguishers on board one dry chem and one high pressure AFFF foam. And believe me, no one will try to "borrow" off my boat.

 

[FSH Resonders]

Climate test? So what did you test and how? When you get time, no rush.Just curious.

I currently manage a laboratory that conducts dynamic/climatic and thermal tests. I ran the mats thu UV A-C, waterproofness, temperature variation (-25 to +70 deg C) and abbrasive test. So I could determine for my needs which survived best.

 

[Liveto99]

I like to boat at 22 to 32 C range. I assume in 5 years I’ll replace it all then I’ll look at a whole new system. It is already a mix from the Marinemat that came with the boat and the Seadek that I put on the rails first.

 

[Grassman]

That looks awesome and my seadek is already failing. Did they save the template? Looks like I'll be replacing with that

 

[Beachbummer]

Thread Hijack! Nice mat!!!

@FSH Resonders Could you tell me your thoughts on what fire extinguisher we should have on board considering storage and cost restrictions (Meaning room on the boat is not unlimited and we'd rather not spend over $400? for example?) Thanks!

 

[swatski]

Total hijack, sorry! @Beachbummer I bookmarked some @haknslash posts on fire extinguishers, as I had no idea what was what...

For our boats you do not want to use ABC dry chemical. It has mono ammonium phosphate which is corrosive. The fine dust (it's more fine than baby powder) will kill electronics, wiring and corrode some untreated metals. There's not as much of a need to have an A class rating for Combustsble Rubbish on a boat than other classes, so stick to B (flammable liquids) and C (electrical fire) class rated extinguishers. Anything else I'd use a bucket of water. For a dry chemical go with a Sodium Bicarbonate extinguisher, which we refer to as "Regular Dry Chemical". It is not corrosive, so if you do put out the fire at least you won't make the situation worse by having your electronics and everything else that was contacted by the agent begin to corrode.

For a clean agent (no chemical residue to cleanup) the best units to fight a fire are Halon 1211 but they are super expensive because of the EPA. It's all the airline and aircraft industry use because it doesn't corrode and it's the best agent to fight a fire. A much cheaper alternative is CO2. It doesn't have the same knock down power as Halon (nothing does) but it's certainly a good agent for class B and C fires. This would be the extinguisher you would use for your engine or fuel compartments as well as any electrical fires where you don't want to clean up a ton of dry chemical residue.

I keep two extinguishers on my boat. I carry a 5 lb CO2 (model 322) extinguisher and a 5 lb Regular dry chemical (model B409T) extinguisher. Both are Class B:C rated. I'm not concerned with Class A fires because I'd just use the lake water to put it out if needed for a rubish fire.

I work in the Product Design Engineering department so I can't really help too much with sales. We don't sell directly to the public but rather through our distribution network, however you can find our products on Amazon which may be cheaper than I could get it for you + shipped costs. I would just have to see but I can certainly ask for you tomorrow morning with the sales manager to see if she could help me out for you.

Here is our product catalog which has all the information you would be looking for in shopping for the right extinguisher http://amerex-fire.com/upl/downloads/library/product-catalog.pdf. Just don't use an ABC dry chemical. Stick with Sodium Bicarbonate for a dry chemical unit. You'll want to buy a unit that has a "T' at the end of the model number which mean it comes with a vehicle bracket that is US Coast Guard approved. The CO2 units come with a wall bracket only, so for that one I just have it stuffed against my storage wall so it doesn't roll around and is easily accessible when/if needed.

So a few people have asked for a thread containing information about fire extinguishers in @FloJet's recent close call wiring thread and I figured I would add some videos and try to answer your questions about fire extinguishers. Thankfully there are a lot of videos and resources out there that will save me from having to type a wall of text for you to read . A disclaimer about myself, I work for Amerex Corporation as a Product Design Engineer and CAD Manager (among a ton of other things really but that's my shorthand title lol). I have been with the company going on 13 years now. During that time I have learned quite a lot about the fire protection and manufacturing industries. It's ironic I work in this field as I was a little pyromaniac as a child and teenager .

That being said a lot of what I'm going to post is going to center around our product as that is what I personally know best above any other extinguisher manufacturer. However a lot fo what is shown or posted generally relates to other quality extinguishers in the industry. You are certainly welcome to buy or use any extinguisher you choose to, so please do not think I'm trying to push our products on you. I'm only posting this info because others seemed interested in learning more. Anyways I just wanted to put that out there and if there is anything specific you want to know just ask away and I'll do my best to answer what I can. Others please feel free to chime in and add information, scenarios, etc you've had with fires or fighting a fire.

Below are a few useful links:

• Fire and Fire Extinguisment
  A brief guide to fire chemistry and estingishment theory
• Common Myths
• SDS Safety Data Sheets (formally MSDS)
• US Coast Guard Approvals
• Use of ABC Dry Chemical in the vicinity of aircraft
• Amerex hand portable Fire Extinguisher product page
• How to use an extinguisher and Fire Rating Types
• Halon and how does it work
• Amerex Tech Tips for Use, Maintenance and General Knowledge

Some various videos...


CO2 is a great alternative to Halon. As you know it's much cheaper. I keep several around my house in addition to dry chem units. One concern with CO2 over Halon is it will get extremely cold when expelled from liquid state to gas and depending on what you're fighting the fire on this could be an issue. You could risk "cold shocking" some vital electronics that may not take well to those extreme temperatures. For most boat use it would be fine and a good choice of a clean agent while not breaking the bank. After all if life is on the line, the last thing I'm worried about on the boat is saving the ECM if I have to flood the engine compartment lol. My suggestion for Halon was it's like the Cadillac of Clean Agents but also the one the environment frowns upon the most for ozone depletion, hence why it was phased out. If you have a fire on the boat and in the engine hatch most important thing to do is fight the mind naturally wanting to open the hatch and fight the fire. You do not want to do that because all that's going to do is add a ton of oxygen into the mix and fuel the fire even larger. It is important to note if you have a fire and use Clean Agents, you do not want to be standing over the hatch after opening from using the fire port. Chances are you could pass out or worse suffocate. If it were me and a fire started I would flood my fire port with the entire contents of the clean agent. Give if a bit to see if the fire is out but not open the hatch right away or stand anywhere near it. If it's still smoldering you will know. Some clean agents are heavier than air and will actually reside down low, so its also important not to go snooping around sticking your head in there either after the fire has been put out.

Here is a snipit from a good BoatUS article:

If You Face A Fire
Depending on its size, if a fire occurs while in a marina, it may be best to evacuate the boat, dial 911, and let professional firefighters handle it. Remember, fire extinguishers are small, quick fixes. If you can't put out the fire with one extinguisher (two at the most), get out.



Develop a fire-safety plan and make sure everyone on board knows what to do in the event of a fire.

For fires away from the dock, you'll have to be more self-reliant, as evacuation will be more difficult and assistance likely longer in coming. Your response when dealing with an onboard fire while anchored or underway will ultimately be determined by existing conditions (type of fire, location, etc.). However, in general, one of the first steps should be notifying the Coast Guard utilizing VHF Channel 16. Letting someone know you're in trouble sooner rather than later gives rescue agencies (or good Samaritans nearby) a quicker response time should assistance be needed. Once contact is established, pass crucial information as quickly as possible (location, type and size of vessel, number of people on board, boat name, etc) as there might not be a second chance should the fire knock out your electronics (another reason to have a handheld VHF fully charged at all times).

If the fire occurs while underway, stop the boat, paying attention to your surroundings, while maneuvering to avoid other vessels, to the extent possible. If the fire is in the engine room, one of the worst things to do is the first thing everyone wants to do: open up the compartment to see what's going on. Don't do it. You'll only provide additional oxygen, which can turn a smoldering fire into an abandon-ship-type conflagration. It can also overcome you with fumes.

The best way to fight an engine-room fire is having an appropriately sized, clean-agent automatic extinguisher system mounted within the engine compartment. "Automatic" is a key word here, but there should also be a manual discharge control located outside the engine compartment (normally at the helm) so that the unit can be immediately discharged in the event you or a crewmember become aware of a fire before the auto-release mechanism kicks in.

If you don't have an engine-room fire-suppression system, fire ports should be installed to fight engine fires. These are small ports or openings that allow you to discharge a portable, clean-agent fire extinguisher (such as Halotron) directly into the engine room without opening hatches or access panels. Ensure your fire port is big enough to accept the extinguisher nozzle, can be opened or accessed from outside the engine compartment, and is located so that the portable fire extinguisher can be properly discharged in accordance with the manufacturer's instructions (able to be discharged in an upright position, etc.). These extinguishers should be clearly marked for engine-room use only and mounted near the fire port.

Whether you use a portable unit and fire port or an automatic extinguisher, shut down the engine as soon as possible. Wind from boat movement can spread the fire. And importantly, a running engine can pump fire suppressant out of the engine compartment while continuing to suck in fresh air. It may also be feeding the fire with fuel. Most automatic units have an option for installing an automatic engine shutdown, an excellent idea that should be seriously considered. As clean-agent units kill the fire without damaging the engine and components, boaters can often restart their engines (after locating and correcting the initial problem) and return to port under their own power.

 

[Liveto99]

For use in your engine compartment. 25 years in FD myself. Keep cover closed spray in the hole under the rear leaning post .

 

[haknslash]

Those mats look great @FSH Resonders love the clean look!!! I'd love to have colored highlights on my mats but will have to be when it's time to replace.

Also cool to see you using our products (Amerex B385TS Halotron extinguisher). Good choice on agent to protect your boat!

 

[FSH Resonders]

That looks awesome and my seadek is already failing. Did they save the template? Looks like I'll be replacing with that

Aqua Traction Should have my templates on File.

 

[FSH Resonders]

Thread Hijack! Nice mat!!!

@FSH Resonders Could you tell me your thoughts on what fire extinguisher we should have on board considering storage and cost restrictions (Meaning room on the boat is not unlimited and we'd rather not spend over $400? for example?) Thanks!

I am a retired Firefight and Boat captain, I will not recommend any one brand, but I will advise of what I carry on my boats less than 26 feet with mounted extinguishers and the reasons.

Coast Guard Required: 1 each B-1 (Disclaimer It is important that you understand that federal equipment requirements are minimum requirements and do not guarantee the safety of your vessel or its passengers . A B-1 fire extinguisher (equal 2 lbs of dry chemical or 1 1/4 gallons Foam or 4 Lbs of Carbon Dioxide.) - This Fire extinguisher is only good for petroleum fires. Most of the ones you buy are dry chemical rated at 5-B.C and make a mess, but they do their job very well. FYI - the fire access port under the leaning post is not compatible with a dry chemical fire extinguisher. (Cost $17-$30)

In addition to the Coast Guard Required, I have mounted just above the fire access port (See the pictures) a Halotron extinguisher (Class B and C Fires) - Halotron or Carbon Dioxide work by suffocating the fire by removing the Oxygen component of the fire and do not leave a residue. (Cost $78-$200)

While both of the fire extinguishers above do great on Class B and C fires, they will be ineffective in cooling fiberglass or similar materials that have cumbusted. So I carry a AR-AFFF Foam Fire Extinguisher which is good for Class A and B fires, This could also just be a 2A10BC fire extinguisher. (Cost $33-$300)

I am often asked, why so many extinguishers on a 21 foot boat (and usually by the Coast Guard), First I fish 25 miles offshore a lot, A fire boat or other boat is at least a half hour form helping me. Second a well placed and adequate fire extinguisher, can suppress a fire in the early phase of growth. And I would rather be standing on my boat waiting for rescue, then swimming in the water hoping for a rescue. And Yes I carry both a EPIRB on the Boat and a PLB on my vest.

 

[kthrash]

Nice hose Hanger!

 

[kthrash]

That 124 is running 30lbs of boost, she drives it, I am not allowed.

Tell me about the 124, I have one.. how you get 30Lbs of boost out of it? Whats the WHP out of it?

 

[FSH Resonders]

Tell me about the 124, I have one.. how you get 30Lbs of boost out of it? Whats the WHP out of it?

Remember stock boost is 20-21 PSI.

The Wife's FIAT has a GO FAst Bits DV+ Diverter Valve, Turbo Smart +7 PSI Waste Gate actuator and a Euro+Drive Clone Tuning System, which makes a over 233 BHP. Goodwin Racing Roadster Underbody and front and rear sub-frame with Cusco Shock Tower Brace. Running Koing Hypergram 17X8 wheels wrapped in 215/45/17 Continental Extreme Contact DWS tire.

In the fall we will be upgrading the spring and shocks with Roadster Spring and Bilstein B8 Shocks and replacing the stock roll bars with RoadsterSport.

Its fast enough and comfortable enough to be fun, but not deadly.

 

[rkim808]

Aloha @FSH Resonders beautiful install and beautiful Yammy. Did AquaTraction already have templates for ur boat or did u do all the measurements? U said they were cheaper and better then MarineMat and Seadek, well as per ur testing correct?