marcham
Jet Boat Junkie
- Messages
- 703
- Reaction score
- 569
- Points
- 147
- Location
- Comox, BC
- Boat Make
- Yamaha
- Year
- 2019
- Boat Model
- AR195
- Boat Length
- 19
I wanted a second battery mostly for peace of mind. I don't run big amps and don't plan on running the stereo while at anchor for 8 hrs a day. I just wanted a backup should a battery fail or become inadvertantly discharged. I also wanted to have the auto bilge pump wired to a seperate battery for the occasions when we do leave the boat in the water (we plan to go camping in BC marine parks and anchor the boat overnight). I also wanted a charger to charge at home during the winter.
I looked into lithium booster packs but they really are only good for a partially discharged battery that needs a bit of help to get the starter turning.
So once the booster was out, I weighted the pros and cons of installing a DVSR. I don't have a ton of room to mount 3 switches and the DVSR so in the end, I selected a simple 1-both-2 switch. Nearly every sailboat I've been on used that system to charge the batteries (start with 1, switch to both to charge the #2 house, switch to 2 at anchor). I considered installing the 2nd battery on the starboard side but I'm hoping that with me driving and the wife sitting on the other side, the boat will be balanced. And when she's driving and I'm being towed with daughter in the spotter seat, the battery should balance things out nicely. I'll report back after sea trials!.
My plan for this boat is to use #1 on odd days and #2 on even days.
Supplies:
4' red AWG6 tinned
2' yellow AWG6 tinned
5/16 crimp terminals
heat shrink (adhesive inner liner)
BEP 701S switch (same size and brand as OEM on-off switch)
Promariner ProSport HD 8A (dual bank)
Battery tray
3M marine silicone
Stainless fasteners
I started by cutting back the carpet and clearning up most of the glue with a straight razor blade. I then marked and drilled 8 1/8" holes for the tray. Silicone around the holes and tray goes in. Recommend only hand torquing fasteners in fiberglass to avoid tearing them out.
I used a hydraulic crimper for the terminals (FYI, NASA crimps, never solders!), applied the heat shrink and heated it until the glue came out the edges.
Connect it all and voila! An easy 3hr job.
I looked into lithium booster packs but they really are only good for a partially discharged battery that needs a bit of help to get the starter turning.
So once the booster was out, I weighted the pros and cons of installing a DVSR. I don't have a ton of room to mount 3 switches and the DVSR so in the end, I selected a simple 1-both-2 switch. Nearly every sailboat I've been on used that system to charge the batteries (start with 1, switch to both to charge the #2 house, switch to 2 at anchor). I considered installing the 2nd battery on the starboard side but I'm hoping that with me driving and the wife sitting on the other side, the boat will be balanced. And when she's driving and I'm being towed with daughter in the spotter seat, the battery should balance things out nicely. I'll report back after sea trials!.
My plan for this boat is to use #1 on odd days and #2 on even days.
Supplies:
4' red AWG6 tinned
2' yellow AWG6 tinned
5/16 crimp terminals
heat shrink (adhesive inner liner)
BEP 701S switch (same size and brand as OEM on-off switch)
Promariner ProSport HD 8A (dual bank)
Battery tray
3M marine silicone
Stainless fasteners
I started by cutting back the carpet and clearning up most of the glue with a straight razor blade. I then marked and drilled 8 1/8" holes for the tray. Silicone around the holes and tray goes in. Recommend only hand torquing fasteners in fiberglass to avoid tearing them out.
I used a hydraulic crimper for the terminals (FYI, NASA crimps, never solders!), applied the heat shrink and heated it until the glue came out the edges.
Connect it all and voila! An easy 3hr job.
Last edited:
