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AR230 Intermediate Housing Rebuild <bearing>

SocalK

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Hi, I know there are several threads about intermediate housings but I haven’t been able to find one that details the disassembly process. I removed both of mine and have rebuild kits but I’m stuck. I don’t want to start banging away or pressing things without knowing. Any advice is greatly appreciated. 21B2AE7C-9DC1-4BDE-BA6D-DF4911A90E43.jpeg71F5B296-9739-4064-8E86-34BC13B87CBB.jpeg
 

Julian

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SocalK

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Since the bearing is only $126 new....I'd be tempted to just replace the whole thing!
That’s just the housing. Doesn’t include the bearings or seals, the shaft and coupling would still have to be removed from existing units, so I have the same challenge regardless
 

Julian

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That’s just the housing. Doesn’t include the bearings or seals, the shaft and coupling would still have to be removed from existing units, so I have the same challenge regardless
Good point! Reading too quickly!
 

mlapaglia

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Hello there SocalK - I have a question for you about the removal process of those drive bearings? How difficult was this? Did you have to pull the engines to get these bearings out and replace? I have a 2008 SX230 HO
Thanks, Michael
 

SocalK

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Hey mlapaglia,
Not gonna lie, it sucks. You don't have to pull the engines out but you have to remove the motor mount bolts and slide them forward a few inches. I was able to do it by myself but it was awful. I chose to remove the 2 bolts at the base of each motor mount instead of the single on top of the motor. 1. Because i felt they were easier to access and 2. I've read about dealing with shims and placement of the motor on the mounts being problematic.
There are a couple bolts that are very difficult to access and get free. They are held in with thread-lock, and not a lot of space to get leverage. It was a slow and painful process, but it had to be done. You also need to loosen the exhaust connections that attach to the tubes that go through the hull, as well as the hose clamps inside the clean-out hatch area that are on the black tubing that surrounds the drive-line assembly. You also have to detach the grease fill line.
While I have both housings out of the boat, I have yet to actually get the housings disassembled because I'm waiting on the back-ordered sub-shaft holder tool. Hoping it arrives next week.
 

buckbuck

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@SocalK Please continue to take pictures of your adventure. Others will benefit from your efforts.
 

SocalK

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So I completed the rebuild of my intermediate housings this week, and managed to do it without the shaft holder tool or the coupler removal tool. I did use a 12 ton hydraulic shop press from Harbor Freight ($140) and I needed a pair of large retaining clip pliers ($90 @ Napa). The small 6 ton press won’t work as it doesn’t have a large enough opening.

I made a jig to support the steel arbors that came with the press to be able to press the shaft out of the housing with the coupler attached. I used a block of hard wood between the press ram and the female end of the shaft so as not to Worked like a charm.
Once I got the shaft out, you have to remove the seals from both sides to expose the retainer clips holding the bearing in place. Make sure you pay attention to the sequence and direction the seals face for reassembly. I had to use vice grips and a screwdriver to get the seals out. You’ll need to put some muscle into it. Once they’re out, you’ll use the retaining clip pliers to get those rings out of both sides. These are large clips so a small set of pliers won’t work.

Once you have everything apart, you can start reassembly. Clean out all the old grease first. When you repack the bearings and seals make sure you use marine grease as it typically contains lithium and lithium and non-lithium grease cannot be mixed. So whatever you pack it with, make sure you use the same for ongoing maintenance.

I started by putting one of the retaining clips in first. Followed by the bearing. Pack with grease. This allowed my to press the bearing into place directly against the clip. When you use the hydraulic press, don’t go crazy with it. Press the bearing slowly and once you feel the resistance against the clip stop. Check it and keep pressing if needed. I used a spare washer I had and a short piece of pvc to press the bearing into place. Once the Bearing is in place, make sure you have enough grease to fill the space, Insert the retaining clip on the other side of the bearing. Next Pack the seals full of grease and press into place. I actually did this by hand using the pvc pipe and a rubber mallet.
Once all the seals are in place. You can press the shaft and coupler back into the housing. I placed the housing face down on the metal arbor so the shaft could pass through the opening as I pressed it in. I had the ram on the press directly in the center of the coupling. Slowly press the shaft into the housing until there is 9.5-10.5mm of the female end of the shaft protruding last the edge of the housing. If you press it too far, you’ll have to reuse the jig and arbors to push the shaft back out and adjust again.
Good luck and happy to help anyone out with questions. 5BFFEDD6-CB6C-498C-872D-D52D157F524C.jpegA93904F4-56B8-4A23-B00B-77CA224E785F.jpeg747E5692-8A58-4B39-AC63-F0C78647FD6D.jpeg5209492A-D86F-4614-A355-B4CEA99E3CCE.jpeg1D5BF72E-98A8-4B5B-82D6-AB75E30C2272.jpegAFA54763-D97E-4BFD-AB35-19312D3B7309.jpeg4983C376-C21E-4FA2-A98E-F026627A0DAE.jpeg3513A56A-90AC-4165-B460-D090F3AC14B1.png
 
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robertr

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great write up, thanks, question, did you replace yours cause it was making noise or letting water in, I have a rattling noise on my port engine, actually both but the port sounds louder, I took ff the impeller duct assy with shaft from port engine and started the engine and the rattle is still there, the engine seems to run fine and revs fine, I know these engines rattle out of the water but wondering if its the bearing or its just normal and I'm thinking its something else ,its a 2003 sr230 , the intermediate housings look original

also, when you slid the engine back, you were able to do this by hand just pushing it forward or you had to lift it a little with a lift and then slide it back,

thanks
 

SocalK

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Apologies for the delayed response. I pulled them because of the rattling noise you mention (although that wasn’t solved by rebuilding these). But glad I did. They were in horrible shape. Sliding the engine was easily done by hand, by myself. The hardest part is getting the engine mount bolts removed. They’re in there really tight and difficult angles on a couple. Also be careful when tightening back, I snapped one off!
 

robertr

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no worries, thanks, that was the info I was looking for, both my engines rattle but they work fine, but intermediate bearing housing look like they are the original 17 year old ones, so a swap is in the future, the rattling noise these things make takes a lot getting use to, lol
thanks
 

FLJetBoater

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Apologies for the delayed response. I pulled them because of the rattling noise you mention (although that wasn’t solved by rebuilding these). But glad I did. They were in horrible shape. Sliding the engine was easily done by hand, by myself. The hardest part is getting the engine mount bolts removed. They’re in there really tight and difficult angles on a couple. Also be careful when tightening back, I snapped one off!
Great write up!

Did you replace the intermediate housing or the bearing housing or just reuse them?


The parts look to be about $150 just for the bearings/seals but there are complete bearing assembly’s on eBay from WSM for like $200 which includes a new bearing housing which (OEM) is $225 on its own?

And you were able to slide the engine forward by hand? Seems like that would be quite heavy/difficult?
 
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