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Attempting to Changing oil

WOOSAB

Jet Boat Addict
Messages
75
Reaction score
20
Points
97
Location
Mansfield, Texas
Boat Make
Yamaha
Year
2012
Boat Model
SX
Boat Length
24
Ok I read the oil change stuff for my 2008 sx230. So I think I have a general idea on that... Place a level on the top make sure motors are level and then check dip stick and cold level motor should read the bottom line on the dip stick.

My question what are you guys using to suck the oil out of the motor with? I would like to get that done in the next week and have decided to attempt it this week my self instead of making the hour drive to the dealer ship and paying his price. I assume how ever much oil I suck out put the same amount back in then get on water and top off. The stick should read full on the water? Also change filters if there is any rust on them..

Also since these motors are the same as the r1's well same design are you folks running regular or synthetic?
I know we usually ran mobil 1 synthetic in our R1..
 
I guess key points are:

Put back in the same amount of oil that you get out for each engine.

Top off engine oil level when the engines are warm.

Other than that everyone has their own personal preference on oil and filters and I would use what you are comfortable with.
 
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When you change the oil, change the filters too. You have everything else correct. Its easy, don't over think it. I use puppy pads below the engine to keep the oil from getting everywhere. I use a Pela 6000 extractor. It is much easier to extract if the engine oil is hot.
 
I use mobil 1 full synthetic also and a pella 6000 extractor,

It's not difficult and usually takes me about an hour including gathering everything and warming the engines up,
If you want any help let me know, do you have a YDS? I usually check the hours and history while I'm warming them up.
 
Mobil 1 & K&N filters. The K&N's have a nut welded to the top so you only need an adjustable wrench to remove.
 
I like the K&N filters because of the nut. It makes changing alot easier.
 
thanks for the replies.. I'm order that pella 6000 since that seems to be what everyone is using.

@ scott no I don't have the YDS I would love to see the hours and information on my motor. I need to order 1 so I can see that as well. Does it come with all the software of do you have to order that from someone else.

Also looks like everyone is using same oil and filter we use on the R1's...
 
Not starting another oil debate. But I am in the camp that Yamalube is better and that is what I used, as well as the Yamaha oil filters, since they were fleece and superior to paper filters. Either way, and annual change is a good thing! Secondly, I liked the West Marine version of the Mity Vac. It was spec'ed by West Marine and made by mity vac, however it is not the same pump at all. It is more stable and can hold both engines oil easily and cut down on spillage that way.

Agree that warming the oil makes the job easier, as well as a changing pad under the engine keeping it neat. I used a short ziplock container under the filter to catch that oil when I unscrewed it and just suctioned that out at well. Only replace the oil you take out. If it isn't at the level you want, wait until your on the lake to adjust after running 5 minutes at cruise, then idle for 3 minutes, then check level and adjust. Getting the boat level isn't necessary Justin, but you may get more oil out if it is. Just no big slopes either way, just an eyeball level is ok. Because it only needs to be level to adjust the level of oil, not to remove and replace the same amount removed. This is the oil extractor I like...
oil extractor.jpg
 
@WOOSAB - if you want to borrow YDS or want me to read them for you I'd be glad to, it only takes a second once the computer is hooked up,
if you buy a new yds it will come with the software, if you make your own plug we'd have to give you a copy,
 
Just did my first oil and spark plug change today. Well first one I've done myself..

I went by my local dealer/Marina and picked up Yamaha oil, lube, and filters. Since I'm doing it myself I wanted the peace of mind knowing that if I ever have issues I can show itemized receipts for Yamalube products. Not sure it'll matter, but makes me feel better. I've read opinions about synthetic oil drying out seals over time, not sure how accurate that is, but a couple of the tech's told me that they dint pay extra for synthetic, that the quality isn't worth the price difference from performance or longevity. Again, I personally don't know but my thought process is small engine, high RPM's Yamaha should know what's best.

Also I used a rebranded Pella and was surprised at how easy it really was. I second the diapers/puppy pads, etc, made it a very clean process.
 
thanks for all info hopefully my stuff will be here before the end of the week so i can attempt it.. Thanks
 
I called my local Yamaha Dealer and asked for a price for 4 quarts of oil, oil filter, and four spark plugs for an SX190. He gave me a price $120 cash or $132 with credit. Is it me, or does this sould way too expensive for a single engine...
 
An engine oil change kit costs around 42 -50 dollars. They include 1 filter and 4 qts. Of oil. 4 spark plugs at O'reilys will be around $20.
 
you guys actually CHANGE the oil???

I just put fresh oil in just the way it comes out of the container. How in the heck do you change it? And is that good for the motors?
 
I called my local Yamaha Dealer and asked for a price for 4 quarts of oil, oil filter, and four spark plugs for an SX190. He gave me a price $120 cash or $132 with credit. Is it me, or does this sould way too expensive for a single engine...
just ballpark, $25. for 5 qts of oil, $15. filter, $20. spark plugs = $60. + add the yamaha name to it and mark it up almost 100% = sounds about right,
 
you guys actually CHANGE the oil???

I just put fresh oil in just the way it comes out of the container. How in the heck do you change it? And is that good for the motors?
Did you install your drain plugs to keep from sinking with all of that oil you added??
 
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