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Bimini bracket SX240

BakedZiti

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Yamaha
Year
2019
Boat Model
SX
Boat Length
24
Hey guys, so one of my bimini brackets let go the other day. The holes are completely wollowed out and wont hold the screw anymore. I have tried some jb weld putty but I'm not having much success the bracket is just under too much stress when the bimini is engaged and it pulls the screws. I'm kind of at a loss as to what to do the boat is only a year old. The dealership is a 2.5 hour drive away and dont really feel like doing that and losing my boat for weeks. Anyone with some experience/knowledge have any ideas? 20200607_162114.jpg20200607_162024.jpg
 

sunbyrned

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242 Limited S E-Series
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24
I have some experience with a completely different design, which is attached to my tower. However, some similarities. Mine ripped out of the tower tubing due a ton of pressure like yours. Turns out the bowed portions of the Bimini tubing were installed on the wrong sides. They were actually bending outward instead of inward and I had to pull like hell to get them to the brackets. So, perhaps check for this. Regarding the repair or quick fix, I can’t tell by your pics, but would it be possible to drill straight through your top holes and use a U-bolt to attach the piece? I ended up using a hose clamp on mine, but again, it is on a tower.
 

BakedZiti

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I have some experience with a completely different design, which is attached to my tower. However, some similarities. Mine ripped out of the tower tubing due a ton of pressure like yours. Turns out the bowed portions of the Bimini tubing were installed on the wrong sides. They were actually bending outward instead of inward and I had to pull like hell to get them to the brackets. So, perhaps check for this. Regarding the repair or quick fix, I can’t tell by your pics, but would it be possible to drill straight through your top holes and use a U-bolt to attach the piece? I ended up using a hose clamp on mine, but again, it is on a tower.
I dont think a u-bolt would be possible, the bracket attaches to my window frame which is of course enclosed, unless im not understanding your angle? Interesting about the bimini tubing. Not sure how the bimini on AR works but mine was attached fully assembled from the factory. Are you saying it could be wrong from the factory? It is pretty hard to engage the Bimini. My wife struggles with it and I usually have to step in. I've always thought it was a bit much, I know there needs to be tension but seems excessive.
 

Scottintexas

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I don't know how they would fix that ??

I'd make sure you don't have a possible installation error as sunybrnd did so you not fighting a never ending battle, I can't think of any member at the moment with a 2019 sx24

maybe just get a tap and enlarge the holes on the fitting and the boat and buy the next size up bolt or try a self tapping screw ???



.
 

sunbyrned

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Gotcha! Hopefully someone can have a good solution for your design. I’m the second owner of my boat so I don’t know if it was a manufacturing thing or the first owner. Everyone on the forum said there must be something wrong because theirs didn’t have that much tension. Sure enough, there was something wrong. For mine, it was an easy fix. I just swapped the bending poles to the other side’s. Luckily they were detachable. Maybe consider this if it looks like it could work for you too.
 

sunbyrned

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Here's a pic of my situation. If you follow your eyes down from the canvas to the very first pole you come to, those are the ones that were on the wrong sides. You can see they have a slight bend to them. (They separate from the rest of the tubing just before the major horseshoe bend) That slight bend used to go away from the boat. If you zoom in where those poles are attached to the tower, you'll see the hose clamps I'm using. The screws pulled out just like yours.
1591894950454.png
 

BakedZiti

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Almost makes me want to just have it spot welded on, not sure if thats even possible. The other side is becoming ever so slightly loose, figure its just a matter of time. I was wondering if there is a longer pole i can buy so it not so much strain....sigh
 

Mike Clark

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I have a 2015 SX240 and had a new Bimini top made over winter.this year, Made locally from the original, but had 3 .0" added to the center. Wanted the front to come down farther. To do this I had to purchase new tubing and ends.

So, to address your question, here is an option, may not be the best, but tossing it out there. If you cannot do it at home, take your bracket and have two more identical holes added with chamfers in between the existing holes.
Once this is completed, fill up the inner part of you railing with either an epoxy, or silicone, kind you use for bathrooms (Clear),( Just fill area under holes.)
After it dries, using the two existing screws. Place the clamp back in place and screw into original holes. The silicone with keep these screws semi secure from rattling.
Then using two new holes in bracket as a guide, center into the hole and drill and tap 2 new holes, if these are self tapping screws then will just need to drill. Will need to find similar screws.

Once this done. Place your original poles on the top section of the Bimini and and pull snug, but not too crazy tight, measure how much longer the poles need to be to satisfy what you think is reasonable.

Go to Sailrite web site. At top is menus, Click Hardware, then Tubing, find 7/8" and you can either buy (2) 2 Ft pieces ($11.90 Ea.) or (1) 4 Ft piece. ($23.80) Length of each side is about 21.5 " I think. Will need to cut tubing to correct length . I bought a Rigid tube cutter "For Stainless Steel" about $35.00 but does a perfect job

Then go to hardware, Eye ends, and get (4) 7/8 eye ends. ($6.95) ea. The eye ends on the factory ones are riveted, so no reusing them. (at least mine were)

One thing to check, on my original front poles there are two setting for length. There is a push button that you can push in on the side of the poles and pull the tube longer or shorter. 2.0" difference in length, make sure, if yours are adjustable, that they are on the longer length, will never get to the shorter length without bowing the poles, or stripping out bolts?

If you cannot find the correct screws at a hardware store. The factory Yamaha part # is 90167-08S10-00 need 2 $2.95 Ea. Local dealer or order form yamaha parts on line.

Trying to weld on anodized aluminum will ruin the look and always possible to get burn spots on interior?
 

BakedZiti

Jet Boat Junkie
Messages
194
Reaction score
226
Points
142
Location
Milledgeville, Ga
Boat Make
Yamaha
Year
2019
Boat Model
SX
Boat Length
24
I have a 2015 SX240 and had a new Bimini top made over winter.this year, Made locally from the original, but had 3 .0" added to the center. Wanted the front to come down farther. To do this I had to purchase new tubing and ends.

So, to address your question, here is an option, may not be the best, but tossing it out there. If you cannot do it at home, take your bracket and have two more identical holes added with chamfers in between the existing holes.
Once this is completed, fill up the inner part of you railing with either an epoxy, or silicone, kind you use for bathrooms (Clear),( Just fill area under holes.)
After it dries, using the two existing screws. Place the clamp back in place and screw into original holes. The silicone with keep these screws semi secure from rattling.
Then using two new holes in bracket as a guide, center into the hole and drill and tap 2 new holes, if these are self tapping screws then will just need to drill. Will need to find similar screws.

Once this done. Place your original poles on the top section of the Bimini and and pull snug, but not too crazy tight, measure how much longer the poles need to be to satisfy what you think is reasonable.

Go to Sailrite web site. At top is menus, Click Hardware, then Tubing, find 7/8" and you can either buy (2) 2 Ft pieces ($11.90 Ea.) or (1) 4 Ft piece. ($23.80) Length of each side is about 21.5 " I think. Will need to cut tubing to correct length . I bought a Rigid tube cutter "For Stainless Steel" about $35.00 but does a perfect job

Then go to hardware, Eye ends, and get (4) 7/8 eye ends. ($6.95) ea. The eye ends on the factory ones are riveted, so no reusing them. (at least mine were)

One thing to check, on my original front poles there are two setting for length. There is a push button that you can push in on the side of the poles and pull the tube longer or shorter. 2.0" difference in length, make sure, if yours are adjustable, that they are on the longer length, will never get to the shorter length without bowing the poles, or stripping out bolts?

If you cannot find the correct screws at a hardware store. The factory Yamaha part # is 90167-08S10-00 need 2 $2.95 Ea. Local dealer or order form yamaha parts on line.

Trying to weld on anodized aluminum will ruin the look and always possible to get burn spots on interior?
Wow, thank you for this information, I will definitely be looking at this for an option. Ya, i never have even attempted getting the second hole to seat lol, dont know if its even possible. One question i do have is what do you think it would take to make new holes in the brackets? Special tooling?
 
Last edited:

J rod

Well-Known Member
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Yamaha
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2011
Boat Model
Limited S
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Wow, thank you for this information, I will definitely be looking at this for an option. Ya, i never have even attempted getting the second hole to seat lol, dont know if its even possible. One question i do have is what do you think it would take to make new holes in the brackets? Special tooling?

I am having similar issues with my Bimini mounting points on my tower. Haven't completed the fix yet but I will be installing aluminum or stainless nutserts at every mounting point. They install much like a rivet and are much stronger than the original attachment due to more threads on the inside. You will just need to find the right size for your situation.
 

BakedZiti

Jet Boat Junkie
Messages
194
Reaction score
226
Points
142
Location
Milledgeville, Ga
Boat Make
Yamaha
Year
2019
Boat Model
SX
Boat Length
24
I am having similar issues with my Bimini mounting points on my tower. Haven't completed the fix yet but I will be installing aluminum or stainless nutserts at every mounting point. They install much like a rivet and are much stronger than the original attachment due to more threads on the inside. You will just need to find the right size for your situation.
I ended up using some 5,000psi jb weld and it seems to be doing the trick
 
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