bunk board recoverings

[Purplebeast]

Ok, so I have searched and searched for bunk covering or recovering on forum but have not seen any. If there is please point it out! What is the best bunk covering out there or should I look into roller bunks? I have AR240.

 

[Bruce]

This is what I did on my and @Backwash's trailers. A year later I am still very happy with it https://jetboaters.net/threads/replaced-bunks-on-mfi-trailer.1927/

 

[Purplebeast]

Good read...it helps a lot...thx...anyone put rollers on there trailer? Or does tht affect the gel coat.

 

[Bruce]

I worry that rollers would be bad for our relatively thin hulls.

 

[scokill]

I got carpet at bass pro, used contact cement on carpet and on the new treated boards, stainless staples, galvanized lag bolts.

If you wanted to do rollers it would probably be you buying a new custom trailer. Rollers seem like more trouble than they are worth.

Good read...it helps a lot...thx...anyone put rollers on there trailer? Or does tht affect the gel coat.

 

[octavio3311]

I had rollers with my Crownline. I was never crazy about each individual roller's contact point on the hull. They never did anything, but I just didn't like it. I'd like to believe the bunks spread the load out more evenly.
Another thing - when off loading, depending on the incline of the ramp, never take your hand off the winch handle - cause if you do - there she goes. And once that handle starts spinning, there's no stopping it. Not without a broken wrist.

 

[Seadeals]

I used 16 oz carpet purchased online from boat carpet central. 6' x 16' was more than enough with leftover for one shorter bunk if ever needed. I was paranoid about switching to lag bolts which are MUCH easier. I bought new boards, galvanized carriage bolts washers and nuts. Boards were counterbored on top so no heads protrude. It was a royal pain locating and drilling the holes where all bolts would pass through the metal mount brackets. If you ever get new boards locate in place from below and drill up not down. I had pre-glued and wrapped the new boards except on the ends back to the brackets. Then I went to the ramp to swap them out, I had to tweak the holes, installed the bolts and then finished wrapping the ends. It has held up very well (great carpet); but I will rethink my approach next time. It was a PITA at the ramp with pressure to finish and get the boat back on before a rogue storm and sunset.

 

[Purplebeast]

Thanks! Great input here! I plan on measuring boards and prepping all up before going to the lake! Doing it while they boat awhile..only way I have of getting boat off the trailer.

 

[Seadeals]

No problem. I thought I prepared so well and things would go so smoothly. In actuality once I pulled the bunks, my new bolts were the slightest bit bigger requiring I ream each bracket hole to fit the new bolts. While I had my whole toolbox, drilling the metal burned down all my cordless batteries and I eventually broke the bit used to open the holes. The tolerance in the pre-drilled holes I spent so much time to accurately locate in the boards still created issues with the bolt alignment since the holes were so tight. Brute force worked for some. In the end I had a buddy bring a generator to the ramp and it was game on just in time to beat a developing storm and get the boat back on. If I did it again, I would not waste the time pre-drilling the boards. I would have taken power or went to a ramp with power and back-drilled 3/4 the way through with the full size bit, then pilot the rest of the way through with a smaller bit and counterbored (used a forsner bit) from the top using the pilot. I usually go overboard and wanted to be sure the bolt heads would never protrude; but I suspect hammering them into the wood and drawing them below the surface would probably suffice. A ramp swap to new boards can be a lot harder than a driveway job with your boat stored at the lake, so I hope some of this helps you make a flawless ramp swap!