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Detailed 2016 242 LS $1k Audio Upgrade

Discussion in 'Yamaha AR240, SX240, 242 Limited / S / X/ E-Series' started by Mainah, May 22, 2016.

  1. Mainah

    Mainah Jetboaters Captain

    Messages:
    2,226
    Location:
    Chapin, SC
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    +2,674 / 19
    Boat Make:
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    Year:
    2016
    Boat Model:
    Limited S
    Boat Length:
    24
    Yet another but distinct audio upgrade so I thought I would share. My self inflicted budget was $1k and I came really close to that. Long and detailed post so I will will lead with the photos and the rest of the detailed info is below.

    New Speakers
    IMG_3459.JPG
    IMG_3460.JPG
    IMG_3462.JPG
    IMG_3463.JPG
    IMG_3464.JPG
    IMG_3465.JPG

    Amp Board
    IMG_3452.JPG

    Some of the install remnants
    IMG_3458.JPG

    Parts
    • 2 JL Audio m400/4 amps
    • 1 Polk DB 1040 Sub (matches factory Polks and grilles)
    • 1 Pair Polk DB 6x9s (matches factory Polks and grilles)
    • 20 each feet power and 20 feet ground 0 AWG KnuKoncepts Kolossus Fleks Marine Power Wire (perhaps overkill given 90% efficient class D amps but with a nearly 20 foot run over or near the gas tank I did not think the chance of melting wire at a smaller gauge was somewhere I wanted to cut corners or save money)
    • 110 feet 14 AWG KnuKoncepts marine speaker wire (perhaps overkill for the stock speakers but since running no splice runs from the new amps might as well go 14 gauge)
    • 10 feet 12 AWG KnuKoncepts marine speaker wire (only needed 5 feet .. recommend 10 gauge for powerful subs or longer runs)
    • 1 Knukoncepts large waterproof 0 AWG fuse holder for positive battery switch side of run
    • AudioPipe combined power and ground block for amp side
    • 5 feet each 4 AWG power and ground cable for fuse and ground block to amps
    • KnuKoncepts speaker terminals (they have the tiny ones for the stock Polk DBs), power terminals, fuses
    • 10 feet sump pump hose as protection conduit for power and ground wire where ran over gas tank and around engine bay access to batteries and switches
    • 1 foot small PVC hose to trim factory cutout in helm compartment where cables run through for protection of wiring
    • 1 sheet HDPE (Starboard) 3/4" x 24" x 36"
    • Stainless Steel Fasteners picked up from local hardware store to fit everything exactly right
    • 25' latex tubing (more than enough)
    • No I am not connected to KnuKoncepts in anyway. They simply sell superior craftsmanship and performing wiring products. Note the speaker wire is difficult to strip so be gentle with a sharp blade on the outer casing to score the wire then flex it to pull the outer casing off.
    Unique Install Details
    • Cut custom 2 inch increased outside diameter backing rings out of the HDPE for all speakers (new and stock) to give a something for the screws to bite into and to help reduced fiberglass deflection. Used counter sunk set screws to hold them in place.
    • New holes in fiberglass for the sub and 6x9s were cut very clean by first mounting the backing rings with the set screws and then using a trim router with a bearing straight bit to follow the backing rings as templates. Super clean cutouts this way but HUGE mess. Cleaned up with a shop vac connected to a dust deputy so as not to clog the filter. Respirator and disposable painters suit were worn and are highly recommend by me when cutting fiberglass.
    • Ran new speaker wire to everything except rear deck and tower. Zip tied to stock harness for secure wiring install.
    • Center compression crimps on all speaker and poor wire terminals that were not a screw connection
    • Tinned all wire after stripped and prior to termination by dipping in molten solder inside of a one inch copper pipe end cap
    • Added latex tubing drip lines for all mid cabin cupholders and used a cable wall flange and silicone to make a drip line for the small storage tray behind the throttles since it is over my new sub.
    • Custom HDPE amp board with through hole wiring management, back of the board zip ties, and all edges and holes front and back round over routed to prevent any sharp edges for anyone reach into the helm or on the wires as they are run through the holes.
    • Added digital voltage gauge for the start battery (the red and round led gauge in the photo since the power and ground distribution block I choose had a built in gauge and is of course wired to the house battery. This allows me to check on the start battery since the connext only shows the house.
    • The two circuit boards are for my custom push button start system ... https://jetboaters.net/threads/push...video-and-full-instructions.9371/#post-160607
    Wiring Details
    • Amp 1 connected to front speaker RCA output from head unit
    • Amp 2 connected to pre out from Amp 1
    • Rear speakers still connected to stock head unit (note that will have to splice plus and minus on stock rear cabin wiring as the rear deck were run in series from the factory with these)
    • Tower tweeters still connected to stock head unit
    • Sub connected to bridged channel one and two from amp 1
    • Stock 6 inch and new 6x9s each connected to own amp channel from amp 1 or 2
    • Main power wire run to house battery switch with line water proof case mounted 150 amp fuse 12 inches from switch
    • 2 group 31 AGM batteries (1 start, 1 house)
    • NOCO Genius 2 bank 10 amp each bank on board charger
    Results
    • Huge improvement in sound quality and volume
    • Before the upgrade we could barely hear the speakers at cruise except for the tower and now very full range and loud sound at cruise.
    • Still some headroom in amps with head unit balance a little to the rear so the rear deck gets the power it needs from the head unit.
    • Tower tweeters no longer overwhelm and are actually a benefit with this setup (head unit balanced a little to the rear)
    • Stock speakers including the rear deck are much louder and cleaner with full range sound (high pass amp crossover set at 80 hz)
    • 6x9s really help out the mid bass (high pass amp crossover set at 50 hz)
    • Seems very power efficient so far. Three hours with amps on at various levels yesterday and still plenty of house juice left.
    • Should have gone with a better sub and better sub location for better sound. Since the location is already cut I will likely upgrade the sub to the mm um series which will have the same mounting holes and I will be able to use the DB grill. Polk mm um sub also requires less mounting depth
    • Sub location (same as 242x but opposite side) causes outer hull deflection and I am going reinforce by epoxy encasing a couple of 24 inch lengths of aluminum flat bar behind the sub to the hull.
    • Nice part is can always upgrade to the mm um series for any of the speakers in the future with minimal effort in the future if desired or add another amp, tower cans, and another sub. Think I will enjoy it for now given I have spent more time doing mods than on the water so far.
    Hope this post helps someone out with ideas or helps someone looking to attempt their first marine audio upgrade.

    Edit- Important fact that I should add for how I mounted the amps and did the wiring. I am one of those annoying lean fitness types that can squeeze in the helm. I face the bow stick my right leg and arm in, squat while squeezing my hips/butt/torso/head through, pull my left leg in while crouched, spin 180 degrees on the balls of my feet, sit on the throwable pfd as a cushion, realize I forgot the tool I needed on the swim deck, curse and repeat.
     
    Last edited: Feb 21, 2017
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  2. Murf'n'surf

    Murf'n'surf Jetboaters Admiral Staff Member Administrator

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    Beautiful amp layout and clean look. :thumbsup:
     
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  3. Benny Sibbitt

    Benny Sibbitt Jet Boat Junkie

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    Wow... Very clean
     
  4. njmr2fan

    njmr2fan Jetboaters Lieutenant

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    love it, clean install.
     
  5. swatski

    swatski Jetboaters Fleet Admiral

    Messages:
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    Beautiful install! Your amp board is a piece of art, I think you are setting ridiculously high standards to follow here. Thanks for sharing the links to KnuKoncept wire offerings, that 0 gauge cable is unreal, it looks like a CCA but it is not! And I don't think I will ever be tinning my wires the way I used to after reading your post...
    I wonder how much is your Polk 1040 sub adding to the mix, is it mounted in an enclosure?
     
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  6. OperationROL

    OperationROL Jetboaters Captain Staff Member Administrator

    Messages:
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    That is very, very nice. What do you mean when you say that the sub causes outer hull deflection? Do you mean it is pressing on the hull and pushing it out?
     
  7. Mainah

    Mainah Jetboaters Captain

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    @swatski and @OperationROL. My sub is mounted in the same lication as the new 242 x and where others have mounted thiers but on the starboard side under the tray and cupholders (photos at the start of the post). There is about 3/8" clearance from the back of the magnet to the inside of the outer hull. When the sub oscillates at high volumes the backwards pulsed air pressure causes some deflection in the outer hull directly behind it. I am concerned that over time this could cause spider cracking in the exterior gelcoat.

    My fix for this will be aluminum flat bar expoxied encased to the inside of the outer hull behind the sub. I am a little disappointed with the subs really low frequency performance. I am also going to replace the sub with a polk mm1040um or an ib type sub. If I go with the polk I may decide to try and seal up the location as much as possible turning the inner and outer hull into a sealed and reinforced box.

    If I were to start fresh with no holes cut. I would mount two subs under the starboard cabin seat and fabricate a box behind them.
     
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  8. Mainah

    Mainah Jetboaters Captain

    Messages:
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    Location:
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    Year:
    2016
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    24
    Ever since my first amp install at 18 years old when I melted the very undersized wire I used into the trunk carpet of my first car I have been very cautious with wiring. That and after some budget OFC speaker wire turned green, I now only use good stuff.

    Not sure how I came across knukoncepts but I was impressed when I read the details and even more impressed when I unboxed it at my door. The 0 guage I used is crazy good, 5,145 indivdually tinned stands of OFC. Basically underwater stick welding wire. Super flexible and will carry plenty of power for almost any multi amp set up. They also make cca wire for half the price of what I used.
     
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  9. Gulf_Shores_Bandit

    Gulf_Shores_Bandit New Member

    Messages:
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    Year:
    2015
    Boat Model:
    AR
    Boat Length:
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    I have one question...I'm not sure if it is same as on a 2015 AR210 but how do you remove the back rest to access easier the helm ...I just bought this boat about 2 weeks ago and I too am about to do some audio upgrades...just looking for tips from you experts.
     
  10. Mainah

    Mainah Jetboaters Captain

    Messages:
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    Not sure about a 210. I can say that it is a good thing that I am fairly trim and limber. I got my myself all the way into the helm and used a throwable pfd as a cushion. I then used beer to relieve the aches afterwards.
     
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  11. OperationROL

    OperationROL Jetboaters Captain Staff Member Administrator

    Messages:
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    It is probably the same set up as my boat as far as how to remove the seat back. Here is a post I posted as a response to some else earlier today:

    Removing the seat back is simple. The screws that you see and pictured above are for brackets that don't get removed. The seat pushes down on them and hangs on them. The screws that you will need to remove are at the bottom of the cushions from the front side. You will need to push up a little on the bottom of the cushions to see the screws. Once you remove all the bottom screws, you will simply push the cushions up off of the top brackets. Reinstalling is just the opposite.
     
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  12. redthumper9

    redthumper9 Jetboaters Lieutenant

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    That amp rack is legit! Nice job. I went with KnuKoncepts 0 gauge as well. I was very impressed with it.
     
  13. Gulf_Shores_Bandit

    Gulf_Shores_Bandit New Member

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    Thanks for the information... it's pretty similar in assembly...I sorta thought it worked in that fashion just figured I should ask before doing more than needed..
     
  14. Jasonsbiz74

    Jasonsbiz74 Well-Known Member

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    amp board is sweet ! nice work !
     
  15. Mainah

    Mainah Jetboaters Captain

    Messages:
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    Brief update. As mentioned I was not happy with the subwoofer performance. I upgraded it to a polk mm1040um last weekend. The specs on it required less than half the air space, better efficiency and better power handling while claiming to be free air capable.

    The result with swapping the sub and making the nessacary gain adjustment on the amp was good. Much better response at mid volume, more thump at higher volumes, better sounding across broad spectrum of music, and all with less behind the basket hull deflection. Now this costs about 90 bucks more than the db but certainly worth it. For me it was also a direct fit replacement for the db.

    Still not the tight super hard hitting bass you get in a sealed box though. Perhaps an off season project will be sealing up that area some how.
     
    Last edited: Jul 30, 2016
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  16. Nick Hughes

    Nick Hughes Jet Boat Lover

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    After 1/2 a season on my boat, I'm going to do a similar upgrade in the offseason, but will probably use the 600/6 amps in case I want to power the transoms and/or add tower speakers. Anyways, what are the 2 items above the distribution block?
     
  17. OperationROL

    OperationROL Jetboaters Captain Staff Member Administrator

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  18. Nick Hughes

    Nick Hughes Jet Boat Lover

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    Thanks, completely missed that. Guess I'll just add some push buttons as well, why not.
     
  19. Julian

    Julian Jetboaters Fleet Admiral Staff Member Administrator

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  20. SierraWhiskey

    SierraWhiskey Active Member

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    @Mainah , this is a great write-up. Now that it has been roughly a year and you had a season with your new audio setup, any changes you would make? Any additional recommendations?

    By the way, this thread should be moved to a "How-To" folder or in eletronics-Stereo/GPS/Chartplotter/Electrical etc folder.
     
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