(If it checks out) Yes - Given the season and current COVID sellers market (check comps, and be shocked that similar boats offered by brokers would be +$5K). If the trailer is good, definitely a plus! The hours are low .... averaging 15hrs a year (verify the YDS reports and get engine use details though).
For your specific boat circumstances - be extra particular about inspection/survey: definitely look close at salt-specific issues (if that’s applicable on the FL locations for use of this boat) from inside engines/cooling system to wear or damage to jetpump area, and definitely investigate and get records and warranty from the engine replacement (and any other work). Add verification of all the X-specific features and equipment (ballast, etc).
Hope it helps - here is inspection checklist worked out from our survey in fall 2020 to end up purchasing ‘09 AR210. Credit goes to many from this awesome JB crew at this forum. (Sorry for the delay, I wished to find the OP and others I cribed and referenced from for this... it may have been in the FAQ?). Cannot get attach doc to work yet either due to Apple format.
Yamaha Jetboat Pre-purchasing Inspections and Wet test drive items (Nov 2020)
Contact servicing marina/mechanic(s) to discuss this boat’s condition, records of service and work. Major problems? Major repairs/work - get records and warranty. (Same for trailer)
A- Check the serial numbers! Hull (HIN) AND trailer (VIN). Make sure they match the paperwork. Run HIN report and recalls.
B - Check hull for any repairs. Paint may not quite match in area / missing graphics / stripes that most AR210 have.....why? Rub-rail damage?
C- Inspect hull for any cracks or deformities. Especially the keel (run aground?) and by the trailer bow eye/roller area and stern tie-downs for spider cracks; check Speedo Pitot and depth sounder fittings (grounding damage?)
D- Jet pump impellers (get on your back underneath looking back with a flashlight) - check for no nicks on leading/outer edges and rust free is best. Jet nozzle condition (no ugly white deposits; (that cannot be cleaned?)
- Jet pump Clean out plug (x2) operation and condition- via access hatch on rear platform step.
- drive shaft and bearings - reach down into clean out and try to shake/move the shaft - any play is bad (intermediate bearings or rear of impeller /cone bearings)
- while in inside clean out hatch - open the inner portal hatch (with flashlight) - look for signs of water leaks, broken/missing pipe clamps (especially on exhaust through-hull and drive shaft tube).
E- Scupper for cockpit drain- upgraded to stainless. .. no? If not, inspect very closely- pull the flapper up and look around the circumference of the white plastic for cracking. (Stainless is a must upgrade- plastic will break and sink the boat.)
F- Trouble deck Soft spot? Deck around table insert bracket from failed caulk seal water enters and rots core wood of deck
G- Inspect deck / interior for any spider cracks. Especially at tower mount and cleats, hatch hinges areas.
H- Check upholstery for any tears. Check underneath each cushion for rip/breaks... mold? All cushions present (sun pad , step at center rear)?
I- Door/hatch gasket seals? Mold or mildew? Deck hatches and lockers? (Locker Storage door seal shrinks and separated?)
J- Windshield function, lock and seal? Windshield loose?
K- Wake board tow tower sound & secure?
L- Battery(s?), fuses and wiring - year, condition (test)?
M- Electronic components all work? (should be done and checked by mech inspection/survey in documented report). Vent fan, Bilge pump, ignitions and engine safety kill, lights, horn, radio, marine radio? Running and anchor lights?
N- Verify accessories- anchor, extinguisher, covers?, Bimini top and boot (cover) , tow tube , rope, life jackets? Fenders, lines. Umm.. keys, flush adapter, what else ??
O- Check the trailer. Look for bad rust, cracks in welds / beams. or dry rot tires. Visual insp is ok. (These are claimed to be all brand new, new brakes.??)
- hubs grease and seals. what type of grease used on hubs previously (cannot mix typically)
-brakes- fluid, rust?
-Winch functions?
-Electrical all functions?
ENGINE
A- OIL type used? (Yamaha lube marine 10w-40 is strongly recommended) when cold, the oil level should be between the low and halfway point (no more- this is serious overfill and damages engine!!). Then when it is hot the level rises to between the halfway point and full.
- smell the oil. (These MR1 engines run 8k rpm and more- they are very high and if they get cooked, they die hard, but rarely), milky water contamination? Bilge area clean?
B- Check for cacked engine block (or damaged gasket) - look under the exhaust manifold with a mirror or iPhone video - specifically at the #3 cylinder for any weird deposits on the crank case that indicate a leak. It is rare. It can happen (especially on older than 2011)
C- Engine compression numbers. They should all be close to each other. - all 8 nearly 180psi?? Cylinder drop test performance recorded.
D - Dash instrument lights flashing on tachs means they are telling you an error code (note No-wake mode flashing signal)
E - YDS read ECM will read all sorts of data from your Yamaha engine(run diagnostics on both)? This includes not just engine hours, but even the hours in specific RPM ranges! As well as overheat and other warnings, errors, etc. (purchase and will run this test)
F- Air-filters? Check condition . If oil soaked (overfilled engine) or wet .... bad.
G- Steering Operation? Play? Smooth?
H- Throttle Operations? Forward, neutral..... reverse function & smooth? But not sloppy loose (correct amount of friction?)
I- All the linkages can/should have grease. The service manual shows all the possible points. See the external linkages by pulling back the rubber boots if needed.
- what type of grease used previously - should be marine water proof (cannot mix typically)
J- Engine operating & Running-
Ashore: Hose hooked up (engine on, then hose on/hose off, then engine off). Inspect Coolant water circulation- check bypass outlets in side hull and both water discharge points through exhaust and outlet above jetpump (is there raw water/emergency tow shutoff valves added?)
— Listen to engines (knocks, ticks ... lifters are noisy but not “bad” sounding), note any water leaks, smell for exhaust or gas leaks?
— Listen to impellers out back - any blender metal rattle noise? (Drive shaft/Cone Bearings need attention ... or worse: jet pump wear ring can warp due to salt intrusion and corrosion of metals - look for wear /burn high spot)
K- In water- does it leak? (From where??) ???
- Observe closely all launch procedures (any issues ?)
L- After proper engine warming.... shutdown and check oil levels. Then, test if the boat can hit 10K RPM, go 44-49+ MPH or so on GPS. At all speeds- note any vibrations or sounds that would indicate bearing wear or worn impellers, how the boat steers and tracks, does it overheat, etc.
- Feell for precise boost “hole-shot” from standing - hit the throttles wide open and it throws you back, if you ease into it you can hide cavitation.
- While underway feel and listen for excessive vibration, knocks and surges. The boat should accelerate smoothly. Hold different RPM like 2500, 3000, 5000, 6000 etc and feel for vibrations.
M- No-wake mode work? Dash tach lights flash? Depth gauge and speedometer?
N- Observe closely all haul out, flush, wash procedures (any issues ?)
