Elite 4 HDI Install Advice and Writeup

[Seadeals]

My stock sounder is looking pretty rough and it only works when it feels like it. I was able to snag a Black Friday deal on a Lowrance Elite 4 HDI and will be installing with some member advice and documenting for future members. With our boating life, a large screen was not important to me. I value more simplistic attachment (single nesting bracket) over the cradle (U bracket) mounting to the sides of most other units. This unit with a RAM mount attached on the vertical just aft of the instrument panel will fill a void without getting in the way of anything or looking cumbersome.

I am mounting an LED volt meter in place of the original round sounder display on the panel (far left). I took the screws out of the darker gauge panel insert which makes wiring access a breeze. The volt meter will tap off the first breaker (unswitched power), the original sounder power (switched power) and the nav lights (for dimming function). With extremely low power draw I believe this will pose no issues. Let's start with question #1:

1. Should I make the effort to run dedicated wires from the batteries for the Elite 4? It uses a 3 amp fuse.

 

[Bruce]

The typical power consumption is .75 amps (10.5 watts). There is no need run a dedicated power cable.

 

[txav8r]

@Bruce , it sure doesn't need a dedicated cable, but piggybacking on any existing stock switch or source may not be a good idea, depending on the consumption and circuit that you attach to, you don't want to overload a circuit that is designed to support the stock system on it. Where are you suggesting he get his power from?

 

[Bruce]

Mel,

I have never been behind the dash of a 2006 SX210, so I can not describe the exact hookup. But almost every if not every power wire behind the dash in the Yamaha's I have looked at is sufficient to handle an additional .75 amp (10.5 watts) load.

The power consumption is not significantly different than the Norcross Hawkeye that he is replacing so those wires could be the power source although they are on the opposite side of the dash.

I would connect the new voltage meter to a key switched power supply so that it is not a drain when the boat is not running. I believe that the key switched positive power wires are purple. They run from the key switch.

The connectors at the back of the 12 volt power socket would be a good place to pick up power for the Elite 4. I am uncertain how large the breaker is for the 12 volt power socket, perhaps 20 amps (280 watts)? Connecting the Elite 4 here would decrease the power available to the socket by less than one amp when the Elite 4 is on.

Alternately it could be connected to the large red house power wire than runs from the battery. The Elite 4 likely has a fuse in its power cable. If not you may want to add a fuse or breaker if connecting directly to the house power wire.

 

[txav8r]

Picking up power from a keyed switch has presented other issues has it not? It has thrown codes because the YDS senses errant connection that is tested for the warning systems in the boat. And the 12v power supply is closer, if not 10A in our boats, and has been shown not to support much in the way of inflators rated over 10A at all. I realize the draw from a chart plotter is small, very small, but the additional load added to an existing circuit already designed to carry 80% for breaker protection, may push you over the margin. That said, using the 12v power supply connection again, if nothing more than a cell phone is ever tasking it, you will have no issue, but it your running the chart plotter indirectly from the back of that supply, and now have a million candlepower spot light powered trying to find your way at night, what is the draw? This is the very reason that pulling a 10G wire forward to the helm and putting in the switch/fuse panel that many of us have done is such a good idea...it takes some of the guesswork out of it. I do think however that if he eliminates the existing depth sounder and uses that connection, he is probably good to go, but probably not to run both on that same one.

 

[Bruce]

@txav8r, there are lots of loads that require new power wiring be installed from the battery but a less than 1 amp sounder / chart plotter certainly does not. If it was on top of other larger loads then it likely would. He is simply replacing a .4 amp sounder with a .75 amp sounder and a voltage gauge.

 

[Seadeals]

Gents, thanks for the dialogue! As always you make very valid points for consideration. Let's face it, with my being in aviation, there are lots of ways to install a Garmin GTN in the panel and have it work; but there can be a HUGE difference in what it looks like behind the panel and how it affects loads on other systems. I agree with you both.

I installed the volt meter tonight. Four wires control it.
1. Constant un-switched 12 volt supply (connected to the lighter plug terminal)
2. Switched 12 volt supply (used the switched 12 v that powered the old Hawkeye) no concerns about the keyed switch power as the load was already there, I just swapped it out for something else.
3. Light switch for dimming function (connected to nav light switch) it dims the display when other instrument lights come on.
4. Ground (used the old terminal the Hawkeye used to use)

It is really neat to watch the voltage drop when you turn on the blower and recover. It makes me curious to look up the wattage of the blower.

As for the sounder, I'll explain what I decide later. Here is question #2.

2. Should I pass the wires through notches in the panel insert (photo 1) or drill the ~1" hole in the side of the hull wall (red circle in second pic)?



On this question, I will disclose I am leaning towards the more invasive option of drilling a dedicated hole. With a nice grommet, the cables can easily retract into to the hole when not connected. I am open to opinions on this one. I have also considered but ruled out passing through the stereo mount sandwich structure but do not want any additional stress there. Thanks to everyone for input.

 

[txav8r]

I drilled a dedicated hole and placed a rubber grommet in it to pass the wires through. The grommet would occasionally pull out as the drag on the wiring and the rubber grommet would grab occasionally. But it was a far sight better IMO. I could have the wires completely out of sight and only the connector sitting on the grommet. Plenty of guys just ran a 12V ACC connector for power but still had to have the transducer cable exposed. I just see it as a neatness thing, like your used to in aviation. Kind of like the wiring, a right way, and a wrong way, but either will get the job done...sometimes having an overseeing authority that can inspect and fine you is a big motivator to keep it the right way! lol

 

[Seadeals]

Thanks. We think alike so here it is. I still need to get a grommet and run the transducer but I am going to make a lake run first to change the oil and try out my new TVXLs.

A few details to share... I did not like the supplied sheet metal type screws as the fiberglass there is pretty thin and I did not want sharp screw points sticking through near where the wires retract. I searched through my stock of hardware and decided on aluminum rivets with a rubber grommet against the back side of the Fiberglass then a fender washer. It drew up very tight with no stress on the glass. Here are a few pics.


Oh, and I should mention how much I enjoy snaking my body into the forward storage to gain access down the starboard side (sarcasm). There is a very specific sequence of movements needed for each and every body type. Getting out of there makes me feel young; but worry how much longer I can do that.

 

[Seadeals]

Now on to the transducer installation. Here is the factory location and wire routing.

Here is the pass-through on the inside. The drain hose is disconnected for access. The mound of silicone around the wire has been cut away.

The Lowrance connector is significantly larger than the plug used on the stock sounder, so a transom mount will require enlarging the existing hole or a new one.

I want to transom mount the transducer and I do not want any new holes, so I plan to enlarge the existing pass-through. This will be difficult as the exterior access to the existing hole is obstructed by the mounting plate for the jet pump. Here is a view with the pump pulled (very easy since my refurb a couple years ago). The old transducer cable has been cut to allow it to be used pulling the new wire through.

The larger Lowrance connector does not have room to fit through a hole perpendicular; but if the hole is angled/elongated slightly it can probably work though keeping the hole as small as possible is best. Removing the top right bolt on the mount plate will likely help. Removing the mounting plate would eliminate the conflict; but this piece is sealed and bolted through the hull (see the nut in the bottom middle of the second photo).

Has anyone removed the pump mount plate? I think I will work around it; but if it is less of a chore to remove and install than I suspect, I may consider it. I am hesitant due to the sealing and risk of messing with things mounted through the hull.

Thanks for any input.

 

[Bruce]

I used this fitting https://jetboaters.net/threads/seachoice-17921-3-4-thru-hull-cable-fitting.1805/

 

[Seadeals]

Thanks. That is a good option for the purpose. The Lowrance connector will require a 1" hole or a matching connector pattern (torx shape) that is exactly .960" at its widest. Since they located the pass through in front of the drain fitting close to the radius in the hull, there will not be room for something like that. I considered swapping the drain to the transducer hole (enlarged) but the flange would get into the hull radius. Per your post, I will definitely go check the box for any such goodies they may have included.

 

[Seadeals]

I ended up using a 3/4" Perko through-hull fitting. The 1" OD means the transducer connector just fits through the nut. The flange and nut diameter were also just small enough to fit in the space. The hole was carefully enlarged with a round file and Dremel with small sanding cylinder. Nothing else was possible due to interference with the transom plate and drain fitting. The fitting was cut off at .8" of threads (hull thickness was .4" and nut thickness was .4". Any longer and you could never get it into the hole. A slit was cut down the length to pass the cable. The end was also notched as shown to (barely) allow the fitting and cable to twist into position between the hull and pump transom plate. The fitting will be sealed to the hull with 4200. Once set and when the transducer is mounted, the hollow center will be filled in with silicone.



Fitting without the cable was easy enough. Adding the cable made it VERY tight and tricky to get the fitting back in the hole- the tightest fit possible is the idea. Here it is ready to install with 4200.

I am glad I was able to make it work without pulling the transom plate.

 

[Mark Miller]

That's really helpful, thanks!!

 

[txav8r]

I am a little confused as to why you used the threaded through hull fitting and then siliconed the hell out of it. You can certainly do this without the fitting and just pull the cable and silicone it. It still comes out clean. It looks nice, I just don't think it is necessary. But hey, I am the king of overkill, so don't take any of this as criticism, it isn't! I just want guys to know all they have to do is drill the hole and pull the cable. Filling it with silicone is a must. Do Not Drill Below the Waterline...up like you have it is perfect!

 

[Seadeals]

No worries. I went this route primarily due to the fact that a 1" (big) hole is required for the lowrance connector. You can see there are also two screw holes on each side from the old cable cover and I liked the idea of having the flanges cover them and force the 4200 into the holes. Also with two large holes so close together (like minimum aircraft rivet spacing) the extra rigidity (aka doubler) provided by the fitting gave me a little more peace of mind. The final reason is the fitting reduces the diameter of silicone required from a full 1" down to 3/4" with a rigid cylinder to better support any flexing loads on the silicone.

I notice in other posts (boat models) the the drain fitting is in front of the transducer pass-through. That would have been great and allowed use of the cool cable fitting @Bruce used.

 

[txav8r]

Did you remove your clean out tray or just work through the inspection port? I fully understand the hatred of the 1" diameter hole needed for the cable connector. I notice on my new Garmin that the manual says to drill a 5/8" (16mm) hole for the transducer cable connector pass-thru...yet the connector is almost 7/8" diameter. These chart plotters require a large hole to pass the cable through. When I did my previous boat, I used the same hole that the stock speedo cable came through and enlarged it. I had to have an even larger hole because of both cables coming through the same hole. The more I think about sealing that hole up and the pass thru cover that Garmin provides, requiring an additional two holes for screws to secure it, your nylon thru hull fitting is looking better and better. My biggest concern, as it should be, is leak integrity. The fewer areas to leak the better. My initial concern with the thru hull fitting was that you had to seal the outside of it, the inside, the nut, the flange, and the fitting itself being cut through can now flex. So I wonder about how well I can get something like that not to leak. That is all the more reason for a fitted thru hull transducer I think...but there goes another $150. In all, there is always more than one way to skin a cat!

 

[txav8r]

I found a Garmin thru-hull with temp and sonar for $88. I ordered it. It will make life easier and give me a better signal, not to mention an easier install! Anyone need a Garmin transom mount cheap?

 

[Seadeals]

Thanks for the input. It has helped me along the way. The transducer bracket was too wide to properly fit in the original location and I liked the forum member-tested and approved location by the drain plug. I wish I could have mounted a little higher to plow less when at speed; but it I still closer to skimming than the old one.

I shared your concern about the cut in the thru-hull, but the fitting I used is very hard plastic. I played with it after cutting and shaping and can confidently say it will not be flexing any.

 

[Seadeals]

Finished installation with grommet installed in hole for wiring.

View showing relative size to helm.