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FSH 252/255 Trolling Motor Project

Zackdadams

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Here is a detailed walk-through of my Trolling Motor project.
I would like to thank many members of the community for their input, and I'll be linking to different posts about these ideas.

20220305_103025.jpg

Trolling Motor: Motorguide Xi5 72" 105lbs 36v with Pinpoint GPS
Battery: Dakota Lithium 36v 63AH LiFePO4 Battery
Shuttleslide UHD Mount

Step 1: Power
I decided to go with a Lithium battery, to keep down on weight, overall performance, and longevity.
I chose a Dakota Lithium 36v 63AH Battery. (Amp Hour is the overall run time)

20220305_131449.jpg

It comes with a battery charger.
This should provide hours of use, which fits my casual fishing style.
If you are a more serious angler, you might consider a 100AH power source.

I've installed it inside a Noco HM408 Battery Box.

20220305_103726.jpg

I've seen this installed in our boat from a Facebook post.
It fits perfectly, and makes for a clean, safe install.
You'll need to put the battery inside the box first, then slide it into place in the changing room.
I installed Velcro strips to the bottom of the battery, then lowered it into place inside the box.
This should keep it from sliding and bouncing around.
I drilled small pilot holes, then ran 1-1/4" stainless lag bolts with washers to lock it in place.

20220305_133234.jpg

I ran #6 pure copper wire from the changing room to the trolling motor.

The wire is installed inside 1" split tubing.
You'll need to remove the black speaker and cup holder piece first, as well as the front seat.
Here's a detailed post from member @PerkDaddy on how to do that.

20220305_104541.jpg 20220306_122412.jpg
I'm installing a quick release Motorguide Power Outlet.

20220305_112149.jpg 20220305_110812.jpg

I chose a location for the outlet that it tucked away as much as possible, so someone can still sit there without any cords in their way.
Afterwards, I applied painters tape to keep from chipping the gel coat.
You'll want to run your hole saw in reverse until you get through the gel coat, then switch to forward to finish.
I believe it was an 1-1/4" hole saw.
Make sure to check behind the area for wires prior to drilling.

I drilled small holes for the bolts, and used #6 stainless pan-head bolts with washers and nuts to secure the outlet in place.
I'll attach some pictures below with the measurements for the location.
I then applied some dielectric grease inside my connectors, and slid on some heat-shrink tubing.
Afterwards, I crimped my connectors, heated the shrink tubing, added some split tubing, and taped everything up secure.
I'll attach some additional pictures of this below.

20220305_143558.jpg 20220305_121618.jpg
Next I soldered on some pure copper battery terminals with heat shrink tubing.
I installed a 60amp waterproof circuit breaker, and attached the wires to the battery, and charger.

I installed Velcro to the bottom of the battery charger, and the circuit breaker.
Note: I'll need to test for heat on this soon, so I don't damage anything.
The Noco box has holes in it, so I'm hoping there's enough ventilation.
EDIT: After the charger was running for a couple hours I checked, and it's getting pretty hot.
So i've installed a small piece of ceramic tile under the charger, and i'll keep lid off when charging.

20220305_143803.jpg

I then ran a 25' waterproof extension cord from the charger to the back of the boat.
I used my Klein Glow Rods to reach under the floor.

Without getting off topic too much, I decided to go ahead and install a Noco dual battery charger for the existing batteries.

20220306_134026.jpg 20220306_175228.jpg

I installed a Noco power outlet, with 2 leads.

I had to remove the front and rear white plastic inside the battery storage area.
I also removed both cup holders from the area.

I plugged in the 25' extension cord, and the new Noco charger.
I drilled small pilot holes, and used the provided screws to finalize the port.
Now I can plug in the entire boat at once, and charge everything!

20220306_160157.jpg

Power is done! On to the actual Trolling Motor!
 

Attachments

Last edited:

Zackdadams

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Step 2: Trolling Motor and Mount

The Trolling Motor is a 72" Motorguide Xi5 105Lbs 36v.

I'll be installing a Motorguide quick release plate also.
20220305_144940.jpg

The mount is what most are installing, a Shuttleslide SS-7-UHD with BMAP-RE Plate.
Make sure to specify your install with Shuttleslide so they send the correct equipment.
20220305_144827.jpg

The first thing you need to do is flip the trolling motor upside down so you can install the quick release and Shuttleslide plate.
I laid a towel down on my front live well. It made for a nice work table.

20220306_084412.jpg

Start by removing the 2 sides of the motor.
They are held on by 2 sets of phillips head screws.

Next attach the quick release plate to the trolling motor.
20220306_090014.jpg

Disassemble the Shuttleslide mount.
Attach the other part of the quick release plate to the Shuttleslide BMAP-RE plate.

20220306_093715.jpg

Attach the slide rails to the top plate of the Shuttleslide.
You'll want to leave them slightly loose.
Set this down into the motor mount, and install the u-shape locking mechanism.
Slide on the nylon guide rail, and test for fit and function.
I found I needed to adjust this a few times for a firm but secure fit.

20220306_093729.jpg 20220306_095352.jpg

Next, reassemble the Trolling motor sides.
Then set the Shuttleslide bottom plate down on the nylon slide rail.
20220306_095402.jpg

We are ready to figure out a mounting location.
Apply painters tape to area, and carefully flip over the trolling motor, and place on the painters tape.
20220306_100910.jpg

I wanted to make sure the trolling motor shaft was well inside the boat, so I adjusted the angle until I was happy.
I took a sharpy and drew an outline of the bottom plate position.
I adjusted even more, and drew my final outline.
Then I lifted off the trolling motor, and placed it back on my live well work table.
Afterwards, I drilled 4x 1/4" pilot holes, and used the provided stainless bolts to attach the plate to the hull.
20220306_103127.jpg 20220306_110151.jpg

Next attach the nylon guide rail to the Shuttleslide top and bottom plates.
Slide the guide rails and quick release back on the slide rails, and check again for fit and function.
I once again had to make minor adjustments.
20220306_112145.jpg 20220306_112108.jpg

Finally, flip the motor over and set it down on the quick release plate.
Install the u-shaped locking ring to lock in down.
Deploy the motor, and check again for fit and function.
Once you're happy, it's time to connect the power.

Cut, crimp, and heat-shrink the motor pigtail to the quick release power plug.
I personally added heat-shrink to the entire cable, then split tubing afterwards.
20220306_115758.jpg 20220306_131741.jpg

Now, i've seen many friends trolling motors bouncing around over the years.
One friend driving next to me came close to losing his in heavy conditions, and it almost flew overboard.
So I installed a RAM Mount arm to secure it even further.

20220306_123234.jpg 20220306_131000.jpg

Attach the prop, reassemble the seating area, and the installation is complete!

20220306_112719.jpg 20220306_131527.jpg

Drink a beer, boil some crawfish and celebrate!
It only took you weeks of planning, ordering, and installing!
(Did I mention a boat load of $$$?!)
20220305_112655.jpg 20220305_173934.jpg
 
Last edited:

FSH 210 Sport

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Excellent posting Zack!! Thanks for the time and effort to make this post!
 

Tpowie12

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Hey Zach- awesome work and thanks for posting. Have you hooked up the motorguide to the simrad? If not, do you plan to do so?
 

Julian

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I was going to, but decided against it for now.
I have NMEA 2000 installed on the boat if I want to in the future.
I'm not that much of a serious angler. :cool:
Have you had the boat out yet? How does it hold in wind and current? Does the lack of a big outboard change the way it tracks?

Great write up!!! Added to the FAQ!!!
 

LeonPhelps

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Thank you Zack, I feel more confident doing the install myself now.
 

BroadOak

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Thanks for the write-up.. I pretty much copied everything you did here.. as far as purchasing products.. i have not bought the charger or pigtail yet.. i saw it was a 12v charger and was just wondering how that works with the 36v lithium.. forgive the ignorance but just want to have all my ducks in a row prior to getting this done.. and overall is there anything you would have done differently?
 

Zackdadams

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I used the 36 volt charger included with my lithium battery.

The NOCO dual charger is for my existing House and Starter batteries.

I guess I should have mentioned that the Dakota Lithium comes with a 36 volt charger.
You can see it clearly in one of the pictures I uploaded.
 

BroadOak

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Ok.. i get it.. so when you plug in.. you are only charing the house and starter.. not the trolling motor battery.. i also did not order the shudder slide mount.. but after taking a closer look at yours.. i think it needs to be on there.. i was originally going to just use the yamaha mount that came with the boat..
 

Zackdadams

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When I plug into the rear of the boat, I am charging my house, starter, and trolling motor batteries.

Many people have posted videos from the factory mount, and it's not very sturdy.

These large trolling motors we use create a tremendous amount of thrust, and will flex, bend and even break the factory mount.

I personally did not want to take a chance since it's such an expensive project.
 
Last edited:

Paradise231

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Hey guys I have a 255 and want to do the trolling motor. Has anyone tried the install on other side. Don’t like how it will interfere with the live well when not deployed.
 

LeonPhelps

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@Paradise231 do yourself a favour and get a Minn Kota, these motorguides are garbage. Mine has been in the shop twice already because the GPS module failed, prop fell off once even though I know it was tight when I installed it. They feel very cheap compared to my old Minn Kota. And most off all I dont think it can handles the wind or waves very well, and Im not talking about big wind or waves.

I think someone did mount on the other side, I will see if I can find the post.
 

Paradise231

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@Paradise231 do yourself a favour and get a Minn Kota, these motorguides are garbage. Mine has been in the shop twice already because the GPS module failed, prop fell off once even though I know it was tight when I installed it. They feel very cheap compared to my old Minn Kota. And most off all I dont think it can handles the wind or waves very well, and Im not talking about big wind or waves.

I think someone did mount on the other side, I will see if I can find the post.
Thanks
 

Scott N

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Hi @Zackdadams, great post! I am ordering my motor and parts and plan to install on my own as well. However, I am going with the Minn Kota Riptide Terrova 36v motor. Can you share how much runtime you’re getting with the Dakota 36v 63Ah battery. I’m torn between this and alternatives with 100Ah. Thanks
 

Zackdadams

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I only use the trolling motor very casually for a few hours at a time, so if you're wanting much longer run time you may want to go with the 100AH.

From my research I should be able to get around 6+ hours from this 63 AH battery.
 

FSH 210 Sport

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I have a 210 FSH with the Rip Tide Ulterra and I have 100Ah batteries.

The run time is highly dependent on how much thrust the troller is making… the Rip Tide Ulterra I have is 60 some amps at full output. But, MinnKota does not recommend running above 85% with the LiFePO4 batteries or the unit can over heat and then it will be roached.

Most of the time on calm days if its running about prop speed 5, sorry I can’t remember how many amps its drawing at that level, but I can get 12 hours at that level and draw the 100Ah battery bank down to 20% state of charge. If its a windy day and the prop speed is up around 7-8 I can get about 8-10 hours out of it.
 
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