Fuel Gauge

[Jeff0319]

My fuel gauge crapped out last season and it is on my to do list this year. I have read where it could be a simple adjustment, but wanted to ask if I should go ahead and order a new fuel sending unit. If so, is there an aftermarket part to the F2a-U824B-00-00? Also, what is the trick to getting the bolts to the fuel tank lid unstuck? I have the square drive bit, but I have about six that won't budge. I've tightened them and sprayed with everything I know of, but they wont budge. I don't want to drill them out, but that is my next step. Great site guys!!!

 

[itsdgm]

Yeah. That's a tough one. I luckily was able to remove mine a few seasons ago to make an adjustment to my sending unit. None of mine were stuck. Some of them are stripped, but none are stuck. Also, I'd replace the old bolts with stainless Phillips headed bolts too. I think that's what Yamaha uses now anyways. Let me know if you want to see pics. I'm pretty sure I have several pics of what exactly is under there.

 

[Julian]

@OperationROL I think battled his floor bolts. Not sure about the fuel sender after market options

 

[Jeff0319]

Thanks guys. I have done some research on the web and haven't found anything as far as aftermarket. I guess I'm going to try to adjust first and see how it works out. I hate to have to drill out the bolts, but it looking like that is what I have to do. I appreciate the responses. Dennis, do you know what size Phillips head bolts you bought?

 

[itsdgm]

Thanks guys. I have done some research on the web and haven't found anything as far as aftermarket. I guess I'm going to try to adjust first and see how it works out. I hate to have to drill out the bolts, but it looking like that is what I have to do. I appreciate the responses. Dennis, do you know what size Phillips head bolts you bought?

No. I don't know what size they are. You would have to pull one and match it at a hardware store. Sorry

 

[ToddW850]

As far as the floor bolts, I too couldn't get 6-7 off when I did my fuel tank inspection last year. I soaked them off and on for severtal days with a Liquid Wrench type spray. Didn't help. The ones I did get off, I had to have my son push down on a large phillips screwdriver while I turned the screwdriver with vice grips. For the ones that wouldn't budge, I had to drill the heads of them off. Matter of fact, I still have to figure out how to get the remanants of what's left of the screws out.

 

[OperationROL]

Mine came out easily once I found something to fit the head. After I removed mine, I switched them out for ones that had a more common head (hex). I would suggest letting them soak for a few days before trying again.

 

[Jeff0319]

Thanks for the responses, I spent a little time working on the boat last weekend and all I have left is 3 bolts. I think I can get two, with penetrating oil, but I have totally screwed up one. I will have to cut or drill this one.

 

[Scottintexas]

having the correct tool was the hardest for me, I tried key stock, the flat head screwdriver and they worked for all but three of mine, once I bought the correct bit the others were extremely difficult with the "tighten/loosen/tighten/loosen" method but finally came out. For your stripped one you may try to destroy the head with a dremel so you can lift the floor off, then you will have much more room to work and maybe get some vice grips on the remaining part. Mine came up with some white, chalky material so I think they used some sort of adhesive when they installed them. I remember somebody posting a replacement and since you have the same type as Mel I but he has it stashed away in his files @txav8r

 

[marc7]

For what its worth, I did the adjustment trick 2 years ago and have not had any issues since.

Cheers!

 

[txav8r]

Scott, don't you have the same bolts (fuel tank floor cover) as me? Rather that used to be me? Carbuddie sent me one of the 3/16" square drives (3/8"?) he bought. I can't remember the exact size, but it isn't standard and you don't find it in a home center... Sorry I don't remember the exact size. I haven't seen carbuddie here either. Gonna go look for contact info for him.

 

[Jeff0319]

Thanks!! The thing is, I bought the Yamaha tool, around $20, to remove these bolts. The three bolts in question are in line with each other and I think they are just really bonded. I will be buying replacement bolts, but it has just been a PITA to get this cover off. My boat is stored at our lake house and I have limited tools there. I think I'm going to tow it home when the weather gets warm. This winter is just holding on and it really sucks!! Hell, its the end of March and it was snowing in north Alabama yesterday!!

 

[Stendy]

There is a tool called an impact screwdriver. It is basically a spring loaded tool that accepts different bits (square, torx, Phillips, ect). You rotate the tool counter clockwise to set the spring, insert the tool in to the screw head just like a screwdriver, you then smack the tool with a hammer. The shock of the blow along with the spring mechanism shocks the bolt and loosens it. Sometimes it takes a few hits but it generally works.

 

[Jeff0319]

Thanks, I'm planning on taking my cordless impact driver this weekend. Hopefully I can get the other two out. The one head that is screwed up is the one I worked on before I got the Yamaha #4 square head bit. I'm planning on cutting the head with a dremal tool and getting a large flat head screwdriver after it. I highly recommend, at least, turning the fuel cover screws every so often to keep them from locking up!!!

 

[Stendy]

My '05 SX230 has a hinged hatch to access my fuel pumps and sending unit. So I'll never have the bolt problem. Unfortunately if the tank ever had a problem I'm screwed because the access is small, but how often do tanks fail? Lol

 

[waterboy]

I have to look at mine this spring too. When you get access, before you replace it, let me share where I am at...

I had to do a minor adjustment to mine after a couple of years with the boat but it really has performed perfect. 2 years ago, I was at Lake Gaston and filled up with ethanol free fuel, which I normally cannot find and do not use. Ever since then, my fuel gauge has been screwed up. It reads from about 1/2 to 3/4 tank from empty to full. By the end of the first season and putting a bunch of ethanol fuel through the tank, it was almost better. Last spring, Lake Gaston and more ethanol free fuel. Same problem. I am going to try to re-calibrate and see what happens this year.

I have to assume that the resistivity of the ethanol fuel is so much different from the normal fuel and that is why it is screwed up. Possible solutions - never use ethanol fuel?? replace gauge with different type?? I am not sure what to do.

Thought I would share this with you.

Has anyone seen issues with ethanol free vs ethanol fuel??? I am at a loss as to what would cause this.

 

[Jeff0319]

It's funny you mention the gas. I've always used non ethanol gas, but last year the gas station near where I store my boat stopped carrying it. I would just buy stabil for ethanol, but this around the time the gauge quit working.

 

[waterboy]

I found this quote that came up on a search that was on a NASCAR website. "ethanol is more flammable and doesn’t work well with fuel gauges that use capacitance measurements (not an issue on NASCAR cars, which only measure fuel pressure)." So it is the difference in conductivity of the various gasolines that is causing gauges problems or more so really the mixing of different types of gases. If you have one gas and can stay with it, calibrate your gauge accordingly.

I am not sure what type of gauges are used in all of our boats. I do know that my vintage (2007) is a capacitance gauge. It has been the BEST boat gauge I have ever used... until my gas issue.

 

[itsdgm]

I found this quote that came up on a search that was on a NASCAR website. "ethanol is more flammable and doesn’t work well with fuel gauges that use capacitance measurements (not an issue on NASCAR cars, which only measure fuel pressure)." So it is the difference in conductivity of the various gasolines that is causing gauges problems or more so really the mixing of different types of gases. If you have one gas and can stay with it, calibrate your gauge accordingly.

I am not sure what type of gauges are used in all of our boats. I do know that my vintage (2007) is a capacitance gauge. It has been the BEST boat gauge I have ever used... until my gas issue.

That's good to know. I had no idea that the type of gas could affect the gauge reading. Thanks @waterboy

 

[Jeff0319]

Thanks for the help guys! I believe I have it fixed, but won't know for sure until I get the boat on the water. I had to drill two of the screws, but was successful at that. I have read previously that the newer boats now have a Phillips head screw instead of the square head. Does anyone know if the part # 90149-10sc4-00 is the Phillips head or square head?