PaulyB
Jetboaters Commander
- Messages
- 711
- Reaction score
- 475
- Points
- 187
- Location
- Bumpass, VA
- Boat Make
- Yamaha
- Year
- 2008
- Boat Model
- AR
- Boat Length
- 23
So back in November, I bought my 2008 AR23o and the madness began. I began planning out my stereo system and the mods that I would like to have done by the spring. Here are some pics of what I have done so far.... Enjoy
Oh and please done mind the dirtyness, it will be getting a full cleaning very soon...
Dual Group 27 Flooded Acid Batteries, totally isolated from the starter battery. 1 Group 24 battery for the starter circuit. I plan on using the stereo a lot at a local sand bar, and do not think I will be able to utilize the stator from the engines to sufficiently charge the House bank, so I just left it totally isolated and did not even connect it to the started circuit with a switch. I installed a Minn Kota MK-345PC triple bank on-board charging for shore charging when I get back to a dock or home for the night.
I installed my battery switch, two battery status indicators, a switch and my 200 amp breaker in the storage area under the port side under the observers seat. The small black switch controls the battery indicators and turns them on and off as seen in the picture below. I wired the battery indicators to the posts on the battery switch, so when the battery switch is on the off position, each display reads its own battery, but when it is on both, both will read the same voltage because they equalize together.
Battery indicators on
Wet Sounds HT-6 Class D amp to power 4 6.5 inch Kicker in-boats and 1 Subwoofer and Wet Sounds SD-2 Class D to power 4 Wet Sounds REV8 Tower Speakers.
4 Wet Sounds REV8 Tower Speakers
2 Seperate RGB Controllers so the two outside speakers light up a different color than the two inside tower speakers.
I used two sets of 5 wire RGB wires to run into the tower to control the two separate channels of RGBs. I used 5 wire conductor to run a power and ground to the tow point mounted nav light.
Blue Seas Fuse block to distribute power to my two RGB controllers and Wet Sounds 420-SQ equalizer.
I hated the fact that I could not see the face of the radio while standing up and driving the boat, so I relocated the radio into the original mounting area for the No Wake Mode Switches, and moved the No Wake Mode Switches to the Radio area.
Kicker KM654LCW 6.5 inch Component Speakers with built in RGB lights.
Kicker KM654LCW 6.5 inch Component Speakers with built in RGB lights.
Kicker KM654LCW 6.5 inch Component Speakers with built in RGB lights.
Kicker KM654LCW 6.5 inch Component Speakers with built in RGB lights.
Kicker KM654LCW 6.5 inch Component Speakers with built in RGB lights.
Kicker KM654LCW 6.5 inch Component Speakers with built in RGB lights.
Minn Kota MK-345PC 3-bank 45 amp (15 amp per bank) on board battery charger. Since I moved my Anchor light to the tow point, I installed a plug adapter in the original Anchor light hole.
I am almost done with my spring mods, I just bought the Garmin EchoMAP50dv from West Marine over the weekend while they were having their sale and will be creating a new dash panel and installing it in the Dash in the next few days hopefully.
Oh and please done mind the dirtyness, it will be getting a full cleaning very soon...
Dual Group 27 Flooded Acid Batteries, totally isolated from the starter battery. 1 Group 24 battery for the starter circuit. I plan on using the stereo a lot at a local sand bar, and do not think I will be able to utilize the stator from the engines to sufficiently charge the House bank, so I just left it totally isolated and did not even connect it to the started circuit with a switch. I installed a Minn Kota MK-345PC triple bank on-board charging for shore charging when I get back to a dock or home for the night.
I installed my battery switch, two battery status indicators, a switch and my 200 amp breaker in the storage area under the port side under the observers seat. The small black switch controls the battery indicators and turns them on and off as seen in the picture below. I wired the battery indicators to the posts on the battery switch, so when the battery switch is on the off position, each display reads its own battery, but when it is on both, both will read the same voltage because they equalize together.
Battery indicators on
Wet Sounds HT-6 Class D amp to power 4 6.5 inch Kicker in-boats and 1 Subwoofer and Wet Sounds SD-2 Class D to power 4 Wet Sounds REV8 Tower Speakers.
4 Wet Sounds REV8 Tower Speakers
2 Seperate RGB Controllers so the two outside speakers light up a different color than the two inside tower speakers.
I used two sets of 5 wire RGB wires to run into the tower to control the two separate channels of RGBs. I used 5 wire conductor to run a power and ground to the tow point mounted nav light.
Blue Seas Fuse block to distribute power to my two RGB controllers and Wet Sounds 420-SQ equalizer.
I hated the fact that I could not see the face of the radio while standing up and driving the boat, so I relocated the radio into the original mounting area for the No Wake Mode Switches, and moved the No Wake Mode Switches to the Radio area.
Kicker KM654LCW 6.5 inch Component Speakers with built in RGB lights.
Kicker KM654LCW 6.5 inch Component Speakers with built in RGB lights.
Kicker KM654LCW 6.5 inch Component Speakers with built in RGB lights.
Kicker KM654LCW 6.5 inch Component Speakers with built in RGB lights.
Kicker KM654LCW 6.5 inch Component Speakers with built in RGB lights.
Kicker KM654LCW 6.5 inch Component Speakers with built in RGB lights.
Minn Kota MK-345PC 3-bank 45 amp (15 amp per bank) on board battery charger. Since I moved my Anchor light to the tow point, I installed a plug adapter in the original Anchor light hole.
I am almost done with my spring mods, I just bought the Garmin EchoMAP50dv from West Marine over the weekend while they were having their sale and will be creating a new dash panel and installing it in the Dash in the next few days hopefully.
