Impeller question

[Avega]

Can I manually turn the impeller from the clean out or from under the boat through the grate?
I had sucked up some seaweed. Luckily I was heading to the sand bar. I cleaned out the best that I could through the clean out. I put on my googles and went under the boat through the grate and got out more, but I could feel between the blades and the inner wall something like a wood chip wedged. I tried to twist the impeller but it wouldn’t budge.

 

[Beachbummer]

Well, you might be able to if you are unnaturally very very strong.

You would be turning over the engine...so it's normal that it would not turn by hand. You could bump the starter and hope the new position is better than the last one.... Just keep any limbs you want to keep out of the way.

 

[Avega]

Thanks, I figured. Sucking up seaweed is the worst

 

[swatski]

The only way would be if you remove the spark plugs, and use a belt over the coupler - inside the engine bay, in front of the intermediate bearing housing.

Bumping it with a starter seems like a much better idea, if it moves.
The cleanout hatch switches disable the starter (when the hatch is open).

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[swatski]

Thanks, I figured. Sucking up seaweed is the worst

If all else fails, pulling the pump on the trailer is not a big job, 30min once you know what you are after.





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[Beachbummer]

Why would you not pull the other 4 bolts closer to the boat (plus the 10mm one), so the whole pump and shaft come out in one piece? It's a tiny bit more trouble to push back the shaft when you are done, but access is 10X better... Honest question as I see the method above recommended quite a bit, but I feel removing the whole pump makes it that much easier to access whatever stuff might be on there. I pulled a 2 liter plastic bottle once... in a few pieces.

I guess your way it is quite easier to put it back, as you don't have to deal with the shaft...have you ever had to do the next step to pull something stubborn?

 

[swatski]

Why would you not pull the other 4 bolts closer to the boat (plus the 10mm one), so the whole pump and shaft come out in one piece? It's a tiny bit more trouble to push back the shaft when you are done, but access is 10X better... Honest question as I see the method above recommended quite a bit, but I feel removing the whole pump makes it that much easier to access whatever stuff might be on there. I pulled a 2 liter plastic bottle once... in a few pieces.

I guess your way it is quite easier to put it back, as you don't have to deal with the shaft...have you ever had to do the next step to pull something stubborn?

Hmm... This is what I pull out with the method above, the stator segment (AKA impeller housing/main pump bearing) with the impeller and the shaft...


In that scenario, the wear ring is left attached to the transom plate. Taking that off is very easy with venturi w/bucket and stator segment off. It is 5 short bolts from there, 4 large one and one small.
I hate messing with the 5th smaller bolt there, very easy to strip (please don't ask, lol).

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[Beachbummer]

Ahh... I see... and does the pump not come apart for you when you pull it this way?

 

[Gym]

Next time you suck up some seaweed try the reverse maneuver. 1) Go in reverse a few mph. 2) Pull safety lanyard out to kill both engines. 3) Quickly put both throttle levers in forward. This will reverse the flow of water through the pumps and intake tunnels and usually flush out anything that's not stuck hard. Don't forget to restart your engines before celebrating your brilliance to your guests.

 

[Avega]

Next time you suck up some seaweed try the reverse maneuver. 1) Go in reverse a few mph. 2) Pull safety lanyard out to kill both engines. 3) Quickly put both throttle levers in forward. This will reverse the flow of water through the pumps and intake tunnels and usually flush out anything that's not stuck hard. Don't forget to restart your engines before celebrating your brilliance to your guests.

Thank you for that advice!!

 

[swatski]

Ahh... I see... and does the pump not come apart for you when you pull it this way?

33 (bucket), 30 (steering nozzle), and 27 (venturi nozzle) come off together
7 (stator segment) w/21 (cone) and 10 (cooling water inlet) comes off along w/24 (impeller) and 18 (shaft) attached - grease the splines before reassembly
3 (wear ring) stays on, bolted to 1 (transom plate)
use blue RV silicone between segments okay but not required; the worst gaps (performance killing, cavitation inducing) are usually betweent he transom plate and the transom and between transom plate and the wear ring, and inside the intake tunnel; I currently use fiber-bondo with very good results for pump "porting" (sealing gaps)

 

[Beachbummer]

Thanks, I have so far removed bolts 4 and 6 instead of 29 on the diagram concerned the main pieces will fall apart on removal. I thought there was an advantage to how I was doing it as all the pieces are secured together, but I like you way quite a bit because it seems easier to align back with the help of the wear ring. I appreciate the info!!!

 

[swatski]

Thanks, I have so far removed bolts 4 and 6 instead of 29 on the diagram concerned the main pieces will fall apart on removal. I thought there was an advantage to how I was doing it as all the pieces are secured together, but I like you way quite a bit because it seems easier to align back with the help of the wear ring. I appreciate the info!!!

Yes, and the dowels help the alignment.
Also note all flyboarding dudes do it that way, except they don't remove the stator and just take off the Venturi+steering+bucket and bolt the flyboarding hose pump nozzle with those long bolt going through the stator segment - its's the fastest way.

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[Betik]

@Avega please be very careful next time you decide to go under the boat with goggles on. Sticking your hand in the crate while your boat is in the water can turn out real bad real quick.