Looking for advice on a 2017 212X stereo upgrade

[Dave burke]

Thanks to all that I’ve learned about stereos by following all the experts on this site, I’m thinking about a series upgrade to my stereo.

Before I get into what I’m thinking of changing, here’s what’s in the boat currently (all factory installed):
- Polk DB651’s in the bow and rear cabin
- Polk db521’s on the swim deck
- WS Stealth 10 soundbar
- Polk MM1040UM sub
- Polk 5 channel amp, PAD5000.5, 70w x 4, 200w x 1 RMS @ 4 ohms
- bow and rear cabin speakers are wired in series; same thing for the soundbar and swim deck speakers

Here’s what I’m thinking of doing:

1. Add a pair of front cabin speakers, ideally db651’s. I’d like to mount them high like several others have done. Not sure I can do that given the offset shape of the black liner (pics included). Maybe I can mount a smaller speaker like a 5.25 in. Which begs the question, am I better to do this or mount the 651’s down low

2. Change the swim deck speakers to db651’s. I think they’ll fit

3. Change the sub to a JL M10IB5. Should I consider the JL MX sub or maybe a WS IB sub?

4. Wire the bow and front cabin speakers in parallel. Do the same with the rear cabin and swim deck speakers

5. Use the polk amp to power the sub and bridge the other 4 channels to power the soundbar. The recommended power is 150 w per channel and the bridged amp is 200 w per channel. Is this too much power?

6. Last but not least, add a 4 channel amp to power the other speakers. I was thinking about 200w per channel at 2 ohms which means that each speaker should get about 100w. The Polks are rated at 60w RMS and 180w maximum. Does this seem like the right power?

7. For the amp I’d like to add, the choices I’m considering are the Polk 4000.4 (200w x 4 @ 2 ohms), the WS Syn dx4 (same power) and the Fusion MS-SG41400 (220w per channel). But the Polk is 1/3 the price of the WS and half the price of the Fusion so I’m leaning it’s way. Should I consider other options or other amp combinations?

Appreciate any advice. Many Thanks.

 

[Dave burke]

 

[jcyamaharider]

You sure got a lot going on there. 9 total speakers being ran off of a 5 channel amp, crazy.

Here is what I would do: I would buy the polk 4000.4 amp and wire up a speaker per channel and see how it sounds. The front cabin, rear cabin, and sub to the 5000.5. Tune the amp to the appropriate wattage. Put the sound bar to the 2 channels of the 4000.4 to 125watts, and put the rear swim deck speakers to 60 watts to which ever speakers you decide. That would be phase one. From there after I have everything powered that way I wanted it I would then make choices if I wanted to upgrade equipment or added speakers. Putting that sound bar on its own channel and having full power makes a HUGE difference. I would at minimum replace the sub with a JL or wetsounds true IB sub.

 

[Dave burke]

Thanks. What would you do with the bow speakers?

 

[jcyamaharider]

With the way that Yamaha has wired 9 speakers into a 5 channel amp I would say that they are wired in series making the amp see 8 ohm and that will drastically reduce what the amp puts out power wise. Once you have each speaker on its own channel supplying the correct RMS wattage, I think you will be surprised a little bit. Before cutting any new holes, wire it up with both amps and then you can start adding additional sound if necessary.

 

[swatski]

Also check out this thread by @Rod5, very clever:
https://jetboaters.net/threads/242x-stereo-how-to-exploit-free-unused-watts.13256/#post-230620

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[geohil]

Also check out this thread by @Rod5, very clever:
https://jetboaters.net/threads/242x-stereo-how-to-exploit-free-unused-watts.13256/#post-230620

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I just did this - and it makes a huge difference. Best $60 mod yet.
I also second what @jcyamaharider is saying. I added a Polk 2000.2 to run my sound bar @125 watts rms per channel (and soon some JL MX650's on the rear platform in parallel 2 ohm 200 watts per channel). This gave the bow and cabin speakers all their own channel. Much more mid-base and clarity now. Really woke up the Polk db651's.

I'm contemplating re-purposing the Polk db521's from the swim deck as helm speakers - but unsure if I would just add them in parallel with the rear cabin speakers (should be 2 ohm then).

 

[Dave burke]

Thx guys. Great suggestions. And yes mine are wired in series.

Geohill (sorry can’t figure out how to do the @ thing), did you end up rewiring all the speakers to put them on their own channel?

And when you say you did what swatski suggested, are you talking about adding a 2nd sub or rewiring in parallel?

Thx again.

 

[geohil]

Thx guys. Great suggestions. And yes mine are wired in series.

Geohill (sorry can’t figure out how to do the @ thing), did you end up rewiring all the speakers to put them on their own channel?

And when you say you did what swatski suggested, are you talking about adding a 2nd sub or rewiring in parallel?

Thx again.

I ended up running mostly new wire - I used as much of existing as a thought possible but the series wiring meant a lot of cutting. Apparently I'll be re-wiring again too as I used copper strand wire...which I guess is prone to corrosion.

I did add a second sub on the port side and just wired it right in in parallel. Works great. Had to adjust the gain a bit but the increase in low bass is incredible.

 

[Dave burke]

Thx. Where did you put the 2nd sub? And what kind did you get?

I’m thinking I should just run new wiring everywhere. Just as easy to pull two wires per speaker as one. Thoughts?

 

[geohil]

Thx. Where did you put the 2nd sub? And what kind did you get?

I’m thinking I should just run new wiring everywhere. Just as easy to pull two wires per speaker as one. Thoughts?

I did the same Polk db1040 in the same location on the port side as the oem one on the starboard.
I’ll be running all new wire soon too.
Here is me installing the grill

 

[Dave burke]

Good stuff. Thx.

What kind of wire are you running? I understand oxygen-free is the way to go? 14 gauge?

 

[geohil]

Good stuff. Thx.

What kind of wire are you running? I understand oxygen-free is the way to go? 14 gauge?

I used some car audio stuff I had sitting around - so I’ll have to re-do it.

 

[Dave burke]

Let me know what wire you decide to use. Sounds like a good winter project for both of us.

 

[geohil]

Let me know what wire you decide to use. Sounds like a good winter project for both of us.

I'm on the fence - I'm leaning towards this: http://a.co/18UJFDm
but I know the wet sounds WW series is better....just really expensive. Fully tinned at least.

 

[geohil]

Hey I'm going to revive this thread for advice on quality and/or mixing brands. I've got the boat out of storage and want to replace the swim deck speakers before it warms up. Plan was going to be JL MX650's, but I'm having second thoughts. With a Wetsound sound bar do I just throw down and go XS or Revo 6.5's? To complicate matters more my kids play football with a Roswell rep who almost has me sold on R1's.
Anyone have any experience with these choices? It will have a dedicated Polk PA-D2000.2, so 250 watts RMS @2 ohms. Durability will need to be high on the list because of traffic, swamping, and ballast bags that frequent the swim deck. Thanks in advance!

 

[Dave burke]

Hey @geohil , what did you end up doing on your swim deck?

 

[geohil]

Hey @geohil , what did you end up doing on your swim deck?

I have done exactly nothing to those speakers - I have a shelf full of stereo and ballast projects to do but just have not had time. I re-wired all the speakers in prep and added a third Polk 2000.2 to run the deck speakers, but I still have wires hanging down in the storage that needs to be taken care of. Plan is Wetsound Revo 6's to match the Wetsound bar. I'll report back soon.

 

[Jameson Clark]

Also check out this thread by @Rod5, very clever:
https://jetboaters.net/threads/242x-stereo-how-to-exploit-free-unused-watts.13256/#post-230620

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I'm really glad I ran across this through links from other posts. This will absolutely get done to mine this fall/winter. Just to make sure I fully understand, buy the same sub we have on the starboard side, install on port side and splice in +/+ and -/- and that's it? Seems almost too good to be true!

 

[geohil]

I'm really glad I ran across this through links from other posts. This will absolutely get done to mine this fall/winter. Just to make sure I fully understand, buy the same sub we have on the starboard side, install on port side and splice in +/+ and -/- and that's it? Seems almost too good to be true!

It is that easy. I will say I had to play around with the gain (mine came from the dealer maxed out) a bit otherwise the amp would shut down for a second or two when turned way up. Once I had it tuned both subs made a big difference.

The other big tip is move the WetSounds bar to a separate amp. That bar is stupid loud when you give it the right amount of power.

Other free power (well you have to buy speaker wire) is running all the other speakers in parallel. They come wired in series so each speaker is only getting like 40 watts.