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Lucky 13 adjustable pump cone

Green Hulk

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Hi guys, I wanted to introduce myself. My name is Jerry Gaddis and I own the PWC Performance Forum GreenHulk.net and the Performance store, GreenHulkStore.com

I am a retailer of the Lucky 13 adjustable pump cone and I wanted to tell you guys a little more about this product. One of the forum members here, Swatski, has done extensive testing on his boat with this cone and has shared lots of valuable information about it here on this thread

These cones work amazingly well on the Yamaha skis and of course the Yamaha Jet Boats. These cones work well to prevent cavitation, especially when at full ballast and pulling skiers. They are also tunable by simply adding or removing spacer washers this way you can fine tune the cone for your boats weight and normal capacity.

Here's a short video I made telling a little about the cone.
<iframe width="560" height="315" src="
" frameborder="0" allow="accelerometer; autoplay; encrypted-media; gyroscope; picture-in-picture" allowfullscreen></iframe>


There is quite a bit of interest on this cone lately so I have agreed to give the Yamaha Jet Boaters members a $40 discount off of each cone. To get the discount, leave a note in the comments box of your order saying "$40 discount per cone, per Jerry" and we will immediately refund you the discounted price once the order comes through.

Those with Naturally aspirated boats will use this cone

Those with Supercharged boats will use this cone


If you guys ever have questions please reach me at sales@pwcperformance.com

Thanks for having me aboard!
Jerry Gaddis
 

S1LV3R4D0

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Dammit!! I just bought one last week and installed it. Day late and a dollar short, lol. Its a great product for dam sure. Every yamaha boat should have these by default!!
 

swatski

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Great mod, especially in single engine boats! Helps twins with ballast for wake surfing.
For regular cruising - pumps just run more efficiently.
Very easy install and good times getting familiarized with your pumps!
I love those L13s.

 

swatski

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I posted two short clips (before and after) in my 190 some time ago. The difference in hole shot improvement (with almost eliminated cavitation) on hard start was unreal. Just listen to the first few seconds of each clip, for the impeller slipping/overrevving sound and the shortened time of impeller “hooking up” with the L13.

IMO there is no need to mess with boring the Venturi or repitching impelller, unless one is really pushing the best performance (I was doing a lot of experimentation).
I would just install it with all three spacers and take the boat out - it does the trick. Highly recommended if using the boat for water sports a lot.

So, I'm in the process of dialing-in the L13. Love this thing, has helped with out-the-hole cavitation a lot, which is particularly bad in single engine boats.

Here are two short clips - the first was shot a couple of month ago, before I started messing with the cone. The second is last night, after I have the cone pretty close to being dialed-in. Of course this is not a perfect comparison.

The important part is just the first few seconds of both clips.

Most notable, the difference in the duration of cavitation during the first 5-7sec of out-the-hole shot, before (first clip) and after (second clip) L13 installation and tuning. In both cases the operation of the throttle was the same - WOT from a complete stop.

The difference is amazing. You will see in the second clip - cavitation is essentially gone! There is like a fraction of a second spike in RPM, but even that is not hitting the limiter.

Here you go, before:

And after:

And here are some more details about the process.

1. As a part of the process, I have opened up the venturi, in stages. Went from 85mm (stock) to 87mm, 88mm, and now 89.5mm, The best was 88mm. I knew I will probably have to go past the point of no return to find out where it was, and I have a new venturi ordered.
Basically, at 88mm and beyond I have essentially no cavitation, but am not gaining more RPM, and loosing a bit of top speed. Obviously, can not go back, hence the need for a new venturi. This is with all spacers in.

View attachment 33263

And yes, I did try different impellers and impeller pitches, tried it to death, explored the whole range from 7200 to 8400RPM max (afforded by the ECU reflash). Settled now on 7700RPM max (with a brand new OEM impeller of all things... but that is a different story).

2. As an interesting aside, I have noticed a subtle but fairly distinct change in sound. It is more "throaty", I kind of like it.
 

Jester429

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Now im wondering if i bought the wrong one. Isnt the svho for the 160mm pump? And doesnt the ar192 have a 155mm pump?
 

swatski

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Now im wondering if i bought the wrong one. Isnt the svho for the 160mm pump? And doesnt the ar192 have a 155mm pump?
Yes and yes. SHO 192 is 155mm, same as 190.

 

Jester429

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Whew... i suppose i could have put it on my waverunner lol
 

swatski

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Been passively looking at these as one of my motors has slight cavitation at 5k RPMS. If I hammer down it doesn't have it, just when I take off slowly it does it.

Even us old boat guys order these?
Lucky 13 Adjustable Pump Cone for Yamaha SHO/HO Skis & Riva Race Pump [L13 YAM] : PWC Performance Parts
I have played with the L13 quite a bit, my best results were pairing it with the OEM 1.8 impellers. The MR-1 impellers (and shafts) are different albeit the pump is basically the same. Those impellers are shaped more like Solas Concord, if that makes any sense. I would check with Jerry @Green Hulk, see what's the word on L13 in MR-1 skis. It may not work the same in boats (impeller pitch does not translate well) but it would be a good indication of what you might expect. I do not know if anyone has used the L13 in an MR-1 boat... I'm sure it's been done.

That said, if you have more cavitation while accelerating slowly, it sounds like it could be the case of "missing sealant" - somewhere in the tunnel or between the transom plate and the transom. It really does not take any large gap to start sucking enough air to cause impeller slippage.

--
 

suke

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I have played with the L13 quite a bit, my best results were pairing it with the OEM 1.8 impellers. The MR-1 impellers (and shafts) are different albeit the pump is basically the same. Those impellers are shaped more like Solas Concord, if that makes any sense. I would check with Jerry @Green Hulk, see what's the word on L13 in MR-1 skis. It may not work the same in boats (impeller pitch does not translate well) but it would be a good indication of what you might expect. I do not know if anyone has used the L13 in an MR-1 boat... I'm sure it's been done.

That said, if you have more cavitation while accelerating slowly, it sounds like it could be the case of "missing sealant" - somewhere in the tunnel or between the transom plate and the transom. It really does not take any large gap to start sucking enough air to cause impeller slippage.

--
Ahhhhh! That explains the big tube of clear marine sealant that came with the boat. LOL! I'll take a look under the boat. When I was looking at it before I bought it I didn't notice anything strange there, but once again didn't really know what I was looking at. Came from jet skis and out boards. My first jet boat.
 

swatski

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Ahhhhh! That explains the big tube of clear marine sealant that came with the boat. LOL! I'll take a look under the boat. When I was looking at it before I bought it I didn't notice anything strange there, but once again didn't really know what I was looking at. Came from jet skis and out boards. My first jet boat.
If you want to get really serious about it, some of us use fiber bondo, works really well.
I forgot to update this, sorry!
(if I could quit my day job, please!)

So, I finally got to the pumps and intake over the weekend. I do this every year, used to use 5200 with okay results but it always comes off in big chunks at the end of the season. I can not believe how lousy the factory job is on those pumps - they all suck air from the bilge unless you seal everything.
Last year I tried the Marine Tex and it held up remarkably well. It is however not very easy to apply over larger surfaces or longer gaps, good for small jobs. It is also not the easiest resin to sand - epoxy hard.
Here is an example of a chunk of 5200 I applied last year that I managed to now pull out - so it is not holding very well:
View attachment 91500

Here is a gap left behind that chunk:
View attachment 91501

In other places it held for the most part but starting to come off on the edges:
View attachment 91502
View attachment 91503

Long story short, I removed all old caulking I could get out with various tools.
I went at it full animal.
This is my primary tool, and few other:
View attachment 91504
View attachment 91505

It was a beautiful day and was not rushing, took about half a day to prep/clean up and re-hone everything (next post).

--
 

suke

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If you want to get really serious about it, some of us use fiber bondo, works really well.
WOAH! I'll start with the sealant stuff and see if that does anything. Then maybe in the off season graduate to a much more extreme "fix".
 

Seibert74

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Dammit!! I just bought one last week and installed it. Day late and a dollar short, lol. Its a great product for dam sure. Every yamaha boat should have these by default!!
Me too - just order and installed mine a week and a half ago! It works awesome on my SX192. The difference in performance was almost as pronounced when I switched from a 3 blade prop to a 5 blade prop with my old ski boat. Excellent hole shot and I lose A LOT less power in the turns while pulling a tube.
 

Lake_Spray

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I'm happy to endorse both the L13 and the guys from Green Hulk--I assure you I've got no skin in the game on either count. Been running the L13 on my stock impeller single engine AR190 for a couple seasons (after following @swatski extensive research and directions) and am very happy with that decision. Nearly zero cavitation on hole shot and noticeably less impeller slip on hard turns while pulling toys (yes, I need to adjust and reseal some things, which will also help with the latter). Every one at Green Hulk is super knowledgeable, and if they don't know something they'll tell you outright and find someone who does.
 

swatski

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I'm happy to endorse both the L13 and the guys from Green Hulk--I assure you I've got no skin in the game on either count. Been running the L13 on my stock impeller single engine AR190 for a couple seasons (after following @swatski extensive research and directions) and am very happy with that decision. Nearly zero cavitation on hole shot and noticeably less impeller slip on hard turns while pulling toys (yes, I need to adjust and reseal some things, which will also help with the latter). Every one at Green Hulk is super knowledgeable, and if they don't know something they'll tell you outright and find someone who does.
That has always been my experience with those guys, too. No bull.

 

jcyamaharider

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I have purchased the L13 cones and talked with Jerry personally, full endorsement here as well!!

Thanks again Jerry from the other Jerry...lol
 

LX210

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Hey guys just got the L13 cone for my 2019 AR195 and when I first put it in I thought it should be pitched down or the wider part on the top. After lining up the nozzle the cone looked way low and was not centered. I am begining to think that the thick end of the cone goes towards the bottom so that the tip of the cone is centered in the nozzle. I have not bolted it down yet so any help would be greatly appreciated.
 

Scottie

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The cone should be centered. The "thick" side should be towards the bottom, like you said. There should also be a small "T" engraved on the face of the base, which stands for top. The "T" should be at the top (it will be slightly off center) when installed.
 
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