Manual Says to Power Load?

[Slfmde]

First boat so forgive me if I'm interpreting this wrong. This is from the manual of a 2017 AR240. Is this describing power loading? I thought most people idle onto the bunks then use the winch to crank the last couple feet. The "NOTICE" in bold is what's throwing me off but maybe that just means don't winch it all the way from the water. Actually I'm sure that's what it means now, nothing to see here.

http://imgur.com/a/BDXVd

 

[CraigAR]

First boat so forgive me if I'm interpreting this wrong. This is from the manual of a 2017 AR240. Is this describing power loading? I thought most people idle onto the bunks then use the winch to crank the last couple feet. The "NOTICE" in bold is what's throwing me off but maybe that just means don't winch it all the way from the water. Actually I'm sure that's what it means now, nothing to see here.

http://imgur.com/a/BDXVd

I also have the 17' Ar240. I idle onto the trailer bunks then I bump the throttle until I'm on the bow roller. All set, hook her up.

 

[Betik]

I cracked the gelcoat at the Ubolt by winching.

After I learned how to powerload, I love it.

if you search on the forum you can find a lot of info on the debate about wincihng or powerlaoding

 

[Betik]

just put 'powerload' on the search bar on the top right and enjoy the reading

 

[Bruce]

Being lucky that my wife puts the boat on the trailer I winch while she applies power so that we share the load.

If it is just me I power load all the way. In difficult loading situations I can come onto the trailer with the keel between the bunks then straighten up by using more thrust from one engine.

 

[Tobes]

Powerload. But I primarily boat on a lake with concrete ramps so no sand/mud gets kicked up. People generally dont like to powerload when there is sand/mud/debris that gets kicked up.

Even still, powerload with some sand kick > cracking gel coat/pulling the eye loose.

 

[Seadeals]

I also feel like power loading a jet boat is less disturbing than a prop which is closer to the bottom and a more concentrated thrust disturbance.

 

[jdonalds]

I power load every time. I bring the bow of the boat right into the bow stop. Our local ramps are concrete that extends so far we don't have to worry about digging holes in the dirt. If the boat is off center I just turn the wheel to straighten it out while the boat is up against the stop.

If I'm alone I power load to the bow stop, then reach over the bow to crank the winch perhaps 1/2 a turn until it's tight.

 

[buckbuck]

Here is how we do it.

 

[Ronnie]

So according to the manual (which I've never read) I've been doing it right all these years, nice!

Here is a quick video of how I do it (most of the time) but on those few occasions it doesn't work out walk the boat onto the trailer and winch.

 

[Slfmde]

Thanks everyone the videos are very useful!

 

[jdonalds]

Here is how we do it.

Great video buckbuck. That's pretty much how I do it, but alone.

 

[Matt Phillips]

That is a great video on loading and depending on your ramp, your trailer may need to be deeper. Another thing to watch out for is to make sure that people are distributed side-to-side evenly when coming on the trailer. Once my boat is on the trailer, there's only about 1-1.5 inches of space between the trailer fenders and the hull...Having too much weight on one side can possibly make the boat hit those fenders.

On that same note, also make sure that the trailer is level in the water, lest the boat settle onto the trailer uneven.

As for power loading, that's all I do. I'm of the camp that since our thrust is at the top of the water and not down low like a propeller, the negative effects of power loading on the ramp are minimal

 

[Slfmde]

I ordered the VeVe guides so that should help.

 

[GTBRMC]

TBH - the ramp's design and condition, local rules and laws, weather, wave conditions at the ramp, etc. all factor into what method I used. My priority order:

1) safe
2) legal
3) quick & efficient

For example: Most recently I had to use a ramp that is very long, shallow, and sand-filled from the water line to the steeper, concrete portion of the ramp. Lake Michigan is up many feet since the ramp was last paved, approx 15 years ago. Because of this unusual condition, I had to back my Tahoe in so far I was a bit concerned the carpets would get wet, and the trailer was still about 3 inches shallower than I would prefer. And I was by myself... plus the ramp was deserted. So, in this case, I very slowly drove onto the bunks until I met significant resistance. Then I climbed from the bow onto the trailer tongue, got into the water, and very cautiously winched the boat up to the bowstop roller (knowing these boats/trailers are not necessarily designed for this). Hooked safety cable to the bow eye. Jumped into Tahoe on pre-positioned folded towel protecting the driver's seat. Then pulled her up the ramp.

The reason I went into all the detail above is there is no silver bullet for every ramp and every condition. As you gain experience, you will have more options you are comfortable using and will select the most appropriate option as you see fit.

 

[Beachbummer]

Silicone on the bunks, and making sure they are wet goes a long way to ensure easier winch loading.

I rarely trailer my 230 but I almost always load with ropes when I do. No issues. If the boat doesn't easily slide out, spray some silicone or similar on the bunks right away. Loads easy too.

Ymmv.

 

[McMark]

I only powerload when necessary. I more often than not walk the boat on and winch up. The mrs backs the trailer in deeper while winching if necessary to not stress the bow eye. Easy peasy. Our home ramp is basically silt.