MFI Trailer Surge brake

[mdwarchichoke]

New surge brake shock/damper installed. Hopefully it takes the jolt out every time I take off. I know surge brakes do it a little anyway just as designed, but it was getting to pretty bad. It was stuck all the way end when I took it apart.

 

[Seadeals]

Good deal. Let us know how it performs. Did you just replace the original part with new? If so, share the part number and price. Mine has always felt the same (jolt wise) and I always try to slowly “take out the slack” when starting; but if this thing is supposed to make that minimally noticeable, maybe I could benefit from it too.

 

[mdwarchichoke]

$40 bucks plus shipping. Part #052-009-00 Fits A-60, A-70, and A-75 units. Oil change tomorrow evening and back to storage before the rain hits Friday night/Saturday. I got some more random stuff to do it on Sunday if the rain stops. Let you know how the drive goes Saturday, but surge brakes always have some movement in them. Mine was just way past the point of being able to creep forward to get the slack out.

 

[mdwarchichoke]

@sealdeals So much nicer than before. The original one was totally gone. Still get a little tug if you do not start slow, but no longer the big jolt no matter what how I started off. Also seems much calmer slowing down. Maybe that part is just the placebo effect.

 

[Seadeals]

Awesome, thanks for the feedback. I will probably add this to the list for when I give the trailer some TLC. Like you said, all surge brake trailers surge; but I do feel like mine has little damping and it is 13 years old so might not hurt to break into that area to inspect/refurbish.

 

[suke]

Awesome, thanks for the feedback. I will probably add this to the list for when I give the trailer some TLC. Like you said, all surge brake trailers surge; but I do feel like mine has little damping and it is 13 years old so might not hurt to break into that area to inspect/refurbish.

I completely replaced my whole braking system over the winter(slide, brake lines, calipers/pads, hubs/rotors, bearings, and seals). Wasn't worth trying to replace some parts and then find out other parts needed to be replaced. It was totally worth it. Can't wait to get it out on some longer trips than the 15-30 mins from storage to my house, then to the lake.

 

[mdwarchichoke]

Agreed. When I first bought the bought 3 years back, I did the same thing except for the shock, master cylinder, and hard lines. When I went to change the tires out I broke or stripped 2 to 3 wheel studs on every tire. It was just cheaper to order complete hubs with bearings, seals, studs, calipers, pads than buy parts and mess with it.

 

[Seadeals]

I investigated the inner slide before ordering the new shock. Things still work; but the rust on all the parts led me to decide on replacing the assembly. The weak links are rusted threads at the reverse solenoid. The line must come off to remove the inner slide. Here is the “exploded view”.

 

[jmargo]

Is it possible to replace the shock without completely removing everything and disconnecting the master ?

 

[Seadeals]

If you can get the brake line off the solenoid without any problems, it can be done. I had too much rust on all the components, so it was better to replace/upgrade. I went with their latest and greatest design for grins.

 

[Hike]

@HELP - I can no longer put my '08 MFI galvanized trailer in reverse without the wheels locking up. Plus, I can't get the little key to fit in the lock out slot. Anyone know the part to change the whole surge brake assembly?

 

[Ronnie]

@HELP - I can no longer put my '08 MFI galvanized trailer in reverse without the wheels locking up. Plus, I can't get the little key to fit in the lock out slot. Anyone know the part to change the whole surge brake assembly?

First try pressing the button/tab under the tongue to release the surge break mechanism. Next hook your trailer up to the tow vehicle. Put a chock under / in front of a trailer tire. Put the tow vehicle in forward and pull against the chock, this will pull the tongue of the trailer out of its sleeve / disengage the surge brake and will allow you to put the mechanical brake lock out key, the d key into the slot to keep the surge brake from engaging in reverse. You can tape the d key in place and or replace it with a nickel in a pinch. Don’t forget to remove the d key before trailering to the water.

 

[Hike]

is this the surge brake release tab?

It moves up and down freely. Never knew that was there!
I’ll try the chock idea for the D key. Thanks!

i noticed that the oil is low in the resevoir. Any idea what kind of oil goes in here?

 

[Ronnie]

Yes
You are welcome
dot 3 I believe

I Highly recommend that you have someone inspect your rig (tow vehicle with boat laden trailer attached) before you do any (more) serious/distance towing. the highway patrol or coast guard auxiliary may conduct such inspections for free.