My 2016 SX 240 amp / speaker upgrade

[Chip F.]

I'm in the gathering stage of my amp/ speaker upgrade and have almost everything sourced but I'm having difficulty finding a power/ground distribution block to feed my amp and a 12 volt sub panel . I'd like to find one that has an LED readout. Any suggestions? I'm going to use 4 ga. From the battery to the block then feed the amp with 4 ga and then the 12 volt sub panel with 8 ga.
For a 16' SX 240
Equipment:
1 Wetsounds syn 4 amp 4 channel
6 wetsounds WX -650 speakers - putting the two extras in mid cabin
I'm going to make the speakers RGB LED's myself. Hooked up to a music controller

My preliminary review of install accessories :
25 ft of power wire 4 ga. - if I go around engine compartment - how much would be needed to go over the fuel tank?
25 ft of ground wire 4 ga.
110 ft of 14 ga speaker wire - will that be enough?
18 ga remote wire
2 battery terminals
1 fuse holder with 80 amp or 100 amp fuse
4 channel RCA cable - using two sets of 2 channel - they have the shortest length (2 meter) I can find.
1 power/ ground block looking for one that has LED readout
5 ft of power wire 8 ga.
5 ft of ground wire 8 ga.
1 - 12 volt sub panel
Various connectors
Anything I might have missed?

 

[Nick Hughes]

@Mainah used this one in his upgrade and recommended it me, so i ordered it as well.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00ATZL54Q/ref=ox_sc_act_title_10?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=A14DEN9727HF5C

 

[Chip F.]

@Nick Hughes Thanks - I placed my order yesterday . I ended up getting two separate blocks . Might just put a separate volt meter on it.

 

[Chip F.]

Would anyone happen to know the width of the area in front of the helm where everyone attaches an amp board is? My boat is in storage and I can't get to it right now. We use UHMW for lining fuel chutes and I have access to a scrap piece that might work. Thanks.

 

[swatski]

Would anyone happen to know the width of the area in front of the helm where everyone attaches an amp board is? My boat is in storage and I can't get to it right now. We use UHMW for lining fuel chutes and I have access to a scrap piece that might work. Thanks.

This is NOT my final set up but a testing in progress set up with DIY distrubution block, but just to give you a general idea - that white board in the picture is 26" long and the bolts holding it to the helm frame are 24.5" apart.


--

 

[Chip F.]

Thanks that will work!

 

[Chip F.]

I'm trying to figure out the new wire runs for my upgrade. What are best routes to follow to fish wire the to the speakers for the bow,rear cabin, and adding new ones mid cabin above the cup holders. Thanks in advance for any help.

 

[Nick Hughes]

I'm trying to figure out the new wire runs for my upgrade. What are best routes to follow to fish wire the to the speakers for the bow,rear cabin, and adding new ones mid cabin above the cup holders. Thanks in advance for any help.

Im in the middle of mine.

Swims - There is a conduit really high between the swim and under the cabin seats. Feed into there to begin. Theres 1 on both sides
From the port side for all the non-bow speakers, you need to get in to the battery compartment and then follow the lines to the engine and then to the gas tank area.
From gas tank, follow the throttle lines to the helm area.
For the port bow, i went around the anchor box using a fish tap from the starboard speaker opening. This was the most troublesome, but not too bad, keep the tape as high as you can, it wedges low.
Under port cupholders, get it back to battery again and go from above.

 

[swatski]

Im in the middle of mine.

Swims - There is a conduit really high between the swim and under the cabin seats. Feed into there to begin. Theres 1 on both sides
From the port side for all the non-bow speakers, you need to get in to the battery compartment and then follow the lines to the engine and then to the gas tank area.
From gas tank, follow the throttle lines to the helm area.
For the port bow, i went around the anchor box using a fish tap from the starboard speaker opening. This was the most troublesome, but not too bad, keep the tape as high as you can, it wedges low.
Under port cupholders, get it back to battery again and go from above.

What @Nick Hughes said.
If you feel a little masochistic, there is another possibility - there is a"channel" right at the bottom/aft of the head compartment, going under the floor across to the the ski locker, and then you can rout it under the lip and into the helm. Hard though.

One think about swim platform, if you cut new the holes - the port side has a cable running to the remote below - it is somewhere there, so be careful, I almost cut through mine, was very close...

 

[swatski]

As far as the fuel tank compartment, here is what the run parallel to steering/throttle cables looks like - note the black and red power wires going across (don't have the pics but I have those completely covered/protected inside a loom, and use a pool noodle to prevent any white noise - I will post over the weekend):

 

[Chip F.]

Took some time tonight to start the amp board.
A couple things I ran across:
Take the cover off and flip it if it's not where you want it. The Wetsounds logo was upside down for the way I wanted it.
I did not want the amp to be flat because of the offset from the opening so I made some wedges to raise it so it would be easier to read and adjust.

 

[Chip F.]

Made some more progress today. Ran the power and ground wire to the helm and also ran 5 of the 6 speaker runs as well. Took some photos of the quality work from when the factory speakers were installed - looks like if you get three of the four screws in for mounting the speakers it passes QC. I took a couple photos


Here is a look at the starboard side of the helm where I fished the wires into - the green line

 

[Drift Away]

I got tired of being out done by the wakeboard towee guys but i think i came up with an ideal. I ordered a pair of JL 7.7 tower pods with the flush/deck mount adapters. The 7.7 i had cut into the swim deck was not eoungh. My boat is loud. Like really loud. I can grab a hand full of volume and almost run with anyone. But like my dad always said "anything worth doing is worth over doing". So the grand total will be 6 JL Audio 6.5, to JL Audio 10 inch subwoofers 2 JL Audio 7.7 and not rhe 7.7 pods firing backwards.

 

[Chip F.]

I got tired of being out done by the wakeboard towee guys but i think i came up with an ideal. I ordered a pair of JL 7.7 tower pods with the flush/deck mount adapters. The 7.7 i had cut into the swim deck was not eoungh. My boat is loud. Like really loud. I can grab a hand full of volume and almost run with anyone. But like my dad always said "anything worth doing is worth over doing". So the grand total will be 6 JL Audio 6.5, to JL Audio 10 inch subwoofers 2 JL Audio 7.7 and not rhe 7.7 pods firing backwards. View attachment 54268

Now you just need to figure out how to have flames shoot out of them !

 

[Drift Away]

Now you just need to figure out how to have flames shoot out of them !

Lol i told my wife ill get the ones with the red LEDS...she gave the "oh hell no look"

 

[Chip F.]

What is the best method to tie into the remote amp trigger ( blue wire) from the head unit for the new amp?

 

[Chip F.]

Installed the mid cabin speakers today.

 

[Nick Hughes]

Braver than me. I installed mine yesterday, in the typical pussy spots. Still sounds awesome.

 

[Julian]

Installed the mid cabin speakers today.

I'm surprised that speaker would fit with the cleat backing behind it....my JL 6.5's wouldn't fit where the cleat backing is, so I had to go a little further back with mine. Did you add a spacer?

 

[Chip F.]

It was tight and I kept adjusting it back until I made sure the rubber seal was flat and the overhang did not interfere with the grill. No spacer . The cleat is just forward of the hole.