My Lectrotab Install (full guide included)

[Markwest]

Alot of people have been asking for installation guides or videos on this modification. I started one within the google sheet below. I have not completed the wire routing or control install at this point (work in progress) but thought I would share for those thinking about it or starting soon. I am sure there are issues in my approach or better ways to do it, but you gotta start somewhere .

I did have to move a chartplotter sensor and also wanted it to work with wakewedge so I included that detail.

Lectrotab Install - 2019 242SE

Additionally I figured I could get your ideas on the next phase best wiring paths, etc.

 

[swatski]

Great post/install manual!
Glad you incorporated the wake wedge in the install, it really comes pretty close, assuming you went with the typical dimensions we figured for the 240s.

Awesome job!

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[zipper]

Very nice write up. It is too bad that 3m does not make a 5200 Fast Cure in black. We would not have to wait for a week of 70° to cure. We don't get that kind of consistancy until July, here in Vermont.

 

[swatski]

Very nice write up. It is too bad that 3m does not make a 5200 Fast Cure in black. We would not have to wait for a week of 70° to cure. We don't get that kind of consistancy until July, here in Vermont.

I did not realize that. Personally, I wouldn't really care what color goes on in this application, would prefer 5200 all other things being equal for this permanent install. Regular 5200 also cures faster wet, I think, and it's not so bad if used fresh. Either way, this install is great!

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[rad1026]

I'm very interested in your transom drilling. Is there wood in the transom area or is the transom constructed with some other material? What did you find when you drilled your mounting holes?

 

[Markwest]

I'm very interested in your transom drilling. Is there wood in the transom area or is the transom constructed with some other material? What did you find when you drilled your mounting holes?

I added the following detail to the install manual,
"During drilling of the transom area I did not encounter any wood. The drill bit entered easy with no obstruction after ½” or so."

The only area I encountered wood was in the swim deck area for the actuator mount.

 

[rad1026]

So the transom construction is not like an outdrive boat where the transom is supporting the weight of the outdrive and made with wood sandwiched between layers of fiberglass. I would not think the transom of the jet boat would need the kind of construction that an outdrive requires.

 

[swatski]

So the transom construction is not like an outdrive boat where the transom is supporting the weight of the outdrive and made with wood sandwiched between layers of fiberglass. I would not think the transom of the jet boat would need the kind of construction that an outdrive requires.

Definitely not like an outboard transom. These hulls have no core, thin and strong FRP shell, I did not think the new hulls have any wood, but guess I stand corrected by @Markwest, I'm guessing those are the glassed in enforcements for U-bolt tie downs, not a core-sandwich.

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[zipper]

I added the following detail to the install manual,
"During drilling of the transom area I did not encounter any wood. The drill bit entered easy with no obstruction after ½” or so."

The only area I encountered wood was in the swim deck area for the actuator mount.

Definitely not like an outboard transom. These hulls have no core, thin and strong FRP shell, I did not think the new hulls have any wood, but guess I stand corrected by @Markwest, I'm guessing those are the glassed in enforcements for U-bolt tie downs, not a core-sandwich.

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It is basically the same construction that they used when laying up my 07 hull. Other than the hatches having a core of end grain balsa, I too found a plywood backing plate at the tiedowns when I drilled mine for install. Glad you found the plywood backing plate to mount the actuator to. One of my screws missed the plywood but was imbedded in a thick FRP buildup around the backing plate.

Glad I did not need to reach over there to tighten up the tie down nuts. There are some nasty pieces of raw frp that will draw blood down there.

 

[PeterB]

Nice write up!
Just to clarify - 5200 can cure below 70F - lowest temp is 40F, but it will be slower.
The 50% humidity and 70F temp is for reference on cure time and open working time

 

[Markwest]

I was able to route my lectrotab cables pretty easly along the right side of the boat using the rear radio access. Electrical install next weekend hopefully. Have the material on order.
Ordered:
Knukonceptz 0 gauge wire 20ft.
Knukonceptz 0 gauge inline 100A fuse (max for fuse block).
Blue Sea ST Blade Fuse Block w/ Negative Bus - 6 Circuit fuse block for helm.

@swatski I noticed you routed your power under the fuel hatch going diagonal to the helm. I tried to remove the 4 x 6mm hex bolts but they were not budging - any hints on how to get this hatch off without first breaking each of the bolts/drilling them out and replacing them? Perhaps I take the long way and run it thru the engine bay?

 

[swatski]

I was able to route my lectrotab cables pretty easly along the right side of the boat using the rear radio access. Electrical install next weekend hopefully. Have the material on order.
Ordered:
Knukonceptz 0 gauge wire 20ft.
Knukonceptz 0 gauge inline 100A fuse (max for fuse block).
Blue Sea ST Blade Fuse Block w/ Negative Bus - 6 Circuit fuse block for helm.

@swatski I noticed you routed your power under the fuel hatch going diagonal to the helm. I tried to remove the 4 x 6mm hex bolts but they were not budging - any hints on how to get this hatch off without first breaking each of the bolts/drilling them out and replacing them? Perhaps I take the long way and run it thru the engine bay?

My main power cables indeed run strait from the battery compartment under the deck hatch (over the gas tank) inside conduits and protected by foam liners (pool noodles), and then into the helm pass-through along the steering linkages. That works really well with big, long cables.

My thinking would be to use PB blaster on those Allen bolts (?), give it some time, it should work with good quality Allen wrenches. Believe it or not those new Allen bolts are so much easier to work with than those flat-heads in older boats' deck hatches...

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[Jgonzalez114]

Has anyone installed the 210 kit in a 2006-2009 model? I ordered the 210 kit with the 10x14 tabs and the short actuator but it’s a very tight kit and the angles don’t allow the actuator to sit flush. Any suggestions?

 

[Quad]

I'm about to pull the trigger on a tabs order and have been trying to work out my best option for powering these things. This will be the first mod to our boat (2020 242SE), so I don't have any extra electrical infrastructure in place.

From what I've gathered, many of you are applying power to the controller from 1) an existing circuit or 2) a fuse box placed at the helm. I would be fine with either, thought Option 2 seems wise when considering future projects (stereo upgrades, VHF radio, chart plotter, fish finder, whatever).

I'm quite handy and have an electrical engineering background but have not had the time to plot out what goes where and what power capacities existing wiring provides.

Beyond that, my other primary question is how to detect engine ignition status with my push-button start system.

I'll have the boat pulled from storage and in my driveway by May 1 and hope to have a plan prior to that so I can spend that weekend installing

Thanks!

 

[Markwest]

That is the portion I plan to tackle tomorrow. I will update the install guide later this weekend, depending on how everything comes together. My hope is a test drive the system sunday.

Currently I have ordered cable from and 100A fuse from www.knukonceptz. They were highly recommended in threads on this forum. I also purchased a distribution fuse block from Blue Sea systems.

 

[Quad]

That is the portion I plan to tackle tomorrow. I will update the install guide later this weekend, depending on how everything comes together. My hope is a test drive the system sunday.

Currently I have ordered cable from and 100A fuse from www.knukonceptz. They were highly recommended in threads on this forum. I also purchased a distribution fuse block from Blue Sea systems.

Awesome.

Are you running a fuse box to behind the helm? How much cable did you measure out? What path are you taking?

 

[Jgonzalez114]

Awesome.

Are you running a fuse box to behind the helm? How much cable did you measure out? What path are you taking?

I ran the blue sea fuse box under the helm and ran I think it was 10 wire down the starboard side and engine compartment to my batteries under the rear port bench. This is in a 2008 AR210. With a 25amp fuse at the battery. Nothing I’m running there requires a lot of amps.

 

[Jgonzalez114]

Has anyone installed the 210 kit in a 2006-2009 model? I ordered the 210 kit with the 10x14 tabs and the short actuator but it’s a very tight kit and the angles don’t allow the actuator to sit flush. Any suggestions?

If anyone is doing this install on a 210. I talked to Russ at Lectrotab earlier today. He recommended I apply 12v to the actuator and rotate it instead of installing it with the sticker to the inside. He also mentioned using a shin between the actuator top bracket and the swim platform so that the bracket sits flush. I may need some longer screws maybe 2” for those top brackets.

 

[TimW451]

@Quad - I am watching what @Markwest and @Neutron do. Past postings by @swatski too.

I started diagraming out the electrical. Below is as far as I got. I hope to do more in the next week. I won't be able to start until after Easter.

 

[Markwest]

I completed the install. Still have some work cleaning it up (adding cable protection and more tie downs). But went out and tested it. Thoroughly enjoyed the experience. Not mind blowing but in the past I have had to counter the current and wind with pretty hard input with the steering wheel. This system allows you to counter with the trim tabs to get back to the nice slack steering in the middle while tracking straight.

I equate this to trim tabs in an aircraft where your aircraft yaws due to wind and you can use trim to stop fighting the aircraft. So its sweet!

There was not very much chop but I was able to adjust the nose down and notice by the spray that the boat was in a heavy forward lean. Went for about a two hour cruise, monitored the bilge - no issues. Went out the inlet into the ocean to get some bigger wave action, got slammed a bit - No issues.

Inspection after no cracks, no leaks, looks good!

I updated the install manual to include the electrical wiring aspect but have decided to create a second install specifically for routing the power to the helm distribution block. I did not have time to finish that tonight.

Enjoy everyone!