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New Stereo Question

DaveShip55

Jet Boat Addict
Messages
89
Reaction score
59
Points
87
Boat Make
Yamaha
Year
2005
Boat Model
AR
Boat Length
23
I have a 2022 255XD, and I’m finally looking into upgrading the stereo. My question is, I’ve seen the few aftermarket adaptors that I can plug into the Connext system, using the 4 zones, and being able to utilize the RCA’s as normal, and go that route, upgrading to multiple amps and upgrading the speakers and such.
Or, I was thinking of building a total ‘separate’ system all together and just getting a new JL ‘Head Unit’ and going that route, just disconnecting the Stock plug to the Wetsounds amp I have now. Also wondering if doing that, would that throw some sort of Error Code, which could be a nightmare?
Just wondering if there’s any benefit to going the separate system using the JL head unit? I’m guessing I’d have much better settings and adjustments, compared to the simple 4 zones using the Connext system?
 
Personally, I installed a fusion head unit & jl amp/speakers, ran new wiring for all of it and kept the old system plugged in but hid it to avoid connext errors. This worked well for me, but it really is preference if you’d want to control audio with the existing screen or bypass altogether.
 
Personally, I installed a fusion head unit & jl amp/speakers, ran new wiring for all of it and kept the old system plugged in but hid it to avoid connext errors. This worked well for me, but it really is preference if you’d want to control audio with the existing screen or bypass altogether.
Nice, that’s exactly what I was thinking about doing. Quick question, did you actually leave the Wetsounds Amp(s) as well (can’t even remember if I have two or one, LMAO!), then just disconnect the speakers?
I just think it would be easier to totally rebuild a new system separate from the Connext. It sure was a lot easier on my old 2005 Yamaha. LOL! Had and ‘old school’ Alpine head unit, 5 PPI amps, 3 sets of Polk Audio 6.5” separates in the cabin, two Polk Audio 6x9’s in custom built enclosure on the tower, along with 2 more sets of Polk Audio 6.5’s in cans on the tower, then two 12” Alpine subs (in sealed boxes) behind the drivers and passenger seats. Dang I miss that system!.
 
Nice, that’s exactly what I was thinking about doing. Quick question, did you actually leave the Wetsounds Amp(s) as well (can’t even remember if I have two or one, LMAO!), then just disconnect the speakers?
I just think it would be easier to totally rebuild a new system separate from the Connext. It sure was a lot easier on my old 2005 Yamaha. LOL! Had and ‘old school’ Alpine head unit, 5 PPI amps, 3 sets of Polk Audio 6.5” separates in the cabin, two Polk Audio 6x9’s in custom built enclosure on the tower, along with 2 more sets of Polk Audio 6.5’s in cans on the tower, then two 12” Alpine subs (in sealed boxes) behind the drivers and passenger seats. Dang I miss that system!.
I have an AR250 and the speakers were awful and amp was some no name unbranded silver box. I left it plugged in and left the factory wire runs in place because they were zip tied up in the hull and hard to remove. The factory wiring had 4 of the 6 speakers wired in series, which is why I needed to run new wires anyway. I prefer having the system independent of connext
 
Link to aftermarket adapters to use different amps?
 
We also now offer OEM quality harnesses.

 
We also now offer OEM quality harnesses.

Does this integrate with boats that have the Hertz HMR series radios?
 
So, the benefit to keeping the system integrated is that all of your factory controls (from screen and potential transom remote) will be retained, and you will not need to drill any holes or make any modifications for the aftermarket headunit. Plus you also eliminate the possibility of throwing any codes, which I’ve seen some boats to do when factory system is disconnected/unused.

My take would be to take that extra $500 or so you would have spent on an aftermarket headunit and spend it on a dsp, (hertz s8 is $400). This DSP will not only give you the ability to clean up and boost the preamp signal, but it also will give you full flexibility and ability to tune the system, from delays, to EQ, etc.

In addition, as for harnesses, I have pioneered, designed, and manufactured the harnesses for OEM integration into the Yamaha systems. I first began to produce these in 2020, but check out this link to see the latest design we have come out with. New Yamaha OEM Audio Integration Harnesses

In addition, I own an audio shop, so if you have any questions about speccing equipment, feel free to give me a shout, I’m happy to answer any questions or provide examples as to what we have done in Yamahas in the past!!

 
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Does this integrate with boats that have the Hertz HMR series radios?
There should be no need. The Hertz MMR should have RCA outputs and is a great radio already. I have not been a 222FSH Sport E yet - are you able to control the stereo thru the Connext?
 
There should be no need. The Hertz MMR should have RCA outputs and is a great radio already. I have not been a 222FSH Sport E yet - are you able to control the stereo thru the Connext?
Ok, what about the speakers? Just disconnect them from the Hertz and wire directly to the amp? I don't know if this boat has an amp or a sub but at cruising speed it's hard to hear music even at max volume.

No, the radio is completely separate from the Connext screen as far as I can tell.
 
If the boat had an amp, it would be in plain site inside the helm.... more than likely not.

Your assumption is correct. Cut the speaker wires from the Hertz radio about 8" down from the radio and tape off/heatshrink individually. Then extend the boat side wires to your new amp. (9-wire is great for this: https://www.crutchfield.com/S-MofDQ...JR_JR-l-fBxZdxR-JPiswasFoazWKqIBoCf24QAvD_BwE).... you will want to also hook up remote wire in the 9 wire to the remote wire off the HU.

And then connect RCAs from the Hertz to the amp, along with running power and ground.

I would also suggest checking for resistance on the speakers, then using a 9v to "pop" the speakers to identify which one is what, and tag appropriately. It looks like your boat has 6 speakers which probably mean a pair is ran in series at 8 ohms with another pair. You would want to identify that and then run new speaker wire to one pair, this way you can run all at 4 ohms to your new amp. Alternatively you could re-wire to 2 ohms... the only difference is if you want the extra zone/gain control.
 
If the boat had an amp, it would be in plain site inside the helm.... more than likely not.

Your assumption is correct. Cut the speaker wires from the Hertz radio about 8" down from the radio and tape off/heatshrink individually. Then extend the boat side wires to your new amp. (9-wire is great for this: https://www.crutchfield.com/S-MofDQ...JR_JR-l-fBxZdxR-JPiswasFoazWKqIBoCf24QAvD_BwE).... you will want to also hook up remote wire in the 9 wire to the remote wire off the HU.

And then connect RCAs from the Hertz to the amp, along with running power and ground.

I would also suggest checking for resistance on the speakers, then using a 9v to "pop" the speakers to identify which one is what, and tag appropriately. It looks like your boat has 6 speakers which probably mean a pair is ran in series at 8 ohms with another pair. You would want to identify that and then run new speaker wire to one pair, this way you can run all at 4 ohms to your new amp. Alternatively you could re-wire to 2 ohms... the only difference is if you want the extra zone/gain control.
Thank you. I have installed a few aftermarket systems in vehicles so should carry over quite a bit. That 9 wire is pretty slick. I have some multi-conductor cable for rear speakers but it's just 4 wires and a string to pull with inside the outer jacket.

You are probably right about 2 sets of speakers being run off the same output as the head unit only has 4 speaker capability. 6 total, yes.

Radio_Wiring.jpg
 
Thank you. I have installed a few aftermarket systems in vehicles so should carry over quite a bit. That 9 wire is pretty slick. I have some multi-conductor cable for rear speakers but it's just 4 wires and a string to pull with inside the outer jacket.

You are probably right about 2 sets of speakers being run off the same output as the head unit only has 4 speaker capability. 6 total, yes.

View attachment 242491

I would not advise using 18ga 9 wire for amplified speakers in a boat. That 9 wire is made for car applications, lower power drivers and much shorter runs than a boat. I would advise 16ga tinned ofc copper wire.

With your case, the best bet would be to land new home runs for each speaker, or atleast the pair that is wired in series (and depin the others from the harness). If you know you’re going to have certain speakers in parallel pairs you could configure the wiring as such from the getgo, but if you’re already going to be running wire, home runs per speaker is usually best and most serviceable. If you’re into it, land rgb/speaker wire combo so you can run speakers with rgb in them!
 
I would not advise using 18ga 9 wire for amplified speakers in a boat. That 9 wire is made for car applications, lower power drivers and much shorter runs than a boat. I would advise 16ga tinned ofc copper wire.

With your case, the best bet would be to land new home runs for each speaker, or atleast the pair that is wired in series (and depin the others from the harness). If you know you’re going to have certain speakers in parallel pairs you could configure the wiring as such from the getgo, but if you’re already going to be running wire, home runs per speaker is usually best and most serviceable. If you’re into it, land rgb/speaker wire combo so you can run speakers with rgb in them!
Thanks for the input. The marine amps are not cheap. May keep it stock for now. Don't let my kids see the RGB speakers or I will have to swap them all out to stop the nagging, hah.
 
Thanks for the input. The marine amps are not cheap. May keep it stock for now. Don't let my kids see the RGB speakers or I will have to swap them all out to stop the nagging, hah.

HAHA, great point. I will say, most marine rated amplifiers are pretty pricy. A nicely priced amplifier that is marine rated would be the Audio Dynamic SD series amplifiers. Also great footprint too!
 
HAHA, great point. I will say, most marine rated amplifiers are pretty pricy. A nicely priced amplifier that is marine rated would be the Audio Dynamic SD series amplifiers. Also great footprint too!

Most of the marine rated amps have the board conformal coated. We do that at work for Aerospace circuitry. Some sort of polymer coating to prevent corrosion. I am not sure if those SD series are coated.
 
Most of the marine rated amps have the board conformal coated. We do that at work for Aerospace circuitry. Some sort of polymer coating to prevent corrosion. I am not sure if those SD series are coated.

Yes, the boards are confirmally coated!
 
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