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No power when turning ignition keys on

scopeusa

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I have been off the grid due to medical issues but now thankfully they seem to be fixed.

A friend has a 230 AR which is left sitting for months on end, out in the Caribbean environment. Needless to say with no maintenance and not being run up he has problems. This time he returns and hooks up the battery and when he switches either key nothing, completely dead. The blower motors and lights work OK. This must mean that the main fuse is good. I looked up the wiring diagram on a 2004 factory manual and could not see any secondary breaker after the main fuse. My SX230HO provides power to the depth gauge when any of the three kill circuits are open, lanyard, jet port hatch or throttle. Has anyone had an ignition switch go bad. The battery is fine and stays fine with a 75 amp load applied. I am wondering if he reversed the battery polarity by mistake. Does anyone have any knowledge as to whether battery polarity reversal damages anything I would assume that Yamaha would provide diode protection? If there is no power to the hot side of the ignition switches any ideas? I thought that each system was completely independent.
 

Scottintexas

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I haven't looked through the FAQ but I believe we have a trouble shooting no start thread,

my first thought is that he doesn't have all the positive wires hooked up to the battery, we've seen that countless times with the stock set up containing 3 positive wires and one or tow fall behind the battery

there is a stock fuse on the battery compartment wall but that is for the accsy.
there are fuses in the ECU box also that you could check,

once you look at those you I think you'll just have to get the multi meter out,
 

scopeusa

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Thanks, very good point I did not install the battery I just metered it and put a battery load tester on it. It would be easy to miss an extra connection with the black carpet. Sometimes you find yourself looking for the complicated answer because you know it cannot be that simple! Dumb but true! I will let you know what I find after I delve!
 

scopeusa

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Well it was a nice idea but....I went and had a proper look. The boat had a battery switch installed for two batteries. and there is only one positive connection. I tested all three positions, 1, 2, and All. Blower and lights work on 2 and All, there is nothing connected to 1. I did not have any tools but presumably any split in power may happen after the switch this is a 2005 boat. All I saw was a red/black stripe wire say 10g wire coming out of the side of the battery switch and disappearing behind the panel in the engine bay it had an inline 20 amp fuse which I took to be the main fuse. From there on it looks as if it heads on up to the back of the dash, difficult to tell in the dark. I guess the next thing is to find whether that wire is hot. If so I reckon pull the dash and start snipping zip ties to trace some of that rats nest installed behind it starting with the ignition switches. The ignition switches would be odd because why would both fail at the same time? Unlikely but possible.
 

Scottintexas

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both engines have their own large gauge wire connector and then you have a single smaller gauge for the accessories,

Did you see the large gauge wires connected ?
 

scopeusa

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No the curiosity got the better of me with the possible missing extra + wire. It was dark so no go until tomorrow. Cheers
 

Scottintexas

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scopeusa

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He needs to pull the dash, to easily access the harness. The access doors on pre-2006 boats is tiny! Results as below in italics and underline
  • A) Engine wont turn over at all
    1. Shift Lever not in Neutral
      • Move throttle to Neutral
      • Wiggle throttle to make sure contact is clean
      • No power to the depth finder when starboard ignition switch is turned on. On my boat this is not affected by any of the three kill switches, Jet port hatch, lanyard or throttles. So it would suggest no power after or before the ignition switches, unless the depth sounder is dead.
    2. Cleanout Hatch switches or wiring loose (swap switches/connectors if just one engine)
      • Have someone stand on hatch and retry
      • Have someone open hatch and manually depress buttons
      • Tape a dime or nickel to hatch where button hits to temp try
      • Adjust button height
      • As above
    3. Blown Fuse
      • Replace fuse under cap on ECU on back wall of engine compartment (should be a spare in there--replace spare!)
      • Check fuse inside small black box near batteries, usually screwed to the divider wall. (Follow main +Positive cable from battery to find fuse)
      • Fuse fine connector clean no corrosion.
    4. Corrosion on Negative terminals or loose terminals at the battery
      • Tighten well
      • Clean and apply dielectric grease
      • Battery terminals as new no corrosion, tight
    5. Starter Component failure
      • Check wire connections at starter
      • No ignition so the started will not energize
    6. Battery not fully charged (with a partial charge blower/radio may work, but there may not be enough power to turn the starter).
Tested with a battery load tester showing no degradation. Terminals as new and tight

  • B) Engine turns over but won't start
    1. Kill Switch at helm not seated properly
      • Pull lanyard on and off a few times/wiggle it ect
      • Swap connectors on back of switch if just one engine)
      • Kill switch has no effect on the ignition power just the engine kill
    2. Cleanout Hatch switches or wiring loose-a bad connection might cause the starter to stutter. A bad switch or mis-aligned connection will result in no cranking or sporadic cranking.
      • Swap switches/connectors if just one engine
      • As above
    3. Fuel tank empty
    4. Fuel Tank-water or contaminents in fuel or pressure is low
    5. Spark Plugs fouled or caps not tight
    6. Crank case filled with water and/or fuel
Cannot get that far

  • Engine Codes and Code Symptom
No software to test

  • Voltage State of Battery Charge

  • 12.6+ 100% Good
 

ZippyBoater

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He needs to pull the dash, to easily access the harness. The access doors on pre-2006 boats is tiny! Results as below in italics and underline
  • A) Engine wont turn over at all
    1. Shift Lever not in Neutral
      • Move throttle to Neutral
      • Wiggle throttle to make sure contact is clean
      • No power to the depth finder when starboard ignition switch is turned on. On my boat this is not affected by any of the three kill switches, Jet port hatch, lanyard or throttles. So it would suggest no power after or before the ignition switches, unless the depth sounder is dead.

    2. Cleanout Hatch switches or wiring loose (swap switches/connectors if just one engine)
      • Have someone stand on hatch and retry
      • Have someone open hatch and manually depress buttons
      • Tape a dime or nickel to hatch where button hits to temp try
      • Adjust button height
      • As above

    3. Blown Fuse
      • Replace fuse under cap on ECU on back wall of engine compartment (should be a spare in there--replace spare!)
      • Check fuse inside small black box near batteries, usually screwed to the divider wall. (Follow main +Positive cable from battery to find fuse)
      • Fuse fine connector clean no corrosion.

    4. Corrosion on Negative terminals or loose terminals at the battery
      • Tighten well
      • Clean and apply dielectric grease
      • Battery terminals as new no corrosion, tight

    5. Starter Component failure
      • Check wire connections at starter
      • No ignition so the started will not energize

    6. Battery not fully charged (with a partial charge blower/radio may work, but there may not be enough power to turn the starter).
Tested with a battery load tester showing no degradation. Terminals as new and tight

  • B) Engine turns over but won't start
    1. Kill Switch at helm not seated properly
      • Pull lanyard on and off a few times/wiggle it ect
      • Swap connectors on back of switch if just one engine)
      • Kill switch has no effect on the ignition power just the engine kill

    2. Cleanout Hatch switches or wiring loose-a bad connection might cause the starter to stutter. A bad switch or mis-aligned connection will result in no cranking or sporadic cranking.
      • Swap switches/connectors if just one engine
      • As above

    3. Fuel tank empty
    4. Fuel Tank-water or contaminents in fuel or pressure is low
    5. Spark Plugs fouled or caps not tight
    6. Crank case filled with water and/or fuel
Cannot get that far

  • Engine Codes and Code Symptom
No software to test

  • Voltage State of Battery Charge

  • 12.6+ 100% Good

That is an extensive checklist. Thanks for posting!
 

scopeusa

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I cannot take the credit for it Scoot sent it to me..............
 

scopeusa

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Whoops. Scott sent it to me
 

scopeusa

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It turns out there are two fuses in line with the power to the ECU electrical box, which I cannot find anywhere on the wiring diagram that I have for a 2004, but I doubt that is any different to the 2005. Scott pointed me in the right direction, but it was not until I had time to view the boat in daylight that they were located. Both were blown, which rather suggests the owner inadvertently switched the polarity. Fortunately no damage to the ECU's etc. The boat is fired up and running. Thanks. PS if any one knows where those two fuses appear on the factory wiring diagrams please let me know, I might have been having a senior moment!
 
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