Pulling Sportjet 175

[drs1250]

I am planning on pulling my 175 Sportjet this weekend any tips would be appreciated.

 

[Stomp10]

@drs1250 Are you pulling the engine, pump or both?
Apologies, I'm not familiar with your boat. Googling for it now....

 

[drs1250]

Just the motor

 

[Stomp10]

Having two points on the engine to lift from will make things a lot easier on you.
The only one I could find other than the flywheel was the water hose fitting waaay down at the bottom rear of the exhaust manifold cover. You may figure out something else for that. Ultimately you dont want to damage anything in the process. Tie a rope securely to either another winch or lift by hand and tie it off each time as you go back and forth, lifting between the 2 points. A little bit at a time gets it done. No fighting with it.

Once you're off the splines you should be good to go. Also be careful not to damage seals until the shaft is clear.
Make sense?

 

[Stomp10]

The nuts holding the adapter plate to the pump are metric.
Everything to do with the engine itself is SAE

 

[drs1250]

what about using the top head bolts or exhaust manifold bolts, or the t-stat bolts as a second lifting point?

 

[Stomp10]

The T stat bolts may work fine. You will never get the EM bolts out while inside the engine compartment as they are about 5" long except the two waaay at the bottom.

 

[Stomp10]

@drs1250 Head bolts are a possibility too but there is the possibility the head gasket will fail afterwards. I'd pass on that unless you're replacing head gaskets.
Although it may be a good idea to replace the gaskets anyway.

 

[drs1250]

Still no luck I am pulling from the center and the top inner head bolts, cannot get the engine to separate from the pump, been using wood with a 3lb hammer to "tap" along the top of the pump housing with some tension from the hoist. Tried heating the studs and adding PB blaster but cannot get to all mounting studs in the back.

Day 3 - getting frustrated....

 

[Stomp10]

@drs1250 - 8 nuts and odd thing here for me was, I pulled my engine again at end of season. This time I wound up taking off 9 nuts before it would separate.
Its easy to mix up the hold down nuts.
Seems my issue was under that water bypass hose at the base of the adapter plate. the one that wraps around the left rear corner of the engine. Way down at the bottom. Real tough to get a good line of sight.
It'll come off easy peasy once they're all out.
Bet you figured it out by now.....

 

[drs1250]

I have all 8 of the correct nuts removed, My bypass hose is on the right when looking at the engine front the carbs, I had to disconnect that hose to get that one , going to get acy/ox torch to carefully heat up around the studs.

Engine probably has not ever been removed since 1998

 

[drs1250]

A little progress today, was able to get the front lifted about 1/8 inch around 4 mounting tabs by hitting around the base with a 2x4 and 3lb hammer, Just need to free up the rear.

 

[Stomp10]

something is wrong. it shouldn't be that hard.
be sure you got the right nuts.

 

[Stomp10]

Are you lifting from 2 points?
There is only a few thousandths wiggle on the spline connection. If you pull too hard from one point it will lock up tight.
start over with slack hoist connections and lift in little increments between the 2 points.
Also the engine is ass heavy. it doesn't balance on the crank hoist connection.
Only thing I can think would be giving you trouble.

 

[Stomp10]

and put the hammer away

 

[Stomp10]

pull out any shims you installed too then restart the whole lift over.
How much corrosion is evident on your engine?
Sry just thinking it through....

 

[drs1250]

Thanks I will try that. Currently lifting from flywheel and top head bolts . I have a little space all around the engine except for the right rear studs. Will reinstall the front nuts to bring it back down and restart

 

[drs1250]

Anyone have an adapter plate for a 175 sport jet as a last resort I may cut this one

 

[Stomp10]

How about some pictures before you start cutting?

 

[drs1250]