Question about maint

[BoaterGuy]

So, I did some searching and I couldn’t find any definitive answers on what needs to be done when you over grease an intermediate bearing. Some answers are; “if it’s not leaking then you’re fine” and others are related to bearing that already failed for unknown reasons.

For the first time since my 10 hour maint completed by the dealer, I greased them.

 

[Cobra Jet Steering LLC]

https://jetboaters.net/threads/adding-grease-to-bearing-housing.24661/#post-413636 in your case the hose is sitting on a hose barb so you can just pull off the hose to put in the gear lube then return the hose. Hopefully your seals don't start leaking from the outside that is where the water comes in so just leave it and cross your fingers it will probably be ok. Once water gets in the bearing it goes bad fast and the parts separate allowing water in the boat also. It will end up coming apart in pieces as shown in the picture . My last 2 did not separate or allow water in . I realized it was time to change them at 650 hours because as I was adding gear lube one was leaking the gear lube out slowly indicating it was starting to go bad so I changed them. The new ones were packed with grease, and after they were installed I added the gear lube , now they have 100 hours on them with no worries.
Point of interest if you see any grease coming out around the rubber and the outer housing replace them as the rubber is detaching .

 

[haknslash]

I don't know about your grease issue but yea I can see you've had some water in there due to all the black mold, rusted bolts and hose clamps. Definitely get those clamps replaced as those are your cooling feed to your engine. Don't want those breaking and leaving you stranded for a tow. The mold also isn't good for your health and it will spread if you don't start killing it. As for the grease without knowing what your gun pump rate is hard to tell. All guns have their own pump rate that may differ from others. The 100 hour grease amount is very little but it's possible your dealer put more in there than they should have when they did the 10 hour service.

 

[Scottintexas]

I'm so tired of having to fix everything. These boats are just a different kind of pain compared to the IO i had. Thinking about switching back after 6 years of this one.

That is definitely true, it's mechanical and something is going to need fixing, it's just a different type of something

Thinking about sticking a gopro under there and go running and see whats going on. (Inspired from the thrust vector X thread).

definitely a good idea, maybe even run it around with the engine hatch open to see what's going on,
I might suggest just tying it to the dock for an hour with the engine off to see what accumulates (if any)

I have had a water intrusion issue for the longest time (over 2 years now) and have done everything I know of to fix it and it has not really gotten better. Now that I'm finally looking into the bearing issue, it looks like these might be the culprit. Especially because of where the mold and rust is. When I do have water in the boat it is never up on the top where the bearing is.

How much water do you get? it worries me you have enough to say it doesn't get up to the bearing, does your bilge pump run? how often?

or is it just a spray pattern that moistens everything (if so it could be a cooling hose with a pin hole leak)

 

[Scottintexas]

also,
is that mold or is it your black engine hatch insulation flaking away?
my engine compartment is covered with disintegrating insulation flecks


.

 

[haknslash]

also,
is that mold or is it your black engine hatch insulation flaking away?
my engine compartment is covered with disintegrating insulation flecks


.

It’s mold I believe. See the plastic scupper hose. Definitely some water has been back there often due to the rust on the cooling hose metal clips and rusted bolts on the block.

 

[haknslash]

Sorry you had to spend the summer trying to find the issue. I know that can be frustrating but hopefully you can find the source of water intrusion. Keep us posted!

 

[afdouble]

https://jetboaters.net/threads/adding-grease-to-bearing-housing.24661/#post-413636 in your case the hose is sitting on a hose barb so you can just pull off the hose to put in the gear lube then return the hose. Hopefully your seals don't start leaking from the outside that is where the water comes in so just leave it and cross your fingers it will probably be ok. Once water gets in the bearing it goes bad fast and the parts separate allowing water in the boat also. It will end up coming apart in pieces as shown in the picture . My last 2 did not separate or allow water in . I realized it was time to change them at 650 hours because as I was adding gear lube one was leaking the gear lube out slowly indicating it was starting to go bad so I changed them. The new ones were packed with grease, and after they were installed I added the gear lube , now they have 100 hours on them with no worries.
Point of interest if you see any grease coming out around the rubber and the outer housing replace them as the rubber is detaching .

Do you remove the Zerk... then use the syringe? Gear lube with Grease???

 

[Cobra Jet Steering LLC]

Ok if you have the hose barb just use that if not remove the Zerk fitting to add the lube or as I like to do add a hose barb in it's place stick a small hose on it when you are done with the hose doubled over and cable tied at the end so water won't get it.
As for the grease or gear lube I believe the gear lube added to the grease works the best to insure the bearing gets a lot of lube and the seals stay wet also.
I also like the added gear lube because it shows you if there is any area of the rubber that is failing before it gets to the outer section.
When I noticed the gear lube leaking out of one of my bearings and knew it needed replacing instantly.
The entire reason I came up with this is because I knew pumping grease in a non vented enclosed bearing would be bad for the seals and the rubber around it.
Take a look at the wheel bearing buddies on the trailer as an example , when the grease gets full it moves the end to open a vent you know when to stop and you did not harm the seals etc. because it is not pressurized.

 

[afdouble]

Ok if you have the hose barb just use that if not remove the Zerk fitting to add the lube or as I like to do add a hose barb in it's place stick a small hose on it when you are done with the hose doubled over and cable tied at the end so water won't get it.
As for the grease or gear lube I believe the gear lube added to the grease works the best to insure the bearing gets a lot of lube and the seals stay wet also.
I also like the added gear lube because it shows you if there is any area of the rubber that is failing before it gets to the outer section.
When I noticed the gear lube leaking out of one of my bearings and knew it needed replacing instantly.
The entire reason I came up with this is because I knew pumping grease in a non vented enclosed bearing would be bad for the seals and the rubber around it.
Take a look at the wheel bearing buddies on the trailer as an example , when the grease gets full it moves the end to open a vent you know when to stop and you did not harm the seals etc. because it is not pressurized.

Thanks for the information. That makes total sense.

 

[Cobra Jet Steering LLC]

No problem, I also add gear lube to my pumps as I have mentioned several times past 750 hard hours in salt water still running strong, longest lasting pumps I have ever had. So I stick with this plan gear lube and grease.

 

[afdouble]

No problem, I also add gear lube to my pumps as I have mentioned several times past 750 hard hours in salt water still running strong, longest lasting pumps I have ever had. So I stick with this plan gear lube and grease.

Any certain gear lube you recommend? Amsoil? And how much are you putting in, a couple of ounces? half/half?

 

[Cobra Jet Steering LLC]

In the pump if you remove the cone be sure to clean the mating surfaces and use a good silicon sealer when you reinstall it, angle the boat down in the front so the gear lube goes down hill when you inject it I use 2 or 3 syringes full I am guessing the syringe holds 5ml .