Sandbar Rear Anchor

[cozilla]

Looking at some items I can add to the boat this off season to help our time on the lake be more enjoyable. We usually go hang out at a sandbar on the lake that is about 3 to 4 feet where we usually anchor. Currently I am using a auger style dog yard stake for the rear anchor but it is short and have to battle get it screwed in behind the boat because I have to go underwater to screw it in. I am going to get a box anchor for the front but am looking for something with more ease of use for the rear anchor. Below are the 2 options I am looking at currently. Let me know what you guys would use.

Shore Spike
http://slideanchor.com/store/index.php/shore-spike.html

Aughog
http://www.aughog.com/products-page/auganchor-sand-bar-auger-anchor/

 

[Ronnie]

I've never tried the aughog out but have used the dog stake. I bought a shore spike a few years ago and love it. It's solid and easy to use. I had to clean it out once since I've owned it (sand got between the spike and the plunger/handle) but that was no big deal, under 5 mins with a garden hose. I don't think I could bend or break it unless I was trying to with heavy equipment (e.g. running it over with my truck while it is extended an perched on the curb). Bottom line, this is what I recommend (along with a box anchor).

 

[cozilla]

So the shore spike will work ok when trying to get it set in 3 to 4 feet of water?

 

[Ronnie]

Sometimes I use mine as a bow anchor in shallow water and it works fine but go too deep and the entire unit may be submerged so I tie a buoy to it for better visibility. I may buy a smaller one for the shore in these instances where I use the primary on the bow.

 

[Murf'n'surf]

Using the shore spike can be tricky in deep water. I would go with a fluke anchor and 4' chain rode, you can toss and set it while staying dry.

What kind of bottom do you anchor in? Sand/pebble?

 

[cozilla]

Bottom is sandy and hard.

 

[RightStuff]

Just stay away from the rubber coated fluke anchors. I have one that I use as a rear anchor when backed up to shore and it always turns over on it's self and comes loose (sandy bottom). I even have a few ft of chain on it and that sucker just doesn't stick like my other non-rubber coated fluke anchor. So needless to say that rear one is getting tossed before next season.

 

[cozilla]

I have an extra fluke anchor already but like to be able to use something like I mentioned in the OP if possible. Anymore advice on either?

 

[RightStuff]

Sorry, wasn't really answering your original question.

I have seens a few people use the spike style anchors (not sure of the specific brand but looked the same as the auger style one you have above) when anchored up next to us at the lake. Seemed to hold just fine in the same conditions I described earlier, but it required them to get in the water and screw it down, etc.

I personally like the fluke style for this because you can toss it and set it without having to get in the water (in most cases), but that's just my preference and seemed to be my only opinion against the spike style.

 

[cozilla]

No worries @RightStuff thanks for your input!

 

[OrangeTJ]

Why not just use another box anchor off the back? Or is the concern that somebody will step on it?

 

[cozilla]

Usually there are a lot of boats and we hang out behind the boat the whole time. I would rather not have a an anchor line off the back of the boat.

With the dog stake i have a rope from the stake to one of the tie down eyes.

 

[PEARCE]

Go with the shore spike. As long as you don't mind getting in the water to set it. We tie a small bouy to the top ring on ours when it's submerged. No biggie!

 

[Yochichi]

I am cheap I use this. Same thing farmers use to tie up animals. Very sturdy. I have 3 of the 2.5 foot ones in my anchor compartment.

 

[cozilla]

@Yochichi how well does it work?

 

[txav8r]

Go with the shore spike. As long as you don't mind getting in the water to set it. We tie a small bouy to the top ring on ours when it's submerged. No biggie!

X2...this is a no brainer. The shore spike can be set easily underwater as long as you can reach it. It has a hammer slide mechanism that allows you to pound it in, and out, even underwater. It is about 2" angle iron so it holds really well to straight loads, but like any anchor, side loads will weaken the hold. It even comes with the top ring that @PEARCE mentions specifically to set a buoy or fender on, so that you can see where it is and keep anyone from stubbing a foot on it. Get the large, the small is ok, but the large has much better hold power in sand because it will be deeper. I take a large diameter noodle and store the shore spike inside it and lay it in my clean out tray, along with the anchor line for it. It works well with the Danik hook if you so choose, but I just use a stainless carabiner and pull a loop in my anchor line to attach when needed. Most times, I make my adjustments at the boat however. You can set it close, or more distant if it won't hold close. But I have found it holds better without all the "play" and extra length of rope.

One thing I discovered, power coating fails, paint fails, and rust sucks in the boat. Hot dipped galvanized is the minimum solution. The shore spike is hot dipped, but if you want to pay for it, they also offer in in STAINLESS!

 

[redthumper9]

We are on the coast so we deal with tides, currents and wind. I use a 8lb Danforth (fluke style) anchor off the bow and a shore spike of the stern. The shore spike has been fantastic while on the beach, but for us, it does not do well submerged. The current is a large factor.....couple that with moving sand, and it's just not a good combination. I love the shore spike and if you are on a lake, you will have no problems.

 

[Evildwarf]

I use a $5 auger tie down from HD that is designed for a large dog.
It holds just fine as a stern anchor in the clay bottom of Allatoona.
Of course Allatoona is generally very gentle in terms of water movement.
The biggest challenge are the yahoos that steam through making wake where we are hanging out.
My bow anchor is either an 18# river anchor or an ancient fluke style of unknown poundage.

 

[cozilla]

X2...this is a no brainer. The shore spike can be set easily underwater as long as you can reach it. It has a hammer slide mechanism that allows you to pound it in, and out, even underwater. It is about 2" angle iron so it holds really well to straight loads, but like any anchor, side loads will weaken the hold. It even comes with the top ring that @PEARCE mentions specifically to set a buoy or fender on, so that you can see where it is and keep anyone from stubbing a foot on it. Get the large, the small is ok, but the large has much better hold power in sand because it will be deeper. I take a large diameter noodle and store the shore spike inside it and lay it in my clean out tray, along with the anchor line for it. It works well with the Danik hook if you so choose, but I just use a stainless carabiner and pull a loop in my anchor line to attach when needed. Most times, I make my adjustments at the boat however. You can set it close, or more distant if it won't hold close. But I have found it holds better without all the "play" and extra length of rope.

One thing I discovered, power coating fails, paint fails, and rust sucks in the boat. Hot dipped galvanized is the minimum solution. The shore spike is hot dipped, but if you want to pay for it, they also offer in in STAINLESS!

We are on the coast so we deal with tides, currents and wind. I use a 8lb Danforth (fluke style) anchor off the bow and a shore spike of the stern. The shore spike has been fantastic while on the beach, but for us, it does not do well submerged. The current is a large factor.....couple that with moving sand, and it's just not a good combination. I love the shore spike and if you are on a lake, you will have no problems.

Thanks for the input. Just what I was looking for.

 

[Team Bristow]

I make these in my garage in about 10 minutes. I have two on the boat and they are all I use at the sandbar. Our sandbar is packed with boats on the weekend and all of the anchor lines get to be a hassle. You don't even need the augur, you can just cut the end of the pipe on a steep angle and it will drive through the sand with ease.