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Shorlandr trailer brake caliper replacement

Neutron

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As per @swatski request, I took pictures to document my caliper replacement. This is on my 2016 Shorlandr duel axle trailer. It has UFP DB-35 calipers. So if your trailer has the same brakes the procedure should be similar.
This all started because on my last 2 hour haul i lost both my bearing caps and the grease pushed out the center.
The rear hubs were very hot. So after i jacked up the trailer, I found both calipers dragging. I removed the calipers to find both pistons frozen.
This is what they looked like:
20190724_171309.jpg

The rest of the hardware looked great:
20190724_173320.jpg

The factory calipers are zinc coated with a chrome piston.

While this is not ideal, if you pull back the piston boot and massage some waterproof grease it will last a lot longer than 3 years. If i had known this would have happened I would have greased them when i first took the boat home.
I decided to replace the calipers with the upgraded aluminum calipers with the stainless piston.
Now first you have to obviously jack up the rear axle and put on stands to have both tires removed.

To remove the calipers there are 2 7mm allen bolts. A 3/8 ratchet,2 inch extension and a 7mm socket works great one over the leaf and one under the leaf.

Then remove the caliper mounting bracket. Its 2 3/8 allen bolts. A long right angle allen wrench will work ,
Its tight but if you have an allen socket you can't get it in there with a ratchet, even with a swivel extension so try this:
20190724_172407.jpg

If you have a ratchet wrench use it instead:

20190724_172525.jpg


Mount the new bracket.
20190724_174403.jpg

Now before you install the new caliper, i would apply waterproof grease into the piston cavity by carefully peeling back the piston boot and massaging a coating of grease in there:

20190724_174553.jpg

Then form the boot back into its position and clean off the excess grease:

20190724_174721.jpg

Install the pads in the bracket, then the caliper onto the bracket..
I never remove the brake hose off the old caliper until I have the new caliper installed onto the bracket. I just leave it hanging down until I am ready to move the brake hose to the new caliper. Less mess and less loss of fluid.

The brake hose is held on with a 16mm or 5/8 banjo bolt

To bleed this is my procedure. Make sure the reservoir is topped off.
Attach my oil change evacuation pump (i use this thing for so much):

20190724_191312.jpg
20190724_191315.jpg

Pump it up to start a good vacuum then open bleeder.
Go to the front of trailer and push the tongue back. It will move slowly. Put the lock out key in front of the slide.
The fluid will go down quickly so keep it filled. Let it do this for about 30 seconds.
Close bleeder , remove the key, pull back the tongue then do the same for the other caliper.
After this is done there might be some air still trapped. So with all bleeders closed i pushed the tounge back again and put the key in front of the slide again then cracked one bleeder slowly. I alternated to each side till i didn't see any air.
 
Last edited:

swatski

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As per @swatski request, I took pictures to document my caliper replacement. This is on my 2016 Shorlandr duel axle trailer. It has UFP DB-35 calipers. So if your trailer has the same brakes the procedure should be similar.
This all started because on my last 2 hour haul i lost both my bearing caps and the grease pushed out the center.
The rear hubs were very hot. So after i jacked up the trailer, I found both calipers dragging. I removed the calipers to find both pistons frozen.
This is what they looked like:
View attachment 100868

The rest of the hardware looked great:
View attachment 100869

The factory calipers are zinc coated with a chrome piston.
While this is not ideal, if you pull back the piston boot and massage some waterproof grease it will last a lot longer than 3 years. If i had known this would have happened I would have greased them when i first took the boat home.
Now first you have to obviously jack up the rear axle and put on stands to have both tires removed.
To remove the calipers there are 2 7mm allen bolts. Its tight but if you have an allen socket you can't get it in there with a ratchet, even with a swivel extension so try this:


If you have a ratchet wrench use it i stead
Yeah, this is new, lol, I know I never looked in there, and probably never would (until too late!), doubt many here have...
It's now a number one on my check list for the trailer. Great post!

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Neutron

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I goofed and started the thread before i finished it
Its done now
 

swatski

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I goofed and started the thread before i finished it
Its done now
Yeah the pictures and the explanations are GREAT!
Holly cow, I'm not sure I can tackle this, but if I try my boat will be off the trailer, I'm not nearly as nimble as you are, lol.

This should be an instant FAQ, @Administrative ?

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Neutron

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Yeah the pictures and the explanations are GREAT!
Holly cow, I'm not sure I can tackle this, but if I try my boat will be off the trailer, I'm not nearly as nimble as you are, lol.

This should be an instant FAQ, @Administrative ?

--
To remove just the calipers to inspect is very easy. That can be done with just a ratchet short extension and a 7mm allen socket.
The brackets dont need to be removed for caliper inspection and greased. Only if you replace them. And bleeding isnt necessary unless replacing as well.
To just inspect and grease should only take 1/2 hour to do

Btw i am 47 and far from nimble. Lol
I just ignore the pain and get it done
 

WestMIJet

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Well I just wrapped up this same task. Yesterday I replaced rotors, calipers and pads. I would add a couple things. The tip about the ratcheting wrench and Allen socket was perfect. I would add one thing to that tip, make sure you only loosen the bolt a little then get the socket and ratchet out before they are pinned in. With a ratcheting wrench you can’t go in reverse. You will only do this once.

The other issue I ran into was getting the rotors off. I pulled the cotter pin, but, washer and outer bearing, when I tried to pull the rotor it would move an inch or so but when I let go it would suck back. It seems it had a vacuum lock. This happened on both sides. I ended up putting a gear pulled on them and they both popped right off.

Hopefully this helps the next person.
 

Neutron

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The grease and rear grease seal will act like a vacuum when trying to pull it.
I can see what you mean about the pinned allen socket. I have many lengths in my set so it wasnt an issue for me.
But i did loosen one a bit then went to the other which allows for the bracket to move away from its perch.
 

WestMIJet

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Not me - on the first bolt I got the socket caught against the U-bolt on the leaf spring. I had to remove the U-bolt to get the socket out. 🤪
 

swatski

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Finally managed a pre-trip trailer service - getting ready for a Labor Day weekend long tow. I
was not brave enough to pull the calipers though, thankfully, no binding. Ended up doing my usual cleaning and greasing the hubs and equalizer zerks, soaking everything in CRC6-56, hope it's all good.
May take it to a trailer shop for brake service, off season? Or maybe I'll find courage to do it myself!

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nclacrosse

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Was inspecting my trailer yesterday, in prep for 2-3 hr haul for the weekend. The port side brakes are dragging a little. I don't have time for a replacement before tomorrow, but it will need to be done soon. Pretty decent amount of scoring on the rotor. Probably been dragging for a while, but I was under the false impression that a new trailer would function correctly for longer than this. Was going to try to use a C-clamp to compress the piston a little and see if that helps. Is it possible to just remove the top bolt and pivot the assembly enough to get a clamp in place?
 

swatski

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Was inspecting my trailer yesterday, in prep for 2-3 hr haul for the weekend. The port side brakes are dragging a little. I don't have time for a replacement before tomorrow, but it will need to be done soon. Pretty decent amount of scoring on the rotor. Probably been dragging for a while, but I was under the false impression that a new trailer would function correctly for longer than this. Was going to try to use a C-clamp to compress the piston a little and see if that helps. Is it possible to just remove the top bolt and pivot the assembly enough to get a clamp in place?
Hopefully @Neutron will chime in!
I do not know the answer, I’ve been shocked with this new trailer - it had virtually no grease anywhere from factory...
If nothing else before the weekend, i would make frequent stops to check the hub temps.
I know there are infrared thermometers, I just touch.

 

Neutron

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I tried a c-clamp on my old calipers and it wouldn't budge. Good luck. Peel back the piston boot and check for rust
 

nclacrosse

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I'm hoping it isn't too bad. Never been in salt water. @Neutron Do you know if the assembly can be rotated far enough by just removing the upper bolt?
 

Neutron

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I'm hoping it isn't too bad. Never been in salt water. @Neutron Do you know if the assembly can be rotated far enough by just removing the upper bolt?
I am pretty sure you can rotate up enough by just removing the lower bolt to get a clamp in there.
Mine hadnt seen salt water before i noticed the dragging.
 

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I'm just finishing up pads and rotors on my trailer. Here are some things I learned along the way. On my trailer the hex bolt that holds the caliper bracket was 9mm, not 3/8". While most hex socket sets don't come with 9mm, your local auto parts store should carry them if you don't already have one. Next is not all Kia Sephia pads are made alike. The 1st set I ordered were wrong. I spent the next 2 days hunting the correct pads.

Here is the wrong pad. Notice how the the old pad is half mooned on the edge that sits closest to the hub. The new pad needs that rounded as well. IMG_0727.JPG


Here is the correct padIMG_0730.JPG
 

Neutron

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M
I'm just finishing up pads and rotors on my trailer. Here are some things I learned along the way. On my trailer the hex bolt that holds the caliper bracket was 9mm, not 3/8". While most hex socket sets don't come with 9mm, your local auto parts store should carry them if you don't already have one. Next is not all Kia Sephia pads are made alike. The 1st set I ordered were wrong. I spent the next 2 days hunting the correct pads.

Here is the wrong pad. Notice how the the old pad is half mooned on the edge that sits closest to the hub. The new pad needs that rounded as well. View attachment 107558


Here is the correct padView attachment 107559
My set has a 9mm and wouldn't work on mine. Only allen that fit mine was 3/8
Who knows why there are inconsistencies
 

Roger Vrooman

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Great write-up, thanks... Do you have part numbers and/or links to where you purchased the parts @Neutron? Is there any special you have to do in order to grease the equalizers @Swatski? I had to pull both zerks as they corroded and could tell nothing would get through without a good cleaning... Test both Zerks before I put them back in the equalizers, but neither would take "any" grease... Maybe time for a rebuild?IMG_3090.JPG
 

Neutron

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Caliper Here is a link to one side, should be easy to search the other side

As far as the zerk, try tapping on the ball end of the zerk. I have had that work on occasion
 

Neutron

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Your very welcome
 
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