1. Welcome to Jetboaters.net!

    We are delighted you have found your way to the best Jet Boaters Forum on the internet! Please consider Signing Up so that you can enjoy all the features and offers on the forum. We have members with boats from all the major manufacturers including Yamaha, Seadoo, Scarab and Chaparral. We don't email you SPAM, and the site is totally non-commercial. So what's to lose? IT IS FREE!

    Membership allows you to ask questions (no matter how mundane), meet up with other jet boaters, see full images (not just thumbnails), browse the member map and qualifies you for members only discounts offered by vendors who run specials for our members only! (It also gets rid of this banner!)

    free hit counter

Started looking at my bearings and its not good

Discussion in 'Yamaha AR230, SX230, SR230 and 232 Limited / S' started by Johnny16, Nov 13, 2017.

  1. Johnny16

    Johnny16 New Member

    Messages:
    14
    Location:
    Alberta
    Ratings:
    +7 / 0
    Boat Make:
    Jetcraft
    Year:
    2008
    Boat Model:
    SX
    Boat Length:
    19
    So with the weather getting a little warmer and life giving me a chance to breath, I decided today was the day to head out to the storage facility and pull the impeller shaft and duct housing off of the boat. It was really quick and easy and I was on my way home with shaft in hand for further inspection.

    I took it to the bench and pulled the three screws out and pried the cone off with a screw driver. The cone came off pretty easy and I was greeted with some rusty water, a couple of loose ball bearings, and a mixture of black and red grease. I cleaned off the grease on the bearing and I could see the the bearing race was bent and popped out of the bearing. I was able to pull it out with my fingers. This was not what I wanted to see when I removed cone. This boat is new to me and I've only had a chance to get on the water once before the winter hit. The engine ran great but I was having cavitation issues and I'm assuming that this could be part of the reason.


    image.jpeg
    image.jpeg
     
  2. Johnny16

    Johnny16 New Member

    Messages:
    14
    Location:
    Alberta
    Ratings:
    +7 / 0
    Boat Make:
    Jetcraft
    Year:
    2008
    Boat Model:
    SX
    Boat Length:
    19
    Now I start looking at the back bearing and I notice that it's all ready loose on the shaft. I have play back there when I'm pretty sure I'm not supposed to have any and I can see where the bearing should be pressed onto the shaft. I thought I would quickly post my findings and see what you guys think. Now I'm headed back out to give it a little closer inspection.

    image.jpeg image.jpeg image.jpeg
     
  3. Bruce

    Bruce Jetboaters Fleet Admiral Staff Member Administrator

    Messages:
    9,718
    Location:
    Royal, AR
    Ratings:
    +8,775 / 49
    Boat Make:
    Yamaha
    Year:
    2007
    Boat Model:
    SX
    Boat Length:
    23
    • Like Like x 1
  4. swatski

    swatski Jetboaters Admiral

    Messages:
    4,900
    Location:
    Saint Louis, MO
    Ratings:
    +4,940 / 90
    Boat Make:
    Yamaha
    Year:
    2016
    Boat Model:
    AR
    Boat Length:
    24
    Yep, I think @Bruce is right on. Solas Dynafly DF 14/20. If those are in good shape, people generally love those, it is considered an upgrade.
    Looking at the pics of your bearings - those certainly need attention! - but I do not think that alone is the cause of your cavitation (impeller slippage) issues. More likely pump missing sealant (around the transom plate usually), or impeller dings - easy to check for it, or the OD diameter - if the gap between the impeller and wear ring is too large. Also check for bulges in the wear ring, especially if you are in salt. [EDIT: never mind - looks like you are in Alberta!] @Cobra Jet Steering LLC has posted here some great methods of dealing with that without buying expensive new parts.
    That 14/20 pitch - if that's what you have - should be aggressive enough I would think, those impellers should not really cavitate much (unless they are bent out of specs of course). What are your max RPM? Your boat model is listed as "jetcraft" but I'm assuming it's a yammie. Are you close to 10,000 at WOT?
     
    • Like Like x 1
    • Informative Informative x 1
  5. Beachbummer

    Beachbummer Jet Boat Lover

    Messages:
    384
    Location:
    Houston TX
    Ratings:
    +232 / 4
    Boat Make:
    Yamaha
    Year:
    2008
    Boat Model:
    SX
    Boat Length:
    23
    I see that you dodged a bullet here. Finding this before further damage means you get to replace the bearings only. This is great news as far as I'm concerned. It was sick, but there will be no scar once you are done, and it is the cheapest possible repair.

    Look on the bright side! Cheap, and you caught it in winter. May we all be this lucky.

    Best of luck.

    (To OP, Sorry you did not like my post. I still hope you have a quick return to full mechanical function)
     
    Last edited: Nov 14, 2017 at 10:47 AM
    • Agree Agree x 2
    • Like Like x 1
    • Dislike Dislike x 1
  6. Johnny16

    Johnny16 New Member

    Messages:
    14
    Location:
    Alberta
    Ratings:
    +7 / 0
    Boat Make:
    Jetcraft
    Year:
    2008
    Boat Model:
    SX
    Boat Length:
    19
    I have read your post quite a few times and my plan is to use the island racing jet pump grease instead of the oil for now. As far as the big parts go I will be replacing the impeller housing as there a few scrapes in there. I think the impeller was rubbing. When I bought the boat the guy told me he had just put a new impeller in and it was a 14/20 solas
     
    • Like Like x 2
  7. Johnny16

    Johnny16 New Member

    Messages:
    14
    Location:
    Alberta
    Ratings:
    +7 / 0
    Boat Make:
    Jetcraft
    Year:
    2008
    Boat Model:
    SX
    Boat Length:
    19
    I think your right swatski, I don't think it is the full reason for the cavitation but I think it's playing a part. If you look at the second picture in my original post, you can see that my spacer ring is jammed over top of the nut on the end of the shaft. I can't even get a wrench on the nut. I believe when the previous owner swapped out the impeller he forgot to put on the washer before he put on the nut. Because of this i think that the shaft had some play causing the impeller to slide back and forth in the housing. The motor sounds great and I have no issues hitting 10000 RPM at WOT. My problem is that I have to ease into the throttle or else I will cavitate. I also notice that when I hit 8500 it starts cavitate and I can't get any more out of the boat.
     
    Last edited: Nov 14, 2017 at 9:48 PM
  8. Johnny16

    Johnny16 New Member

    Messages:
    14
    Location:
    Alberta
    Ratings:
    +7 / 0
    Boat Make:
    Jetcraft
    Year:
    2008
    Boat Model:
    SX
    Boat Length:
    19
    It defiantly could of been worse beach bummer and I consider myself lucky. I look at is a valuable learning lesson and good way to figure out how to fix and maintain my boat. Luckily it is winter and I have time on my side to get everything done.
     
    • Agree Agree x 1
  9. swatski

    swatski Jetboaters Admiral

    Messages:
    4,900
    Location:
    Saint Louis, MO
    Ratings:
    +4,940 / 90
    Boat Make:
    Yamaha
    Year:
    2016
    Boat Model:
    AR
    Boat Length:
    24
    Those aftermarket impellers like Solas and Skat should sit pretty close to the vane segment when installed, moving smoothly but with not back and forth play:
    upload_2017-11-14_22-9-37.png

    If your impeller(s) could slide forward that might explain the cavitation/ventilation you describe - clearly way too much. The good news is, this should be pretty strait forward to fix and the results should be amazing.

    --
     

Share This Page