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Steps for Rejex!

Chichi1108

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Gents,

As always this group has educated me on numerous things In regards to my boat. And as always I need your help again! I have read through the forums and before committing I wanted to make sure I was headed in the right direction. I planned on trying to get a few scratches out of my boat and then apply Rejex since I have heard nothing but good things about the product. Can the group verify I’m doing it right?

1) Wash boat with dawn soap.
2) Apply 3m marine rubbing Compound (using DA from harbor freight).
3) Apply Rejex.(let the boat sit for 12 hours after removing Rejex)

C4D3242D-1409-40FF-B31B-A4AD84338BE4.jpegC808B226-E7F8-403F-9076-03BC095208B9.jpeg50FBA641-AA4D-4ED6-9D39-76B7E9B3D7DE.jpeg
 

Chevyguy2021

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Sometimes some might recommend a polish before a wax/protectant after compounding.
For example, meguairs sells a kit, its a compound, then polish, then wax.
 

Chichi1108

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Sometimes some might recommend a polish before a wax/protectant after compounding.
For example, meguairs sells a kit, its a compound, then polish, then wax.
On previous discussions members have mentioned that Rejex should be applied on a surface that’s wax free for better results. Because of this I decided to go with the 3m rubbing compound since there is no wax in the product. But if I’m wrong please let me know?
 

Elliott

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You will want to polish the surface after compounding it. There are many polishes that are wax free (read the label carefully). If you do not polish the surface after an aggressive cutting compound, you will have an area with a general dullness up to visible light scratches. Go to the 3M site, and you will see their polishes under the Perfect It line.
 

afdouble

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Gents,

As always this group has educated me on numerous things In regards to my boat. And as always I need your help again! I have read through the forums and before committing I wanted to make sure I was headed in the right direction. I planned on trying to get a few scratches out of my boat and then apply Rejex since I have heard nothing but good things about the product. Can the group verify I’m doing it right?

1) Wash boat with dawn soap.
2) Apply 3m marine rubbing Compound (using DA from harbor freight).
3) Apply Rejex.(let the boat sit for 12 hours after removing Rejex)

View attachment 114781View attachment 114782View attachment 114783

Chi Chi--

I am by no means an expert, but here are a couple of things to consider. Feel free to fact-check everything that comes from keyboard-experts like me.

Generally speaking, any clear coat/gel coat sealant and waxes can be applied without any prior steps. For instance, a brand new boat or car wouldn't need anything proper to waxing (carnuba) or sealing (man made wax like Rejex). The condition of the paint dictates what you need done. If the paint (clear or gel coat) is fine, then Rejex and other waxes adhere to the surface better if there is no residual wax or sealant. To obtain this surface, most wash with Dawn detergent which strips waxes. Some follow up with a misting of 70% IPA. Then they coat the car with wax or Rejex.

If your paint needs correction, or in your boat shows oxidation, you can still apply Rejex ro wax, but it will not correct the oxidation. To correct the oxidation you need to compound it out or polish it, depending on the degree of oxidation. Whatever you do, do not use a 2-in-1, like a cleaner wax. It will polish but add wax. the additional wax will inhibit the adseion of the Rejex. Think of it as a layer of wax under the Rejex.

Compounding is extreme and required for lots of oxidation. it will need to be followed op by polishing. clear coat and gel coat can only be compounded/polished so many times before you effectively remove the coating and are down to paint. So you want to take these steps sparingly and only when needed. For example, don't compound and polish you car yearly. It is why you want to protect the paint (with Rejex or something similar) 1-3 time per year.

As a recommendation, you appear to have a 2019 boat. I doubt it needs a compounding. If it does, it probably needs no more than a polishing with a white/blue pad on a DA polisher. I would just wash it with Dawn and coat it in Rejex. then after, you can wash it with wax safe wash, you don't want to wash with Dawn again as it will strip the Rejex. You can hit it with boat bling or meguairs Express Wax in between applications of Rejex to keep the wax in good shape. Inside of the boat should be protected with 303 Protectant.

But again, fact check me. I am just a keyboard expert who cleans his own boat.
 

Elliott

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The OP said he wanted to compound an area to remove some scratches (shown in first photo) - not oxidation. It is difficult to determine how bad the scratches/scuffs are in that photo, but they would certainly require some polishing and/or compound.
 

djetok

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Gents,

As always this group has educated me on numerous things In regards to my boat. And as always I need your help again! I have read through the forums and before committing I wanted to make sure I was headed in the right direction. I planned on trying to get a few scratches out of my boat and then apply Rejex since I have heard nothing but good things about the product. Can the group verify I’m doing it right?



View attachment 114781View attachment 114782View attachment 114783
1) Wash boat with dawn soap.
2) Apply 3m marine rubbing Compound (using DA from harbor freight).
3) Wash boat area compounded with Dawn soap (this will strip any wax from the compounding)
4) Apply Rejex.(let the boat sit for 12 hours after removing Rejex)

From the pic the scratch looks really light. You might try to remove them with just a cleaner wax (nothing expensive as it will just be removed, just nothing abrasive)


Rejex will work over wax, it will not last as long because the wax breaks down quicker and would be under the rejex. Therefore it will fall off with the wax. You can wax over top but as far I am concerned, it is not needed. Rejex has UV protection so there is no need for wax.
 
Last edited:

afdouble

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The OP said he wanted to compound an area to remove some scratches (shown in first photo) - not oxidation. It is difficult to determine how bad the scratches/scuffs are in that photo, but they would certainly require some polishing and/or compound.
evidently reading comprehension is not my strong point...ha.

i agree with you, though scratches will always require some polish and/or compound. I always like to start with the least amount of cut for scratches until i get the desired correction. I'm also with you-- can't see enough from the pictures to form an opinion on how to correct.
 

Chichi1108

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The OP said he wanted to compound an area to remove some scratches (shown in first photo) - not oxidation. It is difficult to determine how bad the scratches/scuffs are in that photo, but they would certainly require some polishing and/or compound.
My nail doesn't even get caught in them when running my finger nail across them.
 

djetok

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My nail doesn't even get caught in them when running my finger nail across them.
Cleaner wax. Just get some from the auto parts store or walmart ect
 

Chichi1108

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Cleaner wax. Just get some from the auto parts store or walmart ect
Last question I swear lol Should Rejex be applied by hand or with the machine?
 

Elliott

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No experience with Rejex, but a machine will always do a better job. You will have a better bond to the surface, and that will give you a longer lasting treatment. When you spread a wax/sealant, you use a lower speed (typically 2 out of 6 on the speed control) with a soft, waxing pad. You also are going to only cover an area once (twice really since you will use an overlapping cross over pattern - left/right then up/down) with medium arm speed. You are just spreading the product - not correcting the finish.
 

djetok

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Last question I swear lol Should Rejex be applied by hand or with the machine?
By hand. Rejex is temp sensitive

Follow the directions on the side. 85 degrees is important.
 

Elliott

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Chichi1108

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So I got the glass finish I wanted but I can’t get the scratch out for the life of me I tried all the pads. With 3m finesse it, idk if at the end of the season to try a compounding product on that one area. Or would it possibly need sanding which in that case I have no experience in that lol.
 

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Elliott

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It is difficult to determine how bad the scratch/scuff is from the photo; they are always tough to photograph. Is the mark 3 dimensional - how does it feel to your finger tips? When you buffed it, did it shrink in size - did the lighter areas disappear?

With today's compounds, it is unlikely that actual sanding will be required (it can be faster, but it also can take longer).
 

afdouble

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So I got the glass finish I wanted but I can’t get the scratch out for the life of me I tried all the pads. With 3m finesse it, idk if at the end of the season to try a compounding product on that one area. Or would it possibly need sanding which in that case I have no experience in that lol.

I think 3M Finesse It is an entire line of products. Perhaps you used the equivalent of a wax/sealant. Waxes/sealants provide a great finish, but do not offer "correction."

You need a product with some abrasive properties. You can likely just get some marine oxidation remover and use it, it has the abrasive properties you need. If you get heavy oxidation remover, it is more closely related to a compound (more abrasive qualities). If you get a light oxidation remover, then it is closer to a polish.
 

Chevyguy2021

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So I got the glass finish I wanted but I can’t get the scratch out for the life of me I tried all the pads. With 3m finesse it, idk if at the end of the season to try a compounding product on that one area. Or would it possibly need sanding which in that case I have no experience in that lol.
I am curious as well. I have a few scratches like that. I had a marine polish but it wasn't strong enough so I ordered a more abrasive one that will be here sat. If that doesn't work I plan to try wetsanding.
 

Chichi1108

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I am curious as well. I have a few scratches like that. I had a marine polish but it wasn't strong enough so I ordered a more abrasive one that will be here sat. If that doesn't work I plan to try wetsanding.
Please keep me posted I just applied the Rejex, and I love the outcome so far.
 

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Chichi1108

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It is difficult to determine how bad the scratch/scuff is from the photo; they are always tough to photograph. Is the mark 3 dimensional - how does it feel to your finger tips? When you buffed it, did it shrink in size - did the lighter areas disappear?

With today's compounds, it is unlikely that actual sanding will be required (it can be faster, but it also can take longer).
My finger nail dosent get caught in it.
When I buffed it, the size did get smaller.
 
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