Stereo upgrade help

[robert843]

So I have installed several amps and subs over the years in cars and boats but I have never installed multiple amps so I have a few questions. First I plan to run a power block to a location closer to the helm to assist with amp install and other items I plan to add which would be a gps and a shower kit. When doing this do you install the inline fuse to the size of the capabilities of the bus box so for example it it has a 100 amp max you put a 100 amp inline fuse in or do you only run to the capabilities of the devices you have added so even if the bus box has 100 amp peak but you only have 80 amps of items on it do you use the 100 amp fuse or the 80 amp? One of my amps has two fuses on it a 35 amp and a 40 amp does this amp need to be connected to a 75 amp fuse at the bus box or just a 40 amp since the largest fuse is 40? Basics tells me 40 amp as 75 amps would blow the first fuse but I'm really not sure. Also ant recommendations on a power block as most I see are to low of amps for what I plan as it looks like I will need a minimum of two connections that can handle 40 amps each just for the amps and most I see cap at 30 amps? Lastly can I connect both amps remote grounds to the head units one remote ground wire or is that asking to much of it. I willl tag a few who may know my answers @Earmark Marine @David Analog @Andy S @Julian @Bruce @Drift Away @swatski

 

[Julian]

On my SX230, I ran RCAs back to the battery compartment because it was so much easier than running big power wires to the helm.

When I added another amp to my 242x I piggy backed off the remote wire on one of the existing amps.

 

[swatski]

I did kind of the opposite of @Julian - I ran big Knukonceptz wires to the helm using a large 150Amp breaker:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001PT7XBE/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o08_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I have a bunch of instruments in the helm, so I needed power anyway.
This is what I mean, LOL:


You want the main fuse/breaker to be able to handle a maximum load on all devices you would run at the same time. My ballast pumps are the major suckers for power, each of the 4 is fused at 25Amp.


The big 150 Amp Bussmann breaker is by the battery - mounted on the battery compartment wall that I rebuilt, don't have a good pic:


Here is the wire I used, on @Mainah recommendation. This wire is phenomenal.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0050X0LEC/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1


Going over the fuel tank is relatively easy, too. I loom everything there and then use a pool noodle to prevent any chafing and rattling.


I ended up manufacturing my own mini-distribution blocks for easy access:


Having those all routed and labelled for easy access in the helm lets me disconnect/reconnect the pumps when not needed - for example, when going to Bimini I did not want to think about accidentally activating a pump in the middle of Florida Strait, LOL, etc. Here are various stages of this project:


I run many cables, partially loomed, inside the strbd gunnel - lots of wires... including ballast etc. Taking cup holders out helps.



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[Mainah]

A large fuse/ breaker should be within 12 inches of the battery and rated below the capacity of the gauge and length of the main feed wires. Its pupose is to protect against shorts or looses connections (fire/melt prevention). In the runs to the distribution block. The fuses at the distribution block will protect the wires going from it to the amps and the amps. If your amps have fuses and the runs from the block to the amps and very short then a fused distribution block is not really needed but still good in case a connection becomes loose or terminals get bridged. The fuses in the amps will protect the amps. In the case of 40 amp fuses in the amps and a fused block I would use 50 amp fuses in the block, minimum of 4 AWG main runs and a 100 amp breaker/fuse at the battery.

I went just a bit overkill with my setup running high grade 0 AWG to the helm but it will handle anything I ever add on too. I will only ever use knukonceptz wire for high current draw projects in cars or boats now. You can buy directly from thier website in custom lengths. I think the name of the wire I like from them is called flexs or something like that.

Here is the install I did. I have since upgraded to all polk mm and cut in 6.5 in the black side panels which made a much bigger difference than the 6x9s down low. If I were to do it over I would go with jl audio speakers even though twice the price.

https://jetboaters.net/threads/detailed-2016-242-ls-1k-audio-upgrade.9400/

 

[Wr3ckdiver]

Ok @swatski gets my vote for MOD GUY of the YEAR, wholly crap that's a lot of mods, especially the ballast tanks.....lol

 

[robert843]

Thanks @Mainah I plan similar concept running 0 gauge wire and setting it for anything that needs to be added latter. I agree on the overkill I have watched a wire catch fire before on a friends boat it happens fast and the heat is tremendous. So it sounds like I'm not going to find a fused power block that is going to handle what I need though so I may have to go a similar path as you and buy what appears to be a car stereo power block or make one like @swatski just nervous doing a non fused one. Is 100 amp fuse at the battery big enough I already know my amplifiers have 3 fuses 40 amp, 40amp, and 35 amp that will be running off this before I add a gps, shower kit and trim tabs or will I need a larger fuse then?

 

[adrianp89]

Fuses are in amperage not wattage.

http://www.knukonceptz.com/mobile-audio/inline-fuse-holders/sp/in-line-waterproof-anl-fuse-holder-w-fuse/

This is waterproof and will fuse more amperage than anyone will never need on a boat, they also have fused power blocks that could handle a total of 1200 amps.

 

[robert843]

Fuses are in amperage not wattage.

http://www.knukonceptz.com/mobile-audio/inline-fuse-holders/sp/in-line-waterproof-anl-fuse-holder-w-fuse/

This is waterproof and will fuse more amperage than anyone will never need on a boat, they also have fused power blocks that could handle a total of 1200 amps.

Sorry was typing fast and working fixed it for ya. I have no issues finding an inline fuse that can handle up to 300 amps it is finding a power box that is fused with at least 6 connections on it that can handle that 300 amp load but based on @swatski pic of his bus bar I may not need it.

 

[Mainah]

I used a 150amp anl inline fuse in a waterproof holder from knuknoceptz for my setup at this point. The block is audiopipe brand which is not known for being the best but I really do like it overall. You can always run second block behind the first with a bigger fuse for the channel feeding the second block. The block I used is not waterproof but it is mounted high and I really like that it handles both high and ground in one unit and have no qualms recommending it.

On the remote wire. I have never encountered an issue with running multiple amps off of one remote wire. If you run into an issue then you could always use the remote wire as a trigger for a relay.

 

[robert843]

Thanks for the help @swatski @Julian @adrianp89 @Mainah i think I have what I need info wise to get started. I have a little free time on Saturday which is rare so I wanted to go ahead and run the power block to its location now to see if I can source the parts locally thanks.

 

[swatski]

running 0 gauge wire and setting it for anything that needs to be added latter.

Do you plan to run a welder at the helm or what? LOL. But seriously - you will know what I mean when you see that wire in person!
4AWG (in that quality) is absolutely enough for what you actually planning to run but there is no disadvantage in going bigger - as far as safety. Please consider, however, you will still need to thread this baby across the boat and make all the connections. 0AWG... is big.

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[robert843]

Do you plan to run a welder at the helm or what? LOL. But seriously - you will know what I mean when you see that wire in person!
4AWG (in that quality) is absolutely enough for what you actually planning to run but there is no disadvantage in going bigger - as far as safety. Please consider, however, you will still need to thread this baby across the boat and make all the connections. 0AWG... is big.

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I have worked with 0AWG wire before yes I remember it not being very user friendly during the install. Did you run all your stuff with 4AWG going to the helm because if you did I will def go that route as I don't plan to have all you have in the end.

 

[haknslash]

When I did care stereo/video installations we would make some brutal self defense 'weapons' using 0 AWG . It ain't no joke lol.

 

[Julian]

I have a bunch of instruments in the helm, so I needed power anyway.

Oh...I ran wire to the helm, but just not monster power wire for major amps. I ran 8awg to the helm to run GPS, lights, fume detector, bilge alarm, USB outlet and 12v outlet - adding this to my new boat was one of my first mods! LOL

Below was my first wiring diagram....and I've added more since then that I need to add (marine radio, antenna, wiring to the soundbar)

 

[GTBRMC]

Do you plan to run a welder at the helm or what? LOL.

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Oh, man, I just about shot a mouthful of fried rice through my nose on that one!

I will add another recommendation for KnuKonceptz wire. Very satisfied on product performance + ease of use + durability + cosmetics AND on price + service + ease of doing business on the sale (or sales, I've used them for multiple boat and home projects). Highly recommended.

 

[swatski]

I have worked with 0AWG wire before yes I remember it not being very user friendly during the install. Did you run all your stuff with 4AWG going to the helm because if you did I will def go that route as I don't plan to have all you have in the end.

Yep, 4AWG. More than big enough wire (of this brand/type) for sure. Like everyone else said, a good breaker or fuse by the battery is necessary for protection.
If I recall I got 20ft of each (red and black), which is plenty if you go across the fuel tank. May need additional 5-10ft if you go around the gunnels.

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[adrianp89]

I would recommend double fusing. Even though the fuses are waterproof - we are dealing with being on the water... not an engine bay. I would fuse next to battery and next to amplifier... unless you mount the amp by the battery. A $20 fuse could save you 50k. The only potential concern is voltage drop - and we are no close to that being an issue with this level of power.

 

[robert843]

I would recommend double fusing. Even though the fuses are waterproof - we are dealing with being on the water... not an engine bay. I would fuse next to battery and next to amplifier... unless you mount the amp by the battery. A $20 fuse could save you 50k. The only potential concern is voltage drop - and we are no close to that being an issue with this level of power.

I was thinking the same at least on the amps. One of the amplifiers has two fuses on it a 40 amp and a 35 amp does anyone know if I were to add a fuse from the box to the amp would I need a 75 amp fuse or just a 40 amp fuse.

 

[Mainah]

Is the amp with 2 fuses on board a 3, 5, or 7 channel amp? Only reason O can think of for there being two seperate rated fuses. At any rate I recommend fusing the block to that amp at 5-10% higher than the total.

 

[robert843]

Is the amp with 2 fuses on board a 3, 5, or 7 channel amp? Only reason O can think of for there being two seperate rated fuses. At any rate I recommend fusing the block to that amp at 5-10% higher than the total.

4 channel amp its a Polk PA D4000.4