Surge Brake Questions

[VONCE]

How easy or difficult should it be to move the surge brake actuator when the trailer is disconnected from the tow vehicle? Should you be able to do it by hand or will you need a pry lever of some sort? Should it rest in a certain position - should it automatically spring back to be fully disengaged or does it rely on the tow vehicle for that? I recently ordered a bunch of new brake parts, but now I'm a little concerned my issue might be the master cylinder.

 

[Ronnie]

Should be easy for an adult over 140 lbs. the brake actuator won't spring forward or back on its own. Make sure you bleed the system of any air before you test it.

 

[blacksapphirez]

normally it would be very difficult to press the actuator. if you open the bleeder valve, it will be easier.

 

[Ronnie]

I've pushed mine In and retracted it with my bare hands several times in the past, usually to insert the mechanical lockout/D key if I've already separated the trailer from the tow vehicle. It seems easy too me and I don't have extraordinary upper body strength.

To test the brakes I would either manually or with a tow vehicle push the actuator all the way in and then try pushing the trailer around by hand. If the wheels are locked up or very difficult to turn the brakes are working. Do the reverse to see if the brakes are disengaging properly.

Btw, i do an accidental break test every time I back up the driveway without inserting the lockout/ D key first. The wheels lock up and leave skid marks on the street and sidewalk until I stop/realize what's happened.

 

[swatski]

How easy or difficult should it be to move the surge brake actuator when the trailer is disconnected from the tow vehicle? Should you be able to do it by hand or will you need a pry lever of some sort? Should it rest in a certain position - should it automatically spring back to be fully disengaged or does it rely on the tow vehicle for that? I recently ordered a bunch of new brake parts, but now I'm a little concerned my issue might be the master cylinder.

The actuator should not feel spongy or mushy or soft, it should be hard and move barely if at all when pushed by hand(s), it is designed to be pushed by a 5,000 lbs trailer - you should still be able to activate the actuator/brakes by hand (just don't expect it to move much when doing it manually). Most people would just prop up one side of the trailer, spin the wheel (the best you can), and have someone else push the actuator - the wheel should stop.
If the actuator slides in too easily, you may have air in the system or something else going on, there is an orifice there that moves the fluid that maybe out of whack.

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[itsdgm]

Mine is extremely difficult to push in by hand. I've used a 2x4 before to push it in before to bleed the brakes (there is an easier way to use a screwdriver from underneath). I can pull it back out easier, but it is still difficult by hand.

 

[VONCE]

Okay. I ordered calipers, rubber hoses, and pads. I didn't order a master cylinder. I plan on flushing out the old fluid and bleeding the system. Hopefully this will cure everything. My brakes seemed to work before, but not very well. I think a caliper was sticking. I'm replacing the wheel bearings regardless, so I figured I'd just do this all at once. I am on board with those saying it should be pretty difficult to push by hand. Otherwise the brakes would activate far too often if it were that loose. I'll replace everything and see where I'm at. Parts should be here later this week. I was hoping I'd be able to get a boat ride in this weekend but it's looking like it won't be ready.

 

[Ronnie]

Now I'm wondering if something is wrong with my brakes, I will check them out this weekend. If anything is wrong with the actuator I'd just replace the whole assembly for about $140. It will be with the time saved, I learned this the hard way by spending over two hours replacing a the emergency / safety brake cable (which cost just $3).

 

[2nazt]

You can use just a long heavy duty flat blade screwdriver and if you look underneath by the master cylinder you can see the piece to push with the screwdriver. No need for 2x4 and such. Just move it back and easily bleed and test by yourself. Jack up a tire and spin it and go back and push on the part with the screwdriver. If you push to far it will click and lock. Just hit the lever to release at that point.

Watch at the 6:00 min mark

 

[blacksapphirez]

thats only with the bleeder valve open!

 

[swatski]

Now I'm wondering if something is wrong with my brakes, I will check them out this weekend. If anything is wrong with the actuator I'd just replace the whole assembly for about $140. It will be with the time saved, I learned this the hard way by spending over two hours replacing a the emergency / safety brake cable (which cost just $3).

Keep us posted. It could be something easy or more tricky - there is that thing called restrictor orifice or soemthing like that is supposed to prevent the on/off cycling of breaks engaging when down-slope driving.

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[CrankyGypsy]

i had recently thought my calipers were to blame for sticking. i replaced the discs, calipers, and hoses a couple years ago, but salvaged the rough-looking actuator. i occasionally found the brakes were heating up during the tow like they weren't fully releasing. i had to replace the springs this year, so went ahead and also ordered the entire actuator assembly as the reservoir was gunking up (rust). i used compressed air to blow the old fluid out from the caliper to the front most joint (at the actuator), installed the new actuator, and re-bled with a vac brake bleeder. though i haven't taken it on the road yet, i feel the calipers are more completely disengaging (had the axle on jackstands) even though i didn't clean them up ...this leads me to believe the calipers were sticking secondary to a failure in the old actuator.

 

[Ronnie]

I did a quick check when I got home tonight. After pushing the brake release tab under the tongue I was able to move the surge brake mechanism about half way through its range of travel. It was more difficult to do than I remember but overall not that hard (I wasn't pushing off a wall or using two hands, just did it from a kneeling position with one hand).

On a related note, I recall seeing a Zirk fitting on the back of each brake caliper. Does anyone know how often to put grease in them or how to tell when there is enough in there?

 

[blacksapphirez]

THAT IS NOT A ZIRK FITTING!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

its a bleeder valve!

 

[Ronnie]

Thanks for the quick reply. I should have known that but it's been a while since I've been down there. I'm glad I never tried to put grease in there.

 

[blacksapphirez]

didn't mean to go ape shit here but didn't want you to attempt to put grease in there lol

 

[KXCam22]

I would like a picture of you with your grease gun attached. Cam.

 

[VONCE]

I broke some brake lines when I was trying to loosen some line nuts. But that's fine by me. Better them break in the garage instead of on the road (like my truck a few months ago). Right now I only have the hose attached to the actuator master cylinder. I am now able to push the actuator but it only travels about 3/4 inch. I'm thinking this might be normal - it shouldn't travel too freely, right? How much does your actuator move by hand when unhooked? No lever or anything, only your muscles.

 

[swatski]

How much does your actuator move by hand when unhooked? No lever or anything, only your muscles.

Zero... I mean there is some play on the components, but I can't tell I can push it in at all (by hand).

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[blacksapphirez]

Say, turn your car off. press brake few times to get the residual vacuum in the brake booster and see if you can move the pedal.

same concept for the trailer surge brakes except there is no booster