The search continues

[Lth101]

I’ve looked at about 5 Yamaha boats within a 5 hour radius of me and they have all been in pretty crappy condition or people want way too much money for what they have.

I finally found one that looks like it’s in pretty good condition with a decent trailer for 32k. It’s a 2011 242 Limited S but when I popped the hatch to look at the motors they looked a little rusty and someone evidently sprayed lube all over both motors. There was also about an inch of water in the bilge. Would this clean up nice or does it look like they have been neglecting it? Both motors started right up.

 

[Dave burke]

Hard to tell from the pics but they don’t look that bad to me for a 12 year old boat. Is there a lot of rust? What does the owner say?

Is the boat otherwise in good condition? Has it ever seen salt water?

And did you take the boat out for a test drive? If not, this is a must.

I'd probably also take it to a marine mechanic you trust.

 

[Ronnie]

Looks alright to me. You have to expect some blemishes on 12 year old boat unless it was never used.

A lot of people coat the engines in crc/wd40 to prevent rust, so I would not be concerned about that.

I would ask to take it for a short test ride/sea trial. The boat should top out at about 50 mph and each engine should spin up to 7,600 rpm. While you are at it cycle through the menus on the gauges for the engine hours. If the seller won’t allow you to test drive it I’d be very suspicious unless the reason made sense (e.g. he is selling the boat remotely) but even so something should be arranged.

Short of a test ride either compression check the all cyclinders on both engines, have the seller do it in front of you or pay someone to do it. Compression should be between 150 and 180 psi. Check that the oil coolers have all the bolts mounted On their covers. that is, none of the bolt heads have popped off (this shouldn’t be a problem in a 2011 but some 2010s had bad oil cooler covers so I recommend you take a look anyway).

take a good look at the anodes mounted on /near the thrust nozzle, just to see how worn and / or pitted they are. It’s an older boat so they shouldn’t look brand new but they shouldn’t be depleted (thin , heavily pitted) either which indicates the boat has spent a lot of time in the water even if it has low engine hours. Not a deal breaker but a possible source of follow up questions.

finally don’t forget to check out the trailer for wear and general road worthiness even if you plan to wet slip the boat, you still have to get it home/to your slip initially. If it’s galvanized you don’t need to be very concerned about rust. If it’s painted pull the plastic caps at the end of each rail and check for rust / corrosion. You can also check for the same at the openings created when the tongue is folded open and / or at the weep (drainage) holes (if any) under the main and / or support rails.

Good luck.

 

[FSH 210 Sport]

I’ve looked at about 5 Yamaha boats within a 5 hour radius of me and they have all been in pretty crappy condition or people want way too much money for what they have.

I finally found one that looks like it’s in pretty good condition with a decent trailer for 32k. It’s a 2011 242 Limited S but when I popped the hatch to look at the motors they looked a little rusty and someone evidently sprayed lube all over both motors. There was also about an inch of water in the bilge. Would this clean up nice or does it look like they have been neglecting it? Both motors started right up.

An inch of water in the bilge ? You mean right there under the engines? If that’s true that means the plug is in, and also means the bilge pumps may not be working..

In the FAQ section there is a list of things you should be looking for. @Ronnie and @Dave burke have some great suggestions. As far as anodes go, I’d have a mechanic pull the engine anodes, and the spark plugs, well those will have to come with @Ronnie ’s compression check.

How many hours ?
Salt or fresh water ?
How does the steering feel? Smooth and easy or rough and stiff?
What does the engine oil look like? Does it smell burnt or old?
Open every hatch and stick your head in there and have a look. Too small to get your head in? Use your phone and take vids.

 

[haolegirl70]

Looks alright to me. You have to expect some blemishes on 12 year old boat unless it was never used.

A lot of people coat the engines in crc/wd40 to prevent rust, so I would not be concerned about that.

I would ask to take it for a short test ride/sea trial. The boat should top out at about 50 mph and each engine should spin up to 7,600 rpm. While you are at it cycle through the menus on the gauges for the engine hours. If the seller won’t allow you to test drive it I’d be very suspicious unless the reason made sense (e.g. he is selling the boat remotely) but even so something should be arranged.

Short of a test ride either compression check the all cyclinders on both engines, have the seller do it in front of you or pay someone to do it. Compression should be between 150 and 180 psi. Check that the oil coolers have all the bolts mounted On their covers. that is, none of the bolt heads have popped off (this shouldn’t be a problem in a 2011 but some 2010s had bad oil cooler covers so I recommend you take a look anyway).

take a good look at the anodes mounted on /near the thrust nozzle, just to see how worn and / or pitted they are. It’s an older boat so they shouldn’t look brand new but they shouldn’t be depleted (thin , heavily pitted) either which indicates the boat has spent a lot of time in the water even if it has low engine hours. Not a deal breaker but a possible source of follow up questions.

finally don’t forget to check out the trailer for wear and general road worthiness even if you plan to wet slip the boat, you still have to get it home/to your slip initially. If it’s galvanized you don’t need to be very concerned about rust. If it’s painted pull the plastic caps at the end of each rail and check for rust / corrosion. You can also check for the same at the openings created when the tongue is folded open and / or at the weep (drainage) holes (if any) under the main and / or support rails.

Good luck.

I can't speak for a 12 year old boat but our 2021 Yamaha AR250 won't even top out at 50mph and the more people you add, the slower it goes.

 

[Lth101]

Looks alright to me. You have to expect some blemishes on 12 year old boat unless it was never used.

A lot of people coat the engines in crc/wd40 to prevent rust, so I would not be concerned about that.

I would ask to take it for a short test ride/sea trial. The boat should top out at about 50 mph and each engine should spin up to 7,600 rpm. While you are at it cycle through the menus on the gauges for the engine hours. If the seller won’t allow you to test drive it I’d be very suspicious unless the reason made sense (e.g. he is selling the boat remotely) but even so something should be arranged.

Short of a test ride either compression check the all cyclinders on both engines, have the seller do it in front of you or pay someone to do it. Compression should be between 150 and 180 psi. Check that the oil coolers have all the bolts mounted On their covers. that is, none of the bolt heads have popped off (this shouldn’t be a problem in a 2011 but some 2010s had bad oil cooler covers so I recommend you take a look anyway).

take a good look at the anodes mounted on /near the thrust nozzle, just to see how worn and / or pitted they are. It’s an older boat so they shouldn’t look brand new but they shouldn’t be depleted (thin , heavily pitted) either which indicates the boat has spent a lot of time in the water even if it has low engine hours. Not a deal breaker but a possible source of follow up questions.

finally don’t forget to check out the trailer for wear and general road worthiness even if you plan to wet slip the boat, you still have to get it home/to your slip initially. If it’s galvanized you don’t need to be very concerned about rust. If it’s painted pull the plastic caps at the end of each rail and check for rust / corrosion. You can also check for the same at the openings created when the tongue is folded open and / or at the weep (drainage) holes (if any) under the main and / or support rails.

Good luck.

This boat is at a certified Yamaha Dealer right on a marina.They will charge me 2 hours labor to go over every mechanical aspect of the boat by certified yamaha technicians and make sure the trailer is road worthy upon purchase. They said they do not survey the hull. Should I hire someone separate for a sea trial and to inspect the hull/trailer?

 

[Cobra Jet Steering LLC]

Isn't that around the year of the beginning of the timing chain fiasco

 

[Ronnie]

This boat is at a certified Yamaha Dealer right on a marina.They will charge me 2 hours labor to go over every mechanical aspect of the boat by certified yamaha technicians and make sure the trailer is road worthy upon purchase. They said they do not survey the hull. Should I hire someone separate for a sea trial and to inspect the hull/trailer?

I would ask the yamaha dealer to take me for a test ride. What does certified get you? If they say the engine checks out and it fails or just doesn’t perform they way you expected to (eg tops out at 35 not 50), can you return the boat for a full refund? Will they “fix it” at no cost to you?

 

[Ronnie]

I can't speak for a 12 year old boat but our 2021 Yamaha AR250 won't even top out at 50mph and the more people you add, the slower it goes.

250s are longer and I assume heavier than 240s and most use the same engines (some may be supercharged) so it shouldn’t be a surprise that it’s not as fast. Since this boat is at a dealer, it’s likely empty of close to it of gear and gas, plus if they allow it to be test driven their wouldn’t be many people on board so 50 to 52 mph is what I would expect.

 

[Lth101]

I would ask the yamaha dealer to take me for a test ride. What does certified get you? If they say the engine checks out and it fails or just doesn’t perform they way you expected to (eg tops out at 35 not 50), can you return the boat for a full refund? Will they “fix it” at no cost to you?

The dealer is selling the boat for someone who originally bought the boat brand new there. I have contingencies is my contract, the trailer has to be in roadworthy condition and everything on the boat has to be functioning properly and I have to approve of the Sea trial or I can back out and get my deposit at any time ($500). I’m paying their service department (certified Yamaha techs) to go over the whole boat (Everything mechanical, engine compressions ect) and then we will do a sea trial. If anything needs to be fixed then me and the person selling the boat have to negotiate, but they seem pretty willing to do what’s necessary. Upon my inspection I saw one of the clean out plugs was stuck and they already agreed to pay to have both of them rebuilt.

 

[Lth101]

An inch of water in the bilge ? You mean right there under the engines? If that’s true that means the plug is in, and also means the bilge pumps may not be working..

In the FAQ section there is a list of things you should be looking for. @Ronnie and @Dave burke have some great suggestions. As far as anodes go, I’d have a mechanic pull the engine anodes, and the spark plugs, well those will have to come with @Ronnie ’s compression check.

How many hours ?
Salt or fresh water ?
How does the steering feel? Smooth and easy or rough and stiff?
What does the engine oil look like? Does it smell burnt or old?
Open every hatch and stick your head in there and have a look. Too small to get your head in? Use your phone and take vids.

The boat has 250 hrs, supposedly a fresh water boat, I’m paying the dealership (Certified Yamaha dealer with certified Yamaha techs) to look over the whole boat and trailer and to make sure everything is operational and working correctly (compression test, everything electrical ect.)

The dealership is helping someone sell the boat wich was originally bought there brand new. I paid a fully refundable 500 deposit( so no one else can buy it as we go through the process) based on everything in the boat functioning as it should, approved sea trial, and the trailer being fully road worthy and safe wich is I have in writing.

If they find things that need to be fixed me and the seller have to negotiate I suppose but upon my own visual inspection I foundone cleanout plug completely stuck and they told me they would rebuild both of them without hesitation. So hopefully the inspections and sea trial go well.

I got them to go down to 31k

 

[FSH 210 Sport]

The boat has 250 hrs, supposedly a fresh water boat, I’m paying the dealership (Certified Yamaha dealer with certified Yamaha techs) to look over the whole boat and trailer and to make sure everything is operational and working correctly (compression test, everything electrical ect.)

The dealership is helping someone sell the boat wich was originally bought there brand new. I paid a fully refundable 500 deposit( so no one else can buy it as we go through the process) based on everything in the boat functioning as it should, approved sea trial, and the trailer being fully road worthy and safe wich is I have in writing.

If they find things that need to be fixed me and the seller have to negotiate I suppose but upon my own visual inspection I foundone cleanout plug completely stuck and they told me they would rebuild both of them without hesitation. So hopefully the inspections and sea trial go well.

I got them to go down to 31k

And that inch of water in the bilge?

 

[Lth101]

And that inch of water in the bilge?

I’m not sure man, the boats been sitting there for 5 weeks supposedly and it was taken out once when it first arrived from what time told. Can rain cause that? I was kind of skeptical about it too, what should I ask and how should I go about that. There was also water pooled on top of the clean out plugs

 

[Lth101]

I’m not sure man, the boats been sitting there for 5 weeks supposedly and it was taken out once when it first arrived from what time told. Can rain cause that? I was kind of skeptical about it too, what should I ask and how should I go about that. There was also water pooled on top of the clean out plugs, I checked all the lockers for water but there was none.

 

[FSH 210 Sport]

I’m not sure man, the boats been sitting there for 5 weeks supposedly and it was taken out once when it first arrived from what time told. Can rain cause that? I was kind of skeptical about it too, what should I ask and how should I go about that. There was also water pooled on top of the clean out plugs

Well, the drain plug must have been for that to happen…. Look in the aft bilge as well with a flash light for corrosion and cleanliness. And make sure the bilge pump works. That year may require the batteries to be turned for the auto part of the bilge pump to work, if yiu don’t have the owners manual you can view it on line and I can direct you there if needed.

 

[Lth101]

Well, the drain plug must have been for that to happen…. Look in the aft bilge as well with a flash light for corrosion and cleanliness. And make sure the bilge pump works. That year may require the batteries to be turned for the auto part of the bilge pump to work, if yiu don’t have the owners manual you can view it on line and I can direct you there if needed.

I tested the bilge pump myself and it did work. The gauges on the screen were telling me the battery charge was low

 

[biffdotorg]

In comparison, my 2011 242LS was in salt the first few years of it's life, and it's nowhere near as rusty as that one. Rust is mostly cosmetic, but I'm way to OCD to let mine get that bad. But salt folks rinse their engine bays more than fresh water folks. It has been fresh for the past 5 years now, and the engine bay shows little signs of it's salt life.

I have a bit of water in the bilge as well, as the pump can only pull so much. I pull my plug when trailering by law always too. But that mildew/staining on the floor drain hose across the engine bay is a tell tail sign that crap has been sloshing around in a wet environment on a regular basis.

I'm the type to spray the engine bay down with simple green and hose it out at least annually. So my floor drain hose is bright white for at least half the summer. But that one shows no signs of care.

All of this being said, it's mostly cosmetic. But it also gives you an idea of how the owner cared for the boat in general. Especially if this is a one owner boat.

Best of luck.

PS: Jeff brought up the timing chain. Although Ronnie had it happen to his 2010, it's not something you should be concerned about more than any other. If this were a 2015, then it would be worth asking the dealer about. But a 2011-2014, it's rare, but happens.

 

[Lth101]

In comparison, my 2011 242LS was in salt the first few years of it's life, and it's nowhere near as rusty as that one. Rust is mostly cosmetic, but I'm way to OCD to let mine get that bad. But salt folks rinse their engine bays more than fresh water folks. It has been fresh for the past 5 years now, and the engine bay shows little signs of it's salt life.

I have a bit of water in the bilge as well, as the pump can only pull so much. I pull my plug when trailering by law always too. But that mildew/staining on the floor drain hose across the engine bay is a tell tail sign that crap has been sloshing around in a wet environment on a regular basis.

I'm the type to spray the engine bay down with simple green and hose it out at least annually. So my floor drain hose is bright white for at least half the summer. But that one shows no signs of care.

All of this being said, it's mostly cosmetic. But it also gives you an idea of how the owner cared for the boat in general. Especially if this is a one owner boat.

Best of luck.

PS: Jeff brought up the timing chain. Although Ronnie had it happen to his 2010, it's not something you should be concerned about more than any other. If this were a 2015, then it would be worth asking the dealer about. But a 2011-2014, it's rare, but happens.

Yeah supposedly it was primarily used in “fresh water” but when I popped the engine hatch I was surprised how dirty it was considering every single seat cushion shows 0 signs of sun burn and not one tear. And I’ve also looked at other boats in my area that were no where near in as good condition wise when it comes to the seats and gel coats but have flawless looking engine bays lol it really threw me off. Is there anything else I should do? I feel like I’m in the right paying the dealership to overlook everything and do the compression tests and sea trials and such but I’ve never owned or bought a boat before. Should I hire a surveyor to look at the hull and go out for a ride? (The dealer said that the surveyor can not drive the boat but can come for the ride) so I don’t even know if it’s worth hiring one just to examine the hull. The boats at a certified Yamaha dealer right off a pier so I would assume their technicians are very knowledgeable about Jett boats. I don’t care about coughing up the extra cash I just don’t want to get screwed with a lemon

 

[biffdotorg]

A "surveyor" of the hull seems like a waste. Visual inspection by anyone should be all it takes. Unless someone did some botched up repairs. But again, a bad repair would be obvious. Just be sure you cannot see any fiberglass. Exposed fiberglass will rot, and any boat dealer worth their weight would not sell you a boat with hull damage.

A test ride should be given to anyone that has already cut a deal as a final piece before taking delivery. This is common with all boat dealers. It's not where you figure out if it's right for you, it's where you determine that it is seaworthy and runs as it should. In our region, boats are not sold without it. Especially new boats. Dealers around here always do final delivery at the boat landing and do an overview of features and instructions on every delivery.

 

[Lth101]

A "surveyor" of the hull seems like a waste. Visual inspection by anyone should be all it takes. Unless someone did some botched up repairs. But again, a bad repair would be obvious. Just be sure you cannot see any fiberglass. Exposed fiberglass will rot, and any boat dealer worth their weight would not sell you a boat with hull damage.

A test ride should be given to anyone that has already cut a deal as a final piece before taking delivery. This is common with all boat dealers. It's not where you figure out if it's right for you, it's where you determine that it is seaworthy and runs as it should. In our region, boats are not sold without it. Especially new boats. Dealers around here always do final delivery at the boat landing and do an overview of features and instructions on every delivery.

Yes I agree when I left a deposit I have in writing that all the terms are based on The Sea Trial, A fully functioning boat based on their inspection and a road worthy trailer. If I’m not happy with anything my 500 bucks gets refunded and I’m basically out another 350 because I’m having the Yamaha dealership overlook the entire boat. Should I do the sea trial before I even pay them to look at everything? Does it matter? I looked the at the whole outside and under the boat as best as I could and all I saw was one scratch that was about an inch long the very corner of it went through the gel coat. Smaller than my pinky nail