Trailer brakes locking up

[OurCrew]

Twice it happen that the trailer brakes locked up while trying to back it.
New Shoreline trailer
what is causing this and how do you prevent it?

 

[Can0n11]

Are you using a the lockout key or is your pigtail wired for the reverse signal solenoid?

 

[Ronnie]

Twice it happen that the trailer brakes locked up while trying to back it.
New Shoreline trailer
what is causing this and how do you prevent it?

If you have a flat 5 pin connector on the trailer the last exposed pin is for the reverse lead from the tow vehicle. Assuming all the wiring is correct and working properly when you put the tow vehicle in reverse it powers the fifth line and electronically disables the reverse solenoid in the trailers tongue which will allow you to reverse, even up a hill/driveway without the trailer brakes activating. If this doesn’t work you can use a “D” key (or tape a nickel in the back of the slot) to mechanically block the surge mechanism from being pushed into the tongue and engaging the brakes.

 

[Beachbummer]

If you don't have the physical lock out, and need to buy one, this one is the best I've found

Amazon.com : Lenink Surge Brake Lockout Key, Magnetic Lock Out Key Compatible with UFP Surge Brake Boat Trailer : Sports & Outdoors

Amazon.com : Lenink Surge Brake Lockout Key, Magnetic Lock Out Key Compatible with UFP Surge Brake Boat Trailer : Sports & Outdoors

www.amazon.com

 

[Ronnie]

If you don't have the physical lock out, and need to buy one, this one is the best I've found

Amazon.com : Lenink Surge Brake Lockout Key, Magnetic Lock Out Key Compatible with UFP Surge Brake Boat Trailer : Sports & Outdoors

Amazon.com : Lenink Surge Brake Lockout Key, Magnetic Lock Out Key Compatible with UFP Surge Brake Boat Trailer : Sports & Outdoors

www.amazon.com

That’s the one I use and have permanently mounted to my boat trailer to replace the oem key which is not magnetic so falls out whenever pressure is released off its sides (I.e., when the tow vehicle moves forward). This is a problem when you have to shift from forward to reverse several times to complete your trailering work. Another alternative is to tape the d key or nickel in place but you always have to have fresh tape available.

if your reverse solenoid is wired and working properlyyou shouldn’t need to use a d key but if you don’t have a choice just don’t forget to put “remove d key” on your pre trailering check list or you will be totally reliant on the tow vehicles brake to stop you.

 

[kgower]

When we picked our boat up in MI last May, the dealer left the key shrink wrapped. When I got back to VA I took the shrink wrap off and naturally the key fell out, so I zip tied it. Being a first-time buyer, never having owned a trailer with surge brakes I've left the zip tie in place all year.

This post has cleared a few things. Guess I'll be stopping better with the trailer breaks released.

 

[FSH 210 Sport]

Twice it happen that the trailer brakes locked up while trying to back it.
New Shoreline trailer
what is causing this and how do you prevent it?

As you back up you are pushing on the tongue of the trailer which actuates the trailer surge brakes.

This is prevented two ways. If you have a seven pin trailer light plug, when you select reverse the back up light wire activates a solenoid in the trailers braking system allowing the pressurized brake fluid to return to the reservoir So no trailer brakes are applied. The second is by using the lock out key that should be hanging from the hitch. All of this info can be found in the trailers owners manual.

 

[OurCrew]

Thank you all for the wonderful answers
Answered Three questions that I had
1)Why was the trailer locking up the brakes?
2)What can you do to prevent this from happening?
and one I hadn’t posted in this thread but was intend to ask in another post
3)What is that funny key hanging on the trailer?

 

[dapowerelectric]

For same trailer and my actuator brakes locked even with the pin when I back up my brakes are locked, I unlock them by hammering on the brake system, but as soon as I back up with or without lock pin inserted breakers lock again, they stay lock even to foward. At this point I just want to deactivate the brakes for good. Anyone has any clue on how to deactivate the brakes from my shore lander?

 

[zipper]

For same trailer and my actuator brakes locked even with the pin when I back up my brakes are locked, I unlock them by hammering on the brake system, but as soon as I back up with or without lock pin inserted breakers lock again, they stay lock even to foward. At this point I just want to deactivate the brakes for good. Anyone has any clue on how to deactivate the brakes from my shore lander?

What pin are you talking about? There is a pin that slides in the slot for the surge actuator. You place the lockout key, D shaped, in the slot to keep the pin, tongue from sliding while in reverse. The magnetic one work better than non magnetic as they will not fall out.

https://www.amazon.com/LOCKOUT-MAGNETIC-CLINK-BRAKES-TRAILER/dp/B08W9PHZM4

Your key may look like this one, hanging from a thin wire on the side of the tongue. D shaped to fit in the slot.



A video on how to use it.

 

[dapowerelectric]

What pin are you talking about? There is a pin that slides in the slot for the surge actuator. You place the lockout key, D shaped, in the slot to keep the pin, tongue from sliding while in reverse. The magnetic one work better than non magnetic as they will not fall out.

https://www.amazon.com/LOCKOUT-MAGNETIC-CLINK-BRAKES-TRAILER/dp/B08W9PHZM4

Your key may look like this one, hanging from a thin wire on the side of the tongue. D shaped to fit in the slot.

View attachment 194594

A video on how to use it.

That’s is what I refer as “pin”. So is not a key issue but instead something stuck on my breaking system. Most likely due to the salt, I believe is I. The brakes itself…

 

[crazy4life]

What pin are you talking about? There is a pin that slides in the slot for the surge actuator. You place the lockout key, D shaped, in the slot to keep the pin, tongue from sliding while in reverse. The magnetic one work better than non magnetic as they will not fall out.

https://www.amazon.com/LOCKOUT-MAGNETIC-CLINK-BRAKES-TRAILER/dp/B08W9PHZM4

Your key may look like this one, hanging from a thin wire on the side of the tongue. D shaped to fit in the slot.

View attachment 194594

A video on how to use it.

I have the magnetic one. Works and you don’t have to worry about losing it.

 

[zipper]

That’s is what I refer as “pin”. So is not a key issue but instead something stuck on my breaking system. Most likely due to the salt, I believe is I. The brakes itself…

Well then if the actuator pin is forward in the slot and brakes are still engaged then you have at least one stuck caliper. I replaced one on my trailer.

 

[dapowerelectric]

Well then if the actuator pin is forward in the slot and brakes are still engaged then you have at least one stuck caliper. I replaced one on my trailer.

This sounds about right as is only the port side.
will look into it! Mahalo!!

 

[drewkaree]

This sounds about right as is only the port side.
will look into it! Mahalo!!

Find your owner's manual, there should be some info in there about what to cross reference when looking for parts. My trailer, for instance, says I should be looking for replacement parts for an '06 or '07 Kia something or other. Without that info, I doubt you're going to find a parts store employee that has any clue on how to figure out what to get for you, and they'll need to know what size engine is in that Shorelander before they can find you the correct wiper blades