Trailer issues.

[Liveto99]

2018 21 FHS came with Shorelander trailer. First trip more than a few miles.
The three light bar fell off was hanging, I said ok used a few zip ties and put back to keep going. The license plate fell off, got that and put a few zip ties to hold it on. License plate bracket fell off with the plate and bracket that holds the boat down. Walk off highway to Home Depot, cordless drill and self tappers to hold that on. New ratchet strap to replace boat hold down strap. Drill hole on I beam to put hook to. I was waiting to lose a axel or something. I stopped and Checked it a lot. 350 miles. Anyone else having trouble with there trailer? It was like the back was put on with no thred lock or lock nuts. Just pissed it was 45k and I have to spend a day going over the whole thing. And I did grease the bearings there was no trace of grease on them.

 

[Grover70]

Same thing with the rear lights on my Shorelander. I epoxied them on and no problem so far. Didn't happen with my plates though. Let me give you my contact there who answered my questions: Doug Clough DClough@midwestindustries.com

 

[Liveto99]

Thank you

 

[fatboyroy]

Mine fell off too I had to pull one of the nut from the port side light so I can’t install this back to get home. I have since replace all with locking nut.

 

[Uman]

Yea, Shorelander trailers are pure JUNK; everything from the hitch coupler to the tail lights.

 

[Liveto99]

Once I did the lights the rest has been good.
I grease it a lot.
8k miles on it

 

[Uman]

Here are my new aluminum shorelandr trailer problems:
Bow roller is very hard with no roller bushings and scratches boat bow
Rear lights are unsealed incandescent type....really they could not use LED.
Rear light bar is incandescent and not sealed
No evidence of grease in wheel buddy bearings
All rear light wire connectors not sealed and corroded after one month.

If you dunk your boat in salt water, better replace the rear lights and seal the inline connectors...they will not last long.

 

[Liveto99]

Here are my new aluminum shorelandr trailer problems:
Bow roller is very hard with no roller bushings and scratches boat bow
Rear lights are unsealed incandescent type....really they could not use LED.
Rear light bar is incandescent and not sealed
No evidence of grease in wheel buddy bearings
All rear light wire connectors not sealed and corroded after one month.

If you dunk your boat in salt water, better replace the rear lights and seal the inline connectors...they will not last long.

correct, and grease the wheels.
it is standard grade, upgrade it with led lights, bow roller and good grease.

 

[WV Hillbilly]

Here are my new aluminum shorelandr trailer problems:
Bow roller is very hard with no roller bushings and scratches boat bow
Rear lights are unsealed incandescent type....really they could not use LED.
Rear light bar is incandescent and not sealed
No evidence of grease in wheel buddy bearings
All rear light wire connectors not sealed and corroded after one month.

If you dunk your boat in salt water, better replace the rear lights and seal the inline connectors...they will not last long.

Just updated all of mine with LED and added backup lights. Also added 6 more 3/4” LED marker lights, it had two, one of which was covered by the spare tire.

 

[fatboyroy]

Just updated all of mine with LED and added backup lights. Also added 6 more 3/4” LED marker lights, it had two, one of which was covered by the spare tire.

View attachment 148342

Nice, which LED did you install, can you share link?

 

[WV Hillbilly]

Nice, which LED did you install, can you share link?

Backup lights. https://www.amazon.com/Nilight-18022C-B-Waterproof-Off-Road-Warranty/dp/B081DTRC46?pd_rd_w=r4wmM&pf_rd_p=6417b25a-ecb5-4bfd-95ec-9997de9c076d&pf_rd_r=85KT3B4026CJPY77ZDJ4&pd_rd_r=aa808bc7-3789-4f8c-8d1f-9024b4441425&pd_rd_wg=kGy6r&pd_rd_i=B081DTRC46&psc=1&ref_=pd_bap_m_rp_20_sc
Marker lights https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08LV9S5Z4?ref=pd_basp_dp_primary

Stop turn tail https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08H3BSV8H?ref=pd_basp_dp_primary

Rear 3 light bar https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07CZ62FNY?ref=pd_basp_dp_primary

License plate holder https://www.amazon.com/dp/B079T9X1TC?ref=pd_basp_dp_primary

Yes, all from Amazon because I am lazy...

 

[WV Hillbilly]

Nice, which LED did you install, can you share link?

Everything was spliced with heat shrink butt connectors filled with dielectric grease. I am mostly in fresh water but will occasionally be in salt water. I got the butt connectors (you guessed it) from Amazon https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07HCPFPD2?ref=pd_basp_dp_primary

 

[fatboyroy]

Backup lights. https://www.amazon.com/Nilight-18022C-B-Waterproof-Off-Road-Warranty/dp/B081DTRC46?pd_rd_w=r4wmM&pf_rd_p=6417b25a-ecb5-4bfd-95ec-9997de9c076d&pf_rd_r=85KT3B4026CJPY77ZDJ4&pd_rd_r=aa808bc7-3789-4f8c-8d1f-9024b4441425&pd_rd_wg=kGy6r&pd_rd_i=B081DTRC46&psc=1&ref_=pd_bap_m_rp_20_sc
Marker lights https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08LV9S5Z4?ref=pd_basp_dp_primary

Stop turn tail https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08H3BSV8H?ref=pd_basp_dp_primary

Rear 3 light bar https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07CZ62FNY?ref=pd_basp_dp_primary

License plate holder https://www.amazon.com/dp/B079T9X1TC?ref=pd_basp_dp_primary

Yes, all from Amazon because I am lazy...

Thank you, will be my next project! Amazon all the way, just click and wait while having a beer ha!

 

[drewkaree]

Backup lights. https://www.amazon.com/Nilight-18022C-B-Waterproof-Off-Road-Warranty/dp/B081DTRC46?pd_rd_w=r4wmM&pf_rd_p=6417b25a-ecb5-4bfd-95ec-9997de9c076d&pf_rd_r=85KT3B4026CJPY77ZDJ4&pd_rd_r=aa808bc7-3789-4f8c-8d1f-9024b4441425&pd_rd_wg=kGy6r&pd_rd_i=B081DTRC46&psc=1&ref_=pd_bap_m_rp_20_sc
Marker lights https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08LV9S5Z4?ref=pd_basp_dp_primary

Stop turn tail https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08H3BSV8H?ref=pd_basp_dp_primary

Rear 3 light bar https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07CZ62FNY?ref=pd_basp_dp_primary

License plate holder https://www.amazon.com/dp/B079T9X1TC?ref=pd_basp_dp_primary

Yes, all from Amazon because I am lazy...

Did you have to run wire for the backup lights, or did you splice in somewhere? I wasn't aware that the trailer had reverse lights or wiring, since they're all red.

 

[WV Hillbilly]

Did you have to run wire for the backup lights, or did you splice in somewhere? I wasn't aware that the trailer had reverse lights or wiring, since they're all red.

I took 40’ of red and 40’ of black 14 gauge wire (spools I already had from other trailer and side by side light additions), twisted them to the winch tower, walked down the driveway, put one end of each in a cordless drill and braided them together under tension. (40 feet gave me plenty of extra even after braiding them fairly tight)

My Shorelandr trailer had plenty of extra cable in the tongue for a place to splice. Mine has a 7 pin plug with only 5 pins being used. I spliced the hot side to the hot side of the backup light lead that turns the brakes off when backing up. The ground went to the harness ground.

While I had the taillights off I fished the wire all the way down both sides from the front to the back and then used a fairly stiff solid copper wire (#10) to fish it through to the holes already drilled in the crossmember. The factory holes are perfect but you will need a couple of rubber grommets to keep the wires from chafing.

For the base mounts, I used SS bolts, nuts, and washers I picked up at Home Depot.

Example of wire:

 

[drewkaree]

I took 40’ of red and 40’ of black 14 gauge wire (spools I already had from other trailer and side by side light additions), twisted them to the winch tower, walked down the driveway, put one end of each in a cordless drill and braided them together under tension. (40 feet gave me plenty of extra even after braiding them fairly tight)

My Shorelandr trailer had plenty of extra cable in the tongue for a place to splice. Mine has a 7 pin plug with only 5 pins being used. I spliced the hot side to the hot side of the backup light lead that turns the brakes off when backing up. The ground went to the harness ground.

While I had the taillights off I fished the wire all the way down both sides from the front to the back and then used a fairly stiff solid copper wire (#10) to fish it through to the holes already drilled in the crossmember. The factory holes are perfect but you will need a couple of rubber grommets to keep the wires from chafing.

For the base mounts, I used SS bolts, nuts, and washers I picked up at Home Depot.

Example of wire:
View attachment 148371

View attachment 148377

That's some great info! I've wanted lights for backing the boat into my driveway, since there's 2' ditches on either side of the drive, as well as sign posts. This might move to the top of the list for the next thing to do, simply for the safer lighting. I've only got to trailer my boat maybe 50 yards to launch it, but putting it back in the yard could easily end up with me taking out a corner of the house if I'm not careful! With this addition, I wouldn't have to bug the wife for assistance every time I'm backing up.

 

[WV Hillbilly]

That's some great info! I've wanted lights for backing the boat into my driveway, since there's 2' ditches on either side of the drive, as well as sign posts. This might move to the top of the list for the next thing to do, simply for the safer lighting. I've only got to trailer my boat maybe 50 yards to launch it, but putting it back in the yard could easily end up with me taking out a corner of the house if I'm not careful! With this addition, I wouldn't have to bug the wife for assistance every time I'm backing up.

As I get older I find my night vision ain’t what it used to be. I have a 14 foot open tandem toy trailer that I use mostly for hunting. Before daylight and after dark on two tracks or trying to turn around on a narrow road is a PIA with only the red glow from the brake lights. I installed these on that trailer and have loved them over the past several years. Now all my trailers and SxS have them. Very cheap solution for bad night vision (and ultra bright).

 

[four_the_kids]

I'm surprised to read all the issues a good number of you are experiencing with your trailers. We've had ours since new and have had no concerns to share. Granted, we only boat in fresh water, still have the original led lights where none of the diodes are out, original wheel bearings (I remove, clean and repack with grease and reinstall, carry two complete spares for just in case), but then we probably don't put more than 1500 miles a year on them. Trailer ratchet straps function as they should, I honestly can't name a single issue the entire time. Wait a minute, had to replace the bow strap, once, and upgraded to the Stoltz bow stop.
The only difference I see is that most seem to happen to the galvanized trailers where we have a painted trailer. Silly, yes, but ? ? ? ?
IDK?

 

[drewkaree]

I'm surprised to read all the issues a good number of you are experiencing with your trailers. We've had ours since new and have had no concerns to share. Granted, we only boat in fresh water, still have the original led lights where none of the diodes are out, original wheel bearings (I remove, clean and repack with grease and reinstall, carry two complete spares for just in case), but then we probably don't put more than 1500 miles a year on them. Trailer ratchet straps function as they should, I honestly can't name a single issue the entire time.

Many of the issue are related to the non-led lights and/or salt water boaters. I'd go so far as to say those two issues cover 80-85% of those experiencing problems.

 

[WV Hillbilly]

I'm surprised to read all the issues a good number of you are experiencing with your trailers. We've had ours since new and have had no concerns to share. Granted, we only boat in fresh water, still have the original led lights where none of the diodes are out, original wheel bearings (I remove, clean and repack with grease and reinstall, carry two complete spares for just in case), but then we probably don't put more than 1500 miles a year on them. Trailer ratchet straps function as they should, I honestly can't name a single issue the entire time. Wait a minute, had to replace the bow strap, once, and upgraded to the Stoltz bow stop.
The only difference I see is that most seem to happen to the galvanized trailers where we have a painted trailer. Silly, yes, but ? ? ? ?
IDK?

I didn’t experience any problems. I just think anything other than LED lights are a waste of time and effort. Having only two side marker lights on a 19 foot boat trailer is IMHO not enough. I do think with a 40k boat, Yamaha could afford to put LEDs on the trailers as standard equipment. As for the backup lights, well, I haven’t seen those as an option on anything but custom trailers.

I like the trailer that came with the boat. It’s beefy, looks well constructed with good welds, has rubber grommets every place that they should and should last many many years. I just upgraded the lights so they too will last many many years and I’m not out on the road and have a failure.