- Messages
- 13,329
- Reaction score
- 13,426
- Points
- 857
- Location
- Royal, AR
- Boat Make
- Yamaha
- Year
- 2007
- Boat Model
- SX
- Boat Length
- 23
Years ago I grew tired of using a 5 pin to 7 pin adapter every time I hooked the trailer up so I cut the 5 pin connector off and installed a 7 pin connector in its place. Since then I have had the ground wire pull loose from the trailer twice.
Last week I decided to fix this issue permanently. I ordered a Bargman / DrawTite 54006-043 six foot coiled trailer connector. The cable has a long coiled section like an old corded phone which allows the cable to stretch up to 6' without straining the connections.
This is the new cable in use. (Click the thumbnail to enlarge).
I soldered and shrink tubed the wires. The color code was different from what was used for the original 5 pin connection. After some experimentation I arrived at
Connector Yellow -> Trailer Blue (backup light, disable brakes)
Connector Green -> Trailer Brown and Grey (both wires, tail and marker lights)
Connector Red -> Trailer Yellow (left turn / brake)
Connector Brown -> Trailer Green (right turn / brake)
Connector Brown -> Trailer Ground
The black and blue wires from the connector need to be capped off. I used shrink tubing to do so.
I spaced out the splices at varying lengths so that they would not be overlapping.
I installed (crimped and soldered) a ring connector on the connectors ground wire, drilled a 1/8" pilot hole then used a self tapping screw to secure the ground. I applied dielectric grease to the threads of the screw and both sides of the ring connector.
The factory trailer wiring harness was smaller than 1/2", perhaps 3/8". I used a section of 1/2" split loom to overlap the 3/8" factory loom and secure it to the connector's coiled lead. 5/8" split loom would have been better for for the coiled lead. I secured both ends of the split loom with electrical tape.
Then I secured the connector's coiled lead to the trailer with two large wire ties that are typically used by HVAC installers. The third wire tie has secured the brake lockout key to my trailer for several years.
I purchased the coiled 7 pin connector for $34 via Amazon. Unfortunately the price has gone up in the last few days. I had the soldering iron, solder, shrink tubing, split loom and wire ties already. My total cost was less than $35 and the upgrade took less than an hour. It would probably be less than 30 minutes to repeat since I now know the color coding.
For comparison this is the old connector that I removed which has been opened to take a peak at which wires went where.
Last week I decided to fix this issue permanently. I ordered a Bargman / DrawTite 54006-043 six foot coiled trailer connector. The cable has a long coiled section like an old corded phone which allows the cable to stretch up to 6' without straining the connections.
This is the new cable in use. (Click the thumbnail to enlarge).
I soldered and shrink tubed the wires. The color code was different from what was used for the original 5 pin connection. After some experimentation I arrived at
Connector Yellow -> Trailer Blue (backup light, disable brakes)
Connector Green -> Trailer Brown and Grey (both wires, tail and marker lights)
Connector Red -> Trailer Yellow (left turn / brake)
Connector Brown -> Trailer Green (right turn / brake)
Connector Brown -> Trailer Ground
The black and blue wires from the connector need to be capped off. I used shrink tubing to do so.
I spaced out the splices at varying lengths so that they would not be overlapping.
I installed (crimped and soldered) a ring connector on the connectors ground wire, drilled a 1/8" pilot hole then used a self tapping screw to secure the ground. I applied dielectric grease to the threads of the screw and both sides of the ring connector.
The factory trailer wiring harness was smaller than 1/2", perhaps 3/8". I used a section of 1/2" split loom to overlap the 3/8" factory loom and secure it to the connector's coiled lead. 5/8" split loom would have been better for for the coiled lead. I secured both ends of the split loom with electrical tape.
Then I secured the connector's coiled lead to the trailer with two large wire ties that are typically used by HVAC installers. The third wire tie has secured the brake lockout key to my trailer for several years.
I purchased the coiled 7 pin connector for $34 via Amazon. Unfortunately the price has gone up in the last few days. I had the soldering iron, solder, shrink tubing, split loom and wire ties already. My total cost was less than $35 and the upgrade took less than an hour. It would probably be less than 30 minutes to repeat since I now know the color coding.
For comparison this is the old connector that I removed which has been opened to take a peak at which wires went where.
