You can use quick connects, but in the marine environment, you are going to have problems, it is just a matter of time. If you can solder, you can save all the hassle down the road. Just solder, heat shrink, and be done with it. Basically, no matter what kind of setup you do for an RGB lighting, your going to run a lead all the way around the boat. If it is extensive with lighting, then run two, one in each direction from your helm compartment. Then, just tap onto it for each separate leg that goes to a light. If you have 2 or 3 lights running from a particular place, just join them all to the main trunk together. Just keep all the reds on reds, blues on blue, greens on green, and white is the control wire. You can easily do the entire boat for less than $100 if you do it yourself. If you pay one of the LED providers, you will have over $100 in connectors alone...and get to fix the again later. The real bummer, is when they quit, you won't know which of the 35 connectors failed, without serious troubleshooting. This is easy guys, but taking an easy way out up front may create some issues for you in the future. You have MUCH more to consider in a boat than in a car or motorcycle, and these light connectors were designed for interior applications more than even a vehicle. I get that it is a bigger project to use solder joints, but it is permanent, those connecters aren't. You have moisture and vibration. I just had a trailer light issue on my utility trailer today, a fairly new trailer. The pigtail that hooked to my 4 pin connector on the truck had a fault in it. The 4 pin connector on the end of the pigtail was "scotch locks" for all 4 connections in the pigtail! I stopped at U-haul to get them to troubleshoot because I wasn't at home. The tech told me that the most problematic trailer wiring issue they faced was temporary hookups like that. I bought a new pigtail connector with a wiring lead. Took it home and cut it off with about 4" of wire out of it. I cut the existing trailer connector that contained scotch locks off and soldered and heat shrinked the wiring and contained it back inside the wire loom. That will never give me another issue. Here are a few pics of the Nauti Dawg, I have yet to add them to the Blue Yonder, but when I do, I will add them in the cupholders, not outside where they blind me. And I will not be adding speaker rings. For the same reason, just too bright. LED's make great indirect lights, but the reason they are using them for highlights and eyebrows is that they are F'ing bright! Too bright IMO, to be viewed directly. Anyway, ain't it great we all have the ability to choose what we want and no one has the right to tell us otherwise. So that said, I offer my opinion, but you can certainly do it however you want. On to the pics!
I like Wet Sounds products and quality.
