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Yes, a ribbon delete post...but for the install, not the worthiness.

rsg1963

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I searched but can't find a post about what I experienced when trying to remove the ribbons on my boat last weekend. All the posts I find are about whether or not it's worth it.
Basically has anyone installed these and noticed how incredibly hard the Allen-head bolts are to get out? I am referring to the bolts behind the throttle body, where the ribbon resides. Also, and this was even MORE surprising: How crazy tight those ribbons are in the rubber housing/ring. Man, I was digging that thing out like an Alabama tick! Ended up gouging the ribbon (did not care it's being deleted anyway) and a little of the rubber ring as well. I could not help but wonder if I am completely going about this wrong. Only replaced on so far (the easier one, port-side)
 

Ronnie

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I disnt think it was that difficult to install, just be sure to use the short end of the Allen wrench. Also be careful with the rubber ring, if it is torn and has material hanging off of it cut it off before you install the air intake ring/mod, you don't want any of the ring to go into the intake. Someone here already ruined one of his engines by installing the rubber ring without the flame arrestor or intake mod.
 

rsg1963

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I disnt think it was that difficult to install, just be sure to use the short end of the Allen wrench. Also be careful with the rubber ring, if it is torn and has material hanging off of it cut it off before you install the air intake ring/mod, you don't want any of the ring to go into the intake. Someone here already ruined one of his engines by installing the rubber ring without the flame arrestor or intake mod.
Thanks Ronnie, I will definitely make sure the rubber is intact.
And regarding the allen wrench, I weigh 245 pounds and can turn a wrench pretty well but these bolts were 60+ pounds of torque before they broke loose and then never were easy to remove. Unlike most bolts that get easier turn after turn, there resisted all the way to the end.
 

swatski

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@rsg1963 Still worth it!
But, those bolts have locktite on them...




I know it is a little too late...
Don't loose this gasket:



There is white locktite stuff on the threads. Also - use the wood screw trick if the ribbon is stuck:


And while on it, delete the "snorkels" in the filter boxes as well.


-
 

rsg1963

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@swatski that's awesome, THANK YOU!
-The Snorkle delete (did this on my Stand-up for the same reason) -The wood screw idea, -the gasket (i've only done one side so far). But our intake setups look different.
I had to take the next set of bolts (in my case allen heads) off to get to the ribbon. Just a PITA. In fact I am now on my way to Harbor Freight to buy socket-allen head set for this specific purpose due to the hassle.

Good stuff, thanks again!
 

dan144k

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My bolts and ribbon came apart no problem. Was able to pull the ribbon out with a couple pulls on the rubber around it.

Also did snorkel delete, no screws. Just A rubber plug. Was the hardest thing to do. Had to pull way harder that I thought and push on the dimple with a screw driver while yanking. Maybe some wd40 would have slow it out easier.

Also noticed the worx ring had a taper. One edge was 1/16" thicker. Installed with narrow edge/ larger opening, on the motor side. Tried both ways and this way fit the bored and gasket the best. I think.
 

Nick Hughes

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Did anyone have an issue with the bottom inside bolt? I can't get any socket I have to fit in that spot, there is no outside clearance. I couldn't even get the open end of a box wrench in there.
 

rsg1963

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Did anyone have an issue with the bottom inside bolt? I can't get any socket I have to fit in that spot, there is no outside clearance. I couldn't even get the open end of a box wrench in there.
Had the exact same problem Nick. I took one of my 3/8' drive sockets and ground it down on the outside. Used an extension while grinding to keep my fingers clear. No problem after that. Had to do a similar trick for my CJ7's headers years ago, where an open end wrench would not normally fit.
 

Nick Hughes

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We must be missing something, we shouldn't have to grind down tools on this. Maybe there is a thin walled socket set I can buy.
 

rsg1963

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We must be missing something, we shouldn't have to grind down tools on this. Maybe there is a thin walled socket set I can buy.
It better be very thin. :) I have so many sockets I did not mind and honestly did not feel like taking even more time on it. Turns out I needed to go to get specialized allen head sockets anyway for the next layer I had to remove. Trying to do it with a standard 'L' allen wrench was painfully slow and woefully difficult.
 

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I just did this on my 2015. I did not do the snorkel delete. I will this weekend. I had 6 people in the boat and didn't notice any difference after delete RPM wise. Will see what happens when I go out again. It was very simple my son did it in about 15 min for both engines. We used power wrenches and was really quick.
 

rsg1963

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I just did this on my 2015. I did not do the snorkel delete. I will this weekend. I had 6 people in the boat and didn't notice any difference after delete RPM wise. Will see what happens when I go out again. It was very simple my son did it in about 15 min for both engines. We used power wrenches and was really quick.
If that was your experience (which is great) then there are a lot of tolerance and assembly differences in these boats from year to year. I've seen people with cap bolts for all 8 positions, 4 cap bolts and 4 allen head bolts, cap bolts without enough clearance to fit a socket on, and some where there is no issue whatsoever.
 

swatski

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If that was your experience (which is great) then there are a lot of tolerance and assembly differences in these boats from year to year. I've seen people with cap bolts for all 8 positions, 4 cap bolts and 4 allen head bolts, cap bolts without enough clearance to fit a socket on, and some where there is no issue whatsoever.
I think the 2015s have a different intake manifold than 2016s, which are (I think) back to pre-2015 style. There have been some crazy hard to track back and forth changes.

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greg

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The 2015 and 2016 17 all have same engines. I checked they have same throttle body back to 2012 and i quit looking, so probably all 1.8's are the same parts. Weird they would have different blots on same throttle bodies.
 

swatski

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The 2015 and 2016 17 all have same engines. I checked they have same throttle body back to 2012 and i quit looking, so probably all 1.8's are the same parts. Weird they would have different blots on same throttle bodies.
The engines are the same, but the intakes are NOT. They have gone back and forth, even within the same MY. You have to check EVERY model. Some are California (CARB) models, some are not.
Large is 6D3, small is 6DH I think. For example:
2016
http://www.powersedge.com/oemparts/a/yam/56263fb387a86602c84a2a87/intake-1
2015
http://www.powersedge.com/oemparts/a/yam/54453e6af870020ad8f5dbe0/intake-1

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greg

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I checked the throttle body part numbers all the same 12 on I think
 

swatski

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I checked the throttle body part numbers all the same 12 on I think
This is the 2016 from the link I posted above:
upload_2017-5-18_20-37-52.png

This is the 2015 from the second link:
upload_2017-5-18_20-38-49.png

Please note parts 12, 16 (2016) vs 10, 14 (2015).

Let me know if you have any questions.

--
 

greg

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I was looking at the throttle bodies. All the same. Geez the spacers and what they call them are different on certain years with same throttle bodies.
 

Merlion

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Guys, basic question (rookie here) are there two ribbons to delete? (242x) ...meaning one for each engine? Or is it one that connects to both engines.
I’m purchasing the riva intake manifold upgrade ring, and not sure if I need to buy one or two.

Also, is this the right ring that I need for a 2019 242? D10D2C4D-60BD-48C1-8F1F-C1C189CCAB09.jpeg
 

Ronnie

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You’ll need two (2), one (1) for each engine.


Edit: here is a link to my install video from a few years back.

 
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