2019+ Yamaha 195 impeller replacement

[Hoyt]

So as many of you already know I destroyed my stock yamaha 195s impeller and wear ring at the end of the year last season. I beached my boat in a Rocky/shelly beach. Killed my sound system batteries and started the boat. An hour later I came to shut it off, and heard the shells going through impeller. Bad call I know. So I'm starting this thread because of the general lack of knowledge I found on internet when I had this problem. So hopefully this helps someone else out in the future.....
So I was experiencing bad cavitation from a stop to getting on plane. Stock the boat took a couple seconds to get on plane. After problems... A minute or longer. I also had a "pinging" sound coming from the impeller area under load. The more people on board the worse it was. Top speed was dramatically decreased as well from stock 48-50 to now 35 with 2 people.
So I removed my impeller and jet pump from the boat(process described in pics after my story). Took it to my local PWC shop guru to fix. He replaced the wear ring with stock yamaha version, and had my impeller resurfaced at a local place (he was unable to order new at the time). So first test.... 2 people on board.... Cavitation was improved but still not stock, and we could hit 41mph. Fast forward to first family outing of the year..... 6 people on board (normal crew) and the boat would not get on plane. It would not go over 10mph. Clean out plug not set right? Nope.... Impeller for sure.......
So here starts the process of researching and rebuilding yet again......
So I started by finding the OEM Yamaha impeller part number for my 195s (same as sx195, and AR195 BTW) that number is (6GN-R1321-10-00). Good luck finding one BTW. So I then cross referenced it to Solas impeller, and found part number YV-CD 13/18 is the correct impeller for my not modified SVHO yamaha engine. Now this is a different pitch then stock. Stock is 13/20. Yamaha pitched it to have a little cavitation at start to add more top end speed. The 13/18 Solas is too eliminate cavitation, and by doing so you loose a couple mph on the top end. I'm perfectly fine with that....
So let's get to the removal....
This is what you see on back of your boat. I have Cobra jet fins installed here....
We are going after these 8 large bolts. They are 14mm socket....

First we pull off shifter rod from top of bucket. 10mm socket. One on each side. Pro tip.... Put bolts back in rod once removed so you know where they go. Rod just lifts up once bolts are removed

Like this. Just rest it on top.

Then we need to remove the steering rod. This is a 11mm socket, and wrench. Side note... If you have aftermarket fins you'll need to remove this side bolts of the fins to get steering rod bolt out. Again put all bolts back in to not lose them...

Fins are 14mm socket as well

Once the steering rod bolt is out be sure to not lose these two nylon washers in the hole. One on top and one on bottom...

Now we're ready to pull the pump. Take the outside 4 bolts out first. I did inside and it won't come out as whole. Must remove front pump section first. These are 14mm socket

This is your Pry point to unseal the 5200 on front pump to rear

One or both of these tools make separation of the pump super simple

Boom. Comes right apart

Once front pump is off your looking at this. Remove the 4 14mm socket bolts, and 1 10mm bolt (already done in this pic)

Removing the anode makes it way easier to access port side bolts. 10mm socket

There's your 2 14mm and one 10mm bolts that need to come out next. Pay attention to your intake grate. When you have pump off it's a good idea to open this, and clean and inspect. 100% of your engines cooling water comes through here

Extensions are key here to get these

Pry bar here again. Behind back pump and against transome. Pops right loose

From that point just grab the pump and pull it out. It'll come right out. Take it to your bench. Now the fun begins.... These are the needed tools to replace the stock impeller with a Solas upgrade it's their shaft holder....

Spline holder slides onto splines at end of shaft, and allow you to cinch it down on a vice. Definitely gonna need the vice. Without it is gonna be Hell

Here's your impeller, and this is what we are after. They are reverse threaded. So it comes off clockwise, and it's a real bitch. However, I got a trick for ya..... We used a 1 1/16" wrench for this (26 or 27mm would be better, but we didn't have it). A long 4'pipe to slide over the wrench for leverage would work amazing. We used a 5#sledge hammer instead and beat the wrench. Couple hits and boom she broke free no problem....

Here we are impeller is off. Once loose just twist it by hand off the threads. Then slide it off the spine end of shaft. Obviously it needs to come off vice first

Side by side of stock impeller (right) vs Solas impeller (right). Little shorter, and tighter pitch

Here you can see the Solas impeller installation tool. Solas impellers don't have the built in nut like stock impellers do. They supply this tool with the impeller. Counter clockwise install.

Finished look with tool removed. From here remove all old sealant from flange (black stuff in pic), and apply new sealant. I used 3m 5200 again


Now reinstall is reverse of disassemble. Edit.... It is very very helpful to have a second person when installing rear pump and shaft. Have them on swim deck with arm down clean out hole. They will grab shaft and turn it while your are pushing pump in. It's a bitch to line up by yourself. Super easy with someone turning shaft. DON'T OVER TIGHTEN BOLTS THEY WILL SNAP. It is a yamaha after all. Hopefully this all helped someone further down the road. 5200 takes 72 hours to fully cure. So I'll be water testing Saturday (4 days after install), and will update the results.....

 

[SamN44]

How did your water test go?

 

[VitaminSea]

Thanks for the write up/photos. How did the new prop work out for you?

Just wondering why 3M 5200? I was under the impression it was a “gasket maker” that was used on the pumps (RTV Silicone).

 

[Hoyt]

My bad. I updated my build thread, but not this one......

So boat is 100% fixed, and is actually better now then stock. Boat will cavitate, but for only 3 seconds then boom she's gone. We hit top speed of 48 very quickly after getting on plane. Here's a video of stop to plane......

Yamaha 195s solas impeller

youtube.com

As you can see she gets down and is ready to go. Definitely fixed my issue.

 

[Hoyt]

How did your water test go?

Thanks for the write up/photos. How did the new prop work out for you?

Sorry for delay. Just posted above

Just wondering why 3M 5200? I was under the impression it was a “gasket maker” that was used on the pumps (RTV Silicone).

It probably is, but I saw in a video awhile back, and here that people used 5200. Same thing, but way stronger for the most part

 

[Theriford]

Congrats and thanks for this post... great, or bad timing as I just sucked up some rocks and locked the impeller. Pics below of all the damage for everyone else's pleasure... I'm going to have to do an epoxy fill and sand. I had been meaning to pull everything apart and check it out before the damage... I got a 2019 SX190 as the third owner and it could never hit 35mph, so I always figured there was probably something not quite right.

Question for you, does your shaft spin very freely? Mine will turn under hand power, but I cannot spin it and have it free spin and am wondering if I should also pull it and replace the bearings.

 

[Hoyt]

Congrats and thanks for this post... great, or bad timing as I just sucked up some rocks and locked the impeller. Pics below of all the damage for everyone else's pleasure... I'm going to have to do an epoxy fill and sand. I had been meaning to pull everything apart and check it out before the damage... I got a 2019 SX190 as the third owner and it could never hit 35mph, so I always figured there was probably something not quite right.

Question for you, does your shaft spin very freely? Mine will turn under hand power, but I cannot spin it and have it free spin and am wondering if I should also pull it and replace the bearings.

Impeller definitely seen better days for sure. I'm not sure about my shaft spinning freely, but I'll check this weekend when I have the cover off

 

[BrandonG]

Hey @Hoyt. I am thinking I have the same issues as you. Last year when I had my 2019 AR195 loaded with people I could barely get the boat on plane and it took forever. It would just move at a slow speed and if you tried to accelerate more it would just cavitate and slow down, you really really had to nurse it on plane and wakeboarding was impossible.

Im thinking of changing out the impeller for the Solas and replacing the wear ring, your write up was very helpful for the impeller and I know you had the wear ring replaced at a PWC shop but was curious if you could provide insight on changing the ring, as in does the sleeve just slide out of the housing ect?

TIA!

 

[Theriford]

@BrandonG I am about to change the wear ring as well. It appears that it is just press fit in... someone posted the service manual page with indicated that there is a removal tool (~$250) which I am not planning on trying to purchase, assuming that I could even find one. I had read another post that they had someone pack the cavity with dry ice, presumably to shrink the ring to remove. I need to remove the impeller first to confirm, but I am planning to use ice and/or some compressed propellant and give it a try. If it works I will post. If that doesn't work, I will take the assembly to a local service center and see if they can remove for minimal time and cost.

Fingers crossed

 

[BrandonG]

@Theriford, thanks a million. Is you SX a 195 by chance? If so could you provide the part number for the ring you bought?
From the research ive done it appears the non SVHO boats use a 155mm pump and SVHO is a 160mm. And even then I'm not sure if all year 160MM rings are the same lol

 

[Hoyt]

Hey @Hoyt. I am thinking I have the same issues as you. Last year when I had my 2019 AR195 loaded with people I could barely get the boat on plane and it took forever. It would just move at a slow speed and if you tried to accelerate more it would just cavitate and slow down, you really really had to nurse it on plane and wakeboarding was impossible.

Im thinking of changing out the impeller for the Solas and replacing the wear ring, your write up was very helpful for the impeller and I know you had the wear ring replaced at a PWC shop but was curious if you could provide insight on changing the ring, as in does the sleeve just slide out of the housing ect?

TIA!

Yep. Sounds like you got same issue.

So for the wear ring what you do is Dry Ice. Go get some dry ice, and pack it inside the wear ring where the impeller was (take impeller off first). Let that cool the ring and then you can just pull it out with pliers. Reverse to reinstall new ring. My PWC guy said it literally took him 5 minutes that way.

 

[Hoyt]

@Theriford, thanks a million. Is you SX a 195 by chance? If so could you provide the part number for the ring you bought?
From the research ive done it appears the non SVHO boats use a 155mm pump and SVHO is a 160mm. And even then I'm not sure if all year 160MM rings are the same lol

You are correct. The 190 is 155mm. The supercharged 195 is 160mm. You'll need it for 2019+. Under 2019 is a housing/wear ring combo that's way easier to replace. 2019+ is just a ring

 

[RobbieO]

It probably is, but I saw in a video awhile back, and here that people used 5200. Same thing, but way stronger for the most part

If you look in your owners manual, it shows you what sealer to use. I couldn't find this in black, so I used white. This is what it showed in a 195 manual that some one shared with me. My 212SE manual was backordered at the time. I've read where some guys don't even use sealer, or use gasket maker. 5200 is recommended for thru hull fittings, or things you hopefully will never have to remove again.

https://www.amazon.com/Three-Bond-Engine-Silcone-Gasket/dp/B000GZR4QC

 

[Hoyt]

If you look in your owners manual, it shows you what sealer to use. I couldn't find this in black, so I used white. This is what it showed in a 195 manual that some one shared with me. My 212SE manual was backordered at the time. I've read where some guys don't even use sealer, or use gasket maker. 5200 is recommended for thru hull fittings, or things you hopefully will never have to remove again.

https://www.amazon.com/Three-Bond-Engine-Silcone-Gasket/dp/B000GZR4QC

Your probably correct. I've used 5200 on many boats, and haven't had a problem removing it. So I guess I'm just old school .

 

[Ozark]

@BrandonG I am about to change the wear ring as well. It appears that it is just press fit in... someone posted the service manual page with indicated that there is a removal tool (~$250) which I am not planning on trying to purchase, assuming that I could even find one. I had read another post that they had someone pack the cavity with dry ice, presumably to shrink the ring to remove. I need to remove the impeller first to confirm, but I am planning to use ice and/or some compressed propellant and give it a try. If it works I will post. If that doesn't work, I will take the assembly to a local service center and see if they can remove for minimal time and cost.

Fingers crossed

You can get it out using a couple vice grips, assuming that you aren’t planning to save the old one. It’s not hard at all to remove.

 

[BrandonG]

@Ozark, I will definitely try that, I got the Solas impeller, just waiting on the wear ring from Yamaha. I will post my results when I get everything changed out

 

[Theriford]

Well, I got the new wear ring and tried to remove the old with pliers and pulling and then tapping to no avail. I tried to shrink it using ice and salt for an hour to no avail... then spraying liquid air duster (propane) to no avail. And yes, I like the word avail. So, I ended up taking to the local Yamaha service center... 30 minutes and $130 later, they had the new one in.

Got it back together this weekend and hit 35mph finally with 1000lbs of passengers on the boat... so I am hopeful that this ends up being a blessing.

FYI - I have a SX190... put the OEM wear ring in and got a "Pro-5.0" impeller from Impellers.com. It took 8 days for them to ship, but arrived in under 2 days. They also had the spline nut to get the impeller off... which required a massive 6 foot long lever and 150 lbs to break free.

https://www.impellers.com/shop.html?store-page=PRO-Performance-JetBoat-Impeller-Yamaha-190-FSH-Deluxe-Sport-AR190-SX190-single-engine-p173797730

 

[BrandonG]

I tackled this job today and I could be the anomaly but changing the wear ring/impeller was incredibly easy. Could be due to the fact that I only boat in freshwater though. Figured I would add some thoughts/tips.

I did things slightly different than Hoyt, I took the lower ride plate/keel and removed the whole jet as an assembly from where it bolts to the transom. Once I got the bucket/linkages and everything out of the way I took the 4-14mm bolts out and the single 10mm bolt and used the hook end of a crowbar to break the silicone seal, It came off pretty easily. From there the jet assembly will slide out shaft and everything.

Looking back I don't know that its necessary to remove the 4 bolts and prying the nozzle off to gain access to the cone unless you're changing the cone to a Lucky13 or the like. But I took out the 4 14mm bolts and was able to break the silicone seal and pull the nozzle off pretty easily. From there I removed the 4x 5mm allen head screws and pulled the cone off. Inside is the impeller housing roller bearing and nut for the drive shaft. The roller bearing still had a decent amount of grease but I went ahead and lubed the bearing with some fresh grease and reinstalled the cone.

Now onto the fun part/replacing the impeller and wear ring;

So to get the impeller off I slid the box end of a 27mm combo wrench down the shaft and onto the impeller, then I used the spline tool to hold the shaft in the vice so I could loosen the impeller. The tool is mentioned above and yes you will want it. Its like 12$. The only other way would be to use the pipe holding part of the bench vice jaws to dig into the shaft and potentially hold it while chewing up the drive shaft. I gave the wrench a test pull to see if I could get it loose right out of the gate but it seemed very tight. I used a map gas torch (propane) to heat up the impeller a little bit and linked another wrench onto the open end of the wrench as shown here..

The impeller came free pretty easily at that point.

Now the part I was worried about, the wear ring.. I probably should not have been worried because that was the easiest part of the job I think. I grabbed the ring with a pair of vice grips. I held the vice grips over the table with one hand and started tapping the aluminum impeller housing with a small rubber mallet (do not use a metal hammer). After the first couple taps on alternating ears of the housing I could see it was working and the ring was coming out pretty easily. After just a few more taps the ring was out. I didnt use any special methods like freezing or dry ice. It turns out the wear ring is held in the housing by a could of large rubber O rings. I applied a little silicone grease to the O rings and exterior of the new wear ring and it slid right in easily. The wear ring has a key on it so It can only be installed one way.

With the new wear ring installed I slid the new Solas impeller onto the shaft and used their special tool to tighten it like shown in the pictures of the original post. After you get it tight you can slide off the tightening tool and slip the impeller cone onto the shaft. There are 3 very small set screws you use to tighten the cone down onto the shaft, they are 2mm allen key so make sure you have one because they do not include one with the kit.
Then once the impeller cone is on all you have to do is clean the old silicone off the mating surfaces. For this I used a thin wire cup brush and my drill, worked great. You dont want to use anything super abrasive here or you could make an uneven mating surface trying to get all the old silicone off.

While I had everything out of the way I did apply a thicker bead of silicone on a few places in the tunnel where is seemed thin. From there all you have to do is put the silicone on the mating surfaces and put it all back together in reverse order,

I am going to give the silicone 24 hours to fully cure before I take the boat out to test. My old wear ring and impeller didn't look bad at all I could definitely tell the clearance between the impeller and wear was quite a bit smaller with the solas impeller. Im confident thats why my boat was cavitating so much but I'll post results when I give it a few test rips

 

[BrandonG]

Got the boat out for the first test and the holeshot cavitation is definitely fixed. It feels very torquey now. Loaded up with 8 people, bimini coolers ect it would still get up to 35mph according to the dash speedo. which Im happy with considering I changed the impeller pitch

 

[kgower]

So as many of you already know I destroyed my stock yamaha 195s impeller and wear ring at the end of the year last season. I beached my boat in a Rocky/shelly beach. Killed my sound system batteries and started the boat. An hour later I came to shut it off, and heard the shells going through impeller. Bad call I know. So I'm starting this thread because of the general lack of knowledge I found on internet when I had this problem. So hopefully this helps someone else out in the future.....
So I was experiencing bad cavitation from a stop to getting on plane. Stock the boat took a couple seconds to get on plane. After problems... A minute or longer. I also had a "pinging" sound coming from the impeller area under load. The more people on board the worse it was. Top speed was dramatically decreased as well from stock 48-50 to now 35 with 2 people.
So I removed my impeller and jet pump from the boat(process described in pics after my story). Took it to my local PWC shop guru to fix. He replaced the wear ring with stock yamaha version, and had my impeller resurfaced at a local place (he was unable to order new at the time). So first test.... 2 people on board.... Cavitation was improved but still not stock, and we could hit 41mph. Fast forward to first family outing of the year..... 6 people on board (normal crew) and the boat would not get on plane. It would not go over 10mph. Clean out plug not set right? Nope.... Impeller for sure.......
So here starts the process of researching and rebuilding yet again......
So I started by finding the OEM Yamaha impeller part number for my 195s (same as sx195, and AR195 BTW) that number is (6GN-R1321-10-00). Good luck finding one BTW. So I then cross referenced it to Solas impeller, and found part number YV-CD 13/18 is the correct impeller for my not modified SVHO yamaha engine. Now this is a different pitch then stock. Stock is 13/20. Yamaha pitched it to have a little cavitation at start to add more top end speed. The 13/18 Solas is too eliminate cavitation, and by doing so you loose a couple mph on the top end. I'm perfectly fine with that....
So let's get to the removal....
This is what you see on back of your boat. I have Cobra jet fins installed here.... View attachment 178817
We are going after these 8 large bolts. They are 14mm socket....
View attachment 178818
First we pull off shifter rod from top of bucket. 10mm socket. One on each side. Pro tip.... Put bolts back in rod once removed so you know where they go. Rod just lifts up once bolts are removed
View attachment 178819
Like this. Just rest it on top.
View attachment 178820
Then we need to remove the steering rod. This is a 11mm socket, and wrench. Side note... If you have aftermarket fins you'll need to remove this side bolts of the fins to get steering rod bolt out. Again put all bolts back in to not lose them...
View attachment 178823
Fins are 14mm socket as well
View attachment 178824
Once the steering rod bolt is out be sure to not lose these two nylon washers in the hole. One on top and one on bottom...
View attachment 178825
Now we're ready to pull the pump. Take the outside 4 bolts out first. I did inside and it won't come out as whole. Must remove front pump section first. These are 14mm socket
View attachment 178827
This is your Pry point to unseal the 5200 on front pump to rear
View attachment 178828
One or both of these tools make separation of the pump super simple
View attachment 178829
Boom. Comes right apart
View attachment 178830
Once front pump is off your looking at this. Remove the 4 14mm socket bolts, and 1 10mm bolt (already done in this pic)
View attachment 178831
Removing the anode makes it way easier to access port side bolts. 10mm socket
View attachment 178832
There's your 2 14mm and one 10mm bolts that need to come out next. Pay attention to your intake grate. When you have pump off it's a good idea to open this, and clean and inspect. 100% of your engines cooling water comes through here
View attachment 178833
Extensions are key here to get these
View attachment 178834
Pry bar here again. Behind back pump and against transome. Pops right loose
View attachment 178835
From that point just grab the pump and pull it out. It'll come right out. Take it to your bench. Now the fun begins.... These are the needed tools to replace the stock impeller with a Solas upgrade it's their shaft holder....
View attachment 178836
Spline holder slides onto splines at end of shaft, and allow you to cinch it down on a vice. Definitely gonna need the vice. Without it is gonna be Hell
View attachment 178837
Here's your impeller, and this is what we are after. They are reverse threaded. So it comes off clockwise, and it's a real bitch. However, I got a trick for ya..... We used a 1 1/16" wrench for this (26 or 27mm would be better, but we didn't have it). A long 4'pipe to slide over the wrench for leverage would work amazing. We used a 5#sledge hammer instead and beat the wrench. Couple hits and boom she broke free no problem....
View attachment 178838
Here we are impeller is off. Once loose just twist it by hand off the threads. Then slide it off the spine end of shaft. Obviously it needs to come off vice first
View attachment 178839
Side by side of stock impeller (right) vs Solas impeller (right). Little shorter, and tighter pitch
View attachment 178840
Here you can see the Solas impeller installation tool. Solas impellers don't have the built in nut like stock impellers do. They supply this tool with the impeller. Counter clockwise install.
View attachment 178841
Finished look with tool removed. From here remove all old sealant from flange (black stuff in pic), and apply new sealant. I used 3m 5200 again
View attachment 178842

Now reinstall is reverse of disassemble. Edit.... It is very very helpful to have a second person when installing rear pump and shaft. Have them on swim deck with arm down clean out hole. They will grab shaft and turn it while your are pushing pump in. It's a bitch to line up by yourself. Super easy with someone turning shaft. DON'T OVER TIGHTEN BOLTS THEY WILL SNAP. It is a yamaha after all. Hopefully this all helped someone further down the road. 5200 takes 72 hours to fully cure. So I'll be water testing Saturday (4 days after install), and will update the results.....

Always informative.