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MFI Trailer Rebuild

Billtex2000

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This was the direct replacement for my actuator/slide:
Yup, that's ours!!
I'm hoping I can use the existing lines. I know my pads and calipers are shot. I think my rotors look OK, but if I'm doing the calipers should probably do them too. Was going to start with there, then the actuator if necessary.
 

suke

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Yup, that's ours!!
I'm hoping I can use the existing lines. I know my pads and calipers are shot. I think my rotors look OK, but if I'm doing the calipers should probably do them too. Was going to start with there, then the actuator if necessary.
You likely can. My brakes appeared to have been non operational for a really long time. The lines were almost solid rust inside. It was a pain in the ass to run new lines down the trailer.
 

Billtex2000

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I'm going to try bleeding them first to see if the lines are clogged or not. Did you use stainless steel replacement lines?
 

suke

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I'm going to try bleeding them first to see if the lines are clogged or not. Did you use stainless steel replacement lines?
Nope, used rubber lines. This isn't a super high pressure system. I've found the rubber has been good so far.

Believe this is the same kit that the OP used too. Man everything is cheaper now than when I bought my parts. Could have saved quite a bit of money had I waited until spring to fix my trailer. LOL!

 

Billtex2000

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Nice!! I'm sure I could get by with rubber.
 

JetBoatPenguin

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Descriptions were reversed on these two items at etrailer.com

I also was told by my local trailer guy we need the 25 1/4" springs versus the 26" springs . . . I believe the 26" springs would make the trailer ride higher. (I guess different sizes must work).

Hope this helps.

Part Number AP233 - 87.96 46.11 ea - Leaf Springs Full rebuild kit for bolts, shackles etc.
Part Number - SP-051275 - 26.50 31.67 ea - Full rebuild kit for bolts, shackles etc. Leaf Springs 26"
 

Tjw961

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Is the trailer for an AR230 that is listed here the same as a 2010 242 limited S one? I know im going to need to give some attention to mine this year so just curious about the part numbers and all. Thanks!
 

Bruce

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Is the trailer for an AR230 that is listed here the same as a 2010 242 limited S one? I know im going to need to give some attention to mine this year so just curious about the part numbers and all. Thanks!
i believe your trailer is a Shorelandr
 

BlkGS

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Is this still the way to go? My sx230 trailer has seen better days... Likely a long ti.me ago. One axle has been replaced, everything is rusted, and the brake hardware was removed. Based on all that, I am debating if it makes more sense to rebuild VS replace VS upgrade to electric brakes. If I'm going to go to the trouble of replacing springs, what about hearings? I don't seem to have buddy bearings, so if I plan to use it a lot that seems like a smart upgrade.

Basically, if my frame, wiring, and bunks are good and everything else isn't, is it worth rebuilding?
 

bronze_10

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Mine wasnt. I bought an aluminum I beam trailer with led lights, alloy wheels, torsion axles and brakes for 3 grand backnin 2016. Comparing my old mfi trailer to my new loadrite trailer was crazy. U can see how cheaply the mfi were built. And sold my old mfi trailer for 1400 bucks in the condition it was.... and with people coming outta the wood work I could have gotten much more for it.
 

06CCDMAX

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@Tjw961 if you are needing brake parts Rock Auto has all the 2000 Kia Sephia parts on clearance right now which was the correct parts for my 2009 MFI.
 

JetBoatPenguin

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Thanks for this thread...it helped as I changed out the leaf springs and associated hardware yesterday....

Not too bad of a job other than the 95 degree heat.

Make sure you try to use an impact wrench..which helps tremendously. Even better...borrow your friends. I had my son try to remove the rusted bolts with a normal wrench...watched him struggle a bit...and then brought out the breaker bar and impact wrench. It was a "use the right tools for the right job lesson". ;-)

Also advice to everyone...make sure to check the bolts on your bunks and elsewhere...like the spare tire holder. I found a couple of loose ones and a missing bolt. Could have been a bad situation...
 

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Tjw961

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Olive Branch, MS
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I did my hub bearing and seals this week on all 4, used all Timken parts.

Hubs
Timken SET4 includes L44649 bearing and race L44610
Timken SET17 includes L68149 bearing and race L68111
Timken seal 470460

Hub/rotor combo
Timken SET4 includes L44649 bearing and race L44610
Timken SET13 includes L68149 bearing and race L68110
Timken seal 470460

Rockauto had the best price for me and went together as it should. Just caught the rotors starting to let go on the seals before it made too huge of a mess and possibly damage. Thought this might help someone.
 

yamahaar230honewb

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Glad this thread is still helping people. Our Axle needs replaced, we sourced one locally. It came out to be 280, is quoted to take 5-7 days. We'll of course be replacing the hubs etc. Hopefully it goes as smooth as last time.
 

Tjw961

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Do you have the measurements on your axle by chance? It was late when I measured mine and I think I may have slide the tape measure or something because I can't seem to find an axle that matches.
 

yamahaar230honewb

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We actually removed it and took it to the place to get their own measurements. Once we get an invoice / spec sheet I'll post it here.
 

Chewiem16

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Holy cow this thread is great! The trailer I inherited Is falling apart. Anyone have the part numbers they used to replace the axles and springs? Going to have to rerun all the brake lines too :( Look at these pictures of what I’m dealing with:

not sure why they posted upside down? o_O
 

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