2011 mfi trailer caliper.

[mattschepker]

[USERGROUP=9]@HELP[/USERGROUP]. Does anybody have a part number for a 2011 mfi trailer I need the caliper or the automotive crossover part number? Hurry

 

[ar240owner]

Man I don't remember , I thought it was off a Kia or somthing ?

 

[Andy S]

I think they are 1997-2000 Kia Sephia brake pads.

 

[Bruce]

You might be able to take it to a trailer or RV shop and find something that would fit.

If I had a caliper failure I would temporarily disable the brakes then shop online for a set of replacements.

 

[GiddYupJoe]

Here ya go!

https://jetboaters.net/threads/found-this-on-the-other-site-about-mfi-trailer-brakes.5249/

 

[itsdgm]

My 2007 MFI trailer uses UFP DB35 brake calipers

 

[itsdgm]

http://www.pacifictrailers.com/ufp-disc-brake-calipers-pads-db35-db42/

 

[mattschepker]

Thanks everyone for you responses...... I went ahead and ordered the DB-35 zinc one from pacific trailers

 

[mattschepker]

@itsdgm have you ever bleed the breaks manually with a screwdriver? we try to push in and pull out with our hands then we hooked up the truck and did it that way. There's has to be a easier way. if any one else know please tell me

 

[itsdgm]

@itsdgm have you ever bleed the breaks manually with a screwdriver? we try to push in and pull out with our hands then we hooked up the truck and did it that way. There's has to be a easier way. if any one else know please tell me

I've never used a screwdriver, but I've read about guys who have. It's hard to explain, but I used a 2x4. It was secured with rope at the bottom, then I had a buddy push it towards the boat to collapse the tongue. Then we pulled the tongue back out and repeated and repeated and ...... It would've been easier if there was a way to secure the 2x4 maybe with a hole in the ground or a concrete parking block.

There's got to be a few YouTube videos that would have better methods.

 

[biglar155]

How about blocking the trailer wheels and push/pulling with a riding lawnmower (if you have a ball hitch)? You wouldn't want to put any weight on the mower but that wouldn't matter.

Just a thought...

 

[Bruce]

Thanks everyone for you responses...... I went ahead and ordered the DB-35 zinc one from pacific trailers

I would order two. It would be bad to have one brake stopping faster than the other.

 

[mattschepker]

I don't have a riding mower, but I did find some info on how to manually bleed the brakes on the old site but for some reason I cant copy and paste

 

[mattschepker]

I would order two. It would be bad to have one brake stopping faster than the other.

@Bruce, Long story short I bought the boat brand new May 2011 My 2nd or third trip out I had a blowout on the passenger side rear tire of the trailer. After a couple Buddy's @ar240owner @sstegh @jcyamaharider came over last weekend to help me figure out why my trailer brakes aren't working. we figured out that the blowout broke some of the brake lines and I didn't have breaks for five years basically. The brake pads on the driver's side and calipers are basically brand-new as well as the brake pads on the passenger side. We had to fix several different problems one of which is the caliper because it is seized up. I think the reason it's seized up because it's 5 years in and out of water with no brake lines hooked up as well probably clogged with debris as well

 

[mattschepker]

We even pulled out the actuator and found the piston to have a stripped bolt and it wasn't holding that in place. All I can say is thank God I have good friends because if I would have taken this to a shop it would probably be about a $1,200 brake job. I say that because once you replace the lines you bleed the system then you find something else is clogged you fix that put everything back and then something else is wrong.

 

[smthng]

@itsdgm have you ever bleed the breaks manually with a screwdriver? we try to push in and pull out with our hands then we hooked up the truck and did it that way. There's has to be a easier way. if any one else know please tell me

I used the screwdriver trick when I did mine... A big flathead screwdriver worked for mine better than anything else, including a vacuum bleeder. Put it in the hole with the handle angled back about 20 degrees, then pull it forward. You'll feel it hitting the pushrod on the cylinder. Yes, they could have made that a big bigger... the screwdriver can slide off the rod if you don't crank it straight. But otherwise, it works just like stepping on the brake pedal in a car. Get a helper to open the bleeder screw when you crank it and you're done in 5 minutes or so as long as your helper can pay attention and you can keep the reservoir full. If you're alone, it's still possible... Crank the screwdriver until it latches, open the bleeder, close the bleeder, release screwdriver, repeat. Or... invest in a set of speedbleeders. They make a stainless steel set that I've been meaning to call them about to see how salt resistant they really are.

 

[mattschepker]

Nothing better than calling pacific trailers to see where your email is to confirm your purchase over 2 day ago. They tell you, its been shipped and you we sent you a confirmation email. They resend the email and I am so happy its shipped. I go to track my shipment, there's a DELAY...and there's no delivery date set now. Now I am pissed. I just want this project done and to get my trailer off the jack stands so I can start installing Seadek. Its 80 degrees here today.

 

[itsdgm]

Nothing better than calling pacific trailers to see where your email is to confirm your purchase over 2 day ago. They tell you, its been shipped and you we sent you a confirmation email. They resend the email and I am so happy its shipped. I go to track my shipment, there's a DELAY...and there's no delivery date set now. Now I am pissed. I just want this project done and to get my trailer off the jack stands so I can start installing Seadek. Its 80 degrees here today.

That's a bummer. Sorry to hear that.

I read your earlier post about how the system has possibly been broken for a few years. My first reaction was that if there's been water in the system for that long, that you'll need to replace the entire system. I hope this isn't the case. But if water has been in there that long, it's more than likely that corrosion is throughout. Again, I hope I'm wrong, but be prepared with a lockout key just in case the calipers stick on you the first time out. If they do, you'll need to pry the brake pads with a screwdriver to release them and then use the lockout key to prevent the brake actuator from re applying them.

 

[mattschepker]

That's a bummer. Sorry to hear that.

I read your earlier post about how the system has possibly been broken for a few years. My first reaction was that if there's been water in the system for that long, that you'll need to replace the entire system. I hope this isn't the case. But if water has been in there that long, it's more than likely that corrosion is throughout. Again, I hope I'm wrong, but be prepared with a lockout key just in case the calipers stick on you the first time out. If they do, you'll need to pry the brake pads with a screwdriver to release them and then use the lockout key to prevent the brake actuator from re applying them.

We have replaced anything that has been broke or seized or clogged. We bleed the brakes several times in this process and the left side brakes work awesome that's when we figured out the right caliber was seized. Hopefully this is the last piece of the puzzle. We Have Been Thru the entire brake system.

 

[itsdgm]

We have replaced anything that has been broke or seized or clogged. We bleed the brakes several times in this process and the left side brakes work awesome that's when we figured out the right caliber was seized. Hopefully this is the last piece of the puzzle. We Have Been Thru the entire brake system.

Great. Hopefully that caliper will get there in time. I'm crossing my fingers for you.

PS. Maybe do a write up on the brake bleeding if you go with the screwdriver method. I'd love to study up on that.